GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
The Galápagos Islands are an archipelago of volcanic islands 900 km (560 mi) west of the mainland of South America. The Galápagos are famous for their endemic species, which were studied by Charles Darwin in the 1830s and inspired his theory of evolution through natural selection.
Darwin’s voyage on HMS Beagle was part of an extensive British survey of the coasts of South America. Ecuador formally occupied and claimed the islands on 12 February 1832
There are 7 large islands, 7 small islands and many tiny islands all volcanic in origin and relatively recent in origin (1-5 million years old with the oldest islands in the east and the newest in the west) and there is still volcanic activity with the most recent eruption in 2010. Fernandina has been the most active volcano since 1790, with recent eruptions in 1991, 1995, 2005, and 2009, Straddling the equator, islands in the chain are located in both the northern and southern hemispheres, spread out over a distance of 220 km (137 mi).
With no natural enemies for millions of years, all the wildlife is amazingly tame (or habituated or genetically primed to not respond to non-threatening humans). Absolutely nothing reacts to your presence.
This was still the dry season (wet season January to May) and the islands all are very rugged and desolate. The main tree is the Palo Santos tree, and with no leaves, a grey twiggy tree covering the barren lava fields and multiple volcanic cones. Wildlife is everywhere but mostly consists of iguanas (land and marine), sea lions (common and fur) and many birds – pelicans, blue-footed and Nasca boobies, albatross, magnificent frigate birds, mockingbirds, G. falcons and of course the famous 13 varieties of finch).
There are only 116 visitor sites in the Galápagos: 54 land sites and 62 scuba-diving or snorkelling sites. Small groups are allowed to visit in 2- to 4-hour shifts only, to limit impact on the area. All groups are accompanied by licensed guides.
I had booked the cruise ship, the Galavan 1 for a total cost, including flight and NP fees of $2,000. Many ships cost $5-6,000 for the same trip. The boat is the second lowest of 5 levels of cost but turned out to be a great deal with good food, rooms, guides and itinerary. For the first 4 days, we had 13 on the boat and for the second 4 days, there were 18.
With 54 sites that allow visits, we went to 2 to 4 sites every day, seeing slightly different critters at each.
We also snorkelled 1–2 times per day, and I was able to identify 23 different kinds of fish by the end. Watching sea lions fishing a few feet away and cruising by you constantly was amazing. Several sites also had green sea turtles, and it was incredible to float above 2 or 3 at once. With significant distances between sites, much time was spent motoring for several hours every day, mainly at night. That is why several islands are inaccessible when travellers try to see the Galapagos from the two towns.
Unfortunately, I developed a severe case of ¨tourista¨ that responded well to antibiotics available on the ship. I spent two extra nights in Puerto Ayora and then flew back to Quito.¨The Beak of the Finch¨ is fascinating reading, and it won the Pulitzer Prize several years ago.
Day 1. Flight from Quito via Guayaquil to Isla Baltra, A short bus and boat ride to Santa Cruz and a one-hour bus ride took us to Puerto Ayora, the biggest city in the Galapagos. We went out to the Galaven 1, got our rooms and then bussed to Rancho Pemiso, a private ranch in the highlands with large numbers of giant tortoises. They were everywhere and extremely tolerant of close approaches. Each island has its own species. Of the 14 original species, 3 are now extinct – they were a favourite of the buccaneers as they could be kept alive with no food or water on board a ship for up to a year and were a valuable source of protein. The ones on Santa Cruz weigh up to 600 lbs, live 200 years, are all herbivores and get all their water from the plants they eat. The ones on Santa Cruz have very domed shells and most of the others (where the cactus is taller and they have to stand on their hind legs to reach the pads) are called saddlebacks. Nearby are lava tubes – these are huge with 20-foot high ceilings and spiral shapes, with the longest 1 km long.
Day 2. We motored from 3-6 AM to Santa Fe. We had a wet landing to see many Galapagos common sea lions with many young as they are born from Oct – Dec. They have only 1 pup and breastfeed exclusively for 1 ½ years. There is one male to about 20 females. The M/F sex ratio is 40/60, but most of the males are killed in dominance battles. Habituated, they allow easy close-up looks. Many large tree-like prickly pears served as food for iguanas. We snorkelled for one hour, and the water was quite cold. In the PM, we motored to South Plaza Island on the east side of Santa Cruz, a small island with many sea lions and marine and land iguanas.
Blue Footed Boobies
Day 3. Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill) on the north side of Santa Cruz. Many black marine iguanas eat seaweed. We visited the brackish lagoon to see flamingos but none were there as the water was low and thus little food. White-tipped reef sharks in the shallows. We snorkelled from the beach. In the PM, we motored to Bartolome, a small island just north of Santiago. All volcanoes, with a 120-year-old lava flow visible on Santiago. We walked up a long boardwalk to the top of the cone with great views and snorkelled around the prominent rock. We spent the night at Chinese Hat, a small island just off the shore of Santiago.
Day 4. Motored from 5:30 to 7 to Rabida, a small island on the S shore of Santiago. Red sand beaches with red lava and palo santos trees not yet in leaf give a grey look to lava in the distance. The punta cactus had very short trunks. We used a panga along the shore to see many birds – great blue heron, yellow warbler, flycatchers. Lava heron and marine iguanas. Galapagos fur sea lions ++. Great snorkelling east of the beach. There were many flamingos on Bainbridge – an amazing volcanic cone with a central caldera and a large lake that we could look into from the boat. PM motored to James Bay on the NW side of Santiago. Black sand beach and a long walk on the shore to lava along the ocean with many arches and surge channels forming Darwin´s toilet. Many large groups of black marine iguanas and G fur sea lions. When snorkelling, we saw many green sea turtles, including three very close.
Day 5. Took a panga to Black Turtle Cove on the N coast of Santa Cruz. It is a mangrove lagoon with many eagle and sting rays, white and black-tipped reef sharks, copulating green sea turtles and other turtles. We returned to Baltra and dropped off 6 and picked up 11. We motored to North Seymour and saw many frigate birds – males with big red pouches and young.
Day 6. After a long overnight boat ride to Espanola, we snorkelled on Bahia Gardner, a beautiful big white sand beach with many sea lions off the beach and deep water snorkelling along the wall watching 2 sea lions fish not very successfully at very close range. Then, we motored to Punta Suarez with many marine iguanas – males green and red, Nasca boobies with eggs and chicks, albatross with young. The coastal volcanic cliffs had many blowholes.
Day 7. Motored to Floreana. Stopped at Post Office Bay with a barrel full of non-stamped postcards meant to be picked up and delivered by hand. Went down a lava tube with sea water up to mid-chest. Snorkelled off a yellow sand beach. Motored to Punta Cormorant with its brackish lagoon and no flamingos, and then walked overland to the bay with many stingrays and green sea turtles visible from the beach. Hermit crabs.
Day 8. We motored back to Puerto Ayora on Thurs night and visited the Charles Darwin Research Centre’s tortoise breeding program. Lonesome George, the last of his species, is there. He has been unable to breed (since then in the spring of 2012, he died). I stayed in Santa Cruz 2 more nights just hanging out, sleeping and reading.
Fish seen while snorkeling: king angelfish, razor surgeonfish, gray bar grunt, black striped salema, giant damselfish, G ringtail damselfish, yellowtail damselfish, panamic sergeant major, scissor tail chromis, panoramic graysby cabrilla, leather bass, pacific creolefish, mottled soapfish, blue chinned parrotfish, bicolor parrotfish, azure parrotfish, chameleon wrasse, spinster wrasse, wounded wrasse, cortez rainbow wrasse, mexican hogfish (all 3 variants), glasseye snapper, pink cardinalfish, panamic fanged blenney, pacific leopard flounder, giant hawkfish, coral hawkfish, orange side triggerfish, sting ray, eagle ray, blue and gold snapper, yellowhead sheephead, bulls eye puffer, pacific box fish, green sea turtles, G. common fur sea turtle.
