United Kingdom – Channel Islands – Jersey Sept 15-16, 2021
I took the ferry from St Malo France to Jersey on Sept 15 arriving in St Helier – 38E. Jersey is treating covid differently than the rest of the UK as most ferries arrive from France. A 72-hour covid test is not necessary if vaccinated (they accepted my BC paper vaccination card with no problem), but must register, show you QR code and have a free covid PCR on arrival at the terminal.
I left my van at the ferry terminal (parking 10E/day) as taking a vehicle was prohibitively expensive at 176E. I planned on renting a scooter (but there are no scooter rentals on Jersey for 2021) and wild camping although that is illegal, but accommodation is also ridiculously expensive.
The ferry has an unusual route – it bypasses Jersey to land in Guernsey first, all Jersey passengers had to disembark and passes through some odd lines, then goes the 1 ¼ hour trip back to Jersey. We arrived at noon.
I was unable to book the ferry to Guernsey online (email already registered with no ability I could find to reset my password), so stopped at the Condor desk to buy a ticket. Amazingly, the only ferry to Guernsey for a week left at 2pm in 2 hours. So I visited the Jersey Museum, Maritime Museum and walked around downtown St Hilier.
ST HELIER
Jersey Museum and Art Gallery. Watch the film The Jersey Story first and then see the large museum with a little bit of everything including a full furnished house. 9.55 P reduced.
Maritime Museum. Tells a good history of Jersey and the sea. Jersey fisherman fished off the Grand Banks of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. 8.5
Elizabeth Castle. Situated on a tidal island off St. Aubin’s Bay is 16th century, accessible by foot when the tide is out
I was told to return by 1:20, arrived a few minutes late and the gate was closed. Two young people were also stranded. Even though the boat was only 2 minutes walk away and wouldn’t leave for almost 40 minutes, we were refused boarding. The woman was hysterical, but no matter our arguing, those were the rules.
I asked for a refund but they had a rule it could not be refunded to the credit card I had used 2-hours earlier but had to be a bank transfer using my IBAN number. One of the clerks said some silly stuff about having to be at airport gates and having to be 40 minutes earlier.
I sat down and booked a flight to Guernsey for the next afternoon. The fellow asked if I had booked my flight and I mouthed f**k off. I was then refused the refund.
Jersey has no scooter rentals. All the rental agencies had no cars. So I decided to bus around the island making camping easier. I took the #22 bust as far as Le Braye Cafe, had fish and chips and camped above the huge beach by the restaurant.
After a nice night wild camping, I was up early and saw the Nature Reserve and National Park and museum.
Les Mielles Nature Reserve. A circular walk from La Mare au Seigneur through La Mielle de Morville nature reserve to Les Monts Grantez. A walk offers a gentle tour through wooded valleys with spectacular views of St Ouen’s Bay.
Jersey NP. The Jersey National Park is home to 30 miles unspoilt beaches, bays, cliff paths and headlands.
Channel Islands Military Museum, St Ouen. Housed in a real German bunker, it is an imposing round edifice sitting on the cliff face.
I then got the bus and was let off 1.9kms walk from the WWII tunnels. I stuck my thumb out as the road had no sidewalk and to see if someone would pick up and I was getting aride for half of it.
WWII Tunnels. During World War II, the Crown left Jersey defenceless and the Island became occupied by German forces. Jersey War Tunnels are a product of five long years of occupation; they bore witness to the particular cruelty of the Nazi regime. With little physical resistance to deal with, it wasn’t long before the German command began interfering in daily life, its main weapon being a formidable bureaucracy, generating new laws and orders on a daily basis.
Over 1000 metres of tunnels were dug over 50 metres deep into the hillside by 5,000 forced and slave workers from nations across Europe. They now contain an underground collection of exhibits that tell the fascinating story of Jersey’s occupation from resistance,€ through to starvation, then eventual liberation.This vast network of underground tunnels was designed to allow the German occupying infantry to withstand Allied air raids and bombardment in the event of an invasion. In 1943, it was converted into an emergency hospital. Far in excess of their military significance, the Channel Islands used up one twelfth of the reinforced concrete of the entire Atlantic wall. Had the Nazis deployed these resources more reasonably, they could have doubled the strength of the Atlantic wall and had a profound effect on the Allied advance.
After D-Day, the Channel Islands were cut off from all supply routes through France. The last year of the occupation was characterised by hunger and desperation. 9 May 1945, after five years of occupation, British forces arrived to free the Channel Islands, which is still marked by a public holiday and celebrations today. 15º£, 13 reduced
In the NM The Dark Side series.
I then walked 5kms to the airport, got a ride for half and sat around the airport until my flight to Guernsey (Blue Island Air, 74£, 10 minutes). From the circumstances, I wish I had missed my flight.
The Bailiwick of Jersey is a self-governing British crown dependency and is not administered by the United Kingdom. The Channel Islands are the last remnants of the Dukedom of Normandy and are considered a separate jurisdiction to the United Kingdom. It is only about 25km west of the Normandy peninsula.
Capital: St Hilier. About 30% of population concentrated in Saint Helier.
Currency: Jersey Pound
Area: 118 sq km
Population: 99,000
Country code: +44-1534
Electricity: (UK plug)
Understand. High earnings, zero inheritance tax rates and a mild climate make the island a popular offshore finance centre. Tourism, financial services and agriculture, particularly dairying, are the mainstays of the economy.
History. The Channel Islands represent the last remnants of the medieval Dukedom of Normandy. Were the only part of British territory occupied by German troops during WWII
Geography. Temperate mild winters and cool summers. Gently rolling plain with low, rugged hills along the north coast.
Get in. By plane. Jersey Airport (JER) have Easyjet and British Airways from London Gatwick, Luton and Southend) and other airports of Great Britain.
By boat. Condor Ferries connect to both Jersey and Guernsey Island and destinations in England and France. But trips limited to 2, France to Jersey, 2 days/week between the two islands and 2 days/week Guernsey to France.
Warning. You must check in 40 minutes before departure or you will not be allowed to board, no matter what.
Get around.
By car. 350 linear miles (563 km) of paved road, many narrow and twist. Drive on the left-hand side. The maximum speed limit across the entire island is 40 mph/64 km/h.
By bus. Liberty bus operates the extensive public bus network with fares £2.30 (cash) or £2 for contactless, no free transfers. Day ticket £8 purchased from the bus driver. All routes originate at Liberty Bus Station in St Helier.
By taxi. Fares of Controlled taxis (white plates) as much as 30% cheaper than Private Hire companies (yellow plates). “Jersey Lifts” are unlicensed with prices negotiated.
Talk. English predominant and French is not widely spoken
Buy. The economy is based largely on international financial services (60%), agriculture, and tourism (24%). All raw material and energy are imported
Sleep. Jersey.com. All very expensive with no hostels.
Respect. Some refer to themselves as British, some Norman, or some even French and use ‘Jerseymen’ and ‘Jerseywomen’ are very pro-Europe and describe themselves as being more a part of Europe than Great Britain.
Get out. itravel website for a combined listing of all offerings.