SOLOMONS – SOUTH (Guadalcanal, Malaita, San Cristobal, Central)
RENNELL
East Rennell is an important site for the science of island biogeography, being a stepping stone between Papua New Guinea and the Pacific islands. It is one of the most remote, and difficult to visit world heritage sites on Earth.
East Rennell makes up the southern third of Rennell Island, the southernmost island in the Solomon Island group in the western Pacific. Rennell, 86 km long x 15 km wide, is the largest raised coral atoll in the world. The site includes approximately 37,000 ha and a marine area extending 3 nautical miles to sea.
A major feature of the island is Lake Tegano, which was the former lagoon on the atoll. The lake, the largest in the insular Pacific (15,500 ha), is brackish, 100 m above sea level, and contains many rugged limestone islands and endemic species, such as the banded sea snake. The lake is home to the widest diversity of birds in the Pacific. There are also 10 endemic plant species. It has huge artesian springs, some hidden in little inlets under the forest canopy, others more visible. Islands dot the lake.
Rennell is mostly covered with dense forest, with a canopy averaging 20 m in height. Combined with the strong climatic effects of frequent cyclones, the site is a true natural laboratory for scientific study.
It is listed as in danger. The threat of logging on Rennell Island continues to deplete the outstanding natural value of the island. Prior to the logging problems, mining and commercial fishing were curtailed.
It is the only location that is owned by customary land ownership. The people of Rennell are Polynesian, whereas the rest of the Solomons are Melanesian. The remoteness of the island, coupled with the 100m cliffs surrounding the island, and the customary land ownership has protected the island from logging and mining, whereas the rest of the Solomons has been severely deforested.
There are several villages that surround the lake and most of the island. The villagers use powerboats as a means of transport and for fishing. The villagers lead a relatively remote and simple life.
Get In. Fly from Honiara to Rennell on Solomon Airlines (flights are a few times a week). Then drive to Lake Tegano – 20 miles on an unpaved rugged road made of raised coral that dates back to World War II (high likelihood of several flat tires). This is the most expensive part of the trip, as getting cars and fuel on the island can be very expensive. Once you reach the lake you have to take a boat to one of the lodges which are on the other side of the lake. Expect the trip to take the better part of an entire day. Getting here is neither easy nor cheap.
Get Away. Be sure to leave ample time to get back to your flight out. This weekly flight is in itself is an occasion, interrupting the children playing on the strip, not to mention the ducks wading in the puddles!
Well worth the visit and not to be missed. The lodge apparently closed down at one time.
SOLOMON ISLANDS NORTH (S. Isabel, New Georgia, Choiseul Islands)
NEW GEORGIA. New Georgia itself plus myriad tiny islands and atolls. Noro. Munda.
Marovo Lagoon. Tentative WHS Marovo – Tetepare Complex (23/12/2008).
The largest saltwater lagoon in the World is located in the New Georgia Islands, 700 square km, and is protected by a double barrier reef system. Has an Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin. Many islands, some inhabited. The people are skilled carvers. Popular diving and a tourism hub. Get in on an hourly flight from Honiara or 10 hours on a weekly ferry.
Arnavon Community Marine Conservation Area
Kolombangara Forest Reserve. On Kolombangara Island, a dormant volcano with very high biodiversity and the Dughore people. Experience rainforest walks, birdwatching, river and cloud forest walking and swimming, and rugged cloud-forest walks. Kolombangara volcano is a 2-day hike to the top .
Skull Island shrines. A tiny islet accessible from Lola Island is one of the most sacred areas in the Solomon Islands. It is visited by tourists and offers an insight to the history of headhunting. It also has a shrine that houses the skulls of vanquished Rendovan chiefs.
Ontong Java Atoll or Luangiua is one of the largest atolls on earth. Geographically it belongs to a scattered group of three atolls near Papua New Guinea which includes nearby Nukumanu Atoll and the wholly submerged Roncador Reef located 75 kilometres (47 miles) to the south. It is 1,400 km2 (540 sq mi) with only 12 km2 (4.6 sq mi) of land, spread out over 122 small islands. The islands are mostly low-lying coral formations, the highest elevation being 13 m (43 ft). Approximately 2,000 people live on the atoll. There are two main villages where the population is concentrated with 1,386 on the island of Luaniua in the eastern end and 689 on Pelau in the northeast.
GIZO (on the small island of Ghizo)
Gizo Airport (GZO)
St. Peter the Apostle Catholic Cathedral
SANTA ISABLE. Where the first European contact was made with the Solomon Islands. Buala.
VANGUNU
VELLA LAVELLA
RANONGGA
CHOISEUL. The northernmost area; includes the Treasury Islands and Shortland Islands (XL, M@P)
SOLOMON ISLANDS – TEMOTU PROVINCE (Santa Cruz Islands)
Tiny remote islands in the southeast, closer to Vanuatu than anywhere else in the Solomons
M@P:
Anuta, Fatutaka and Tikopia islands
Duff and Reef islands
XL: Vanikoro.
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HISTORY
The Solomon Islands are believed to have been inhabited by Melanesian people for thousands of years. Papuan-speaking settlers arrived around 30,000 BC. Austronesian speakers arrived circa 4,000 BC also bringing cultural elements such as the outrigger canoe. Between 1,200 and 800 BC, the ancestors of the Polynesians, the Lapita people, arrived from the Bismarck Archipelago with their characteristic ceramics.
The first European to visit the islands was the Spanish navigator Álvaro de Mendaña de Neira, coming from Peru in 1568. The people of the Solomon Islands were notorious for headhunting and cannibalism before the arrival of the Europeans. Missionaries began visiting the Solomons in the mid-19th century. They made little progress at first, because “blackbirding” (the often brutal recruitment of labourers for the sugar plantations in Queensland and Fiji) led to a series of reprisals and massacres. The evils of the labour trade prompted the United Kingdom to declare a protectorate over the southern Solomons in June 1893.
In the Second World War, there was fierce fighting between the Americans and the Japanese in the Solomon Islands campaign of 1942–45, including the Battle of Guadalcanal. Self-government was achieved in 1976 and independence two years later. The Solomon Islands is a constitutional monarchy with the Queen of the Solomon Islands, at present Charles III, as the head of state.
In 1998, ethnic violence, government misconduct, and crime undermined stability and society. In June 2003, an Australian-led multinational force, the Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands (RAMSI), arrived and restored peace, disarmed ethnic militias, and improved civil governance. It has also led to the development of facilities catering to the expatriate workers.
Geography. The Solomon Islands is a wide island nation and the distance between the westernmost and easternmost islands is about 1,500km (930 mi). The Santa Cruz Islands (of which Tikopia is part), are situated north of Vanuatu and are especially isolated at more than 200km (120 mi) from the other islands. Bougainville is geographically part of the Solomon Islands, but politically an autonomous region of Papua New Guinea.
The Solomon Islands archipelago is part of two distinct terrestrial ecoregions. Most of the islands are part of the Solomon Islands rain forests ecoregion. These forests have come under great pressure from forestry activities. The Santa Cruz Islands are part of the Vanuatu rain forests ecoregion, together with the neighbouring archipelago of Vanuatu. More than 230 varieties of orchids and other tropical flowers occur. The islands contain several active and dormant volcanoes with Tinakula and Kavachi being the most active. The highest point is Mount Makarakomburu, at 2,447 meters. Many low lying coral atolls dot the region.
Climate. The islands’ ocean-equatorial climate is extremely humid throughout the year, with a mean temperature of 27 °C (80 °F) and few extremes of temperature or weather. June through August is the cooler period. Though seasons are not pronounced, the northwesterly winds of November through April bring more frequent rainfall and occasional squalls or cyclones. The annual rainfall is about 3050 mm (120 in).
SEE
The Solomons have all the great attractions of Melanesia on offer. Idyllic island scenery with perfect sandy beaches and splendid nature in the form of rainforest, lagoons, and waterfalls. For those who like to dive, underwater life is as stunning as that above. There’s an abundance of wildlife to discover and amazing, colourful cultural traditions to see.
DO
Scuba Diving. One of the most popular activities. As part of the Coral Triangle, the Solomons offers some of the best diving in the south Pacific. There is one local operator in Honiara offering day trips to the nearby islands and shore dives to the very popular Bonegi Beach. In addition, two liveaboard operators offer trips varying in length from 7 to 14 days exploring more remote areas in the Solomons. There are also operators in Munda, Gizo and Uepi along with a number of small operations scattered among the remote islands. A good source of information is the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau.
GET AROUND
Air. Solomon Airlines is currently the only airline offering domestic flights within the Solomon Islands. They have a fleet of 5 planes for domestic services which include a ‘Dash 8’, two ‘Twin Otters’ and two ‘Islander’ aircraft. All aircraft are based at the Honiara Domestic Airport which is located five minutes walk from the international airport at Henderson. The Airport is accessible from the city centre for a capped rate of $100.00 for a taxi. There is also a shuttle bus service which services all the main accommodation for $75.00 per person.
Flights depart for Munda and Gizo in the Western Province daily, whilst other locations are generally serviced less frequently.
Tickets can be booked online at flysolomons.com or there are ticketing offices at Point Cruz and Panatina Plaza in Honiara or at each regional airport.
Sea. Due to the layout of the country, Solomon Islanders are very used to travelling by sea and in most cases this is seemingly the preferred method of travel. While this may not be the fastest way to get to your destination, voyages by sea can be scenic and take you through lesser-travelled areas. As most offer quite basic amenities, they are also considerably cheaper than travelling by air.
While the vast majority of ships are incredibly basic by western standards, all have toilets and usually a basic canteen selling snacks and drinks. Safety equipment is mandatory for all commercial vessels in the Solomon Islands so each vessel should be equipped with appropriate materials and abide by loading requirements. Although there may be some seating available, most passengers will find a space on the floor and roll out a mat to claim an area to sleep during the journey. Due to their mixed role as passenger and freight carriers, most ships may spend a while at various ports during a journey to load and offload. While this can create delays, it also invites the opportunity to take a walk around the area and perhaps buy some fresh fruit or BBQ fish from a market.
Cargo ships run to virtually every province from Honiara and the price is sometimes just a fraction of the price of flying. To most places ships will run every week but to more remote provinces (Temotu) every two weeks or so. As opposed to passenger ships, cargo ships are slower, stopping at more ports, picking up cargo, which allows time for wandering, socializing and enjoying the views. Schedules are virtually non-existent, but Honiara’s port is a good place to start asking. Information seems to be spread by word of mouth. Ask for telephone number and reconfirm again and again.
An exception to the rule, there are a small number of ships which provide a superior service, aimed primarily at higher quality passenger only transport. These ships include:
360 Discovery A former Auckland Harbour ferry which provides an almost daily fast ferry service to Auki in Malaita, often via Tulagi in Ngella (Central Province). There is a canteen onboard, toilets and flat screen tv with movies. Tickets can be purchased from either the ship or their office in Point Cruz near the Lime Lounge Cafe. In 2012 the fare as S$300 one way or S$580 return. Boarding is at 7:30am for an 8am departure, reaching Auki at around 12:30pm.
Auki Ferry This runs most days from Honiara Wharf to Auki on the island of Malaita across the Slot from Honiara. In 2012 the fare as S$300 one way or S$580 return. The ferry travels through the Florida Islands channel which is worth seeing and there’s a high chance you’ll see plenty of flying fish if you look off the front or sides of the boat. The catamaran ferry is a former Auckland Harbour ferry so is not designed to be ocean-going. This means that when it’s rough, it’s rough so be prepared. The ferry has plenty of comfortable seating, air conditioning, and a big flat screen which shows films during the journey. You can buy drinks and snacks on the ferry although it’s best to buy this on the way out from Honiara as supplies run low once the boat is heading back. There is a toilet. Boarding is at 7:30 a.m. for an 8 a.m. departure. Buy your ticket from a vehicle parked outside the jetty gate in the wharf car park. It’ll be the one swamped with people getting tickets at 7:30 a.m. The boat stops in [Tulagi] (9:30 am) in Florida Islands and leaves ten minutes later for Poromole (arr. 10:30) which has a beautiful beach and water. It reaches Auki at 12:30 and leaves to return to Honiara via the same route at 2 p.m. (boarding from 1:30 pm). Return to Poromole is 3:30 pm and Tulagi at 4:30 pm before arrival in Honiara at sunset or around 6 pm.
Pelican Express provides a regular fast ferry service to Auki. There is indoor and outdoor seating, toilets, a canteen, and flat screen tv with movies. Ticket options include first or second class, first-class seating is on the top level and is a little less crowded. Bring some warm clothes as the air conditioning works a little too well. Tickets can be purchased from the ship or their office in Point Cruz near the Lime Lounge Cafe. Note that this service is subject to calm seas and weather conditions and can be canceled (sometimes even when the journey has already commenced) if conditions are not favourable.
To the western province. One of the most popular and scenic routes is between Gizo and Honiara. Most ships will make a stopover in Noro (for Munda which doesn’t have a deep sea wharf) and Seghe. As of September 2017, three ferries operate this route: MV Fair Glory, Kosko (a cargo ship making many stops), and MV Anjeanette. Prices vary between 300 and 500 SBD one way so ask around. Cancellations and delays are common.
MV Fair Glory, a large and sturdy passenger vessel providing the only service with private tourist cabin accommodation on board. Fair Glory travels weekly to both Auki and Gizo (via Seghe, Ughele, and Noro ports). Trips to the Western Province depart every Sunday morning at 9 arriving in Gizo before lunch on Monday. The ship then departs Gizo for Honiara on Tuesday mornings. Prices for tickets vary depending on the seating class. A one-way ticket to Seghe is 350SBD and a cabin to Seghe costs 1490 SBD as of September 2017. To ship will reach Seghe at midnight on Sunday. Although cabin prices include 2 pax, in early 2013 quoted prices for a cabin for the Honiara-Gizo journey were similar to that of two one-way tickets on the Solomon Airlines service to Gizo. ‘
MV Anjeanette is a cargo ship similar to MV Fair Glory. It departs Honiara for Gizo on Saturday evening and departs from Gizo to Honiara on Monday.
Bring a mat for sleeping and a jacket for all sea travel.
Talk. The islands are home to more than 120 indigenous Melanesian languages, with most citizens speaking the local Melanesian Pidgin as a lingua franca. English is the official language but spoken by only 1 or 2% of the population.
MONEY
ATMs are available in Honiara. Australian dollars are accepted at some hotels and resorts.
The bulk of the population depends on agriculture, fishing, and forestry for at least part of their livelihood. Most manufactured goods and petroleum products must be imported. The islands are rich in undeveloped mineral resources such as lead, zinc, nickel, and gold. However, severe ethnic violence, the closing of key business enterprises, and an empty government treasury have led to serious economic disarray, indeed near collapse. Tanker deliveries of crucial fuel supplies (including those for electrical generation) have become sporadic due to the government’s inability to pay and attacks against ships. Telecommunications are threatened by the nonpayment of bills and by the lack of technical and maintenance staff, many of whom have left the country.
STAY SAFE
While not as bad as neighboring Papua New Guinea, crime rates in the Solomon Islands are high. Travel after dark is dangerous, especially in Honiara, and muggers have been known to target tourists at the Japanese War Memorial on Mt Austin even in broad daylight.
Ethnic tension between Guales (residents of Guadalcanals) and Malaitans, as well as between everybody and the Chinese, continue to simmer. Australian troops have been in place since 2003 to keep things in check, but this did not prevent violent rioting in Honiara in 2006 from destroying large parts of the city.
Health
Malaria is the biggest health issue in the Solomon Islands. Travellers to the area should take anti-malarial pills before, during and after their stay.
Saltwater Crocodiles are relatively common (in comparison to other islands in the South Pacific) in the Solomon Islands and great care should be taken while in or near any body of water. Knowledge is the best defense for yourself and for the protection of the crocs themselves. While by no means anywhere even close to crocodile levels in both Northern Australia and New Guinea, the population is still considered relatively healthy on the Solomons in comparison to much of the species’ Southeast Asian range. This is especially true of the islands closest to New Guinea, which hold the highest populations in the Solomons.
Connect. Although not expensive, mobile internet is very slow. Free prepaid SIM cards are available from Our Telekom and BMobile. Be aware that BMobile is the cheapest, but has also a less extensive coverage (e.g., not in the Marovo Lagoon). Some places in Honiara will have free wifi (Lime Lounge and Coral Sea Resort for example).
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Borders: Solomon Islands (sea border/port)
Solomon Islands – North (S. Isabel, New Georgia, Choiseul)
NOMAD MANIA Solomon Islands – North (S. Isabel, New Georgia, Choiseul)
M@P: Shortland islands
Tentative WHS
Marovo – Tetepare Complex (23/12/2008)
Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Solomon Islands (23/12/2008)
Islands
Choiseul
New Georgia
Ranongga
Santa Isabel
Vangunu
Vella Lavella
XL: Shortland Islands
Airports: Gizo (GZO)
Religious Temples: Gizo: St. Peter the Apostle Catholic Cathedral
World of Nature
Arnavon Community Marine Conservation Area
Kolombangara Forest Reserve
Marovo Lagoon
Festivals
Lagoon Festival
Vatateke Festival of the Sea
The Dark Side: Skull island shrines
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Solomon Islands – South (Guadalcanal, Malaita, San Cristobal, Central)
NOMAD MANIA Solomon Islands – South (Guadalcanal, Malaita, San Cristobal, Central)
M@P: Rennell and Bellona province
Tentative WHS: Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Solomon Islands (23/12/2008)
World Heritage Sites: East Rennell
Islands
Guadalcanal
Malaita
Rennell
San Cristobal (Makira)
Museums: Guadalcanal: Vilu War Museum
World of Nature: Langa Langa Lagoon
Lakes: Lake Tengano
Festivals
Annual Trade and Cultural Show
Spear Dancing Festival
The Dark Side
Guadalcanal WWII sites and memorials
World Discoverer Shipwreck
Cities of Asia and Oceania
HONIARA World City and Popular Town World Capital
Airports: Honiara (HIR)
Museums: National Museum
Religious Temples: Holy Cross Cathedral
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Solomon Islands – Temotu Province (Santa Cruz Islands)
NOMAD MANIA Solomon Islands – Temotu Province (Santa Cruz Islands)
M@P:
Anuta, Fatutaka and Tikopia islands
Duff and Reef islands
Islands: Santa Cruz islands (main group)
XL: Vanikoro