Florence Jan 26-31.
I took the Flixbus from Rome to Florence (10€ – this bus line offers unbelievably cheap bus fares on new, comfortable buses with wi-fi). But after arriving, it took me over 3 hours to get to my BnB. The bus stops had changed because of road construction and I waited an hour for the bus that never came. Everyone at the stop said that my bus, 1A came here “it’s Italy, nothing runs on time.” That is not true, the buses keep to the published schedule but during the traffic jams, may be late.
Allessandro was a wonderful host for my 5 days in Florence. The new part of his house dates to the 16th century and has 8m ceilings with massive wood roof beams. The old part of the house (used to be a convent) dates to the 14th and 13th century.
Again I had a long list of Nomad Mania sights to see in my 4 days in Florence. I walked from the BnB to the center in about 45 minutes, both there and back every day.
FLORENCE (pop 390,000)
Cradle of the Renaissance, and home to Machiavelli, Michelangelo and the Medici, Florence (Firenze) is one of the ‘must-see’ cities of the world. With world-class art, tourists flock here to the capital of Tuscany.
History. The Etruscans were here in 300 BC but Julius Caesar founded Florencia in 59BC. The plague in 1348 halved the city’s population.
After a revolt by the wool workers in 1378, the Medici family – bankers to the pope – took a major role in city government. In 1434, Cosimo the Elder became Florence’s de facto ruler. With an eye for talent, artists like Donatello and Lippo flourished. The rule of his grandson, Lorenzo the Magnificent (1469-92), ushered in the Italian Renaissance, and Florence became Italy’s cultural capital of art, music and poetry. Not long before his death, the Medici bank failed and the family was driven out of Florence.
The Spanish under Emperor Charles V and Cosimo I, one of the last truly great Medici rulers took charge, defeated Siena and Cosimo became the grand duke of Tuscany. It was eventually incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy in 1860.
WWII severely damaged the city and floods ravaged the city in 1966. Since 1997, the world-class Uffizi Gallery has invested millions of Euros.
The Firenze Card (72€) is valid for 72 hours and gives entrance to some of the museums, villas and gardens in Florence, as well as free public transport and free wi-fi across the city. The biggest advantage is avoiding the long queues, but you need to visit a lot of museums to justify the cost.
There are few cost reductions for over 65 year olds.
Day1. (Jan 27)
Stibbert Museum*. If this were not on Nomad Mania, I would have missed this not-to-be-missed museum. It is well north of the city center next to Robert Baden Powell (the founder of the boy scouts) Park. Frederic Stibbert (1838-1906), the son of an English father and Italian mother was born in Florence. He inherited the fortune of his grandfather Giles who worked for the East India Company in West Bengal and started collecting in a megalomaniac manner and set up his museum. It was left to the city of Florence and opened to the public in 1908.
It is especially noteworthy for its famous armory collection: European, Middle Eastern and Japanese pieces from the 15th to the 19th centuries. There are 14 mounted horses with complete armor, thousands of swords and guns. But there are also paintings, sculptures, china and a little bit of everything in the exhibits. The tour takes you through his private residence decorated in an over-the-top way.
Tours are offered on the hour depending on language – they are not a tour but are accompanied by a minder who does give some information.
Basilica of San Lorenzo. Consecrated in 393AD, the Medici reconstructed it for the third time in 1429, making it the first Renaissance building in history. The colour is plain with white walls and grey stone for the columns and detail. The chapels each have a masterpiece painting: Lippi’s The Annunciation and Fiorentino’s Marriage of the Virgin are standouts.
Donatello two pulpits sit atop marble pedestals covered in bronze panels. The Old Sacristy has Donatella painted terracotta statues and bronze door and a gold and lapis lazuli frescoed dome. There are many Medici family tombs. A museum is also included in the price.
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi*. This palace is the Medici townhouse built in 1444. It is not so interesting. The upstairs chapel is covered in wonderful frescoes.
Day 2. On my way to cross to the south side of the Arno River to see the sites there, I went into a few churches.
Chiesa e San Gaetano.
Chiesa di Santa Trinita. Has some great frescoes.
Museo di Zoology and Natural History*. I only went here as it is on the Nomad Mania list and regretted it. The mineral display is fascinating but the hundreds of stuffed animals in glass display cases was ugh. Access to the observatory is restricted.
Palazzo Pitti. This massive palace was the residence of the Medicis. It has a silver collection, a few art galleries rooms recreating life in Renaissance times. I didn’t go in but crossed trough to the Bobili Gardens. Walk to the top of the gardens to get great views. Exit here next to the Belvedere Fort for more panoramic views of the city.
After descending all the way down the Arno River, cross the Ponte Vecchio. Dating to 1345, this bridge was the only Florentine bridge to survive destruction at the hands of retreating Germans forces in 1944. The first documented stone bridge, at the narrowest point along the entire length of the Arno, dates from 972. The bridge is thronged with tourists and is unusual for all the 2 story houses that cover its sides. They house expensive jewelry stores and restrict views of the river.
Museo Galileo. On the river to the east of the bridge, is this state-of-the-art science museum. I didn’t go in but had a good look at the lovely huge sundial on the sidewalk outside.
Galleria dell’Accademia*. This gallery holds one of the renaissance’s iconic masterpieces, Michelangelo’s David, the world’s most famous statue.
Basilca di Santa Croce. It has a magnificent facade of green and white coloured marble and the austere interior has the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo and Ghiberti and frescos by Giotto, the real highlight. I didn’t go in here (it was closed when I walked over here) but was highly recommended by my brother.
Piazza della Signoria and around. This large square has been the hub of local life since the 13th century. On the south side is an open-air gallery of Renaissance sculptures: Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women (1583), Cellini’s bronze Perseus (1554) and a host of other statues.
It was here that Savonarola, a puritanical Dominican monk burned the city’s wealth – books, paintings, musical instruments, mirrors and fine clothes on the “Bonfire of the Vanities” in 1497 and was declared a heretic, hung in chains and burned in 1498.
A copy of Michelangelo’s David stands outside the Palazzo Vecchio, a Medici fortress palace with a 94m-high tower (418-steps). It has an impressive 53x22m salon with frescoes painted floor to ceiling, private apartments a room of 16th century maps.
The Neptune Fountain (being restored and covered up when I was there), but it looked amazing.
The equestrian statue of Cosimo I is in the center of the square.
On the east side is the Gucci Museum. Go through the retail store (who buys this stuff, often very gaudy and very expensive) to see the museum.
Day 3.
THE DUOMO. This is the cathedral of Florence and the city’s most iconic landmark. Began in 1296, it wasn’t finished till 1436. The outside is gorgeous in white and green marble with red highlights. The present façade replaced the 16th century façade now completely restored in the museum. The 155m long by 90m wide interior is sparsely decorated as most of its artistic treasures have been removed and several are in the museum. The number 8, for the 7 days of the week plus the 8th day for judgment and resurrection repeats frequently in the structure, but best seen in the octagonal Baptistery and the top of the dome. It is open on Mondays when most museums in the city are closed. Only the back third can be visited – this is free and the 15€ entrance covers 5 sites:
Santa Reparata. These are the archaeological digs under the cathedral of the earlier cathedral. It has some great mosaics dating from Roman times and tombstones.
Museum. It has the works of many masters and the complete reconstruction of the 1587 façade.
Bell Tower. The only original part of the complex completed in 1359, it has four tiers of bas-reliefs on the outside.
Dome. 91m high by 45.5m wide, it was built in an octagonal shape of inner and outer domes resting on the drum of the cathedral rather than the roof itself, it could be built from the ground up without needing a wooden support frame and used 4 million bricks laid in horizontal courses in a herringbone pattern. Climb the 463 claustrophobic steps constructed between the two shells of the dome to the top under the Lantern. One rest is provided on the balustrade just under the painted dome of The Final Judgment, an amazing fresco dated from 1572-9. The final steps go straight up under the curve of the dome. The views from the top are an unforgettable 360° panorama of one of Europe’s most beautiful cities – I probably spent an hour up here.
This requires a separate reservation obtained from a machine in the ticket office. The entrance is separate from he rest of the church and you should arrive with the receipt 15 minutes before your time.
Baptistery. Dating to the 4-5th centuries, this is not to be missed for the amazing mosaics that cover the inside of the dome. The bronze doors and art are also good.
Day 4.
THE UFFIZI. This museum is home to the world’s greatest collection of Italian Renaissance art and Florence’s premier art gallery. The collection was bequeathed to the city by the Medici family in 1743 and follows a chronological order spanning the gamut of art history from ancient Greek sculpture to 18th century Venetian paintings. Some of the highlights are the Botticelli room and La Tribuna, an octagonal treasure trove of Medici art with 6000 mother-of-pearl shells on the domed ceiling.
Visits are best kept to 3-4 hours to avoid gallery fatigue. The views from the roof-top garden are memorable.
After an exhausting 4 hours, I had a sandwich at the famous All’Antico Vinalo. Join the crowd waiting in line for the 5€ well-stuffed focaccia to take away. I walked home and had a nap to get ready for my flight to Leipzig in the morning.
I flew from Florence via Dusseldorf to Leipzig. My friend Christian met me. I met Christian at Petra 2 years ago. He has been a life-saver and for me, it shows the value of talking to people you meet traveling. It is not possible to register and buy insurance for a vehicle without an address and Christian offered me the use of his address.
NOMAD MANIA Italy – Tuscany (Florence, Pisa, Siena, Prato, Livorno, Arezzo)
World Heritage Sites:
Historic Center of Florence
Historic Center of San Gimignano
Historic Center of Siena
Historic Center of the City of Pienza
Medici Villas and Gardens in Tuscany
Piazza del Duomo, Pisa
XVal d’Orcia
Tentative WHS:
Great Spas of Europe (07/01/2014)
Historic Center of Lucca
XPelagos: The Cetacean Sanctuary (01/06/2006)
The Marble Basin of Carrara (01/06/2006)
Volterra: Historical City and Cultural Landscape (01/06/2006)
XTerme di Saturnia
Tuscany Vineyards
XL:
XCà Raffaello (Tuscany exclave in Emilia-Romagna)
XMonte Argentario
Islands:
Pontine islands
ELBA
Sights: Elba Beaches
Island: Elba and Tuscan Archipelago
European Cities
AREZZO
GROSSETO
Museums: National Museum of Medieval and Modern Art
FLORENCE/PRATO
World Heritage Sites: Historic Center of Florence
Airports: Florence (FLR)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Florence Santa Maria Station, Florence Trams
Museums:
Uffizi Gallery
Academy Gallery
Museum of San Marco
Bargello National Museum
Museum of Zoology and Natural History
Stibbert Museum
Prato: Textile Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts:
Forte di Belvedere
Palazzo Davanzati
Palazzo del Bargello
Palazzo Medici Riccardi
Pitti Palace
Palazzo Vecchio
Prato: Palazzo Pretorio
Religious Temples:
Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Flower
Duomo Santa Maria, Pisa
Florence Charterhouse
The Dark Side
Isola del Giglio: Costa Concordia Shipwreck
The Dark Side: Prato: Museum and Documentation Center of Deportation and Resistance
Botanical Gardens: Giardino dei Semplici
Markets: Central Market
Pedestrian Bridges: Ponte Vecchio Bridge
Bizzarium: Pescia Fiorentina: Tarot Garden
LIVORNO
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Old Fortress
Theme Parks: Livorno: Cavallino Matto
LUCCA
Tentative WHS: Historic Center of Lucca
Botanical Gardens: Lucca Botanical Garden
PISA
World Heritage Sites: Piazza del Duomo, Pisa
Airports: Pisa (PSA)
Botanical Gardens: Botanical garden of Pisa
PISTOIA
Sights: Pistoia Old Town
Zoos: Pistoia Zoo
ELBA
Sights: Elba Beaches
Island: Elba and Tuscan Archipelago
SIENNA
World Heritage Sites: Historic Center of Siena
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Nature Train (Siena-Val d’Orcia)
Religious Temples: Duomo
Villages and Small Towns:
Montepulciano
Monteriggioni
Radda in Chianti
Saint Gimignano
Sovana
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars:
AGV Italo Routes
Religious Temples:
Montalcino: Abbey of Sant’Antimo
Territorial Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore
Vallombrosa Abbey
Festivals:
Arezzo Wave
Festival Del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
Puccini Festival
Florence: Tuscan Sun Festival
Foiano della Chiana: Carnival of Foiano della Chiana
Il Gioco del Ponte, Pisa
Siena: Palio of Siena
Viareggio: Carnival of Viareggio
Experiences:
Sweet Far Nothing
Mid-August
Taste Pasta and Beans
Windmills:
Bibbona: Bibbona Windmill ruins
Orbetello Lagoon: Spanish Molino
The Dark Side: Isola del Giglio: Costa Concordia Shipwreck
Open-Air Museums: San Marcello Pistoiese: Ecomuseum of the Pistoia mountains