SOUTH PACIFIC – SUMMARY
Two options:
1. Independent. My trip route (Dec 8-Jan 10): Brisbane, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji, Tuvalu, Tonga, Samoa, Nauru, Kiribati, Micronesia, Marshall Islands, Honolulu.
2. Young Pioneers Tours Least Visited Countries Tour. December 15th, 2023-January 13th, 2024 Total US$11,995 + single supplement $2,100. Includes breakfast and lunch.
Group 1 – 15/12/2023 to 22/12/2023. Palau, Guam, Micronesia, Marshall Islands, $2795
Group 2 – 22/122023 to 30/12/2023. Nauru, Kiribati, Fiji $3995
Group 3 – 30/12/2023 to 06/01/2024 Fiji, Tuvalu, Samoa, American Samoa, Tonga $2895
Group 4 – 06/01/2024 to 13/01/2024 New Zealand, Cook Islands, Australia, Solomon Islands $2995
I didn’t go on this for several reasons: 1. I started in Brisbane (after 3 months in Australia) and ended in Majuro Marshall Islands and the cheapest way home to Canada via Honolulu. My itinerary put Nauru in the middle to ensure the visa.
2. I had already been to Palau (7-day liveaboard, the best diving in the world, jellyfish lake), Guam, New Zealand, and Australia and YPT missed Vanuatu and Solomon Islands as I would not have gone on Group 4.
3. Preference on booking was given to those going on all four groups and it sold out within a few days, so I would have been excluded immediately (that’s what happened to Natalie Leis).
4. Expensive especially with a single supplement.
It is difficult to compare my costs to the YPT trip but my best guess is that YPT costs US$8900 (allowing $1500 Palau and Guam). My cost is US$6,000. $7000 adding Solomons and Vanuatu which is not in the YPT price, It is cheaper to go independently.
All the prices in my post are in AUD – 1US$ = 1.55AUD.
Visas are for a Canadian passport (Nauru was the only visa). See all the details on my website https://www.ronperrier.net/2023/08/01/south-pacific/ 189/193, 193/197
Neither price includes the beginning (YPT to Palau, me Brisbane to Solomons) and end flights (YPT from Solomons, me Marshall Islands to Comox, BC Canada via Honolulu).
Fiji Airlines. Flies from Nadi, Fiji (NAN) to Vanuatu, Nauru, Samoa, Tonga and from Suva (SUV) to Tuvalu.
Talofa Airways. Apia (APW) Samoa to Pago Pago (PPG) American Samoa.
Nauru Airlines Pacific Island Hopper. Originates from Brisbane (BNE) and flies to Nauru (INU), Tarawa (TRW) Kiribati, Majuro (MAJ) Marshall Islands, Pohnpei (PNI) Micronesia and Palau (a new destination added Dec 2023).
United Airlines Island Hopper flies between US and quasi-US islands – East to West on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and West to East on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Honolulu (HNL) Hawaii – Majuro (MAJ) Marshall Islands – Kwajalein (KWA, a US air base with restricted entry) – Kosrae (KSA) – Pohnpei (PNI) and Chuuk (TKK) Micronesia – Guam (GUM) and vice versa. 14.5 hours. Leaves in the early morning and terminates in the evening, with a 40-minute stop on each island. United Hopper flights increase in price one month before – my MAJ-Honolulu (HNL) flight increased from CA$1,181 to 1,481.
Another Itinerary: Philippines > Palau > Guam > Micronesia > Marshall Islands on United Hopper, then Kiribati > Nauru > Fiji on Nauru Airlines, then Tonga, Tuvalu, Samoa (American Samoa on Talofa) on Fiji Airlines. Fiji > Vanuatu > Solomons > Brisbane on Fiji and Solomon Airlines. One can fly almost anywhere in the world from the Philippines, Fiji, and Brisbane.
Best time to come to the South Pacific. I went Dec 8-Jan 10, and this is clearly not the best time. This tropical rainforest climate is hot (above 32 °C), humid (80%) and rainy. The tropical cyclone season is December–April can disrupt plans. Car rentals and flights book out very early over Christmas – do as early as you can.
SOLOMON ISLANDS Dec 8-11
Visa. Visa on arrival.
Money. SBD (Solomon Island Dollar). 1US$ = 8.47SBD. ATM at airport
Flight. Solomon Airlines (flysolomons.com). Brisbane (BNE) – Honiara (HIR) A$526.
Get around. From airport share van 5SBD (taxi 100SBD).
Accommodation: Chester Resthouse mbhches@solomon.com.sb – fan/shared BR 330SBD/night (A$60.28), with AC 750.
Phone. Our Telekom SIM almost any store.
See. Honiara on Guadalcanal Island (National Museum, Holy Cross Cathedral, Mataniko Falls, Guadalcanal WWII sites and memorials. Some of the most brutal World War II battles took place on the northern side of Guadalcanal. Visit Vilu War Museum, the American War Memorial, and the Japanese War Memorial (Mt Austen). Most stores closed Sunday.
Flight. Solomon Airlines (HIR) – Port Vila (VLI) A$601.70
VANUATU Dec 11-12
Visa. Visa on arrival
Money. Vatu (VUV). 1US$ = 122VUV. ATM at airport.
Flights. Solomon Airlines Honiara (HIR) – Port Vila (VLI) A$601.70
From airport share van (red B on license plate) 100 m from airport into Port Vila.
Phone. +678. Digicel SIM at airport
Accommodation. Janesse’s Dwellery, Port Vila. vjbetleng@gmail.com +678 5321587 A$68/night, 4-minute walk from the airport, great place.
Get Around. Share vans in Port Vila cheap. Rented scooter E-bikes A$95 for one day.
See. Port Vila (National Museum of Vanuatu, Cathedral of the Sacred Heart). Underwater and Volcano Post Boxes on Hideaway Island (20,000 Vatu to access island). Chief Roi Mata’s Domain WHS. On Efate, Artok (Hat) and Lelepa Islands.
Flight. Air Vanuatu VIJ–Nadi, Fiji (NAN) A$393.90
Tana Island. (I didn’t go) Climb Mt Yasur. Visit the caldera rim at Levels 0 and 1 but not at Levels 2, 3 or 4. Hot so evening is advised. Tours drive to just below the rim, 15-minute walk up a sandy trail, fee. AirTaxi has many tour options.
FIJI Dec 12-29 with breaks to go to Tuvalu, Tonga, Samoa.
Visa. Visitor permit on arrival.
Money. Fijian Dollar (FJD). 1US$ = 2.28FJD ATM at airport. Credit cards widely accepted.
Flights. All on Fiji Airlines. Nadi (NAN), Suva (SUV) VIJ-NAN. A$393.90
Phone. +679 SIM at airport.
Accommodation. Book hostels early. Bluewater Lodge A$22/night (a great hostel. I stayed here Dec 12-13, 16-17, 21, 25)
Get Around. Fiji Airways. Public buses easy and cheap from airport. Rented car (Europcar) on Vitu Levu Dec 26-28.
Tuvalu NAN-SUV/SUV-FUN. The Dec 14 flight to FUN was cancelled after Tuvalu Airport runway developed 3 cracks after a heavy rain and reopened on Dec 18.
See Nadi (Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple) Suva (Capital, Suva Fiji Temple, Sacred Heart Cathedral, Grand Pacific Hotel, Thurston Gardens, Fiji Museum).
Tonga Dec 18-21. NAN-TBU and TBU-NAN
Samoa Dec 22-25. NAN-APW and APW-NAN
See Dec 26-28 Rental car. Sigatoka Sand Dunes NP, Tavuni Hill Fort, Savurua Botanical Garden, Wainuta Falls, Sovi Basin, Bilo Battery WWII site, Colo-I-Suva Forest Park. Levuka Historical Port Town WHS (former capital of Fiji, colonial port town, Sacred Heart Church. Ferry – Venu Shipping (+679 7081847) Natovi Landing to Levuka, Ovalau Island 2½ hours. Nat-Lev 11 am Tue-Sat. Lev-Nat 7 am Mon, Wed-Sat. ON Old Capital Inn, Levuka. Lautoka (Lautoka Botanical Garden, Lautoka Market), Garden of the Sleeping Giant, Koroyanitu NP, Orchid Falls.
Flight. Dec 29 Nauru Airlines NAN-Nauru (INU) A$657
TUVALU Dec 14-16
Visa. Visa on arrival $100 AUD. Onward tickets
Money. ONLY Australian $ bring cash. No ATMs, bad exchange rates at bank.
Accommodation. Filamona Hotel x 2 nights. filamonahotel@gmail.com A$105/night cash. A$210 total, no wifi.
SIM +674 Open 9-3 Saturday 12-2. Poor connection.
See. Funafuti. Funafuti Conservation Area (permit at Town Council building A$50, boat A$155), snorkel, walk to atoll, volleyball on airport runway, Teone Church Vaiaku, Everything closed Sat afternoon/Sun.
Flights. Fiji Airways from Suva. A$1003.53 return NOTE: MUST check in 48 h before as passengers often bumped due to gas shortage on Tuvalu or if baggage weight excessive. https://www.fijiairways.com/en-fj/manage/travel-alerts for online check-in.
NAN-SUV occurred but SUV-FUN was cancelled as Tuvalu had very heavy rains producing 3 cracks in the runway. The runway didn’t open until Dec 18 with reduced loads. I have resigned myself to never reaching 193 as it seems unlikely to come all this way just for Tuvalu.
TONGA Dec 18-21
Visa. Visa on arrival.
Money. Tongan Pa’anga (TOP). 1US$ = 2.39TOP. ATM at the airport
Flights. Nuku’alofa Airport (TBU). Fiji Airways. NAN-TBU and TPU-NAN A$729.50 return.
Accommodation. Toni’s Guesthouse A$32.39/night x 3 nights.
SIM. +676 Digicel at the airport (even at 1 am)
Stores. Everything closed Saturday noon to Sunday.
TONGATAPU Island. Nuku’alofa – capital.
See. Toni’s tour of Tongatapu (highly recommended) – Hufangalupe Sea Arch, Anahulu Cave (great swim), Haʻamonga ‘a Maui Historical Park (Tentative WHS), Paepae o Tele’a (royal tomb), flying foxes, three-headed coconut, Tsunami Rock, Mapu’a Vaea Blowholes, Tonga Museum, Free Church of Tonga (destroyed), Talamahu Market
SAMOA Dec 22-25
Visa. Visitor’s permit upon arrival.
Money. Samoan Tala (WST). 1US$ = 2.78WST. ATM airport.
Flight. Apia Airport (APW) Fiji Airways. NAN-APW and APW-NAN A$1,044.20 return
Accommodation. Eddie’s Guesthouse (AirBnB) x 3 nights.
Phone. +685. SIM at airport
Get around. Hitchhiking easy. Taxi to and from airport.
UPOLU Island Apia capital
See Baha’i House of Worship, Shrine of Three Hearts, Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, Immaculate Conception of Mary Cathedral, Aggie Grey’s.
I was unable to rent a car and missed seeing Lalomanu Beach, Lalomanu Church (CCCS Chapel), To Sua Ocean Trench O Le Pupi-Pua NP, Papapapaitai Falls (100m high, cascading into a deep gorge), and Lanoto’o Lake, Lady of the Rosary and the Methodist churches.
NAURU Dec 29-Jan 1
Visa. There are 3 categories of visa: 1. Some visa free, 2. Most Western countries that don’t need the criminal record and health check and 3. those that do need those.
Email Cramer Cain cramer.cain@brisbane.gov.nr and request a visa application form, a list of all documents required, payment details and hotels. Applications are submitted via email to Cramer Cain who submits them to immigration who issues an entry permit letter.
1. Nauru visa application form 2. Passport bio page. 3. Flights inbound & outbound. 4. Hotel booking. 5. Source of funds. 6. COVID-19 vaccination record. 7. Visa fee proof of payment AUD$50. Pay with Wise. Processing time 1-4 weeks.
Money. Australian dollar (AUD). Credit cards common, several ATMS.
Flight. Nauru Airlines. NAN-INU and INU–TRW A$350.50.
Accommodation. Menen Hotel A$157/night x 3 nights. Checked in 12 hours early for free.
Phone. +674. Digicel SIM at Menen Hotel SIM A$20 2GB $21
Get around. Hitchhiking easy. Community bus every hour and not very useful. Walking best in early morning as very hot.
See. 19km Island Ring Road circles the island walk in 5 hours. Swim at Anibare Beach still rocky, Shop at Capelle & Partner, WWII Memorial, Buada Lagoon (the only fresh water on the island, dirty can’t swim. Take the road opposite the Od-N-Aiwo Hotel, go left at Y). Climb Command Ridge (Nauru’s highest point with gun batteries), Orro Congregational Church, Boe (stained glass). YAREN. Plane spotting from Yaren Airport, Nauru Museum, Parliament House. Explore phosphate field. Everything closed on Sunday.
KIRIBATI Gilbert Islands (Tarawa) Jan 1-5
Visa. Visa on arrival
Money. Australian dollar. ATMs common. No credit cards, only cash.
Flight. Nauru Airlines Tawara (TRW). INU–TRW A$350.50
Accommodation. Utirerei Hotel. info@utirereihotel.com +686 675022530 A$90/night x 4 nights. Central location. Free airport transfers, breakfast, hot showers, wifi A$5/GB
Phone. +686. Vodafone SIM outside airport (I didn’t get one)
Get Around. No taxis. Rent car or motorbike. I hitchhiked easily everywhere. Air Kiribati
Do. Read “Sex Lives of Cannibals” all about Kiribati, very funny.
See South Atoll (Betio Island – most of the WW2 relics, Parliament Building. Te Umanbong Museum, Borriki Reservoir.
Guide. mollybrown413@gmail.com. +686 73001016. Not necessary.
Flight. Nauru Airlines TRW–PNI A$609
FEDERATED STATES of MICRONESIA Jan 5-8
Visa. Entry permit on arrival. Onward ticket.
Money. US$
Flight. Pohnpei Airport (PNI). Nauru Airlines TRW–PNI A$609
Phone. Country code +69. I didn’t get a SIM.
Accommodation. Mangrove Hotel – mangrovebayhotel@gmail.com – US$120/night. A$537.50. Great restaurant (try the spicy poki and the many kinds of sushi)
Pohnpei Surf Club is on-site for tours, snorkelling and diving. Renting a car from Mangrove is much cheaper than tours.
POHNPEI Palikir capital
See. Nan Madol Ceremonial Centre of Eastern Micronesia. WHS. Don’t miss this as the high walls made of basalt column are amazing.
Kepirohi Waterfall near Nan Madol. $10
Sokehs Ridge trail, a 3-hour hike up Sokehs Rock, a massive rock outcropping for a panoramic view of Pohnpei and WW2 era Japanese guns.
Flight. United Airlines PNI-MAJ Marshall Islands A$756
I didn’t go to any other outer islands but included for information.
YAP. The main atoll is four high volcanic islands. Colonia, state capital.
Flight. (YAP). United Airlines Hopper. It is not possible to fly directly to Yap from other islands in the FSM – must fly through Guam.
Do. Beaches few, swimming and snorkelling poor. Diving good.
CHUUK Chuuk Lagoon.
Flight (TKK). United Airlines Hopper from Guam and Pohnpei.
Do. Wreck diving – two liveaboards.
KOSRAE Flight. Kosrae (KSA). United Airlines Hopper
MARSHALL ISLANDS (Majuro, Kwajalein, Bikini) Jan 8-10
Independent since 1986 under a Compact of Free Association with the US. 70,000 people, 29 atolls, 24 inhabited, no spectacular sights,
Visa. Visa upon arrival. Onward ticket
Flight. Majuro (MAJ). United Airlines PNI-MAJ A$756
Money. US$
Phone. +692 I didn’t get a SIM
Accommodation. Dave’s Condo on the Beach (AirBnB) A$217/2 nights
See. Majuro, Ratak Chain. Capital. Alele Museum, Cathedral of the Assumption, Marshall Islands War Memorial Park.
Bikini Atoll Nuclear Test Site WHS. See sunken ships and a huge crater formed by the 1954 Castle Bravo test. Very difficult and expensive to see – only by boat on 2-week cruise starting on Kwajalein.
Flight. United Airlines (MAJ) to Honolulu (HNL) CA$1,461. HNL-YQQ CA$177.
Note crossing the International Dateline and lose a day makes booking hotels interesting.
HOME Note crossing the International Dateline and lose a day
Flight. Jan 10. United Airlines (MAJ) to Honolulu (HNL) @19:45-02:40+1, public bus 1 hour into city.
Accommodation. Waikiki Beach Hostel Jan 11 US$65 x1 night
See. 2 days in Honolulu. 17 NM sites.
Flights. Westjet Jan 12. WXLHKA Westjet WS1867 HNL-YCC @23:40-08:47+1
Jan 13 14’39” layover in Calgary, saw several cousins. WS309 YYC-YQQ @23:25-00:08+1 (Sun Jan 14) CA$177.39