PHILIPPINES – LUZON – CENTRAL (Batangas, Tarlac, San Carlos)
Day 11 Sun Dec 28
Car rental Avis. Cost 22,000 including a 10,000P deposit that is returned minus tolls.
Grab to the Avis Car Garage out in SE Manila (454P+118 toll). They didn’t have the subcompact I reserved and was required to get a more expensive car. Phone holders are illegal in the Philippines because “they obstruct vision”. It was good that I had my own.
My plan was to drive south through Luzon, and go to the closest town, Santa Elena to claim it as a NM region. I should have known there would be problems when it took 3 ½ hours to drive 128 km.
I saw several NM sites included in the NM region, Greater Manila. This was the first in Luzon Central.
Minor Basilica of St Michael the Archangel, Tayabas. Originally built in 1585, it was destroyed twice and rebuilt in the 1800s, but it still looks very old. The single-nave church is one of the longest aisles in the Philippines. At the cross is a dome with medallions and two side altars.
I then made a bad decision, as mentioned above. 3 ½ hours to go 128 km should have warned me not to drive the Pan-Philippine Highway. The only route to southern Luzon, it is full of trucks and buses. Add all the local traffic (jeepneys, motorcycle taxis and tuk-tuks that are nonstop) and then the road was horrible. Alternating between 4-lane and two-lane, there are recurring patches of terrible potholes that all the vehicles weave around.
I hit two, and the second destroyed my left front tire. I couldn’t loosen the nuts and was thankfully helped by a young guy who used to work in a tire shop. We changed the tire, and I drove into Gumac looking for a tire store. Most were either closed or vulcanizing shops, and I realized it was unlikely that anyone would have the low-profile tire required. I decided to get a hotel for the night, not continue south, and return to Lucena in the morning to try to get a new tire.
ON NOA Hotel and Resort. 1500P for 12 hours (I checked in at 17:30 and had to leave at 05:30 as you could only stay 12 hours, irrelevant of the time!! This suited me fine as I wanted to leave very early to avoid all the local traffic. The lady who owned the hotel lived in Edmonton for 35 years, working as a nanny. We talked a lot in the morning about her experiences. Her two daughters and husband still live there. She built the hotel as employment for her relatives, but none work there. It is for sale.
I stopped at the Angelina Hotel first, but the 3000P room wasn’t available till 8 pm!! So the only option was the 3500P room, but they thankfully didn’t take credit cards!
Day 12 Mon Dec 29
I was up at 4 am and left the hotel at 5. The window fog couldn’t clear, the windshield wipers left streaks, so I waited 15 minutes for the windows to clear. I needed to drive slowly to avoid all potholes as I couldn’t afford to destroy another tire.
I arrived in Lucena at 7 and waited till 8 when the Toyota dealer opened to replace the tire. They didn’t have the tire, but a shop in town did – with a choice of 4 brands in the size! I chose the cheapest for 3500P, a pretty good deal. They replaced the tire and put it on the right front, as this was the worst of all the bad tires.
Malabrigo Lighthouse. GM gave me 3 ½ hours to drive 128 km. Some roads were great, most were 2-lane narrow, one bit atrocious, and the end was fun driving on 2 lanes with lots of curves to cut. I took 2’ 10 driving like a madman.
It was not worth the drive. The LH was built in 1891, and the outbuildings surrounding it in 1897. The LH is a white, round brick tower sitting on a red base. The views were ok but obscured by long weeds.
Mother of All Asia Tower of Peace. This is an international pilgrimage centre, rather out of the way. A gigantic Virgin Mary sitting on a 4-story base. There are seven levels of windows, and a lighthouse-like glass crown with a cross on top. She is holding a “plate” with an observation deck. Her heart is just above that. I didn’t go into the park, but the entrance fees are: Entrance 50P, View deck 150P, Glass walk 300P and Mirror deck 300P.
The drive here was pretty along the ocean (but ruined by a wall being constructed for wave control and two factories, one a LNG plant). There were lots of flowering trees and cute houses along the road, but no resorts or hotel
Tibag-Sabang Bridge, Baler. Motorists who regularly travel the Ibaan-Batangas City Road may not find anything remarkable about the Sabang Bridge along the way, but like every structure, it has a story. In the late nineteenth century, the most traversed road that ran through Ibaan was the one that led to the municipality of San Jose. This meant that travellers in horse-drawn carriages going from Ibaan to the then-pueblo or town of Batangas had to drive northwest to San Jose before turning south along the main road to reach their destination. Before the bridge’s construction, all material moved over the road was transshipped onto bamboo rafts at Sabang and dragged down a shallow stream by carabaos. This was necessary due to the impossible grades.
The bridge was part of the San Juan de Bocboc to Batangas Road Project and completed in the first quarter of 1914. Its construction posed many challenges. It was built to span a ravine that was 31 meters above low water on one bank and 41.5 on the other. In other words, from one end of the bridge, there was a plunge of 102 feet and 136 feet at the other.
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| The Sabang Bridge in 1941. |
The road spanned over the bridge, totalling 53.6 meters (176 feet), sitting atop two concrete arches. The remarkable thing about the Sabang Bridge was that it was built with a “daring” combination of adobe masonry (sunbaked bricks) abutments or arch supports with modern reinforced-concrete arch spans. The use of concrete made it more resistant to earthquakes, and no adobe foundations were laid down in areas that were expected to be immersed in water for long periods.
It was also completely built by hand. The Sabang Bridge is a handmade structure, handmade in the sense that no equipment outside of picks, shovels, old petroleum cans, rope, and wooden blocks was used in its construction. No power outside that exerted by the workmen, assisted by one or two carabaos, was used in its erection. The adobe was quarried by hand-cutting tools, and it was carried to its position by men walking on inclined platforms. Sand, gravel, steel, and even the water were carried to the “topside” by hand. Cement was hoisted by block and tackle on the business end of which worked a carabao. The concrete was mixed by hand and run into place in wheelbarrows. The adobe stone, sand, and gravel were procured at the bridge site; all other materials were hauled about 7 kilometres up a shallow stream on bamboo rafts dragged by carabaos. Due to the isolated position of the structure and due principally to the archaic construction methods used by the contractors, it has taken something over one year to build.
Sabang Bridge was blown up in World War II and subsequently rebuilt in 1952 by the United States Rehabilitation Administration.
Archdiocesan Shrine & Parish of St James the Greater, Iban. Dating from 1784 and destroyed by fire in 1867, this church was built in 1869. It is a lovely single-nave church with great frescoes above the altar and high on the walls. Mass was on but there were few people.
Metropolitan Cathedral of San Sebastian, Lipa. Painted yellow, it is a long, narrow single-nave church with impressive ceiling paintings.
TAAL
Minor Basilica and Parish of St Martin of Tours. With a majestic five-segment façade, it features three large naves and is very wide, boasting a huge cross under the dome. Lots of faux medallions on the ceiling and walls, but a wonderful fresco of Jesus coming out of the clouds on the dome.
Galleria Taal. Old photographs of the Philippines and many vintage cameras. Can have a guide. 130P
THE HISTORIC TOWNS and LANDSCAPE of TAAL VOLCANO and its CALDERA LAKE Tentative WHS
Taal is an active volcano within a massive caldera, with at least 38 recorded eruptions in the last 450 years. Its most recent major eruption in 2020 prompted evacuations in its surrounding communities while spreading ash across neighbouring provinces and regions, including Metro Manila. This eruption had a significant impact on transportation, government, business, and education activities, affecting tens of millions of individuals.
The caldera is believed to have formed during a series of prehistoric eruptions between 140,000 and 5,380 BCE. It presently holds Taal Lake, a picturesque expanse of water 100-150 meters deep, spanning approximately 265 square kilometres. Within Taal Lake lies Volcano Island, which covers an area of about 24 square kilometres. Volcano Island cradles Crater Lake, which is 1.2 square kilometres and contains a prominent rock formation known as Vulcan Point.
This interplay of land and water – as a product of a 1911 eruption – has led to the description of Taal Volcano as “an island within a lake, within an island within a lake, within an island” respectively referring to Vulcan Point, Crater Lake, Volcano Island, Taal Lake, and finally, the island of Luzon itself, in the Philippines.
Volcano Island is divided between the towns of Talisay and San Nicolas, and together with the Cities of Lipa, Tagaytay, and Tanauan, Municipalities of Agoncillo, Alitagtag, Balete, Cuenca, Laurel, Lemery, Malvar, Mataas na Kahoy, San Jose, Santa Teresita, and Taal, collectively comprise the Taal Volcano Protected Landscape (TVPL) communities in which over 1 million people reside. There are 52 migratory marine faunal species present, two of which are endemic.
The area is a cultural landscape. It has been settled for centuries, and its communities have been well-connected to the precolonial trading routes of Southeast and East Asia. The volcanic activity of Taal played a significant role in the ecological dynamics of the region, contributing to the fertility of the soil. During the Spanish colonial period, the fertile soils of the region have supported diverse agricultural activities, including the cultivation of crops such as rice, corn, sugar, cacao, and coffee, and the development of many cultural products anchored on the local environment, agricultural production, and distinct to the region, such as the cultivation of specific varieties of coffee, or the development of weaving and embroidery traditions with local fabrics. The religious folk dance Subli captures the deep faith of the community amidst the volcanic hazards.
Many heritage structures date to the Spanish colonial period, such as the houses of prominent families in the población (town center) of the Municipality of Taal, the cities of Talisay and Tanauan, other lakeside towns, and what is recognized as the largest Catholic church in Asia, the Minor Basilica of Saint Martin of Tours.
The location of the Municipality of Taal itself reflects its dynamic relationship with the volcano. Previously located along the shores of Taal Lake itself (and in the current location of the Municipality of San Nicolas), it moved to its present location in response to a massive eruption in 1754.
The eruption of 1754 also significantly shaped the ecology of the landscape of Taal Volcano. Taal Lake was, prior to the eruption, a saltwater environment, being connected to Balayan Bay through the Pansipit River, which was then a navigable channel. The eruption cut off this connection to the sea, and the Lake and its ecology evolved into a freshwater environment. Two species in particular reflect an evolutionary adaptation to a changing environment – Hydrophis semperi, a rare species of sea snake, and Sardinella tawilis, a species of sardines, are both originally saltwater species that have now evolved, and are only found, in the freshwater environment of Taal Lake.
Fantasy World. Abandoned amusement park with a medieval theme featuring castle structures and a rope bridge. In the last review 7 years ago, the rooms were basically empty. The gate is closed, and the park can only be seen from across the valley.
Caleruega Chapel of Transfiguration. Take a rough gravel road along the ridge line of the caldera to this chapel with two brick towers on each end of an A-frame-shaped church. Has three great stained glass windows behind the altar. Nice gardens and views, especially down to the west into a gorge. 30P per person, 50P to park.
Puzzle Mansion. A huge collection of jigsaw puzzles, including some made by the owner. They are all displayed in frames on the walls. Being a puzzle lover, this was a great place. It didn’t have my favourite brand, Springbok, but many wonderful puzzles. In the Guinness Book of World Records. 100P
For my last two nights in the Philippines, I stayed at Red Roofz Hotel, and the walls were covered with jigsaw puzzles, collected by the owner. I couldn’t determine if he was the same guy who owned Puzzle Mansion. Jigsaw puzzles are obviously big business in this country.
Museo Orlino. Wonderful glass of glass sculpture Ramon Orlina. Some great pieces, but I have seen much better (The Pittsburgh Glass Museum). Inside and outside exhibits. 100P
ON Kikay’s BnB, which was the cheapest place in the tourist mecca of Tagaytay City. 31CA$. A bed with a hard foam mattress, no sink, the shower didn’t work, the toilet didn’t flush, the one electrical plug didn’t work (so I couldn’t have coffee), but I slept ok and left early at 6:45, as soon as I could bet out of there.
Day 12 Tue Dec 30
The Starbucks at 7:15 had over 100 people waiting in line. Needless to say, I didn’t wait around and went to a Starbucks 19 km away with no one in line.
GO TO MANILA
BAROQUE CHURCHES OF THE PHILIPPINES WHS
These four churches, the first of which was built by the Spanish between the late 16th and the 18th centuries, are two at the northern island of Luzon, one at the heart of Intramuros, Manila, and the other in the central Visayas island of Iloilo. Their unique architectural style is a reinterpretation of European Baroque by Chinese and Philippine craftsmen.
The common and specific attributes of the churches are their squat, monumental and massive appearance, which illustrates a fortress/protective-like character in response to pirates, marauders and to the geologic conditions of a country that is prone to seismic activities. The churches are made either of stone (tuff or coralline limestone), or brick, and consolidated with lime. They display specific features such as retablos (altars) of high Baroque style – (particularly seen in San Agustin Church, Intramuros), in the volutes of contrafuertes (buttresses) and in the pyramidal finials of wall facades – (particularly seen in Paoay Church), in wall buttresses separating criptocollateral chapels –(particularly seen in San Agustin Church, Intramuros) and in the iconography of the ornately decorated naïf/folk pediment expressing the local understanding of the life of Christ and demonstrated by the use of local elements (papaya, coconut and palm tree reliefs), and the depiction of Catholic Patron Saints (St. Christopher) dressed in local and traditional clothing (particularly seen in the Miagao Church). The fusion of styles is also seen in the construction of bell towers that are either attached to the main church structure (particularly seen in San Agustin, Intramuros and in Miagao churches) or detached from the main church (particularly seen in Paoay and Sta Maria churches) and lastly, in ceiling paintings in the tromp l’oeil style (particularly seen in San Agustin Church, Intramuros). The Baroque churches reflect excellent site planning principles following the Ley de las Indias (Laws of the Indies) enacted by Philip II in 1563 for all newly-discovered settlements within Spanish colonial territories.
The Ilocano churches, Paoay and Santa Maria, are best-known as outstanding examples of Earthquake Baroque, characterized by thick stone walls, greater width in comparison to height, belfries separate from the body of the church, and of course, the iconic buttresses, which all help the churches to withstand the constant earthquakes in the region.
Miag-ao Church in Iloilo is considered the best example of Fortress Baroque, a style developed as a defense against Moro (Philippine Muslim) pirates that used to raid the Visayan islands during the colonial period.
Lastly, the San Agustin Church in Manila is the oldest stone church in the Philippines and the only building left standing in Intramuros (the central walled city of Manila, which was home to 7 churches) after the bombings of Manila in World War 2. Each of the churches is known for a very special characteristic: Paoay for its huge embellished buttresses and Javanese-influenced facade, Santa Maria for its location on a hill above the town, Miag-ao for its intricate bas-reliefs on its facade with designs of local culture and nature, and San Agustin for its gloriously decorated interior and adjacent monastery.
The 2 Earthquake Baroque churches and the Fortress Baroque church are notable for their exterior layouts and design, but do not have remarkable interiors, not to mention that Earthquake and Fortress Baroque evolved similar structures, but for very different motivations. Meanwhile, San Agustin in Manila lacks an outstanding exterior, but is perhaps the most richly decorated church in Asia outside of the Middle East. And let’s not forget that these churches are in different regions of a country whose regions exhibit huge cultural and environmental differences between one another.
CORREGIDOR ISLAND
Tentative WHS: Corregidor Island and Historic Fortifications of Manila Bay
Lighthouses: Corregidor Island: Corregidor Island Lighthouse
The Dark Side: Corregidor Island: War Ruins
HISTORY During the Spanish colonial period, ships were required to stop and present their documents, thus giving the island both its name and initial function. Though Corregidor was initially a simple outpost, its value grew rapidly due to its strategic location. By the late 1800s, Spain had begun building fortifications and placing cannons to guard the entrance of the bay. However, the island’s true transformation came after Spain ceded the Philippines to the United States in 1898.
The U.S. fortified the island with Fort Mills with long-range artillery batteries, reinforced tunnels, and military barracks. They built the Malinta Tunnel, an 800-foot-long (with side tunnels) bomb-proof bunker that functioned as a hospital, communications hub, and command center. Carved into the hillside under Fort Mills, it was central to the defence efforts until the island’s fall. By the 1930s, Corregidor was one of the most heavily armed coastal defence islands in Southeast Asia.
WWII. After the Japanese invasion of the Philippines in late 1941, American and Filipino forces made their final stand on Bataan and Corregidor. Following the fall of Bataan in April 1942, Corregidor became the last holdout in Luzon. Under intense bombardment, the defenders held on valiantly inside the Malinta Tunnel and other fortifications. But by May 6, 1942, they could no longer withstand the siege. General Jonathan Wainwright surrendered the island to Japanese forces which marked a significant low point in the Pacific theatre and signalled the beginning of Japanese occupation.
Corregidor was eventually recaptured by Allied forces in February 1945, following one of the most daring airborne and amphibious assaults of the war. The battle left much of the island in ruins, but it also cemented Corregidor’s legacy as a symbol of Filipino and American courage, sacrifice, and unity.
Corregidor Island lighthouse stands tall as a symbol of its maritime past. Originally built by the Spanish in 1853, the lighthouse served as a navigational guide for ships entering Manila Bay. Its placement on the highest point of the island made it visible from long distances, helping vessels safely make their way to the port city. Rebuilt in the 1950s after suffering heavy damage during World War II, the cylindrical tower, constructed with stone and brick, offers panoramic views
Battery Way and Battery Hearn – Coastal defence gun emplacements used during the island’s siege were the backbone of Corregidor’s defences. Battery Hearn, with its long-range 12-inch gun, could fire over 17 miles. Battery Way featured rapid-fire mortars. Both were heavily used during the Japanese assault and now stand as solemn, rusted guardians of the past.
Mile-Long Barracks – A three-story, 1,520 feet long concrete structure, now roofless and weathered, it once housed American soldiers.
Pacific War Memorial – A solemn tribute to the Filipino and American lives lost during the war. This elegant white dome structure is located on Topside and includes a circular altar where sunlight shines precisely through an opening at noon on May 6 each year, marking the Fall of Corregidor. It’s a deeply symbolic space for reflection.
Japanese Garden of Peace. This tranquil site, created by the Japanese government, promotes reconciliation and remembrance. Statues, shrines, and stone paths make it a peaceful detour from the military-heavy route, adding emotional balance to your visit.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Ferry departs from the tip of the Bataan Peninsula at the Mariveles Ferry Terminal (I think because it was impossible to prove). The issue is that travel to Corregidor is controlled by tour companies from Manila, and independent travel is made difficult.
Getting Around. Walk to major sites. Rent a bicycle. Hire a local guide or tricycle
Dining options are limited on the island.
BALANGA
SAN CARLOS (Pangasinan)
BATANGAS
House and Biographical Museums
Batangas: Apolinario Mabini Shrine
Military, War and Police Museums: Balanga: Bataan World War II Museum
TARTAC CITY
Religious Monuments: Tarlac: Statue of the Risen Christ
OLONGAPO
Vestiges of the Past: Olongapo: Spanish Gate
BATAR
History, Culture, National and City Museums: Baler: Museo de Baler
House and Biographical Museums: Baler: Doña Aurora Aragon-Quezon House
SUBIC
Zoos:
Subic Bay: Magaul Bird Park
Subic: Zoobic Safari
Maritime/Ship Museums: Subic Bay: Magellan’s Landing Maritime Museum
Religious Temples
Batulao: Calaruega Church
Calasiao: Calasiao Church
Manaoag: Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag
Santo Tomas: Parish and National Shrine of Saint Padre Pio
Religious Monuments
Lucban: Kamay Ni Hesus
Pangasinan: Christ the Savior (Pilgrimage Island)
Pilar: Mount Samat National Shrine
Monuments:
Capas: Capas National Shrine
Pilar: Mt. Samat National Shrine
World of Nature
Aurora Memorial NP
Bataan NP
Biak Na Bato NP
Casecnan Protected Landscape
Hundred Islands NP
Minalungao NP
Mount Palay – Palay NP
Quezon Protected Landscape
Salinas Natural Monument
Waterfalls: Bolinao Falls
Caves, Sinkholes and Saltmines: Pangasinan: Enchanted Cave
Rivers: Agno River, Pampanga River
Beaches: Anilao
Well-being: Eco-Experience: Villa Escudero Plantations and Resort
Lighthouses:
Capones Island: Capones Island Lighthouse
Open-Air Museums: Bagac: Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar
CABANATUAN
DAGUPAN
Islands
Jomalig Island
Luzon
Polillo
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels
Road – Bitukang Manok
Roads: Tarlac – Pangasinan – La Union Expressway
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I didn’t go here
PHILIPPINES – LUZON (Calamba, Laguna), Bicol (Legazpi)
Tentative WHS: Mayon Volcano Natural Park (MMVNP) (20/03/2015)
SORSOGON
LEGAZPI
Giant Statue of Nuestra Señora de Salvacion.
Cagsawa Ruins, Albay. Vestiges of the Past:
Daraga Church, Daraga:
Legazpi Bicol International (DRP)
NAGA
House and Biographical Museums: Naga: Museo ni Jesse Robredo
Religious Temples: Naga: Basilica of Our Lady Of Peñafrancia
Naga (WNP)
Airports:Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels: Roads: Tarlac – Pangasinan – La Union Expressway
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Romblon: Fort San Andres
Religious Monuments: Caramoan: Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary, Mother of Peace Grotto
World of Nature
Bicol Natural Park
Bulusan Volcano Natural Park
Caramoan NP
Libmanan Caves NP
Mayon Volcano Natural Park
Mount Guiting-Guiting Natural Park
Mount Isarog Natural Park
Quitinday Green Hills Formation Reserve
Waterfalls: Catandayagan Falls
Caves, Sinkholes and Saltmines: Albay: Hoyop-hoyopan Cave
Beaches
Bonbon Beach
Mahabang Buhangin Beach
Lighthouses
Bagatao Island: Bagatao Island Lighthouse
Masbate: Jintotolo Lighthouse
DARE Calaguas group
Islands
Burias
Catanduanes
Masbate
Sibuyan
Tablas
Ticao
