INDIA – NORTH EAST STATES – General

ARUNACHAL PRADESH (Itanagar)
Arunachal Pradesh is one of the eight north eastern states of India. Itanagar is the capital of the state.
Permits. Foreign tourists require a Restricted Area Permit which CANNOT be acquired at AP House in Guwahati. It can be acquired in New Delhi or Kolkata. In Guwahati travel agents can arrange this permit for private groups of 2 or more people. Rhino Travels charges $75 per person to do so. (Current as of May 2014)
Restricted Area Permits will be required to be presented at official checkpoints and at every hotel/lodge. You will be required to leave a physical copy of the permit with each official so be sure to take plenty of copies with you.
RAP can be obtained from Naharlagun railway station on arrival by train. Charges for domestic tourist is 400 INR and for foreigners its 3200 INR.
Talk. People of Arunachal Pradesh understand Hindi and English. There are more than 306 sub-tribes and more than 36 major tribes and most communicate in Hindi.
Get In. The nearest airports are Guwahati and Dibrugarh, if you are traveling to the western part of Arunachal. Arunachal State Transport runs buses daily at 6-7am from Guwahati to Bomdila and Itanagar.
Get Around. Sumo taxi that carry 10 and leave each morning around 5.30 am. Roads are limited so often necessary to return to Itanagar instead of going town to town.
Buy. Woven Goods, Cane and Bamboo work, Carpet Making (specialty of the Monpas. with unique dragon, geometric and floral designs), Wood Carving, Ornaments
Eat. Tibetan delicacies like Thukpa,
Monpa cuisine use a generous amount of chilies and fermented cheese which has a strong flavor and is not for the faint-hearted.
Momo is made by stuffing minced pork and onions into a dough and then steamed in a three layer steamer, or fried. simple and delicious
Thukpa is a soup filled with noodles, minced meat and vegetables, also known as Der Thuk. Ashum Thukpa is made of Maize, beans and meat.
Zan is the staple dish of the Monpa tribes. It is usually made of millet flour. It is usually served with vegetables or meat to which is added fermented cheese, soy beans or other herbs.
Khura is a pancake, had with tea.
Gyapa Khazi is a kind of Pulao made of rice, fermented cheese, small dried fish or shrimp, chilies, ginger and other spices.
Drink. Don’t miss Apong (a rice beer)
Stay Safe. Arunachal Pradesh is the safest state in north east India. The people of Arunachal Pradesh are not very religious and stay away from any kind of vices.

NOMAD MANIA Arunachal Pradesh (Itanagar)
M@P: 
Vijaynagar Telshil (Arunachal Pradesh extreme southeast)
Tentative WHS
Apatani Cultural Landscape (15/04/2014)
Namdapha National Park (15/03/2006)
Thembang Fortified Village (15/04/2014)
XL: Arunachal Pradesh extreme east (Tezu)
Museums: Itanagar: Jawaharlal Nehru State Museum
World of Nature
Mouling NP
Namdapha NP
Pakke Tiger Reserve
Sonai Rupai Wildlife Sanctuary
Rivers
Brahmaputra River
Lohit/Zayü River
Waterfalls: Jung falls (Nuranang falls)
Pedestrian Bridges: West Siang: Komsing Hanging Bridge
Indigenous Peoples:
Apatanis
Mishmis
Monpas
Nyshis
Singphos

Villages and Small Towns
KOMSING & TRIBAL VILLAGES
ZIRO
Festivals: Ziro Valley, Arunachal Pradesh

TAWANG* 
Religious Temples: Tawang Monastery.
Monuments: Tawang War Memorial

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NAGALAND (Kohima, Dimapur, Mon, Wokha) (pop 1,980,602 2011)
Nagaland became the 16th state of India in 1963. The state has experienced insurgency, as well as an inter-ethnic conflict, since the 1950s. The violence and insecurity have limited Nagaland’s economic development. Agriculture is the most important economic activity, covering over 70% of the state’s economy. Other significant economic activities include forestry, tourism, insurance, real estate, and miscellaneous cottage industries.
Most are Christian, one of the three Christian-majority states in India with a very high church attendance rate in both urban and rural areas. Huge churches dominate the skylines of Wokha, Kohima, Dimapur, and Mokokchung. Nagaland is known as “the only predominantly Baptist state in the world”.

Permits. Foreign nationals no longer need a Restricted Area Permit. If flying in, you should register with police at the airport, but even this is not strictly required.
Kohima, the state capital, houses the largest crucifix in India.
Get In. Fly into Dimapur or take the fast train from Guwahati which leaves daily at 0630; connect to a share taxi in front of the Dimapur railway station (Rs 230) and reach Kohima by lunchtime. Direct buses also run daily between Guwahati and Kohima.
Buy. Basketry, Woven crafts, woodcraft, pottery, metal work, jewelry and beadwork.
Eat. A typical Naga table consists of a meat dish, a boiled vegetable dish or two, rice and a chutney (Tathu). “fermented bamboo shoot” with fish and pork. axone (soyabean boiled, fermented and either smoked or sun dried) with smoked pork and beef. Smoked meat is produced by keeping the meat above the fire or hanging on the wall of the kitchen for 2 weeks or longer, which could last for the whole year ahead. Anishiis fermented yam leaves made into patties and smoked over the fire or sun dried . Naga food tends to be spicy (chillies).
Drink. Consumption of alcohol is prohibited in the state.

NOMAD MANIA India – Nagaland (Kohima, Dimapur, Mon, Wokha)
Borders: India-Myanmar
Villages and Small Towns
Nagaland-Mon: Longwa Village
Khonoma Eco Village
Naga Heritage Village
Airports: Dimapur (DMU)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express
Museums: Kohima: Nagaland State Museum
World of Nature: Ntangki NP
Festivals: Hornbill, Kohima
Caves: Nagaland-Mokokchung: Langpangkong Caves
Indigenous Peoples
Angamis
Aos
Khasis
Konyaks

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MANIPUR (Imphal, Senapati, Ukhrul, Chandel, Tamenglong)

Manipur. (pop 3 million) Imphal as its capital. It is bounded by Nagaland to the north, Mizoram to the south, Assam to the west and Myanmar to the east and south. The state covers an area of 22,327 square kilometres (8,621 sq mi). The Meitei are the majority group in the state, the Meitei Pangals (Manipuri Muslims), Naga tribes, Kuki/Zo tribes and other communities speak a variety of Sino-Tibetan languages. Manipur has been at the crossroads of Asian economic and cultural exchange for more than 2,500 years. It has long connected the Indian subcontinent and Central Asia to Southeast Asia, China (or East Asia), Siberia (Russia), Micronesia and Polynesia, enabling migration of people, cultures and religions.
In the British Indian Empire, the Kingdom of Manipur was one of the princely states. Between 1917 and 1939, some people of Manipur pressed the princely rulers for democracy. By the late 1930s, the princely state of Manipur negotiated with the British administration its preference to continue to be part of the Indian Empire, rather than part of Burma, which was being separated from India. These negotiations were cut short with the outbreak of World War II in 1939. On 11 August 1947 it joined India. This merger was later disputed by groups in Manipur, as having been completed without consensus and under duress. The dispute and differing visions for the future has resulted in a 50-year insurgency in the state for independence from India, as well as in repeated episodes of violence among ethnic groups in the state. From 2009 through 2018, the conflict was responsible for the violent deaths of over 1000 people.
The Meitei ethnic group represents around 53% of the population of Manipur state, followed by various Naga tribes at 24% and various Kuki-Zo tribes at 16%. The main language of the state is Meiteilon (also known as Manipuri). Tribals constitutes about 41% of the state population and are distinguished by dialects and cultures that are often village-based. Manipur’s ethnic groups practice a variety of religions. According to 2011 census, Hinduism is the major religion in the state, closely followed by Christianity. Manipur has primarily an agrarian economy, with significant hydroelectric power generation potential. It is connected to other areas by daily flights through Imphal airport, the second largest in northeastern India. Manipur is home to many sports and the origin of Manipuri dance, and is credited with introducing polo to Europeans.
Permit. There is no permit required for foreigners coming to Manipur, they only need to register themselves in the established check points i.e. Imphal Airport and (Mao and Jiribam) for those coming by road.

Keibul Lamjao National Park. Tentative WHS (11/03/2016). 40 km2 in area and the only floating park in the world, it is an integral part of Loktak Lake. It was created in 1966 as a wildlife sanctuary to preserve the natural habitat of the endangered Eld’s deer
The park is a swamp with floating mass of vegetation created by accrual of organic garbage and biomass with soil particles that has been thickened into a solid form called phumdis, at the south–eastern side of the Loktak Lake, which has been declared a Ramsar site. Two thirds to three fourths of the total park area is formed by phumdis. A waterway through the park provides year-round access by boats plying through the Loktak Lake, to the Pabot Hill in the north. The swamp encompasses three hills, namely, Pabot, Toya and Chingjao that provide a refuge for the large mammals during the monsoon season. The distinctive nature of the park is that it is “too deep to be marsh, too shallow to be a lake”. The monsoon drips 46.6 in with July and August as the wettest months and February and March as the driest.
The park is 53 km (32.9 mi) from Imphal and 522 km (324.4 mi) from Guwahati. Basic accommodation of a forest rest house without boarding facilities is available at Phubala and Sendra islands inside the park and at Moirang town 10 km (6.2 mi) away from the park. Staying at Imphal which has better hotel facilities is a preferred option.
A boat trip along the labyrinthine boat routes passing through colourful water plants is a good way to see the park. An adventurous trip would be to take a walk through the park but the phumdi is not a firm ground.

NOMAD MANIA India – Manipur (Imphal, Senapati, Ukhrul, Chandel, Tamenglong)
Tentative WHS: Keibul Lamjao Conservation Area (11/03/2016)
Borders: India-Myanmar
World of Nature
Keibul Lamjao NP
Lokchao Wildlife Reserve
Shirui NP
Lakes: Loktak Lake
Waterfalls: Imphal West: Sadu Chiru waterfalls
Caves: Khangkhui Khullen Mangsor Cave
Indigenous Peoples: Tangkhul Naga

IMPHAL*
Airports: Imphal (IMF)
Museums: Manipur State Museum
Markets: Khwairamband Bazar
Monuments: Shaheed Minar

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MIZORAM (Aizawl, Kolasib, Mamit, Saiha, Champai) (pop 1,100,00 2011)
Aizawl is the capital city. “Mizo-ram” means “land of the Mizos”. Within India’s northeast old-Assam region, it is the southernmost landlocked state, sharing borders with Tripura, Assam and Manipur and a 722-kilometre border with Bangladesh and Myanmar.
Part of Assam until 1972, it became India’s 23rd state in 1987.
21,087 kms2, about 91% of the state is forested. About 95% of Mizoram’s population descends from a diverse tribal origin. Mizos first began to settle the area in the 16th century, coming in waves of immigration from Southeast Asia. This immigration lasted through the 18th century. Among all of the states of India, Mizoram has the highest concentration of tribal people. Mizoram is one of three states of India with a Christian majority (87%). Its people belong to various Christian denominations, being mostly Presbyterians in the north and Baptists in the south.
Mizoram is a highly literate agrarian economy. Slash-and-burn jhum, or shifting cultivation, is the most common form of farming here, though it gives poor crop yields and is steadily being replaced with a significant horticulture and bamboo products industry. About 20% of Mizoram’s population lives below poverty line, with 35% rural poverty as of 2014. The state has about 871 kilometres of national highways, with NH-54 and NH-150 connecting it to Assam and Manipur respectively. It is also a growing transit point for trade with Myanmar and Bangladesh.
Today, Mizoram is a mix of this cross-cultural vibrancy with 92 % literacy, gender equality and a vigorous pursuit of its ancient cultural traditions and social mores. Almost everybody in the state is a Christian by religion and yet haven’t allowed their distinct Mizo culture to fade.
Women work everywhere in Mizoram. A lot of shops are run and managed by women. Men tend to do more laborious work and jobs like taxi drivers, car/scooter mechanics, working in the fields etc. Women are respected for the most part and maintain equal standing with men. Smoking and chewing tobacco is very common in Mizoram. Many women too smoke, chew tobacco, betel leaf with areca nut and consume various tobacco products. Comfortable and decent western clothing is uniformly worn across the state.
Divorces are common but so are re-marriages. There is strong community and family support so there are few beggars to be seen in Mizoram. The crime rate is comparatively low and most Mizo houses in villages and small towns are unlocked. The society has traditionally been quite classless. However with steady economic growth, income stratification is beginning to occur which is affecting traditional social norms.
All cities, towns and villages are located on top of mountains for safety.

See. Manipur, Assam and Tripura bind the northern end of the Blue Mountains with neighboring countries Myanmar and Bangladesh. Evergreen ranges of Mizoram hills with blooms of exotic flora and dense bamboo jungles rise sharply from the plains of Assam in a north south direction. These hills and plunging gorges are criss-crossed by rivers and waterfalls. Highest among its several peaks is the Phawngpui (Blue Mountain).
Mizoram is a destination with much to offer, with its wide array of festivals and dances, handicrafts, flora and fauna, breathtaking natural beauty, and temperate climate. The Mizo are very friendly and hospitable. English is commonly spoken.
Talk. The main language in Mizoram is Mizo, but English is widely understood as it is taught in the schools.
Get In. Indian citizens require an Inner Line Pass (ILP) for entry. By law, foreign nationals are required to register themselves at the office of the Superintendent of the Police (CID/SB) of Mizoram within 24 hours of arrival.
By plane. Mizoram’s only airport, Lengpui Airport, is near Aizawl, and can be reached from Kolkata and Guwahati. The road from the airport to the city takes another 1 h or a shared Sumo but act very fast.
By road. Mizoram is connected through National Highway 54 from Silchar, Assam.
Get around. Car rental. Taxi. Flag down a taxi going in your direction and jump in. Contribute about 1/5 of the normal fare. By bus, minibus and sumo are very bumpy and the buses are not so spacious.
Eat. The Mizo people love boiled food and non-vegetarian food. Bai (boiled vegetables in water with of salt, chingal [now replaced with cooking soda], and sa-um). Chhangban (mizo chhang), which is boiled or cooked dough of glutinous rice. Sawhchiar is rice with pork or chicken.
The food is generally cheap /reasonable. Even roadside restaurants are quite hygienic. You can see the food cooked in front of you. This could be because all these places are run and managed by women.
Drink. Mizoram is no longer dry
Stay Safe. Mizoram is among the safest states, if not the safest, in India in terms of crime, personal safety and insurgency. Most people, including single female travelers, will not face any problems walking along the streets alone at night.
Unlike the rest of India, Mizoram has an excellent road safety system, little honking and impatience.
Respect. Mizos in general are very friendly, hospitable and welcoming to a fault. The church has a unique and influential position in Mizo society. Avoid criticizing anything about it as it can cause offense.
Get Out. Mizoram is sandwiched between Bangladesh and Myanmar, so it could be possible for you to visit the border towns for foreign goods from both countries.

NOMAD MANIA India – Mizoram (Aizawl, Kolasib, Mamit, Saiha, Champai)
Borders
Bangladesh-India
India-Myanmar
XL: Southern Mizoram (Lunglei)
Villages and Small Towns
Reiek
Airports: Aizawl (AJL)
Museums: Aizawl: Mizoram State Museum
World of Nature
Murlen NP
Phawngpui Blue Mountain NP
Rivers: Kaladan River
Waterfalls: Vantawng Falls

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TRIPURA (Argatala)
It is one of the regions least explored by foreign tourists, but offers immense natural beauty and an intriguing cultural heritage. Tripura is one of three Indian states ruled by communists, making their presence felt with murals and flags in many places.

Tripura belongs to the politically volatile North-Eastern region. As in neighboring states, ethnic and communal strife has claimed many lives over the years. The current ethnic setup in Tripura is a consequence of the Partition of India, when large groups of Bengali Hindus left the area that became East Pakistan (today Bangladesh). The previous majority population, the tribals, became a minority and socio-economically disadvantaged in comparison to the new majority.
Two major tribal rebel groups operate in the state, the National Liberation Front of Tripura and the All Tripura Tiger Force, which wants Tripura to secede from India. There have been no known account of any violence against tourists in the state, nor any indication that tourist would be a target of violent groups. On the other hand, there are only a few foreign tourists reaching the state at all.
Talk. The main language is Bengali. The largest tribal language (30%) is Kok Borok. Other languages include Manipuri, Chakma. Hindi is very rarely used in the state, but is understood.
Get in. Tripura is mainly surrounded by the Bangladesh border. There is a border crossing point at the outskirts of the state capital Agartala. There is a direct bus service operating between Kolkata-Dhaka-Agartala.
For Bangladeshi visas, there is a Bangladeshi consulate in Agartala that issues viasa the same day in the afternoon.
By plane. Agartala (IXA) is connected with Kolkata, Guwahati, Silchar and Delhi,  Bangalore, Hyderabad and Chennai. Foreign citizens need to register at the airport on arrival.
By train. Express train daily between Agartala and Lumding. Book well in advance. Daily train service also from Agartala to Silchar and Lumding (Assam) and Dharmanagar (Tripura).
Get Around. Buses are the main means of transport. Roads may be bad in rainy seasons, even by Indian standards. On some legs, vehicles travel in military convoys, moving extremely slowly through the countryside, especially on the national highway which connects Agartala with Assam. Some rural areas are not safe to travel by nighttime.
Stay Safe. 
Local people are nice and helpful, but be aware of Bengali auto drivers, charging more than the normal rate. For short distance travels, always hire three-wheeler rickshaws; they are convenient and easily available anywhere.
Get Out. Regular flights to Kolkata, Guwahati. Rail Assam through broad gauge railway. Bangladesh by road.

NOMAD MANIA India – Tripura (Agartala, Ambasa, Kailashahar)
Borders: Bangladesh-India
XL: Tripura southwestern Panhandle
Airports: Agartala (IXA)
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Tripura – Agartala: Ujjayanta Palace
Vestiges of the Past
Pilak Historical Palace (Shyam Sundar Ashram)
Unakoti
World of Nature: Rajbari NP (Trishna Wildlife Sanctuary)

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I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am "home", are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking. I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.
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