The Slocan Bluffs are a collection of walls located on the shore of beautiful Slocan Lake just north of the town of Slocan City. Established many decades ago, the bluffs are one of the most easily accessed and best rock-climbing areas in the West Kootenay. The main area is accessed up the historical highway built in 1928 that runs a part of the east side of Slocan Lake. The road was built to bypass Cape Horn between the lake’s northern and southern points, beginning the end of reliance on paddle-wheeler transport. The Bluffs are less than a mile from the town’s campground and swimming beach.
There are two climbing areas with at least 80 listed climbs.
1. Lower Slocan Lake Bluffs.
Drive. Park on the east side of Slocan’s defunct lumber mill and walk in along the old paved road.
Access. 70 routes exist along the one-kilometre stretch of old road next to the lake. With one of the shortest approaches in British Columbia, the local guidebook states: “It’s probably one of the only areas in British Columbia that’s wheelchair accessible.”
There are several smaller areas just above the main trail.
2. Upper Slocan Lake Bluffs. This amazing group of walls is much higher and are accessed via the highway above the town.
Drive. Park at the Slocan Lookout pullout next to the avalanche gate a few km north of the turn into Slocan City.
Access. The short trail is only 5 minutes to the crags. There are now 10 excellent pitches of climbing, fully cleaned and each route with a bolted anchor. Routes go from 5.8 to 5.11a, including some amazing trad climbs and sports routes.
References.
West Kootenay Rock Guide (Hempsall & Kritiansen @ climbing.inthekoots.com).