SEE
Spring is the time when Kashmir bursts into a riot of colors and millions of flowers carpet the landscape.
Experiences
Bhuddist chanting
Diwali
Experience a Hindu wedding (at least 3 days!)
Experience Holi
Krishna Janmashtami
Kumbha Mela Pilgrimage
Play field hockey
Play/hear Sitar
Practice yoga
Vesakha
JAMMU & KASHMIR (Srinigar, Jammu, Kathua, Kargil)
MUGHAL GARDENS in KASHMIR Tentative WHS (13/12/2010).
Pre-Mughal Period. Before the advent of Islam, Kashmir was predominantly Hindu with wooded pleasure gardens – orchards, flowers, herbs and aromatic plants.
Islam came to Kashmir in the 14th C. with the Shahmiri Sultanate, some from Persia. The gardens followed a similar pattern of Persian Paradise gardens, with terraces arranged around a central water channel, lined with fountains and planted with a variety of flowers and trees that grew in abundance within the Valley. By the 16th C., these gardens embedded with the Persian spirit were already established in Kashmir. Mughal kings on the banks of the Dal Lake in the foothills of Zabarwan mountains.
Mughals in Kashmir. In 1586 A.D, Akbar took over Kashmir and Kashmir became the summer resort to successive Emperors: Akbar, Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurengzeb for nearly a century and a half. Jahangir spent fourteen summers in the Valley of Kashmir.
Gardens. Owe their grandeur primarily to Emperor Jahangir and his son Shah Jahan. The sites selected were at the foot of a mountain with a source of water resulting in terraced garden layouts – a central water channel sourced at natural springs enhanced by avenues of poplars or chinar trees. Pavilions are over the water channels that cascade from one terrace to another in the form of chadars or falls, where they fill in the larger water tanks, hauz, squarish in form and having an array of fountains. Finally, the water from the central channel joins a water body, either a flowing stream nearby, as in case of Achabal, or a lake, as in case of Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh.
Nishat Bagh. (1634 AD) The bagh or garden is on the eastern bank of Dal Lake at the foot of Zabarwan mountains with a lot of fountains, majestic Chinar trees and good views of the Dal Lake. Rectangular 116.70 acres, 556.50 x 350.00 m. 12 terraces in three main sections. The lowest terrace is on the lake containing Oont Kadal, a historic bridge. Views are to Hari Parbat Fort, which rises above Srinagar across the vast Dal Lake.
Shalimar Bagh. Early origins date to the 6th C. and restarted in 16th C. as traditional chahar bagh concept. The most famous of all with Chinar trees some 400 years old (Chinar Platanus Orientalis is a gigantic as tall as 25 meters. 594 x 250 m, five main terraces, pavilions, pools and water cascades. The Pink Pavilion is over the water channel of the second terrace – rectangular open pavilion constructed in bricks, papier mache ceilings, carved columns, brackets and railings made of stone. The Black Pavilion on the fourth terrace of brick masonry, carvings of the stone columns and brackets around the Pavilion.
Six watch towers, garden is lush with, flowers, well-mowed turf and some fruit trees. Setting of rice fields and hamlets, the historic canal that links the garden to Dal Lake, and the mountain backdrop, all contribute.
Developed for pleasure, enjoyment and for holding Court and a testimony to the lavish Mughal lifestyle which made the Court escape, every summer, from the scorching heat of the Indian plains, and travel hundreds of miles to find respite in the greens of the garden.
Achabal Bagh. The royal garden predates the Mughals in Kashmir and was renowned in the 15th C. when an orchard garden existed until 1620 – spring water, Chinar trees and roaring water channels, rapezoidal, 9.7 acres, at the base of a forested mountain, four gently ascending terraces, spring water is collected in a canal, branch canals with platforms and pavilions built over the water channel. A hammam was constructed within the garden in the 17th C.
Chashma Shahi (“The Grand Spring”). Developed in 1632 around an abundant spring emerging from the slopes of the Zabarwan Mountains famous for its pure water, three ascending and high terraces, 70.83 m x 122.81 m, strong Mughal character of its gateway, cascades and retaining walls. Good views of the city and Dal lake.
Pari Mahal. West of Srinagar, near Chasma Shahi, on the slopes of the Zebanwan mountains. Prince Dara Shukoh, the eldest son of Shah Jahan, built the gardens around 1650. Six terraces, arched retaining walls support the terraces, 122 m by 62.5 m. Garden contains no water channels and cascades (chadars) that feed the water tanks but water supplied via pipes.
Verinag. Octagonal pavilion-garden, built around a spring the source of Jehlum River in 1619-20. The garden is a large octagonal tank connected to a very long and straight water channel (12′ wide and 1000′ long) with trout.
Harwan Garden. Asia’s largest tulip garden. Located just opposite the main Boulevard Road on the shores of the Dal Lake. Although work on the garden started in 2009, nevertheless, with each season it is expanding rapidly and is fast becoming a major tourist attraction in Spring. Angling in the many fresh water streams is an attraction in spring as well.
SILK ROAD SITES in INDIA. Tentative WHS (20/01/2010). The Silk route was a major trading pathway through the first millennium B.C. It connected the kingdom of Kamboja; todays Afghanistan and Tajikistan, to ancient Pratishthana; Paithan on Godavari towards south, cities and cultural centers in north India up to Tamralipti or Tamluk on the eastern sea coast.
In north India, the highway Uttarapatha in the Gangetic valley connected the great cities of ancient India: Taxila, Mathura, Ahichhatra, Sravasti, Saketa, Kausambi, Prayaga, Kasi, Kusinagara, Vaisali, Pataliputra, Rajgreha, Bodhagaya and Tamralipti etc. Chandragupta Maurya from Magadh reached the Indus River and met Seleucus the Greek envoy in 305 B.C.
The distribution of Painted Grey Ware (PGW) settlements from the end of first millennium B.C. onwards suggests a broadly common zone cutting across various sub-cultures of the northern section of the Indian sub continent. Deluxe ceramics called the North Black Polished Ware (NBPW). Lapis lazuli coming from central Asia and Afghanistan is found at several sites like. The Asokan inscription (3rd C.BC.) found in northern India (specially Uttarapatha) defines the trade route in Indo-Gangetic divide.
Dakshinapatha is a trade route to the south from Pataliputra and Kausambi to Pratishthana on the Godavari. The presence of PGW and other ceramic assemblage at a number of sites in the Morena, Ujjain, Malwa Plateau is indicative of cultural elements travelling from Northern India to this region.
Silk Road was for silk and gold, ivory, spices, exotic animals and plants. No single route was taken, crossing Central Asia, but several different branches developed passing through different settlements on the northern and southern routes of India.
Initially the route started from Changan, headed up the Gansu corridor and reached Dunhuang on the edge of Taklamakan. The northern route then passed through Yamen Guan, Kumul, Turfan, Kuka and finally arriving Kashgar at the foot of the Pamir. The southern route branched off at Dunhuang passing through Miran, Charkhlik, Cherchen, Niya, Khotan, Karghalik, Yarkand finally turning north again to meet the other route at Kashgar. Another route was branched from Yarkand and it runs through Sheghana, Balkh and onwards. Balkh was also well connected with the Samarkand by a trade route.
India was well connected with the Silk Road by three probable routes. First route was via Srinagar, Gilgit and Karakoram Range, another was via Purushapur and the last was via Hadda, Kapisa, Bamiyan which finally joins the Silk Road near Balkh. Uttrapatha via Yunnan and Burma was used for trade with south-western China.
Alexander the Great colonized the area in about 330 B.C. and the effect of the Greek invasion considerable. This ‘crossroads’ region, covering the area to the south of the Hindukush and Karakorum ranges, now Pakistan and Afghanistan, was overrun by a number of different peoples.
The Kushan people in the first century A.D. moved into this crossroads area, bringing their adopted Buddhist religion with them. Romans first encountered silk from a mysterious tribe referred to as the silk people, ‘Seres’. The Kushans issued gold coins on the Roman standards.
The most significant commodity carried along this route was not silk, but religion. Buddhism came to China and central Asian countries from India this way, along the northern branch of the route. The first was over the Karakorum and the Buddhism in China is derived from the Gandhara culture on the Indus River, rather than directly from India. Buddhism reached Tibet later in the seventh century.
Buddhism penetrated China from the 1st century BC. From the 4th century, Chinese pilgrims also started to travel to India. It reached Korea in the 4th century and Japan in the 6th century. The Buddhist faith gave birth to a number of different sects in Asia which are still flourishing in Japan.
Ancient monastery and stupa together with adjacent land (Harwan), Decorated patterns of terracotta tile-pavements in the apsidal stupa became a symbol of the art of Kashmir. Situated 12 miles north – east of Srinagar. It was a thriving and a prosperous Buddhist settlement in the early centuries of Christian era. The complex of Harwan consists of a monastery for the monks, prayer hall or Chaitya, and a Stupa dated to fourth or fifth century A.D. The most important feature of the site of archaeological value is the terracotta or baked clay titles, on the floor of the Chaitya. It is an apsidal Chaitya or horseshoe arched temple in diaper pebble style with a tiled courtyard as circumambulatory passage. These Harwan terracotta floor covering have unique place in the plastic art of India represented beautifully in the Kashmir valley for the first time. The tiles in backed clay are 18’x12” long and moulded with floral, geometrical, human and animal designs. They reflect a colourful and pulsating life style of the contemporary society. Some tiles have dancing girls, and musician beating the drums lovers chatting on the balconies a favourite theme depicted on them. There are rams and cocks fighting, geese running, ducks and pheasants within a floral pattern. The geometric design consists of wary lines, frets and fish bone patterns lotus and aquatic plants and various types of flowers adequately represented.
THE NEOLITHIC SETTLEMENT of BURZAHOM. Tentative WHS (15/04/2014). Human habitation patterns from Neolithic to Megalithic period to the early Historic period. Tool-making, diffusion of lentil in the north-western India, life between 3000 BCE to 1000 BCE.
From subterranean dwelling pits, mud-structures, to mud-bricks constructions on level ground. Engraved stone depicting a hunting scene, with human, a dog, the sun path diagram has been found.
SRINAGAR (pop 1 million)
Srinagar is the largest city and the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir and lies in the Kashmir Valley on the banks of the Jhelum River, a tributary of the Indus, and Dal and Anchar lakes. The city is known for its natural environment, gardens, waterfronts and houseboats. It is also known for traditional Kashmiri handicrafts like Kashmir shawls and also dried fruits. It has over one million people.
Srinagar has a humid subtropical climate. The valley is surrounded by the Himalayas on all sides. Winters are cool, with daytime temperature averaging to 2.5 °C and below freezing point at night. Moderate to heavy snowfall occurs in winter and the highway connecting Srinagar with the rest of India faces frequent blockades due to icy roads and avalanches. Summers are warm with a July daytime average of 24.1 °C. The average annual rainfall is around 720 millimetres (28 in).
Srinagar is one of several places that have been called the “Venice of the East”. Lakes around the city include Dal Lake – noted for its houseboats – and Nigeen Lake. Wular Lake (one of the largest fresh water lakes in Asia) and Manasbal Lake both lie to the north of Srinagar.
Srinagar Airport (SXR)
SPS Museum
Jamia Masjid
Shankaracharya Temple. On a hill top in the middle of the city
Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Botanical Gardens. Established in 1969.
Srinagar Floating Market
Zero Bridge. Pedestrian Bridge
JAMMU* (pop 500,000)
Jammu is the winter capital of Jammu and Kashmir. Lying on the banks of the river Tawi, the city is surrounded by the Himalayas in the north and the northern-plains in the south. Known as the City of Temples for its ancient temples and Hindu shrines, Jammu is the most visited place in the union territory.
The city spreads around the Tawi river with the old city overlooking it from the north (right bank) while the new neighbourhoods spread around the southern side (left bank) of the river. There are five bridges on the river. The city is built on a series of ridges.
Climate: humid subtropical climate with extreme summer highs reaching and in the winter below 4 °C (39 °F).
Tourism is the largest industry with pilgrims going to Vaishno Devi and Kashmir valley as it is second last railway terminal in North India. All the routes leading to Kashmir, Poonch, Doda and Laddakh start from Jammu city. Jammu Airport (IXJ)
Jammu Mail Railway (Jammu to Udhampur)
Dogra Art Museum
Hazratbal Masjid
Amar Mahal Palace
Bagh-e-Bahu Aquarium
OTHER DESTINATIONS
Kashmir Line of Control. XL
Skyview Patnitop, Udhampur
Amarnath Cave Temple, Anantnag. Pahalgam (‘village of Shepherds’) is a very popular resort 90kms S of Srinagar. Horse-riding, fishing and trekking routes (including the one that goes to Amarnath, a hindu pilgrimage shrine deep in the Himalayas). Pahalgam has good tourist infrastructure; because of the annual Hindu pilgrimage “Amarnath Yatra” starts from here. Each year, thousands of Indians trek 30 kilometres deep into the mountains to pay obeisance to a large icicle which they relate to the Hindu God Shiva.
Vaishno Devi Mandir, Katra
Kokernag Botanical Garden. Kokernag is a spring garden located in Anantnag, 80 kilometers south of Srinagar. The main garden lies on foothills surrounded by lush pine trees and a beautiful garden. There is a stream that flows from a spring at the far end of the garden.
Zanskaris – Indigenous Peoples
Sonamarg (“Meadow Of Gold”). Located 84kms from Srinagar at 9567 feet on the River Sindh, it is the gateway to Ladakh. Surrounded by towering snow-capped mountains, meadows and streams.
Kishtwar NP
Dachigam NP
Amarnath Trek. Situated at an altitude of 12,756ft, Amarnath cave is a Hindu pilgrimage shrine deep in the Himalayas. Each year, thousands of Indians trek 30 kilometres deep into the mountains to pay obeisance to a large icicle which they relate to the Hindu God Shiva.
The 45-km distance is covered in four days. The unpredictable weather, landslides, oxygen deprivation. Pahalgam (‘village of Shepherds’) is a very popular resort 90kms S of Srinagar (horse-riding, fishing and trekking, good tourist infrastructure; mainly because of the pilgrimage ”
Gulmarg (‘the meadow of flowers’) A world famous ski resort, 56 kms south-west of Srinagar. Some of the heaviest snowfall in the Himalayan. This hill resort is served by a cable car that goes all the way to the Apharwat peak – boasted as the highest gondola in the world (13,400 feet). The season lasts for about four months, but much longer on the Thajiwas Glacier and upper Sonamarg valley covered with snow year around.
Gulmarg Gondola. The two-stage gondola ferries 600 people per hour to the Gulmarg resort at 2,600 m (8,530 ft) and then to 3,747 m (12,293 ft) on Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of nearby Apharwat Peak (4,200 m (13,780 ft)). The second stage has 36 cabins and 18 towers, takes skiers to a height of on Kongdoori Mountain,
Aru Valley. Popular with Israeli backpackers. Transport twice from Srinagar to the village of Aru, about 30 minutes away from the popular town of Pahalgam. Aru is a very tiny one-street village, very green, at the end of a valley surrounded by pine tree covered hills and snow-capped peaks. No contact with outside. Locals are sheep and goat herders on horseback. Two day hikes:
Green Top – steep climb up the valley to a patch of green on the ridge of the range. 800m and 360-degree view. There is not really a trail so maybe a guide is necessary?
Base Camp – flat area in the middle of the mountains where multiday hiking groups usually base themselves. 20km return on a major path, obvious and frequented by local people but no signs. Use Maps.Me.
Gypsies living above Aru live in mud huts moving seasonally with their animals. The gypsies share a heritage with nomadic tribes in Pakistan and Afghanistan and their piercing green eyes and olive skin are striking.
Despite having a ‘high security risk’, it is peaceful with no police or army. Visit Pahalgam to access the internet and pick up snacks, but stay in Aru village. Five guesthouses: Rohella Guesthouse is very friendly. Guesthouses have a kitchen that can cook all three of your meals. Guides 1000 rupees for day. Shared taxi from Sringar at the petrol pump near Dal Gate to Islamabad and a second to Pahalgam 3.5 hours. Third taxi to Aru 30 minutes.
LADAKH (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake)
Access is via the 434 km Srinagar-Leh highway which connects Leh with Srinagar and the 473 km Leh-Manali Highway which connects Manali with Leh. Both roads are open only on a seasonal basis. Although the access roads from Srinagar and Manali are often blocked by snow in winter, the local roads in the Indus Valley usually remain open due to the low level of precipitation and snowfall.
Climate. Leh has a cold desert climate with long, cold winters from late November to early March, with minimum temperatures well below freezing for most of the winter. The city gets occasional snowfall during winter. The weather in the remaining months is generally fine and warm during the day. Average annual rainfall is only 102 mm (4.02 inches).
At an average elevation of 3500 metres, only one crop a year can be grown. The main crop is grim (naked barley from which tsampa, the staple food in Ladakh, is made. The water for agriculture of Ladakh comes from the Indus, which runs low in March and April when barley-fields have the greatest need for irrigation.
Demographics. Leh has an average literacy rate of 75%. The people of Leh are ethnic Tibetan, speaking Ladakhi, a Tibetic language.
Ladakh receives very large numbers of tourists for its size. In 2010, 77,800 tourists arrived This growth is largely accounted for by larger numbers of trips by domestic Indian travellers.
Religion. Hinduism is the oldest religion in the valley, having the second largest number of followers after Buddhism. Since the 8th-century they co-inhabited with no records of any conflict between them.
Sindhu Darshan Festival is held at Shey, 15 km away from town to promote religious harmony and glory of Indus (Sindhu) river. At this time, many tourists visit Leh.
Get in.
By road. Leh is connected to the rest of India by two high-altitude roads both subject to landslides. Neither are passable in winter when covered by deep snows. The. The third road axis is under construction.
434-km. National Highway 1 typically remains open for traffic from June to October/November. The most dramatic part is the ascent up the 3,505 m (11,500 ft.) high Zoji-la, a tortuous pass in the Great Himalayan Wall. Bus services between Srinagar and Leh with an overnight halt at Kargil.
473-km Leh-Manali Highway is open for traffic from June to late October. Traverses the upland desert plateaux of Rupsho at altitudes of 3,660 m to 4,570 m. There are a number of high passes en route: Tanglang La (5,325 m 17,469 feet) is the highest.
Nimmu–Padam–Darcha road. The third road axis to Leh. It is currently under construction. Leh-Manali Highway can be troublesome due to very high passes and plateaus, and the lower but landslide-prone Rohtang Pass near Manali
By air. Leh’s Leh Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport
Delhi at least daily on Air India which also provides twice weekly services to Jammu and a weekly flight to Srinagar. There is no railway service currently in Ladakh.
Leh Airport (IXL)
Ladakhis, Indigenous Peoples
COLD DESERT CULTURAL LANDSCAPE of INDIA.Tentative WHS (15/04/2015). In the Himalayas, it stretches from Ladakh in the north to Kinnaur (in the state of Himachal Pradesh, or H.P.) in the south. Administratively, the Leh and Kargil districts of Ladakh division in J&K, Spiti region of the Lahaul and Spiti district in H.P. and a part of Kinnaur District in the state of H.P.
The region constitutes a Cold Desert biome with harsh climatic conditions, which can be attributed to two factors. One is its location on the leeward side of the Himalayas, which makes it a rain-shadow zone inaccessible to the annual south eastern monsoon winds that sweep the rest of the country, thus creating desert conditions with low levels of precipitation. Second is its very high elevation (ranging from 3000 – 5000m ASL) that adds to the coldness in its environment. A huge seasonal variation is seen in the climatic conditions, ranging from short and dry summers with harsh sunlight (maximum temperature to 36˚C during the day) to long, windy and freezing winters (minimum temperature -32˚C at night). Blizzards, snowstorms and avalanches are common. The soil is not very fertile and the climatic conditions allow very short growing seasons making it a bare landscape. Water resources are minimal and comprise glacier-fed streams.
The many settlements provide marginally improved conditions for habitation, nestled within valleys protected from harsh winds and located near rivulets. The settlements are small, isolated, sparsely populated with Indo-Mongoloid (Tibetan) people with some parts of western Ladakh occupied by the Dards, who are intermediaries of Ladakhis and Baltis of the neighbouring Baltistan in Pakistan occupied Kashmir (PoK). The distinct Buddhist culture is similar to Tibet.
Two distinct regions: (1) the Leh-Kargil areas of Ladakh (J&K) and (2) Spiti Valley (H.P.). Although they have been closely linked throughout the ages politically and socially, the two regions have different histories attributable to their isolated geographic locations and separate access routes, from Indian as well as Tibetan sides. While Ladakh lay on the trade routes from Punjab to Kashmir, and beyond to Baltistan (Skardo), Kashgar, Yarqand, Khotan (Eastern Central Asia or Xinjiang), Gartok, Lhasa (in Tibet) with Leh acting as an important trade centre, Spiti valley was more isolated and split into eastern and western valleys, connected with Ladakh & Tibet on its eastern side & Kinnaur and Kulu on western side through high passes.
Ladakh (‘land of the passes’) is one of the most elevated (2,900 m to 5,900 m msl), and coldest regions (from -30°C to -70°C) of the earth. In consonance with the above description, its topography is barren and population sparse inhabited along the river banks of different valleys namely Indus, Nubra, Changthang, Zanskar and Suru. The mean annual precipitation is less than 50 mm, received mostly in the form of snowfall during winters. The region faces fast blowing winds 40-60 km/hr mainly in the afternoon hours. The soil moisture remains frozen during winters and with low relative humidity during the summer months. Despite such inhospitable conditions for survival, it is postulated that Ladakh has been occupied by humans since pre-historic times, as evidenced in the discovery of Lower Palaeolithic tools, Petroglyphs and other pre-historic art works that mark the beginning of man’s interaction with this cold desert landscape. Evidence of its continued occupation can be ascertained throughout history since then, which is closely associated with Tibet.
Spiti, locally pronounced as ‘Piti’, is known as the ‘middle country’ that lies between Tibet and India. Throughout history, it kept changing hands among the various kingdoms of Tibet, Ladakh, Kinnaur, Lahaul and Kullu. Subjugated to successive attacks and influences, rulers paid attributes to one another to keep peace in the region. The original inhabitants were pastoral nomads and worshipped the natural features such as trees, rivers, sun, moon – the Naga Cult was a cult of snake worship. The river Spiti originates at the base of the Kunzam range and flows eastward to join the Sutlej at Khab in Kinnaur. Spiti has its sub divisional headquarters at Kaza, has 113 villages, of which 81 are permanent settlements and 32 are temporary. The inhabitants are largely dependent on agriculture, wild resources and medicinal plants for their livelihood. About 118 species of the Medicinal and Aromatic Plants are known from the valley.
The annual average precipitation for Ladakh and Zanskar (J&K) is only around 100 mm while that of Spiti valley (H.P.) is 170 mm as against the annual national average of 1083 mm.
It is believed that people from Central Asia between Khazakstan and China came to populate these areas during the Bronze Age (circa fourth millenium BCE). They were pastoralists attracted to the valleys and high mountains for summer transhumance.
Buddhism was first introduced to Ladakh about 200 BCE during the reign of Maurya Emperor, Asoka the Great.
Gompas. Almost all settlements have Buddhist monasteries or Gompas with a trademark prayer flag fluttering on top. Built either on flat land or atop the neighbouring hillock depending upon local factors, these shrines are the centers of the people’s cultural life. Men depend on the social security system of the Gompas. The architecture is an interesting amalgamation of Indian and Tibetan influences, and monastic buildings are deeply Buddhist. Each settlement and its Gompa have their own unique associations and the culture.
The walls of the monasteries are decorated with frescos depicting Buddhist subjects drawn from Buddha’s life and his ideals. Walls are also embellished with thankas (paintings on cloth) displaying Jataka stories and other Buddhist themes. An exceptional thanka, the biggest in the world is ritually exhibited once in twelve years in Hemis monastery.
Chorten (‘receptacle of worship’ types of stupas), and Mani walls, long and thick platform-like row of stones, about 1 to 1.25 m high and 1.25 m wide, faced with carved stones inscribed with holy mantras.
Buddhist chanting. Buddhist lamas in monasteries and villages of Ladakh, Lahul-Spiti and Kinnaur chant sacred texts representing the spirit, philosophy and teachings of the Buddha.
Culture. The performing arts (traditional dance including mask dance, theater, contemporary plays, folk music), craft-making techniques (thangkas, carpet weaving, pashmina and marino shawls and local quilt weaving, prayer flags of cloth, gold, silver, bronze sculptures, copper objects, wooden furniture including manuscript shelves, stone, stucco and clay), customs (sacred paintings, agriculture farming, kitchen-gardening, culinary, giving birth, wedding, death et al), rituals and beliefs (medicinal ritual called Am-chi), language and literature (heroic accomplishments, folk stories, legends, classical and vernacular language, dialects, songs, poems, ancient scripts), etc. are parts of cultural legacy and well-maintained intangible heritage traditions of the property.
Hemis National Park, A high altitude park globally famous for its snow leopards.
The city of Leh is 10 km (6.2 mi) to the north of the park. It is the only national park in India that is north of the Himalayas and the largest national park in South Asia. The park is bounded on the north by the Indus River, and includes the Markha, Sumdah and Rumbak, and parts of the Zanskar Range. The park lies within the Karakoram-West Tibetan Plateau alpine steppe ecoregion, and contains pine forests, alpine shrub lands and meadows, and alpine tundra vegetation.
Fauna. The park is home to a viable breeding population of about 200 snow leopards, especially in Rumbak, Snow leopards prey on livestock, sometimes killing several animals from a single flock in one hunt.
Also Great Tibetan Sheep, Bharal (Blue Sheep, cause crop damage), Ladakhi Urial, Asiatic ibex, Tibetan wolf, Eurasian brown bear (endangered in India), and the red fox and livestock.
Over 1,600 people live inside the park boundaries, mostly pastoralists raising poultry, goats, and sheep. This results in considerable animal-human conflict within the region.
Hemis Festival at Hemis Monastery every summer. Lodging is restricted to backcountry camps, villager homestays and accommodation at the monasteries.
Nearest airport: Leh Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport, Nearest railhead: Kalka, Haryana. The city of Leh is 10 km (6.2 mi) to the north of the park.
Trekking From mid-June to mid-October.
Markha Trek (Ladakh). The most popular and beautiful trek in Ladakh, Easy navigation. Homestays rotate in each village, no competition, set price with no bargaining, so no camping gear, great cultural experience. Price includes bed, dinner, breakfast and packed lunch for next day. Often a mattress on the floor in a shared room with other trekkers and maybe even your host.
There are no permits required. Pay a park fee of 20 rupees per day.
Day 1. Chilling to Skyu. 2 hours drive from Leh. TH just past the village of Chilling, at a newly built bridge to avoid a road walk. 7kms, 2 hours, ascend 180m to Skyu,
Day 2. Skyu to Markha. Long undulating trail along the river valley floor. Chortens/stupas, colourful mountains. Can be hot and dry. 21kms, 6 hours, ascend 420m
Day 3. Markha to Lower Hankar. Leave early to beat the other trekkers. Wade a knee-deep river. Pass through the village of Umlang and Lower Hankar at elevation near 4000m. 10kms, 3 hours, ascend 210m.
Day 4. Hankar to Nimaling Camp. Pass a campsite for trekking groups, then ascend 800kms to Nimaling at 4800m. 12km, 4 hours, ascend 860m.
Day 5. Nimaling to Kongmaru to Shang Sumdo. Climb for 3kms to a Kongmaru La pass and gigantic views (5250m). Ascend 3kms, 1.25 hours, 430m. Descend from pass for 14km, 4 hours, descend 1580m.
From Chogdo, catch a taxi or walk 5kms down to Shang Sumdo, the village at the official end of the trek and closer to the sealed main road. Buses leave for Leh on Monday, 90 minutes. Taxi 2000r.
Food – good, home cooked with locally grown produce, usually rice, dahl and vegetables, stew and tingmo. Breakfast is only tea and chapatti bring snacks, he packed lunches a sandwich, a boiled potato or two, a juice box and a chocolate bar.
The trail is obvious with many others trekking. Follow the footprints/poo as it’s likely to be more accurate.
Spituk to Stok trek over the Ganda La pass, a high mountain pass 4980 metres high, 23 km south-west of Leh within Hemis National Park. It connects the Markha valley villages to Leh, and is regularly used by local people. The summer pass is open from June, and the winter pass (half kilometre north-west of summer pass) is open from late April.
Peaks: Stok Kangri peak (6,153 metres (20,187 ft)) and the Kang Yatse peak (elevation 6,496 metres (21,312 ft))
LEH (pop 27,500 2001)
The joint capital and largest town of Ladakh. It was also the historical capital of the Himalayan Kingdom of Ladakh, the seat of which was in the Leh Palace, the former residence of the royal family of Ladakh, built in the same style and about the same time as the Potala Palace in Tibet. Leh is at an altitude of 3,524 metres (11,562 ft), and is connected via National Highway 1 to Srinagar in the southwest and to Manali in the south via the Leh-Manali Highway.
Old Town of Leh. Increased rainfall from climate change, neglect and changing settlement patterns within the old town have threatened the long-term preservation of this unique site.
Mountains dominate the landscape Nanga Sago (5,500m). The principal access roads
NUBRA VALLEY
The most popular excursion from Leh is north to Nubra Valley, a Silk Road route. The valley stretches from the Karakoram Mountains in Pakistan to Tibet in the east.
The main town in Nubra Valley is Diskit, which has a beautiful monastery and plenty of hotels and restaurants servicing all the bikers and tours en route. On the outskirts of town, you’ll find a stretch of sand dunes, which offer a bizarre contrast to the snow-capped mountains surrounding them.
Turtuk, to the west is the northernmost village in India, a picturesque village on the banks of the Shyok River. Technically a part of Baltistan Pakistan, the people are ethnic Balti. From the small temple above, can see K2 across the border.
Pangong Lake is one of the highest saltwater lakes in the world at 4250m. Popular due to its fluorescent blue colour and is sacred for Buddhism. Almost 2/3 of it lies in Tibet.
The road to Pangong Lake is paved through a heavily militarised area. It crosses multiple high passes, the most famous is Khardung La pass, once considered to be the highest road pass in the world, at 5360m, which connects Leh and Diskit in Nubra Valley.
A typical Nubra Valley sightseeing tour is three nights, four days: first night in Turtuk (Khan Homestay, wifi), the second in Diskit (Ama Guesthouse) and the third on the shores of Pangong (Spangmik or Man villages with glamping-style tents). A permit is required as Nubra and Pangong are technically part of the sensitive border regions. 600 rupees.
The jeep cost around 4000 rupees each person for the entire four days, for six people. The government has set prices for these kinds of Ladakh tours. It just depends on which agency has a group going on which day to suit your own timing. We went with Great Himalaya Adventure on Changspa Road.
DISKIT (pop 1,800) is a village with 344 households. The effective literacy rate is 76.57%. It is a popular tourist destination 118 km from Leh and 7 km from Hunder. Situated on the banks of the Shyok River, Diskit has many homestay and guest house options that are open throughout the year. The main market is a small place with a few tiny restaurants.
Diskit Monastery Buddha statue is the oldest and largest Buddhist monastery in the Nubra Valley and belongs to the (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery has statue of Cho Rinpoche (Crowned Buddha) in the prayer hall, a huge drum and several images of fierce guardian deities.
LAMAYURU
Lamayuru Monastery
PANAMIK
OTHER DESTINATIONS
Brokpa communities in Ladakh. XL. Small community of Dard people from Chilas who had migrated to eastern Kashmir in the remote past. They speak a language called Brokstat, an Indo-European Shina language, which is unintelligeble with other Shina dialects. They are mostly found in the Indian-administered Ladakh and are Buddhist: Dha, Hanu, Beama, Garkon, Darchiks, Batalik, Sharchay and Chulichan. A few also in Pakistan-administered Baltistan, mostly Muslim, few Hindu: in the Deosai plateau just across the Line of Control in the villages Ganoaks, Morol, Dananusar, and Chechethang in Baltistan.
Chemrey Monastery
Thikse Monastery, Thikse