Understand
Kashmir is a land divided between the northern half of the northern-most state of India, Jammu and Kashmir and the district of Kashmir in Pakistan. Torn by war, terrorism and violence since 1948 by Pakistan militant groups, this beautiful valley has long been considered a dangerous place to go to, but tourism is slowly coming back to the valley as militancy, which began in the early 90 has come down. The most famous places to visit in Kashmir are Srinagar, Pahalgam and Gulmarg. Other places include Sonamarg and Verinag. There are various trekking routes available across whole of Kashmir. Adventure sports in the form of water rafting and paragliding, among others, are available at various tourist locations. The Royal Springs’ Golf course in the heart of Srinagar on the shores of the world famous Dal Lake is one of the most beautiful golf courses around.
Talk. The official state language is Urdu, though the most commonly spoken language in the Vale of Kashmir is Kashmiri (or Kashur). The younger generation speaks English quite well. Most of the sign-boards and directions are written in English. Others include Gojri and Dogri. Hindi is also widely spoken across Kashmir.
GET IN
By plane. Almost all the domestic airlines in India fly from Delhi to Srinagar. There are flights from Mumbai and Jammu too, and to Jeddah during the Haj Season.
By train. Jammu, Udhampur and Katra in Jammu Division are connected to the Indian Railways, and are connected to several major Indian cities. In order to get to Kashmir valley, the shortest way is to get off at Udhampur, and then travel by car or bus to Banihal. There is a ‘hanging’ railway in Kashmir Valley from Banihal to Baramulla, serving the cities of Anantnag and Srinagar en-route. The link from Banihal to Katra is expected to be complete in the next few years, which will connect the valley to the rest of the Indian rail network.
By road. From Jammu, various places in Kashmir are 6-8 hours by road. You can also hire a taxi or take a bus 20 hours from New Delhi. The landscape is very interesting from Jammu and many travellers prefer the road trip from there. Experience the famous rajmah chawal in Peerah and Pattisa (sweet made in ghee) in Kudd.
GET AROUND
The best way to travel across the known destinations in Kashmir is to hire a taxi for about $US60 a day. If you want to visit high altitude lakes and mountaineering destinations you can hire a horse to carry your stuff up the mountains.
MONEY Kashmiri Pashmina is exclusively Kashmiri can cost over $US450.
EAT
Rich and redolent with the flavour of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and saffron, Kashmiri food is suitable for all palates. Predominantly non-vegetarian, “Wazwaan” as it is called is the royal cuisine of Kashmir. It’s a preparation of a number of spicy meat dishes served with traditional rice by professional chefs called “Wazas”.
STAY SAFE
The past decade of turmoil has left traces in the Valley. Its important that you register with the Foreigners’ Registration unit of the Tourism Department. The registration counters are at Tourist Reception centres at Srinagar Airport, Srinagar City, Gulmarg, Sonmarg, Phalgam and other places.
In case of an emergency you can contact the nearest tourist police office or police station. The emergency number of the Police Control Room is 100.
Please be aware that the amount of military presence in the valley can be quite overwhelming for some. You will encounter soldiers with semi-automatic weapons guarding the airport, which may look like a heavily fortified place in a conflict zone before you finally step into the Terminal building. Soldiers will be seen all around the city and outskirts. Also, journies by taxi or bus to any famous tourist spots such as Pahalgam or Kokernag may get uncomfortably delayed due to the passage of long military convoys.
Personal safety. Kashmiris are considered very hospitable people. The Amarnath Yatra in which Hindus annually visit a cave situated deep in high altitude mountains in Pahalgam (supposedly the abode of Lord Shiva) has been going on peacefully for more than a hundred years and Kashmiris have been known to provide all help to the yatris, sometimes even braving harsh mountain weather (which is not that rare considering it’s a high altitude pilgrimage.) In 2006 a campaign of grenade attacks in Srinagar claimed the lives of six tourists and wounded forty on July 11. The targets included a tourist bus and the Tourist Reception Centre. A similar attack on May 31 against a tourist bus wounded 21. An explosion in a tourist bus in Shalimar Gardens on 29 July 2007 claimed six lives and wounded twenty one.
India
Experiences
Bhuddist chanting
Diwali
Experience a Hindu wedding (at least 3 days!)
Experience Holi
Krishna Janmashtami
Kumbha Mela Pilgrimage
Play field hockey
Play/hear Sitar
Practice yoga
Vesakha
NOMAD MANIA India – Jammu and Kashmir (Srinigar, Jammu, Kathua, Kargil)
Tentative WHS
Mughal Gardens in Kashmir (13/12/2010)
Silk Road Sites in India (20/01/2010)
The Neolithic Settlement of Burzahom (15/04/2014)
Borders: India-Pakistan
XL: Kashmir Line of Control
Cities of Asia and Oceania
SRINAGAR
Airports: Srinagar (SXR)
Museums: SPS Museum
Religious Temples
Jamia Masjid
Shankaracharya Temple
Botanical Gardens: Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Botanical Gardens
Markets: Srinagar Floating Market
Pedestrian Bridges: Zero Bridge
JAMMU*
Airports: Jammu (IXJ)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Jammu Mail Railway (Jammu to Udhampur)
Museums: Dogra Art Museum
Religious Temples: Hazratbal Masjid
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Amar Mahal Palace
Aquariums: Bagh-e-Bahu Aquarium
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars
Gulmarg Gondola
Udhampur: Skyview Patnitop
Religious Temples
Anantnag: Amarnath Cave Temple
Katra: Vaishno Devi Mandir
World of Nature
Dachigam NP
Hemis NP
Kishtwar NP
Lakes
Dal Lake
Wular Lake
Rivers
Chenab River
Jhelum River
Trails 1 – Treks: Amarnath Trek
Botanical Gardens: Kokernag: Botanical Garden
Ski Resorts: Gulmarg
Indigenous Peoples: Jammu & Kashmir : Zanskaris
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NOMAD MANIA India – Jammu and Kashmir (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake)
Tentative WHS: Cold Desert Cultural Landscape of India (15/04/2015)
Borders: India-Pakistan
XL: Brokpa communities in Ladakh
Villages and Small Towns
LEH (Jammu and Kashmir) World Cities and Popular Towns
Airports: Leh (IXL)
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Leh Palace
DISKIT, Ladakh
Religious Monuments: Diskit Monastery Buddha statue
LAMAYURU, Ladakh
Religious Temples: Lamayuru Monastery
PANAMIK, Ladakh
Religious Temples
Chemrey Monastery
Thikse: Thikse Monastery
Lakes: Pangaong Tso
Rivers
Indus River
Shyok River
Zanskar River
Trails 1 – Treks; Markha Trek (Ladakh)
Indigenous Peoples: Ladakhis
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HIMACHAL PRADESH (Shimla, Manali, Nahan, Dharamsala)
Great Himalayan National Park Conservation Area. World Heritage Site, This National Park in the western part of the Himalayan Mountains has high alpine peaks over 6,000m, alpine meadows and riverine forests below 2000m. It includes the upper mountain glacial and snow meltwater sources of several rivers, and the catchments of water supplies that are vital to millions of downstream users: the westerly flowing Jiwa Nal, Sainj and Tirthan Rivers and the north-westerly flowing Parvati River which are all headwater tributaries to the River Beas and subsequently, the Indus River. The GHNPCA protects the monsoon-affected forests and alpine meadows of the Himalayan front ranges. It is part of the Himalaya biodiversity hotspot and includes twenty-five forest types along with a rich assemblage of fauna species, several of which are threatened. This gives the site outstanding significance for biodiversity conservation.
It is in the “Western Himalayan Temperate Forests” ecoregion – home to 805 vascular plant species, 192 species of lichen, 12 species of liverworts and 25 species of mosses, 31 species of mammals, 209 birds, 9 amphibians, 12 reptiles and 125 insects.
Human settlement related threats pose the greatest concern and include agriculture, localised poaching, traditional grazing, human-wildlife conflicts and hydropower development. Tourism impact is minimal and trekking routes are closely regulated.
Mountain Railways of India, World Heritage Site. This site includes three railways.
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway was the first, and is still the most outstanding, example of a hill passenger railway. Opened in 1881 in the foothills of the Himalayas in West Bengal (Northeast India), ingenious engineering crossing a mountainous terrain of great beauty. 88.48 kilometers of 2 feet (0.610 meter) gauge track that connects New Jalpaiguri with Darjeeling, passing through Ghoom at an altitude of 2258 meters. The innovative design includes six zigzag reverses and three loops with a ruling gradient of 1:31.
Nilgiri Mountain Railway, a 46-km long metre-gauge single-track railway in the Nilgiri Hills of Tamil Nadu State was first proposed in 1854, but due to the difficulty of the mountainous location the work only started in 1891 and was completed in 1908. This railway, scaling an elevation of 326 m to 2,203 m, represented the latest technology of the time, a unique rack and pinion traction arrangement to negotiate steep gradient.
Kalka Shimla Railway, a 96-km long, single track working rail link built in the mid-19th century to provide a service to the highland town of Shimla in the Himalayan foothills of Himachal Pradesh (Northwest India). Has the world’s highest multi-arc gallery bridge and the world’s longest tunnel (at the time of construction).
Cold Desert Cultural Landscape of India Tentative WHS (15/04/2015). In the Himalayas, it stretches from Ladakh (in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, or J&K) in the north to Kinnaur (in the state of Himachal Pradesh, or H.P.) in the south. Administratively, the Leh and Kargil districts of Ladakh division in J&K, Spiti region of the Lahaul and Spiti district in H.P. and a part of Kinnaur District in the state of H.P.
The region constitutes a Cold Desert biome with harsh climatic conditions, which can be attributed to two factors. One is its location on the leeward side of the Himalayas, which makes it a rain-shadow zone inaccessible to the annual south eastern monsoon winds that sweep the rest of the country, thus creating desert conditions with low levels of precipitation. Second is its very high elevation (ranging from 3000 – 5000m ASL) that adds to the coldness in its environment. A huge seasonal variation is seen in the climatic conditions, ranging from short and dry summers with harsh sunlight (maximum temperature to 36˚C during the day) to long, windy and freezing winters (minimum temperature -32˚C at night). Blizzards, snowstorms and avalanches are common. The soil is not very fertile and the climatic conditions allow very short growing seasons making it a bare landscape. Water resources are minimal and comprise glacier-fed streams.
The many settlements provide marginally improved conditions for habitation, nestled within valleys protected from harsh winds and located near rivulets. The settlements are small, isolated, sparsely populated with Indo-Mongoloid (Tibetan) people with some parts of western Ladakh occupied by the Dards, who are intermediaries of Ladakhis and Baltis of the neighbouring Baltistan in Pakistan occupied Kashmir (PoK). The distinct Buddhist culture is similar to Tibet.
Two distinct regions: (1) the Leh-Kargil areas of Ladakh (J&K) and (2) Spiti Valley (H.P.). Although they have been closely linked throughout the ages politically and socially, the two regions have different histories attributable to their isolated geographic locations and separate access routes, from Indian as well as Tibetan sides. While Ladakh lay on the trade routes from Punjab to Kashmir, and beyond to Baltistan (Skardo), Kashgar, Yarqand, Khotan (Eastern Central Asia or Xinjiang), Gartok, Lhasa (in Tibet) with Leh acting as an important trade centre, Spiti valley was more isolated and split into eastern and western valleys, connected with Ladakh & Tibet on its eastern side & Kinnaur and Kulu on western side through high passes.
Ladakh (‘land of the passes’) is one of the most elevated (2,900 m to 5,900 m msl), and coldest regions (from -30°C to -70°C) of the earth. In consonance with the above description, its topography is barren and population sparse inhabited along the river banks of different valleys namely Indus, Nubra, Changthang, Zanskar and Suru. The mean annual precipitation is less than 50 mm, received mostly in the form of snowfall during winters. The region faces fast blowing winds 40-60 km/hr mainly in the afternoon hours. The soil moisture remains frozen during winters and with low relative humidity during the summer months. Despite such inhospitable conditions for survival, it is postulated that Ladakh has been occupied by humans since pre-historic times, as evidenced in the discovery of Lower Palaeolithic tools, Petroglyphs and other pre-historic art works that mark the beginning of man’s interaction with this cold desert landscape. Evidence of its continued occupation can be ascertained throughout history since then, which is closely associated with Tibet.
Spiti, locally pronounced as ‘Piti’, is known as the ‘middle country’ that lies between Tibet and India. Throughout history, it kept changing hands among the various kingdoms of Tibet, Ladakh, Kinnaur, Lahaul and Kullu. Subjugated to successive attacks and influences, rulers paid attributes to one another to keep peace in the region. The original inhabitants were pastoral nomads and worshipped the natural features such as trees, rivers, sun, moon – the Naga Cult was a cult of snake worship. The river Spiti originates at the base of the Kunzam range and flows eastward to join the Sutlej at Khab in Kinnaur. Spiti has its sub divisional headquarters at Kaza, has 113 villages, of which 81 are permanent settlements and 32 are temporary. The inhabitants are largely dependent on agriculture, wild resources and medicinal plants for their livelihood. About 118 species of the Medicinal and Aromatic Plants are known from the valley.
The annual average precipitation for Ladakh and Zanskar (J&K) is only around 100 mm while that of Spiti valley (H.P.) is 170 mm as against the annual national average of 1083 mm.
It is believed that people from Central Asia between Khazakstan and China came to populate these areas during the Bronze Age (circa fourth millenium BCE). They were pastoralists attracted to the valleys and high mountains for summer transhumance.
Buddhism was first introduced to Ladakh about 200 BCE during the reign of Maurya Emperor, Asoka the Great.
Gompas. Almost all settlements have Buddhist monasteries or Gompas with a trademark prayer flag fluttering on top. Built either on flat land or atop the neighbouring hillock depending upon local factors, these shrines are the centers of the people’s cultural life. Men depend on the social security system of the Gompas. The architecture is an interesting amalgamation of Indian and Tibetan influences, and monastic buildings are deeply Buddhist. Each settlement and its Gompa have their own unique associations and the culture.
The walls of the monasteries are decorated with frescos depicting Buddhist subjects drawn from Buddha’s life and his ideals. Walls are also embellished with thankas (paintings on cloth) displaying Jataka stories and other Buddhist themes. An exceptional thanka, the biggest in the world is ritually exhibited once in twelve years in Hemis monastery.
Chorten (‘receptacle of worship’ types of stupas), and Mani walls, long and thick platform-like row of stones, about 1 to 1.25 m high and 1.25 m wide, faced with carved stones inscribed with holy mantras.
Buddhist chanting. Buddhist lamas in monasteries and villages of Ladakh, Lahul-Spiti and Kinnaur chant sacred texts representing the spirit, philosophy and teachings of the Buddha.
Culture. The performing arts (traditional dance including mask dance, theater, contemporary plays, folk music), craft-making techniques (thangkas, carpet weaving, pashmina and marino shawls and local quilt weaving, prayer flags of cloth, gold, silver, bronze sculptures, copper objects, wooden furniture including manuscript shelves, stone, stucco and clay), customs (sacred paintings, agriculture farming, kitchen-gardening, culinary, giving birth, wedding, death et al), rituals and beliefs (medicinal ritual called Am-chi), language and literature (heroic accomplishments, folk stories, legends, classical and vernacular language, dialects, songs, poems, ancient scripts), etc. are parts of cultural legacy and well-maintained intangible heritage traditions of the property.
Ki Monastery (4116m), located 12 km north of Kaza above Ki village is the oldest and biggest monastery of the valley and serves the western population of Spiti. It houses beautiful scriptures and paintings of Buddha and other goddesses. Lamas practice dance, sing and play on pipes and horns.
ThangYug Gompa is located 13km above Kaza in KazaNallah and serving western part of central Spiti. It generally has a Lama from Tibet. There is a long plateau above this Gompa which leads to Shilla peak.
Kungri Gompa is situated in the Pin valley about 10 kms from Attargo and serves the population of Pin valley.
Dhanka Monastery is situated about 25 km east of Kaza and serves eastern part of central Spiti. Dhankar is a big village and capital of Spiti Kingdom. The Monastery has about 100 Lamas and Budhist scriptures in Bhoti language. The Statue of “Vairochana” (DhayanBudha) consisting of 4 complete figures seated back to back is the principal figure.
Tabo Monastery serving the eastern side, is tenth century and located 50 km from Kaza and near TholingGompa in Tibet. It has about 60 Lamas and a large collection of scriptures, wall paintings etc. KyilKhor or Mystic Mandala temple is placed on the backside of the main complex. It is home to some beautiful faded mandalas (frescos). DromtonLhakhang and Maitreya Chapel are the two famous chapels to the north of the temple complex.
Villages and Small Towns: Bashisht, Chitkul, Kibber, Nako, Pargpur, Nagger
SHIMLA*. The capital and the largest city of Himachal Pradesh. In 1864, Shimla was declared as the summer capital of British India. After independence, the city became the capital of Punjab and was later made the capital of Himachal Pradesh. It is the principal commercial, cultural and educational centre of the state.
Small hamlets were recorded prior to 1815 when British forces took control of the area. The climatic conditions attracted the British to establish the city in the dense forests of the Himalayas. As the summer capital, Shimla hosted many important political meetings including the Simla Accord of 1914 and the Simla Conference of 1945. After independence, the state of Himachal Pradesh came into being in 1948 as a result of the integration of 28 princely states. Even after independence, the city remained an important political centre, hosting the Simla Agreement of 1972.
Shimla is home to a number of buildings that are styled in the Tudorbethan and neo-Gothic architectures dating from the colonial era, as well as multiple temples and churches: Viceregal Lodge, the Christ Church, the Jakhu Temple, the Mall Road, the Ridge and Annadale. The Kalka–Shimla Railway line built by the British, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is also a major tourist attraction. Owing to its steep terrain, Shimla hosts the mountain biking race MTB Himalaya, which started in 2005 and is regarded as the biggest event of its kind in South Asia. Shimla also has the largest natural ice skating rink in South Asia. Apart from being a tourism centre, the city is also an educational hub with a number of colleges and research institutions.
Army Heritage Museum
Himachal State Museum
Christ Church Shimla
Lakkar Bazaar
Mall Road. Urban Legends
Hanuman Murti. Religious Monuments
Railways: Himalayan Express (Kalka-Shimla Railway), Kangra Valley Railway
Solan: Timber Trail Ropeway Station
Chicham Bridge, Kullu. Road Bridge
Museums
Dharamsala: Tibet Museum
Chamba: Bhuri Singh Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Kangra: Kangra Fort
Religious Temples
Key Monastery
Jawalamukhi: Jawala Ji Temple
Religious Monuments: Rewalsar: Statue of Padmasambhava
Indigenous Peoples: Kinnaura
Modern Architecture Buildings: Bhakra Dam
Zoos; Gopalpur (Himachal Pradesh): Gopalpur Zoo
World of Nature
Great Himalayan NP
Inderkilla NP
Khirganga NP
Pin Valley NP
Simbalbara NP
Waterfalls
Bhagsunag Waterfall
Jogini Falls
Caves: Tabo Caves
NOMAD MANIA India – Himachal Pradesh (Shimla, Manali, Nahan, Dharamsala)
World Heritage Sites
Great Himalayan National Park Conservation Area
Mountain Railways of India
Tentative WHS: Cold Desert Cultural Landscape of India (15/04/2015)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars
Himalayan Express (Kalka-Shimla Railway)
Kangra Valley Railway
Solan: Timber Trail Ropeway Station
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels: Kullu: Chicham Bridge
Museums
Dharamsala: Tibet Museum
Chamba: Bhuri Singh Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Kangra: Kangra Fort
Religious Temples
Key Monastery
Jawalamukhi: Jawala Ji Temple
Modern Architecture Buildings: Bhakra Dam
World of Nature
Great Himalayan NP
Inderkilla NP
Khirganga NP
Pin Valley NP
Simbalbara NP
Rivers: Yamuna River
Zoos; Gopalpur: Gopalpur Zoo
Waterfalls
Bhagsunag Waterfall
Jogini Falls
Caves: Tabo Caves
Ski Resorts
Manali Ski Resort
Tethys Ski Resort
Religious Monuments: Rewalsar: Statue of Padmasambhava
Indigenous Peoples: Kinnaura
Villages and Small Towns
BASHISHT
CHITKUL
KIBBER
NAKO
PARGPUR
NAGGER
SHIMLA*
Museums
Army Heritage Museum
Himachal State Museum
Religious Temples: Christ Church Shimla
Markets: Lakkar Bazaar
Urban Legends: Mall Road
Religious Monuments: Hanuman Murti