In 2014, I took 30 days to walk the Via Podensis from Le Puy France (SE of Lyon), 750 km to St Jean Pied de Port, just before you cross the Pyrenees to enter Spain (April 1-30). I then started the Camino Frances from St Jean Pied de Port 850kms to Santiago (May 1–June 3). I highly recommend the Via Podiensis over all the others.
ST JAMES, one of the apostles of Christ (actually Jesus’s brother), proselytized in Spain for a few years after the crucifixion. With only seven conversions, he returned to the holy land in 44 AD and was promptly beheaded by Herod. Mysteriously, his body was placed on a stone boat without oars, sails, or crew, crossed the Mediterranean, came ashore on the northwest coast of Spain and was buried 20 km inland. It was rediscovered in 813, and St James (Santiago) was adopted as the patron saint of Spain by the king. During the Reconquista, the 700-year war against the Moslems, Santiago appeared in spirit form before many battles and became Santiago Matamoros, the Moor Slayer.
After the bishop of Le Puy made the first pilgrimage from Le Puy to Santiago in 961, and with the other two great pilgrimage sites, Jerusalem and Rome, not accessible, Santiago became the most important pilgrimage for people from all over Europe. Between 1000 and 1200, about 500,000 people walked to Santiago and then walked home again. As a brilliant piece of medieval marketing, it was, and still is, an important part of the economy of northern Spain. The pope declared Santiago de Compostela a holy city in 1189.
The trip declined in popularity until the 1970s and since then, its popularity has increased every year. Everybody who does the pilgrimage seems to write a book about their life-changing experience. Shirley McLean was one of the first. A movie, “The Way” brought it to many people’s attention. When St James’ birthday, July 25, falls on a Sunday, it becomes an anniversary year, and most churches hold special festivities. 2010 was an anniversary year but was not as busy as 2011. It appeared that people avoided 2010 as it was predicted to be too crowded. Spring and fall are the most popular seasons to miss the heat in northern Spain over the summer.
The Camino starts all over Europe – Italy, Hungary, Krakow and Gdansk in Poland, Denmark and the United Kingdom. These routes converge on 4 ways through France, 3 of which join north of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, before crossing the Pyrenees into Spain. From here runs the Camino Frances, one of the five main routes leading to Santiago from various parts of Spain and Portugal. It was the favourite route in ancient times and the way most do it today. Consider doing other routes to miss the masses. Some like the Camino Norte that follows the north coast of Spain or the way from Portos, Portugal. Occasionally we met people going in the other direction.
The Camino is travelled in every possible way. Some spend only a week finishing over several seasons, while a few walk or cycle from as far away as Wales, Holland, Germany and Switzerland. Some have done it multiple times and some spend a lifetime doing all the routes. Most have backpacks but there are a few carts and donkeys. Most walk but there were many more bicycles in Spain. The most common nationalities are Spaniards (over half), Italians, French, Germans, and Canadians (most from Quebec).
Everyone has their motivation for walking the Camino. Few seemed to be doing it for religious reasons. Most were aging baby boomers who liked to walk, wanted to experience France and Spain up close, and travel in a safe environment. The program for the day is set and one feels the need to walk every day. Meeting new people from all over the world is a major attraction. One of my goals was to lose weight and get in the best shape I have been in many years. Retired with nothing better to do, what better way to spend 2 months?
General Camino Advice
Feet. Having proper footwear and foot care is crucial on any long walk. Going 25kms/day is rigorous, add the weight of your pack, and you have a sure recipe for blisters. Read the post “Complete Guide to Prevention & Treatment of Blisters”.
Weight. Both your physical weight and the weight of your pack are important. The Camino Portugues was the start of 2 continuous years in Europe and I mailed a 16kg parcel to Leipzig Germany in preparation for that walk. Almost all the others walking the Camino de Portuguese seemed to be on a short 2-week vacation, are only doing this and have very light packs. <9kgs is recommended.
Cost. Walking the Camino is the cheapest holiday in Europe. Most gites (France) and aubergues (Portugal & Spain) cost 5-6€. Add the perigrino meal (5-7.5€) offered everywhere (except the Spanish part of the Camino de Portuguese), breakfast, lunch and spending money, and spend less the 25€/day – a price impossible to beat in Europe.
Aubergues. Each city has a municipally sponsored aubergue that charges 5-6€. The bunk beds have rubberized covers on the mattress and pillow, a few have blankets to cover the rubber and some offer a paper sheet and pillowcase. You must have your sleeping bag. I highly recommend a sleep sheet to keep the sleeping bag clean and a small backpacking pillow case stuffed with a down jacket or other clothes. None have towels and some rarely have washing machines and dryers. It is necessary to wash your clothes by hand and hope things dry by the morning. Showers are usually warm.
Wi-fi. All wi-fi in the municipal aubergues in Spain can only be accessed by a phone to receive an SMS with an access code. I do not travel with a phone so use restaurants to access wi-fi.
LE PUY, FRANCE to SANTIAGO April 1-June 4, 2011
In New Zealand, I met a man who started his Camino walk in Le Puy, France and highly recommended this as the most beautiful part of the many options available. Known as the Camino de Santiago in Spain and the Chemin de St Jacques in France, this is the most popular walk in the world with at least 250,000 doing it every year. Its popularity is growing by leaps and bounds. By walking the last 100 km to Santiago to get your Compostela, one can bypass purgatory entirely in anniversary years, or get half time off in other years.
I started in Le Puy en Velay, France, the original pilgrim route and the most popular route through France. Le Puy is easily reached by train from Paris via Lyon and St Etienne. With cobbled streets, a medieval church, a huge Virgin and baby Jesus statue perched on volcanic cones and a historical cathedral, it is a great place to spend at least one day.
After mass and a blessing of pilgrims in the cathedral, I started the 740 km walk across SW France to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. This part of the way in France is called the Via Podensis and is very hilly, crossing many river valleys. I averaged 24 km per day and walked that distance between April 1st and the 30th.
We had spectacular weather with many days up to 30 degrees, and virtually no rain at a time that is usually quite wet. It is a walk through the lovely, hilly French countryside – fields, valleys, pastures, vineyards, forest, small farms and villages built entirely of stone. The Aubrac, a treeless high plateau strewn with rock walls and pastures is one of the highlights.
Brimming with history, the hamlets have old churches, towers and tons of history. There were many castles, medieval walled towns, and villages like Conques with spectacular cathedrals and church museums.
The route in France follows the long-range hiking trail, the GR65, on a combination of pavement (mostly), gravel roads and trails. It is well way-marked with a white over red bar but beware that all the other long-range trails, which are occasionally crossed, have the same way marking. We took a wrong turn, didn’t realize it until we walked all day, and eventually took 4 days to return to the original Camino. But we took a much prettier alternative following the River Cele. This route also took us by Peche Merle, a spectacular cave with prehistoric cave paintings.
The entire tenor of the trip changed at St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the beginning of the Camino Frances. The town was packed with pilgrims, accommodation had to be booked a week ahead, and hundreds registered daily to get their credencial and have it stamped.
I was up early to begin the big climb over the Pyrenees into Spain and the major pilgrim town of Roncevalles. Taxis zoomed by carrying people to the top of the pass, but most walked. In great shape and 25 pounds lighter, I passed over a hundred people in the gorgeous 6-hour walk. Instead of the 30 or so other pilgrims we were used to in France, there were now hundreds.
To get the limited non-reservable dorm beds available in most towns, many start walking by 6 am and some aubergues (as they are called in Spain) would have as many as 150 packs lined up outside waiting for the early afternoon opening. Other accommodations include reservable dorm beds and double and triple rooms at all price ranges. Staying in dorms is part of the experience. After dealing with snorers all night, the rustling starts at 5:30 and the place is empty at 7. The 5-7 euro price for a dorm bed makes it an affordable holiday for just about anyone.
The Camino in Spain is much more developed and walker-friendly. It is also much easier due to the generally flat terrain. It is hard to get lost – follow the yellow arrows or scallop shells at every turn. Some of the highlights are Pamplona (running the bulls – I took my only rest days here), the church in Los Arcos, walking the flat meseta between Burgos and Astorga, the Burgos and Leon cathedrals, the mountains of Galicia and finally arriving at Santiago. Storks are on every chimney and bell tower. With Spain as the world leader in wind energy, wind farms line every ridge. On one windy day in 2009, over 50% of the country’s power was wind-generated.
Leon Arishenkoff and Mark Hatlen, friends from Castlegar, joined me in Saghun with 378 km left to walk. If one has time at the end, a worthwhile extension is to rent a car and see as much of Spain as possible. Mark and I rented the smallest economy car for 277 euros for 21 days and drove 6300 km seeing all the highlights of Spain, southern Portugal and Andorra.
A credencial was purchased at the Le Puy cathedral and was large enough to record my entire trip – you get it stamped each night at your accommodation.
The only crucial guidebook for the trip is the French Miam Miam Dodo. There are two books – one for the Le Puy to St-Jean portion and the second for the St-Jean to Finisterre section. They are published yearly so are accurate and up-to-date. Along with a schematic map, they give all the accommodation, services, and eating possibilities on the entire route making reservations easy.
A useful addition would be a book that lists all the relevant history you are walking through. I liked the 2 volumes “The Way of St James” by Wilfrid Alexandre for France and “Walking the Camino de Santiago from Pili Pala Press for Spain. Maps are not necessary. Avoid books (like the two from Cicero Press) that give specific route instructions as these aren’t needed with all the good waymarks.
It was necessary to book accommodation every night and thus a phone and good language skills are necessary. I walked with a small group the entire way in France but booking may not have been necessary if I had been walking alone. Unlike Spain, all accommodation can be reserved, leaving it difficult for pilgrims especially over Easter and some weekends, when the French would come from all over the country for a few days of walking.
Carrying the absolute minimum weight is important. A few younger people camp. In France, dorm beds are available in gites, the cheapest accommodation. In Spain, pilgrim accommodations are in aubergues. Ideally, you should have about 8-9 kgs in a 40-50 litre backpack. A light sleeping bag is a necessity. One only needs walking clothes and by washing every night (which many pilgrims do), one can get by with a minimum of everything. I mailed home extra clothes (including my rain jacket opting for an umbrella and light windbreaker). The loss of 2 kgs was very appreciated. One option available everywhere was bag transfers to your next accommodation. Several tour companies even provide guided walks (this seems like a very non-authentic way to do it).
Food can be interesting especially in Spain with their eating times. Purchased breakfast is white bread, butter, jam and coffee +/- juice. In Spain, food was hard to find before 10 so this meal is best dealt with by yourself. Lunch was usually some bread, meat, tomato and cheese bought daily. Dinner was most often the menu of the day – a first course of salad, soup, vegetable or pasta, second course of pork, chicken or fish usually with French fries, dessert, wine and bread for 9-11 euros, a good value. Some cook most of their meals often sharing with other pilgrims.
Foot and ankle problems are common. Walking so many kilometres carrying weight is a great recipe for blisters. I escaped virtually unscathed by wearing light well broken-in low hikers with a large toe box, double socks, prophylactic duct tape, and good feet. I did no training, and it took 10 days for the walking to come easily. Most people feel the Camino is a life-altering experience. Walking almost 1600 km seemed daunting, but the miles go by surprisingly fast. It is an experience that will become the trip of a lifetime.
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CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
Pilgrims have been tracing trails to the Spanish city of Santiago de Compostela for centuries. Modern travellers can follow the tradition in search of their own personal fulfilment.
To begin at the end: the remains of the apostle Saint James (or Sant Iago, in Spanish) are believed to repose in an urn, in a tomb, in a crypt, in the looming medieval cathedral of the city named after him. Santiago de Compostela was built around the saint’s burial site, as revealed to a shepherd by a guiding star almost a millennium after the body was carried here by stone boat from Jerusalem, with angels guiding the way. Or so the story goes. It has since led more than 1,000 years’ worth of pilgrims to this convergence point of myth and history, via the network of cross-country trails known as the Camino de Santiago. In 2022, a record 438,000 people completed one of those routes, some of them covering only the final 62 miles (or 124 miles for cyclists) required to qualify for the official pilgrim certificate, the Compostela. It’s a measure of how popular the pilgrimage has become, drawing not just the Catholic faithful but recreational trekkers, mountain bikers, group tours and solo travellers, coming to work off their worries — or a few extra pounds — in the wilds of the Iberian peninsula.
There are seven main caminos (ways) and while they all end in Santiago de Compostela, they’re not all confined to Spain. The French Way, from the foothills of the Pyrenees, has some of the best infrastructure and is by far the busiest. Lesser-travelled alternatives, meanwhile, trace the Portuguese coast, the Cantabrian Mountains and the inland plains of Castile and León. Each route offers its own distinct pleasures in terms of climate, landscape, physical challenges and regional cultures. But there are recurring features, with all paths marked by holy ruins, shrines, monasteries and albergues (simple hostels that have served the routes since the Middle Ages). There’s always camaraderie among the wayfarers. A bottle of water or wine shared with strangers in the ruins of a hilltop hospital built for early pilgrims might be the defining moment of your trip. There’s also solitude, if that’s what you want, and the profound satisfaction of moving through all this natural beauty under your own steam. If you don’t find God, or even yourself, on the way, there is at least the promise of deep peace and quiet.
THE COASTAL PORTUGUESE WAY
The classic Portuguese Way from Porto is a largely inland option, but there’s also a 170-mile coastal alternative that skirts the Atlantic coastline through northern Portugal and Galicia — the edge of the known world in Roman times.
Days 1-3 With its Romanesque facade and ethereal blue azulejo tiling, Porto Cathedral makes for an eye-catching starting point. Divert to Matosinhos and follow the ocean along wooden walkways through landscapes of dunes, flowers and market gardens. Browse for lace in the old naval town of Vila do Conde, sample cod in 18th-century fishing port Póvoa de Varzim and watch kitesurfers off the protected shores of Esposende, en route towards Marinhas in far northern Portugal.
Days 4-7 This stretch turns from the sea to follow the Neiva River inland on a long, stone pathway. A magnificent iron bridge by Gustav Eiffel takes travellers over the Lima River into Viana do Castelo, where a funicular ascends to the Templo do Sagrado Coração de Jesus (‘Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus’), reminiscent of Paris’s Sacré Coeur. The path winds upward into eucalyptus forest, then back down to the ocean, passing coastal bastions and windmills to reach yet another river, the Minho, where a ferry crosses into Spain. On the far bank is A Guarda, famous for its lobster and for its ruins of an ancient Celtic shrine. Finish on the coast in Mougás.
Days 8-11 Further up the coast is the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia, once defended from attacking Turkish ships by Cistercian monks handy with cannons. The route here is nicknamed the Monastic Way in their honour. It weaves across to Baiona, the port that received first word of the New World from the returning ship La Pinta in 1493. Soak up the sea views, across floating mussel farms and the misty Cíes Islands in the Vigo estuary, before turning inland to join the classic Portuguese Way. Stop for oysters in the village of Arcade, then cross Ponte Sampaio bridge to the former Roman road that leads to Pontevedra.
Days 12-14 Pontevedra’s historic centre is worth exploring before the last push. Wander the gothic basilica of Santa María la Mayor and the Santo Domingo convent ruins before crossing bucolic Galician farmlands toward Caldas. Soak tired bones in thermal springs and refuel with a lamprey-filled empanada, then carry on to Padrón, the river port where the disciples are said to have first brought the body of Saint James. The end of this route follows the footsteps of Bishop Teodomiro, who found those remains some 900 years later and brought them to the resting place now known as Santiago de Compostela.
THE ORIGINAL WAY
This 200-mile trail is said to be the oldest of the Camino de Santiago routes, the first pilgrimage having been taken by Asturian King Alfonso II around 820 CE. It’s also the toughest way to go, but pilgrims are rewarded with glorious mountain views and hearty food.
Days 1-3 King Alfonso II commissioned Oviedo’s basilica, on the site of which now stands the Cathedral of San Salvador, marking the start of this route. From there, it’s into the hills, fortifying yourself with regional stews. Look across the valleys from the Nuestra Señora del Fresno (‘Our Lady of Fresno’) Sanctuary and rest beneath the fortified walls of Salas, the riverside ‘gateway to the west’ of Asturias. The path proceeds to Tineo through chestnut forest, passing vintage hórreos (stilted grain stores) and the ruins of a pilgrim hospital.
Days 4-7 Continue via Pola de Allande, where locals still speak Eonaviego (old Galician-Asturian). Stop to behold the 14th-century hilltop Palace of Cienfuegos de Peñalba, and try local Oscos cheese in Puerto del Palo. Then it’s down again to the Salime Reservoir and across to Grandas de Salime, the last stop in Asturias.
Days 8-11 Head onwards across Galicia on paths that are often monkishly hushed. A quiet trail through ancient oak groves leads to Castroverde’s 14th-century, 65ft-tall tower. Then Lugo rises like a vision, the evening sun glowing on Roman walls that encircle a town known for its good food and wine.
Days 12-14 Dirt roads flanked by chestnut trees pass by late-Roman ruins, including those of the temple of Santa Eulalia de Bóveda. Galician seafood is reliably terrific even this far inland, with octopus grilled to perfection in villages like Melide. Pilgrims connecting from the Northern and French Ways make the last stretch much busier, and groups pause, wonderstruck, at the oak-fringed hermitage of San Pedro and the monument atop Monte do Gozo. From there, you’ll see the spires of your final destination at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral — a sight that moves some to tears of religious humility or sheer, exhausted relief.
THE SANABRES WAY
While the Vía de la Plata is the best-known Camino de Santiago route from Andalucia (transposed over historic trails for traders and herders), the 220-mile Sanabres Way makes an appealing alternative. It’s quieter, a bit flatter and easier to do by bike, forming a chain of enigmatic monasteries through plains and forests and over high, remote passes.
Day 1-3 The Cistercian order built its first Iberian abbey just outside Granja de Moreruela in the 12th century. Today, the monastery’s ruins set the tone for this initial stretch of dirt roads and river crossings. You’ll find wineries dug out of clay amid the chestnut groves around Tábara, and of the two possible routes from Bercianos de Valverde towards Mombuey, the thyme-scented way through Villanueva de las Peras is more pleasant. Cyclists should also take the service road via the reservoir of Our Lady of Agavanzal, instead of the rougher trail, to the shrine of the same name, where a Napoleonic-era musket bullet was recently found embedded in an altarpiece.
Day 4-7 From Mombuey, another long phase alternates between deep woodlands, isolated meadows and busy national roads. Stop by the Iglesia de la Asuncion (‘Church of the Assumption’), with its looming belltower built by the Knights Templar in the 13th century, and rest in the shade of ancient oak and yew trees outside Requejo before climbing up and over the A Canda mountain pass, leaving Castile and León in the process. After a first taste of Galician-style grilled meat and seafood across the regional border in A Gudiña, cyclists usually proceed via Verín while hikers tend to take the shorter trail through remote mountain villages, descending steadily toward Laza.
Day 8-11 The path through unpopulated countryside leads you upward again, over the mountains of Requeixada and Talariño (the latter topped with a wooden cross). Then it’s slowly back down on dirt and asphalt surfaces to recuperate in the medicinal hot springs of Ourense, a storybook-pretty Roman town with a landmark bridge over the Miño River. Another hard climb out of this valley is made easier by the promise of an overnight in Cea, a village famed for its signature bread baked in special wood-burning granite ovens.
Day 12-14 Food again becomes the motivator on the journey through the pastoral idyll of the Deza valley, with the promise of cocido (chickpea stew with pork shoulder and chorizo) awaiting you in the town of Lalín. Fuel up before tackling the long, onwards section through pines and eucalyptus. It links to an ancient Roman road that makes the most beautiful of all final approaches to the tomb of Saint James. Expend the last of your energy on climbing the peculiar pyramidal mountain Pico Sacro. It was here, legend has it, the disciples Atanasio and Teodoro defeated a dragon with a simple sign of the cross before continuing on to bury the body of the apostle.
HOW TO TRAVEL: A PRACTICAL GUIDE
How fit do I need to be? Some routes are harder than others, but a 14-day pilgrimage requires some conditioning. A few months before setting off, start taking incrementally longer walks (up to 15 miles per day), ideally with an ever-heavier backpack if you plan to carry your own bags.
Do I have to carry my own luggage? Only if you want to. There’s no shame in booking luggage transfers via Spain’s state-owned postal service, Correos, or private providers like Pilbeo, which pick up and drop off bags for around €5-10 (£4-8) per stage of the route, leaving you to carry only a day pack. The first pilgrim, King Alfonso II, probably didn’t haul his own gear around either.
What essentials should I pack? Waterproofs, sunscreen, a sun hat, a water bottle, a first-aid kit and comfy footwear are essential. For albergues (simple Camino hostels), pack a sleeping bag, a headlamp, earplugs, an eye mask and bed bug spray. Also bring plasters and merino wool socks.
Where will I sleep? Most public albergues are run by the local municipality and charge less than €10 (£8) a night for a dorm bed, but they don’t take reservations. In busy season, consider booking into private albergues or guesthouses along the way.
Is walking the only way? No. Cycling is a popular option, but only serious mountain bikers should try the Original Way. Horse-riding is doable, and fittingly old-fashioned, but takes experience and planning, so an organised tour is easiest. The Sail The Way initiative has also opened up the possibility of travelling between stages by yacht along the coast.
How does the accreditation system work?
The Credencial (pilgrim passport) is a document that confirms your pilgrimage. Order one from the UK’s Confraternity of St James, or download the app version, then collect physical or virtual stamps at albergues and other marked locations along the way. Present on arrival at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral to collect your Compostela. To qualify, you need only show you walked the final 62 miles (or cycled the final 124 miles) of any of the Camino routes.
