YEMEN – SOCOTRA

Socotra is an archipelago consisting mainly of one large island and three smaller islands in the Indian Ocean, an offshore territory of Yemen, near the “horn” of Somalia. Socotra is 95% of the landmass, 78 miles long and 28 miles north to south. It‘s mainly a limestone plateau with karst topography, surrounded by narrow coastal plains, with gorgeous white sand beaches, rising to the Hajhir Mountains. (1,500 metres).
It is currently governed by the UAE-backed Southern Transitional Council, a secessionist participant in Yemen’s ongoing civil war. While an integrated province of Yemen, Socotra has much in common with the East African islands.
Due to its remarkable biodiversity, with over a third of the local plant species found nowhere else, Socotra has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With over 40,000 inhabitants, though, it’s not just a nature reserve.
The island is new to tourism, so this is not a luxurious vacation. The best accommodation is camping on the beaches.
One can only go to Socrata by tour. They are needed for the visa and to do any travel around the island. They also book the difficult to arrange flight from Abu Dhabi.

Visa. All need a Yemeni visa. For Socrata Security Clearance Letter. If Mainland, also need a Ministry of the Interior Letter. Usually provided by the tour company. Only need to supply the bio page of your passport.
Money. Yemeni Rial. The very fluid black rate at 400-1600 to the US$. Bring US$
Flights 2 X/week. All flights must be booked directly with the airline, not online.
Get In
From 1. Abu Dhabi on Air Arabia once a week on Tuesdays at 09:30 or 2. Yemeni Airlines from Cairo, Jeddah, and Djibouti via Aden and Mukalla

Climate is a hot desert climate bordering on semi-desert. The mean temperature is 25 °C, but feels much hotter as it’s very humid. Northeast monsoon from October to December. No mosquitoes. In the wet season, it tends to rain at night. Online weather forecasts are inaccurate. Southwest monsoon season (from June to September) brings strong winds and high seas. referred to as the “Sikotro Sinh”. Make the island uncomfortable to walk around, and even some places are inaccessible.
When to go: The monsoon occurs in July till mid-August. Nature enthusiasts should go from early October to late April. Generally, wildlife and natural viewing is best from the end of January through May.
Hadibo, the Capital of Socotra. The north coast capital of Socotra, Hadibo, has a population of about 8,000. And is accessed by some of the few paved roads. There are heaps of rubbish. Rubble. Unfinished buildings. Colourful patterned wrought iron gates. Market stalls with scarlet canopies. And shops where the goods inside are beautifully and colourfully arranged on painted shelves.
The Summerland Hotel is the best hotel on the island – many would say it’s the only hotel on the island. It’s directly opposite the mosque. The rooms are basic, with wooden furniture and clean, There’s hot water, if you’re quick and Wi-Fi if you’re the only one using it. The manager is very sweet and tries to find me a better connection via his mobile.
Food. Only one restaurant. Fish, fried potatoes, fried chicken and goat, with lots of rice and beans. It’s tough for vegetarians. Hot sauce to give it some flavour. Good fruit juices. Goats climb up onto the chairs,

The women in Socotra are dressed in black abayas with full niqab. Shy, and very camera averse. The menfolk are the opposite. Most tourists dress fairly modestly though the women wear headscarves when in town.
The buildings are mainly stone, the older village houses are small and lumpy. More modern buildings are rendered. Saudi schools are typically ochre Arab style and UAE buildings are more traditional, but flat-faced stone, plastered with UAE flags.
There are goats everywhere. Millions of them, foraging in the rubbish. They threaten the precious Socotran fauna and hoover up any leftover food. They also enjoy paper apparently, stealing tissues when they can.
Guides
Friends of Yemen. friendsofyemen1@gmail.com. No trips after April
RJ Travel, YPT, Intrepid,

Penguin Travel.com. 180342 WA+45 89 88 36 84  +359 87 959 86 57 ☎ +359 2 400 10 50 / info@penguintravel.com https://apps.penguin.bg/epay/
US$2570 – US$1250 deposit + 1320 by 04/04. Includes all meals, flights from Abu Dhabi and visa. The last payment was made 4/4/2024.

Day 1 Tue May 14. Abu Dhabi –  Hadibo – Ayhaft canyon – Delisha sandy beach – Hadibo
Abu Dhabi to Socotra. Tourist tax payable in Hadibo upon arrival: 100 USD. Hotel, lunch
Ayhaft Canyon National Park. pools to swim.
Delisha Beach has white sands, crabs, swim sea or freshwater lagoon, climb a huge sand dune, and sunset. ON Hadibo
Day 2 Wed May 15. Hadibo – Homhil National Park – Arher Beach
Homhil endemic plants like the Dragon’s Blood Tree, Frankincense Tree and Desert Rose. Trails, a viewpoint with a natural swimming pool. Buy dragon blood resin and frankincense.
Arher – 
northeast, camp, beach, relax, swim, climb a huge 100+ metre dune, fishing village of Ras Irisseyl, the easternmost point of Socotra where the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea meet. “Crab city” – a local beach. ON Arher beach
Day 3 Thur May 16. Arher Beach – Hoq Cave – Dihamri Marine Protected Area
Hoq Cave in Terbak village. The cave is three kilometres long, with a water pool.
Dihammri. Northeast. Swim, snorkel and dive rich coral reef – parrotfish, moray eel, rays, turtles. ON Dihamri Marine Protected Area.
Day 4 Fri May 17. Dihamri Marine P.A. – Daburk Waterfall – Wadi Kalisan – Momi Plateau – Wadi Defarhu – Omak beach – Dagub Cave
South-east – waterfall at Daburk, swim.
Wadi of Kalisan, waterfalls and pools, hike 45 minutes, Bottle Trees, a local hermit living in a cave, goats.
Momi Plateau, Frankincense trees, cucumber trees, bottle trees and views
Defarhu Valley, sand dunes of Hayf and Zahek,
Omak beach, swim Dagub cave, ON Omak beach.
Day 5 Sat May 18. Dixam Plateau – Firhmin Forest – Wadi Derhur – Omak Beach – Zahek and Hayaf Sand Dunes – Dixam Plateau
Trek to the Firhmin Forest – the last woodland comprised of Dragon’s Blood trees. goat herder, the red resin of the tree, Derhur canyon rock formations, swim, sand dunes of Hayf and Zahek. ON Dixam
Day 6 Sun May 19. Dixam Plateau – Detwah Lagoon
Dragon’s Blood Tree nursery
Dixam Middle and High School, teachers and students,
Detwah Lagoon –
northwest, a marine protected area, swim. Sea birds and marine wildlife in the lagoon. Abdullah the Caveman. ON Detwah Beach.
Day 7 Mon May 20. Detwah Lagoon – Sha’ab Beach – Qualansiah Village – Hadibo
Qalansiah – fishing boats to see spinner dolphins and snorkel Sha’ab beach
ON hotel in Hadibo.
Day 8 Tue May 21. Departure Abu Dhabi (AUH)

GET AROUND
There is a public bus from the airport to Hadibo and from Hadibo to Qalansia. Besides these two buses, there is no public transport, but a car rental with a driver is available. There is a lot of walking and hiking along with camelback rides available. 4WD is necessary on this rough and arid terrain. The drivers are also very good-natured cooks, guides, camp attendants, furniture arrangers and general factotums.

SEE
Socotra is considered the jewel of biodiversity in the Arabian Sea. Although the region is small, it is characterized by unique land and marine biodiversity.
Socotra, the Most Alien-looking Place on Earth. Socotra is a naturalists’ haven, the Arabian Sea’s answer to the Galapagos. A third of the flora species here are endemic, almost 700. The coast road has bottle trees emerging from rocks. The animals and plants that remain represent a degraded fraction of what once existed.’ The first century A.D. Periplus of the Erythraean Sea reported crocodiles and large lizards. Until a few centuries ago, there were rivers and wetlands on the island. Now, the long geological isolation of the Socotra archipelago and its fierce heat and drought have combined to create a ‘unique and spectacular endemic flora’, with most of the island UNESCO recognized.
The endemic fauna, includes six species of birds, such as the Socotra starling and sunbird. There’s only one endemic mammal (a bat), but 31 endemic reptiles (skinks, legless lizards, and one species of chameleon. The plants are endangered by non-native goats and the birds by non-native feral cats.
The interior of the island is dominated by the beautiful and green Hagghier mountains and limestone plateau. While on the outer coastline, breathtaking natural beaches have pure white sand dunes and palm trees. Socotra Island is very rich and is home to many rare spectacular species of reefs, fish, birds, plants, and trees which are not found anywhere else in the world. The limestone plateau and the Hagghier Mountains are the richest areas for endemic plant species, but endemics are found throughout the island in every type of vegetation. One of the most famous plants is the dragon’s blood tree “dracaena cinnabara” which exists only on Socotra and nowhere else on the Earth. The tree got its name because if any damage is made to the bark then a dark red liquid oozes out.
There is also the Desert Rose (adenium obesium) which looks like a blooming elephant leg. Also found in Socotra’s landscape is the ever-strange and extremely rare Cucumber Tree. In addition, there are over 120 species of birds and about 190 species of butterflies. There is so much beauty all around the island, it is difficult to not appreciate the magnificent scenery and wildlife.

DO
Camp:
With a bit of water for washing, a good meal and warm sleeping surrounded by virgin nature, camping on the beaches will provide a very special break from the everyday routine in civilization!
Socotra Adventure Tours can carry all the camping equipment and cooking gear or you can opt for any one of the several campsites like Dihamri and Homhil.
Hiking: The Scant, Tinnera, Firmihin, Dersmotin regions, are the most popular destinations for trekkers. Hiking is for everyone even for those who are less athletic. However, for more difficult and high-altitude trails, it is recommended to be accompanied by a local guide.
Camelback ride: It is an opportunity to get to know and enjoy the spectacular scenery and relax in the rhythm of ancient times. This is more of a less active adventure. The camelback rides provide a more relaxing ride over plateaus and colorful panoramas and mountains.
Surf: Socotra has excellent conditions for surfing. The best time to come for this activity is during the monsoon season from June up to late August. In July the wind speed can reach up to 60 mph and you have to be aware of such conditions. Since the winds can be very rough it is recommended that only experienced surfers participate.
Scuba dive/ Snorkel: Dive into the tropical warm weather filled with coral reefs. Enjoy swimming among the hundreds of species of fish and marine life such as barracudas, monkfish, dolphins, rays and even mantas. Diving for all ages and levels.
Bird-watching tours: This is for anyone who has an interest in birds. Excellent way to view nature and the highly diverse bird population while avoiding harming any wildlife.
Local boat safaris and fishing: Take one of the organized tours and be taken to incomparable destinations. The trip to Shouab Beach is a half-day tour to discover the beauty of this remarkable destination. With the clear water and white sands you can snorkel and relax. While driving the boat, dolphins can be seen swimming right next to the boat.
Also, go on a fascinating fishing experience with some of the locals.
Volcanic caves: Explore the Hoq Cave with its overwhelming beauty and variety of crystal decorations.
Beaches Shouab, Qalansia, Arher, Noget, Amaq among others
Wadis and freshwater pools Homhil, Wadi Dirhir and others

HISTORY 
In ancient times, Yemen was the home of the Sabaeans, a trading state that included parts of modern-day Ethiopia and Eritrea. Islam spread quickly in the seventh century, but only on the mainland. In 1507 the Portuguese fleet commanded by Tristão da Cunha, with Afonso de Albuquerque, landed on Socotra, captured some land and attempted to set up a base on the strategic route to India. But they abandoned the attempt four years later for lack of a decent harbour and infertile land.
The Mahra sultans took control of Socotra in 1511, and the inhabitants were (mostly) converted to Islam during their rule. In 1834, the East India Company stationed a garrison on Socotra, and flirted with the idea of buying the island. But the sultan, to their astonishment refused and they encountered, in any case, the same problems that had been faced by the Portuguese. They centred their efforts on Aden instead.
Yemen was divided between the Ottoman and British empires in the 1800s and in 1876, in exchange for a payment of 3,000 thalers and a yearly subsidy, the Sultan of Socotra was persuaded to pledge ‘himself, his heirs and successors, never to cede, to sell, to mortgage, or otherwise give for occupation, save to the British Government, the Island of Socotra or any of its dependencies.”
The Zaydi Mutawakkilite Kingdom of Yemen was established after World War I, leading to the creation of the Yemen Arab Republic in 1962. However, South Yemen, including Socotra, remained under British control, as the Aden Protectorate until 1967. It then became, first, an independent state with the Mahra sultanate abolished. Next, as a Marxist-Leninist state, the South Yemeni government allowed the Soviet Navy to use the Socotra archipelago as a supply and supporting base for its operations in the Indian Ocean from 1971 to the late 1980s. (Lines of Russian tanks rust along the shores as a testament to these times). Eventually, the two Yemeni states united to form the modern Republic of Yemen in 1990.
Turmoil in Yemen. Since 2011, Yemen has been in a state of civil war and violence, first instigated by street protests against poverty and unemployment and now a focus for Middle Eastern geopolitics. Iran backs the Houthi rebels and the Saudi Arabians have intervened, aiming to restore President Hadi’s government. Consequently, Yemen is currently thought to be the country with the most people in need of humanitarian aid, about 24 million people, or 85% of its population. As a result of the civil war, the island of Socotra became economically isolated. Fuel prices especially, spiked, causing residents to turn to wood for heat, exacerbating deforestation even further.

ACCOMMODATION
There are four hotels in Hadibo: Taj Socotra Hotel, Hafijj Hotel, Socotra Hotel, and Summerland Hotel. These hotels may not be the most luxurious, but they do provide air-conditioning, televisions, and refrigerators in all of the rooms. Most of the rooms at these hotels have their bathroom, but there are a few rooms at the Hafijj Hotel and Socotra Hotel that must share bathrooms. There is a restaurant in each of the hotels with simple yet delicious cuisine. Considering Socotra is a fairly new eco-tourism destination, their facilities are decent. In addition, there is another hotel at the airport and several guest houses around the island.
The most popular lodging is camping on the beaches. Several campsites allow tourists to barbeque on the beach with beautiful mountain views in the background. Tourists can choose to purchase camping tour packages which include a driver or guide that will show tourists around the beaches as well as provide meals during their stay. It is a fantastic way to enjoy the beauty and wildlife of the island.
Hotel Bahamid, +966 59 529 2959, on the waterfront in Hadibu
Taj Socotra Tourist Hotel, +967 5 660 626, on the western edge of Hadibu

STAY SAFE
Malaria is not common, but malaria prophylaxis is recommended. Cholera is not on the island at all.
The hospitals offer less than adequate service, but pharmacies are located around Hadibo.
Most Western governments advise against all travel to Yemen, including Socotra.
Sheikh Khalifa Hospital, Hadibu.

 

 

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I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am "home", are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking. I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.
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