TRAVERSES of the VALHALLAS by SKI

TRAVERSE of the VALHALLAS by SKI – Mulvey Basin to Shannon Creek
The Valhalla traverse is the ultimate West Kootenay traverse. Remote and committing, this rewarding ski traverse through Valhalla Provincial Park is a guided tour offered by Summit Mountain Guides. It is a 7-day, tent-based ski traverse, a challenging trip with significant ascents and descents over rugged and remote alpine terrain in the Selkirk Mountains.

There are many differences between a ski traverse and a traverse on foot. A ski traverse avoids all the bushwhacking as the slide alder and dense bush that the Kootenays are famous for are covered by snow.

I commend David Lussier for offering this trip, following lines rarely done now or not possible in the summer.
The ski traverse offered by SMG starts in Mulvey Basin rather than Drinnon Pass. Few people approach Mulvey Basin from Robertson Basin and the Wolf’s Ears col. The descent from the col ends near the old Mulvey Basin cabin at the bottom of the basin and then ascends through the entire basin to exit via the Nifelheim/Midgard col, once the main route into Mulvey Basin, but is rarely done now with the Gimli trail.
The traverse from Mulvey to Drinnon is also rarely done now. When the Bannock Burn road was blocked, it was one route into Mulvey Basin. Because of complicated route finding, people were getting lost, and park rangers removed the cairns marking the route (go figure). Including Mulvey makes it a true traverse of the entire Valhallas.
Interestingly, the last day follows the spectacular airy ridge above Wragge Lakes. Unfortunately, this is unknown to most of the hiking traverses that also end at Shannon Creek. A ski traverse also involves skiing down Hills.

The trip is offered in March or April when the days are longer, warmer, and the snowpack is more stable. Avalanche precautions are necessary.
Weather and conditions affect the exact itinerary. This tour is particularly far from any escape routes and travels through steep, exposed terrain. The conditions and weather have to be optimal for this committing trip to unfold as planned.

Day 1: Fly from Nelson to the head of Robertson Creek. Tour up to the Wolf’s Ears Col and ski down into Mulvey Basin. Camp One is on a high shelf on the north side of Upper Mulvey Lakes.
Day 2: Travel west over three mountain passes to Gwillim Lakes, camp 2
Day 3: Go north over Lucifer col, Hird Lakes and Urd col to the Ice Creek valley and a food cache, camp 3
Day 4: Continue north and east by ascending to a high col at the headwaters of Beatrice Creek. From the col, ski down to an alpine basin near Avis Lakes, camp 4
Day 5: Follow the top of a ridge system east and eventually ski north into the headwaters of Snow Creek. A short climb east to a col leads to the headwaters of Nemo Creek. Ski down to an alpine bench with unnamed lakes, camp 5
Day 6: A significant ascent over Mount Meers leads to a fantastic run down to Wee Sandy Lake. Traverse north across the headwaters of Wee Sandy Creek, the last camp is near an unnamed lake, northeast of Mount Niord.
Day 7: The last day, ascend northwest to the committing Nerthus-Skadi col. Travel north along a ridge above the headwaters of Wragge Creek and to the Vingolf col. Descend Shannon Creek to the small village of Hills and the vehicles.

SKI TOURING in the VALHALLAS  New Denver Glacier to Wragge Creek April 1981 by John Carter
Participants: Dave Smith, Dennis Herman and John Carter

Day 1. We began our ski journey one morning in April 1981 in New Denver. We met our helicopter at the boat launching ramp and, before long, were climbing towards the New Denver Glacier where we were to begin our ski tour. Although some may say we cheated, the use of this helicopter saved us at least two days struggling up Sharp Creek with mammoth packs.
Saying goodbye to our helicopter, we began the task of finding a suitable location for our tent, until the weather had closed in and subsequent gusts of wind and blasts of snow provided us with a forewarning of what was to come. A good location at approximately 7000 ft, close to the edge of the plateau, gave us a view, not only of the glacier and all the peaks, but down the valley to the upper portion of New Denver.
Anxious to explore the area, we gulped lunch and started across the plateau below the glacier, exploring hills and dells while carefully watching the weather. A tour partway up the glacier proved to be far enough, as visibility became minimal and blowing snow obscured our tracks. Good skiing made up for the poor weather conditions, and we were pleased on our first day. We all had ski mountaineering equipment and were glad for the heavier gear.
Day 2. The following day, we dug ourselves out from the 15 cm snowfall and toured up the pass between Iron Peak and English Peak. We decided to ski down to a lake shown on the map that turns into Wee Sandy Creek, which offered good, steep, but fairly dangerous skiing. We encountered a very steep slope hallway down and “enjoyed” minor sluffs and avalanches. Our ascent from the lake followed the imminent south or proper ridge to where we reached the pass again, and from there, we toured up the glacier. With slopes becoming steeper and visibility worsening, we stopped to dig a snow pit beneath Mt. Denver near the 8500 ft level. The clouds parted for several minutes and we toiled up the glacier between Mt. Denver and the peak to the north. A good place to test and peel our skins off. Some skiing terrain could be seen at the head of Hoben Creek, but it would be rugged country to reach easily. Our run back to the tent was great; approximately 30 cm of powder and excellent visibility. At supper hour, we were treated to a lovely alpenglow throughout the area we were in and to the north in the Kane Creek headwaters.
Day 3. The next day, after we dug out from 20 cm of snow, we began dividing up food and camp equipment and arguing about who wanted to carry the wet tent. Our route followed yesterday to near the snowpit where a short, steep ridge was ascended between English Peak and Mt Denver.
Our route was before us; just around the huge basin and over the edge to Wee Sandy Lake. A descent of 1000′ put us in a position to climb to our ridge. Our 50 lb packs became unbearable as we broke trail in 35 to 50 cm of new snow up steep, exposed slopes. Fortunately, conditions were reasonably stable. The weather alternated between blowing snow and whiteouts to dazzlingly clear periods: one minute jackets and hoods up, and the next minute stripped down to teeshirts. We ascended a very steep (not recommended) slope, hugging close to the cliff face, and reached the ridge, but not before tripping a small slab avalanche off our ski track. There were our destinations, the south end of Wee Sandy Lake, and the ski slopes behind the campsite; wow, yipee, wonder bar!
Now the sun was out, and although we were tired, we enjoyed the good skiing down off the ridge through the trees to the end of the lake. The tent was soon up, and our stove purring away. We even found water and excavated a site to ski right to the water’s edge? The weather was clearing, and what a location – Mt. Meers to the south, Mt. Niord to the west and an unnamed peak across Wee Sandy Lake to the northwest.
Day 4. Again, we awoke to 15 cm of fresh snow and, after the usual laid-back breakfast, we stumbled out of the tent to dig ourselves out. Today was an exploring day as we toured over, around, and between numerous ridges and forested glens, all the while hoping to find a reasonable route up Mt. Meers. But, to no avail, although we could see a possible route up the northwest ridge directly above the largest lake at the head of the valley. Our journey took us around the lake and up to the ridge near where we had come down the day before. The weather began to clear as we skied the heavy powder off the ridge back to our campsite. A good day of exploring the area and enjoying the possibilities of a future cabin and ski touring area. Another lovely sunset put the final touches to a good day in a new location.
Day 5. Early the next morning, we were greeted with a beautiful sunrise, which reconciled the relatively cool, uncomfortable night we had. Shortly after breakfast, as we were putting our skis on, in flew Doug Williams to see if we were all okay, for he worried about us with all the fresh snow that had fallen. There are not many pilots who would make that effort unless asked to do so!
Our tour today was up the valley again, but south, and up the slopes to a ridge overlooking the large basin of Caribou Creek. A spectacular ridge in both directions, particularly the one to the northwest, as this could be traversed on skis for a mile or so, we believed. We skied partway down the slope, dug a snowpit and then proceeded to cut up the powder. Super skiing in a super area! Over 1/ 4 mile on this aspect of super skiing, the majority of the skiing season. We were ecstatic about this area as a ski touring region. Returning to camp after a rest. We toured the length of Wee Sandy Lake and broke trail past the lake for the next day’s ski out. The northwest end of the lake provided excellent views of the valley we had enjoyed for two days.
Day 6. Our final day proved to be the warmest. Early in the morning, we broke camp and, with packs lighter than three days ago, started slowly down the lake: Crystal clear sky, no wind and very warm. Although the snow was heavy to break trail in, we made good time to “Grizzly Lakes” north of Mt. Niord. Above the lake, we worried the slopes would let loose and destroy us. But our good luck held, and by 11:00 am, we were on the pass, almost sad to look back knowing that we would not return for some time, and our ski tour was almost over.
We were forced to drop down somewhat to the west as the ridge to the east proved to be too steep to traverse over. But before long, after a leisurely lunch, we were back on the height of land, looking down now into Wragge Creek. Enjoyable skiing down the heavy wet snow slopes to Wragge Lake tested our reflexes and each of us left several large craters in the snow! At Wragge Lake, we had a rest, admired the steepness of the almost box lake and then found the logging road. Slow skiing was an understatement; wet, dirty snow and, of course, as we approached the snow line, intermittent patches of bare road and mud sluffs. Then bare road. Off with the skis, over the shoulder, and ouch, walking on a hard logging road with ski boots. But luck prevailed. Wayne McCrory was cutting shake bolts and gave us a ride to New Denver. Our trip was over, and it was very successful in many ways. Planning began for the next one on the way home to Nelson?

Map Reference 82E/13/ and 82K/4

SKI MOUNTAINEERING IN THE VALHALLAS Mulvey Basin to Wee Sandy Creek April 1985 by John Carter
Day 1. Our seven-day ski tour in the beautiful Valhalla Range began April 9, 1985, with a helicopter from Nelson to Mulvey Basin. The day was clear and warm, and snow was sliding off the slabs surrounding Mulvey Basin. After nearly two hours of shovelling the roof of the Mulvey Hut and digging out the door and toilet, we were able to move in. A quick lunch, then a tour around the basin, stopping to dig a snowpit below Midgard peak, followed by an attempt at skiing down beneath Asgeard. The snow was heavy and we had poor results. A leisurely ski back to the cabin for dinner and a lovely sunset.
A note about our equipment: we were all using heavy cross-country skis and skins. Our group equipment included a McKinley tent, avalanche probes, pieps, 150 m. of rope, packs and the usual survival gear. We were four in number and carried 50-55 lb. packs for the first two or three days.
Day 2. The next day dawned clear and warm, and after a hearty breakfast, we were off. We started climbing near the large lake via the northwest side of the basin, reaching the col between Asgard and Gladsheim peaks. Off with the skins for a cautious descent down the steep northwest slope until we reached a gentle plateau (or bench) below Asgard. We traversed northwest from here, keeping the same elevation until we rounded the flank of Asgard for the glide down to Prestley Lakes. It was a beautiful setting below the peaks of Midgard, Asgard, East and West Prestley.
The snow was wet and soft, and various climbing skin problems developed, ones which would plague us for the rest of the journey. We climbed the saddle to the west of the lakes and skied down the other side to Valhalla Lake. It was hard going up the col, and coming down, we encountered rotten, deep, spring snow 100 metres above the lake. I managed to disappear headfirst into a hole and luckily was able to pull myself upright to dig my way out downhill. The first of many terrific glundersplats.!! After a much-deserved rest and lunch at Valhalla Lake, we skied around the steep walls of Drinnon Peak. In poor snow and changing weather conditions, we stopped and pitched our tent. Tea was soon brewing as raindrops began! We certainly did not need rain! At 5 pm, it was +6.5 degrees centigrade.
Day 3. On April 11, we packed up amid rain showers in a whiteout. We turned the corner and began ascending to a col on Drinnon Ridge, still in a whiteout and terrible skiing conditions. Our route down was horrendous, on a very steep, wet, avalanche slope to near Drinnon Lake. Our hearts were in our mouths, but we all made it without starting a major avalanche. By now, it was raining as we struggled along to Drinnon Pass, where we devoured our lunch. In a while, we set out again, to descend to the lake below Gregorio, followed by a climb up the little valley to the left (or south) of the summer trail. Once again, conditions looked poor with ominous clouds forming and the odd sprinkle of rain or wet snow. On the Gwillim Lakes plateau, we chose a sheltered clump of trees between the two largest lakes where we set up the tent and brewed the tea. For the rest of the day and evening, it snowed, blew and hailed ’til nightfall when the sky partially cleared. At this point, we were having serious misgivings about the conditions so far, and what we felt might be ahead of us. “Oh well, we’ll see what tomorrow brings.”
Day 4. A mainly clear morning greeted us as we pulled ourselves from the icy tent, dug out the stove and began the daily task of packing, cooking and taking down the tent. Soon we were off across the lake, switchbacking up the hill to the Lucifer (or Black Prince) Col. It was hard snow but good touring conditions. We took off the skins and had a good ski down the basin to Hird Lakes. The snow was good and we made excellent time. There was evidence of a lot of avalanche activity off the peaks to the west of Hird Lakes, but we escaped it. Next came a nasty little climb up rotten snow above Hird lakes, followed by an easy ascent to the col west of Urd Peak.
A cool breeze greeted us as we caught a great view of the Devil’s Range and our route down Ice Creek. We skied down some entertaining slopes which soon were littered with skis, poles, bathtubs and small avalanches! Then it was on into the trees for another memorable flogging! Finally, we reached the valley bottom and were all present and accounted for. A gentle ski down the valley for approximately two miles through avalanche debris, large hemlocks and spruce trees, until we decided, regretfully, that it was time to climb. What a frustrating, tiring ascent that was! For five and a half hours, we fought our way uphill, usually sinking to the ground with each step, in the rotten snow. We skied on through thick clumps of cedar and hemlock, all interspersed with willow and slide alder. At 6 p.m., exhausted and dejected, we stopped to attempt to dig a tent pad on a 40-degree hillside. Finally, we were able to erect the tent, cook dinner and crawl into our bags; a truly tough, exhausting day.
Day 5. April 13 did not appear much better, with high overcast skies and a warm breeze blowing up the mountain. Soon we had our gear packed and we began a slow climb, finally reaching the top of a 7,800-foot ridge, but in the process setting off several metre-deep slab avalanches! Some trees had taken a beating, but fortunately, we were okay. We did the last 100 metres of the ridge climb in our ski boots as it was mainly snow-free, exploding juniper and grass. We all enjoyed a pleasant run down to Avis Lakes, then a short climb up to the ridge north of the lakes, where we had a glimpse of our route for the remainder of the day. We enjoyed a lovely ski along the ridge, one of the highlights of the trip, savouring it before our descent into the Snow Creek drainage. An entertaining ski down off the ridge brought us onto broad timbered slopes through which several huge avalanches had run. Unpleasant scrambling on the skies through and over the avalanche debris took considerable time. We travelled down the valley for approximately one km, then, in rotten snow conditions, we began a slow climb up the hillside. By 4 p.m. we reached an unmapped lake located due southwest over the ridge from Nemo Lakes. More avalanches thundered down the mountains in every direction, so we decided to camp here to dry out and wait until conditions hardened up in the morning before attempting the route up the ridge. We enjoyed the warm drying fire, though having to expend a lot of time to keep feeding it with wood.
Day 6. The best course of action in the morning was to stay in one’s bag and contemplate the trip. A total whiteout enveloped the area from daybreak until 9:30 a.m. when we finally decided to take a chance. We headed out up the slope, depending on the compass and good luck! We were fortunate and reached the ridge approximately where we had planned. Although the climb up was spectacular, the only thing that could be seen was the other person 15 feet ahead. The trail breaker operated on commands from the rear: left, right, too far down, too far up, and stop falling over! Conditions did not change at Nemo Lakes, so we called it a day, making camp at the lowest lake. We built a fine snow wall around our tent to keep the now strong winds and drifting snow from causing problems, and we lit a small fire to dry out our soaked boots and clothing.
Day 7. What excitement in our tent next morning at 4:15 a.m.! A clear sky and cooler temperatures gave us hope to make the summit of Meers and perhaps all the way out down Wee Sandy Creek. About a mile to the north of Nemo Lakes we were forced to ascend a very steep, dangerous slope. Fortunately we were on it before the temperature warmed up and we successfully made our way to the ridgetop for a view down into the valley of Caribou Creek.
A nice ridge ski again before we started the slow, steep icy climb up the southslope of Mt. Meers. At 9:45 a.m. we congratulated each other and shook hands on safely reaching the highest point of our tour. Photos were taken all around and then we had a reasonable but not great ski down to Upper Wee Sandy Lake. This was familiar country to Dave, Dennis and I, as we had been here the year before, enjoying some terrific skiing, during a tour from the New Denver Glacier to Wragge Creek. We enjoyed lunch at our old campsite beside fresh water, noting there was much less snow than last year.
At 12:30 p.m. we began our journey across Wee Sandy Lake and started down the valley. We never anticipated it would take us seven and a half hours on skis to navigate the valley. But we found heavy, wet, soft snow, open creeks, avalanche debris, slide alder, devils club and in places, no snow! So, the journey would take a long time. About one and a quarter miles from Slocan Lake the snow gave out and we started walking, finally reaching Slocan Lake at 7:45 p.m.
It was dark, but we had successfully completed the trip. We located the boat that had been left for us and made a careful crossing of the lake to New Denver. How nice it was to be met there by Craig Pettit who gave us cool beer and an excellent quiche before we headed home.
A few notes about the tour: We probably experienced some of the worst conditions that one could encounter along this complicated route. We considered ourselves lucky that we were not hit by avalanches or did not have to turn back had the conditions been worse. It is imperative for anyone attempting this trip to be very familiar with map reading, compass orientation, avalanche safety procedures, excellent route finding skills, and good leadership capabilities. Skiers should have good equipment and be in good physical condition. Extra food should be carried as well as a repair kit capable of meeting any and all emergencies. This trip is a rewarding experience but not one to be attempted by those unprepared to “go the extra mile”fully prepared. 

 

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I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am "home", are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking. I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.
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