Flights
Oct 8. Flair YVR-SFO @7:00-09:30. 10′ layover
Swiss Air: SFO-ZRH @19:30-15:50+1 11’20”. 20’20” layover.
Oct 10. ZRH-DEL @12:10-23:35 7’55”
ON I slept at the domestic gate of the airport.
Day 2 Sat Oct 11
UNION TERRITORY OF LADAKH (Leh, Kargil, Nubra Valley, Pinging Lake)
Flight: DEL-LEH Delayed for two hours. It was a dramatic view of Ladakh out the window.
I got a taxi 600 R to the Melmai Hostel, very close to the main business district. There was no one there, the internet didn’t work and my eSIM couldn’t accept any of the three telephone networks, I slept for an hour in a dorm bed waiting for the owner to arrive. When he didn’t, I walked down the lane to the Peace Guesthouse and got a room there – a private bedroom with a bath and wifi for 800R.
I went out for a walk through downtown Leh. There are two pedestrian streets with a wide range of souvenir shops (shawls, rugs, jewelry, clothes).
Jamai Masjid Leh. At the intersection of the two streets, this magnificent mosque is 4 stories with great carved woodwork. The prayer hall is festooned with painted arches. Thre are two minarets, one shorter and square and one round.
I had a marsala dosa and lassi for a perfect dinner.
The three NM sites in Leh all entail long drives so I didn’t see any of them. I decided that there was little I wanted to do in Ladakh and so booked a flight to Srinagar for 9 the next morning.
COLD DESERT CULTURAL LANDSCAPE OF INDIA Tentative WHS: (15/04/2015). High-altitude, rain-shadow regions in the Himalayas – Ladakh and the Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh. These areas feature harsh, arid environments with sparse vegetation, resulting from their rain-shadow location behind the Himalayas and their extreme elevations, which range from 3,000 to 5,000 meters above sea level. Summers are short and dry, while winters are long, windy, and freezing, with temperatures dropping well below freezing. Despite the cold, the sun’s intensity is very high, creating a unique phenomenon where one can experience both sunstroke and frostbite simultaneously.
The landscape is characterized by barren, rugged, and sparsely vegetated topography, with stark contrasts between the brown mountains and high-altitude lakes, such as the saltwater Pangong Tso.
It is known for its monasteries, nomadic traditions, and resilience in a challenging climate, making it a significant cultural and natural heritage site.
Buddhism and Islam: The cultural influences are a unique blend of Buddhist and Islamic traditions, reflected in the numerous monasteries (gompas) found throughout Ladakh.
Nomadic lifestyles, particularly in the Changthang region, highlight sustainable resource use and a deep understanding of conservation.
Fauna includes wild sheep, goats, yaks, and the elusive snow leopard, which thrives in the Hemis National Park.
ON Peace Guesthouse. It was a very long night. The room was great with lots of blankets but there is no communal area or kitchen and it was cold. It became a very long night of reading and trying to sleep when one has had enough.
LEH
Leh Palace
Stok Palace
Hall of Fame. Military, War and Police Museums
Spituk Monastery
Day 3 Sun Oct 12
Flight. Leh to Srinagar 08:45-13:00. Air India $97. Stop in Jammu.. This area is heavily militarized with heavy security in the airport, alll military.
As usual there were lots of touts, not for taxis but for houseboats. Taxi from the airport 900R
JAMMU AND KASHMIR (Srinagar, Jammu, Kathua)
ON John’s Homestay. With reviews of 9.8 on Booking.com, the owner is a great guy and very helpful. Dorm Room. Lovely, modern and clean. Access to their kitchen which is the communal area of the house (carpet and pillows).
Day 4, Mon Oct 13
SRINAGAR
This was my birthday (73). I can’t remember the last time I had a birthday (or Christmas) at home in Canada. I am always on the road, alone and never celebrate anything. Like Xmas, it is just another day.
This was my big day to see all the NM sites in Srinagar. I initially thought I would rent a scooter (1200R) but then was told that B’s father was a taxi driver and would drive me around to see everything. I told him all the sites and for 3500R, we had a great day. He was a lovely man, very patient and waited for me outside everywhere. We must have driven over 60 km over about 7 hours.
Srinagar is 97% Muslim and Jammu mostly Hindu.
Dal Lake. Srinagar surrounds this huge lake. Most ot the city is on the west side. There are hundreds of tour boats called shikara. A ride costs Rs 790 per hour with up to 4 adults in one boat. The west shore also has many houseboat hotels, all very cheap. There were machines clearing all the plants from the lake and dredges to deepen it. There was even a swimming area. There are three light shows every evening that last for about 20-30 minutes. The first show is at 8 pm and then it is repeated 2 more times. The best way to plan your evening would be to first reach Ghat No.19.
Srinagar Floating Market. Opens at 6 and closes early, so we went here first. Located on the serene Dal Lake, has been a lifeline for local farmers for generations. The market, which operates early in the morning at dawn, sees farmers selling their produce directly from their boats. Vegetables and flowers are the main things sold, but I also saw bread and tea.
Zero Bridge. Also known as the “wood bridge”, this pedestrian bridge sits on 7 ancient wood piers and crosses the Jhelum River. The deck is also wood planks. There are several “gazebos” with sitting areas and some restaurants. The carved wood lamp poles have ancient lanterns on top.
Shankaracharya Temple. Drive up a very long road to the top of Gopratri Hill, 1000 feet above the lake. Then it is 255 steps to the area below the temple and 30 high steps up to the temple itself. It has an 8-sided balcony with awesome views of all Srinagar. The mountain had a shrine here in 371 BC. The temple building itself was built of rough stone by Shah Jehan in 1644. Inside, the temple is about 15 feet across with a polished black granite lingum in the centre. A wonderful silver cobra curls wound the bottom of the lingum and then rises to the top of it.
I was surprised at how busy it was, mostly with older Hindus. I wonder how many have had heart attacks climbing the stairs.
Pari Mahal. Listed as a palace in NM, this is actually a garden built on seven terraces. Drive up another long hill but with a minimal climb to the garden. Each terrace is fronted with a rough stone wall with recessed arches. The gardens are basically grass with manicured shrubs and flowers. the third terrace is all roses. 30R, 100R foreigners. Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Botanical Gardens. This is a huge garden typical of most Indian botanical gardens with large areas of grass, manicured shrubs and many elaborate flower beds. There are some large trees. A large lake with lilies has a nice path around it. In April the garden has a tulip festival. 30R, 100R foreigners
MUGHAL GARDENS OF KASHMIR Tentative WHS (13/12/2010) is a collection of historically significant gardens near Dal Lake in Srinagar, built by the Mughal emperors, known for their terraced layouts, flowing fountains, and symmetrical architecture integrated with the natural landscape. Key examples include Shalimar Bagh, the high point of Mughal horticulture, and Nishat Bagh, a “Garden of Delight” overlooking Dal Lake, showcasing a blend of Persian design and Kashmiri natural beauty. These gardens are considered outstanding examples of garden art and a testament to the cultural legacy of the Mughal era.
Water Features: Fountains, central water channels, and large tanks (hauz) are prominent features, symbolizing paradise and creating a serene atmosphere. The gardens are strategically built at the foot of mountains, utilizing the mountainous terrain and natural springs to their advantage. Avenues of centuries-old Chinar trees provide shade and enhance the timeless charm and beauty of the gardens.
Shalimar Bagh: Built by Emperor Jahangir, this is considered the high point of Mughal horticulture and is a famous public park.
Nishat Bagh, known as “The Garden of Delight,” was built by Asaf Khan, the brother of Empress Nur Jahan, and offers stunning views of Dal Lake.
Chashma Shahi: Known for its natural spring, believed to have healing properties, set within a charming terraced garden.
Pari Mahal: Also known as the “Angels’ Abode,” this seven-terraced garden offers panoramic views of Dal Lake and was a center for astronomy and astrology.
Verinag: The focus of a breathtaking garden built around a sacred spring, which became a template for other Mughal gardens in the region.
Mughal architecture blends Persian-inspired design with the natural beauty of the Kashmiri landscape.
I saw Pari Mahal first then Nishat Bagh further north across the road along the east side of Dal Lake. The twelve terraces sit on an area of 350 m x 556 m. A water channel runs down the middle that cascades over each terrace. There are primarily large areas of grass, manicured shrubs, moderately large trees and great flower beds. Many people were picnicking on the grass. 30R, 100 foreigners.
Makhdoom Sahib Ropeway. Closed for several years.
THE NEOLITHIC SETTLEMENT OF BURZAHOM Tentative WHS (15/04/2014).
Archaeological excavations have revealed four phases of cultural significance between 3000 BCE and 1000 BCE. Periods I and II represent the Neolithic era; Period III the Megalithic era (of massive stone menhirs and wheel-turned red pottery); and Period IV relates to the early Historical Period (Post-megalithic period). Evidence of wheat was found.
The Burzahom site revealed the transition from the subterranean and ground-level housing of the Neolithic people to the mudbrick structures of the Megalithic people. The large cache of tools and implements made of bone and stone found at the site shows that the inhabitants were hunting and farming.
They established contact with Central Asia and South West Asia
It is 16 kilometres (9.9 mi) to the northwest of Srinagar on the Naseem-Shalimar road.
Climb an embankment to a small grassed plateau. There are two things to see. One is grouping of about 7 megaliths surrounded by a metal fence. Below is a covered archaeological dig with three large pits. Free
Dargah Hazratbal Shrine. A large mosque complex with a white marble entrance. Enter the entrance hall in a large tent. The men’s prayer room is all carved wood in the celing and walls. The octagonal dome is covered in hexagonal geometrics and has a multiriered chandelier. The mihrab is panels of small colourful flowers. The women’s prayer hall is just as big as the men’s side. Free
Hari Parbat. A fort on top of another mountain. Drive up a very narrow dirt road and then climb for about 12 minutes up to the fort. Enter at a 90 degree gate. The inside of the fort is built on at least four terraces with large water cisterns on two levels. A small functioning mosque is also there. The rough stone walls are round on the north end, have many narrow arrow slits and two small watch towers. 30R, 100R foreigners.
We then entered the old town of Srinagar.
Jamia Masjid. A huge brick mosque 381 x 384 feet in dimension with large prayer halls on all four sides of a large central square with a fountain in the middle. The centre of each hall has a very high roof topped with “pagoda”- like roof line. There are 378 wood pillars in three rows of each hall, 346 are 21 feet tall and 32 in the centre of each side 41 feet tall, all standing on a black granite plinth. The mihrab is black granite with white calligraphy. It suffered 3 fires and was renovated in 1480, 1620 and 1642. It holds 33,333 people.
Masjid Dastgeer Sahib. NM says that this is in Khanyar (which is an area in Srinagar). The facade is carved white stone with green windows. Inside is a tomb. There are several beautiful prayer halls lined with geometric tiles. The columns are wonderful.
Khanqah-e-Moula. With a multi-tiered wood “pagoda” like roof, the inside is lovely with geometric tiles covering every surface. There were 23 chandeliers.
SPS Museum. Closed on a Monday.
ON John’s Homestay for the second night. I ate at a Sikh restaurant close to the homestay. A large plate of chicken biryani with a large coke was 200R.
Day 5 Tue Oct 14
Flight. Srinagar to Chandigarh @14:45-16:00. Indigo Air.
On arrival, it was nice to be able to access a mobile network and I used Uber to get a taxi. I had booked a hotel in the other direction of downtown. The driver refused to use Google Maps directions, took a “shortcut” and then about 5km and 20 minutes longer to get there. I was informed that foreigners couldn’t stay there. So I booked another hotel, another 40 minute drive in terrible traffic to get the same news. But that hotel clerk told me that foreigners can only stay is Section 17, 1 or 26, different districts of Chandigarh. So I booked my third hotel and took another Uber 30 minutes to drive the 6 km to a hotel in section 17. It cost about twice the others. That driver told me that the second hotel was in a bad neighborhood and was a “fucking” hotel, ie used mainly by prostitutes. So, almost 4 hours after arriving, I finally had a room. I ordered room service and had delicious butter chicken, rice and naan.
ON Corporate Hotel. Kind of a dump but with a great kitchen. It was also the hotel closest to all the NM sites I wanted to see tomorrow.
GO TO CHANDIGARH
SILK ROAD SITES IN INDIA Tentative WHS (20/01/2010) 12 centers of trade and cultural exchange, connected to the main Silk Road via Himalayan routes, the Grand Trunk Road (Uttarpatha), and riverine systems. Key sites include ancient Buddhist centers like Kushinagar and Vaishali (Bihar), the Roman trading port of Arikamedu (Puducherry), and the archaeological site of Sravasti (Uttar Pradesh), highlighting the routes’ role in spreading Buddhism, trade goods, and cultural ideas.
These 12 sites are
Bihar: Ruins of Ancient Vaishali, Remains of Vikramshila Ancient University
Uttar Pradesh: Buddhist remains of Kushinagar, Sravasti, Kaushambi, Ahichhatra, Puducherry: Arikamedu, Tamil Nadu: Excavated Remains of Kaveripattinam
and Kashmir: Ancient monastery and stupa at Harwan
Maharashtra: Shuraparaka (Nala Sopara), Burud Kot
Punjab: SangholΩ
Himalayan Routes: India was connected to the Silk Road via routes through Kashmir and Ladakh, facilitating trade and cultural exchange with Central Asia.
Grand Trunk Road (Uttarpatha): This historic road served as a major artery for trade and commerce, connecting significant cultural and trade centers like Delhi and Patna to the broader Silk Road network.
Riverine Trade: Cities like Varanasi and Patna leveraged the Ganga River as a key entrepôt, integrating river trade into the Silk Roads.
Cultural Exchange: These sites were vital for the exchange of ideas, religions (especially Buddhism), and artistic styles between India and other regions.
Explore ancient universities, Buddhist pilgrimage sites, and remnants of Roman trade centers, experiencing the legacy of the Silk Road firsthand.
