MSC CRUISES Lesser Antilles
Grenada March 18, 2022
Grenada is a group of three larger islands (Grenada, Carriacou, and Petite Martinique) and several tiny islands in the Caribbean. It lies just north of Trinidad and Tobago, and southwest of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. It is famous for spices and is known as the “Spice Isle”, being a major source of nutmeg, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, vanilla and cocoa.
Capital: St George’s
Currency: East Caribbean dollar “$” or “EC$” (XCD)US$1 ≈ EC$2.7 (pegged).
Population: 197,800
Language. English and English-based Creole.
Country Code: +1473
Visa Most western countries visa free.
Covid. No tests required and independent tours offered. They are getting rid of thier mask mandate next week.
GRENADINES
Grenadines Island Group. Tentative WHS (18/11/2013). 35 small islands between Grenada and St. Vincent in the Windward Islands of the Lesser Antilles. They stretch over a distance of 90 km from the Island of London Bridge in the south to Bequia in the north. Geographically, the area lies along the interface of the Caribbean and South American Tectonic plates. Several active undersea mounts (e.g. Kick’em Jenny) attest to the on-going movement of these plates.
The international boundary between Grenada and St. Vincent and the Grenadines runs east to west across the bank between Petit Martinique and Petit St. Vincent. Links are historically strong and continue to be active. Fishing, informal trade, tourism and island social life proceed with little attention to the boundary.
Nine (9) islands have permanent settlements. The largest islands – Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, Union I., Petit Martiniéue and Carriacou, have towns and communities with public (schools, clinics, utilities) and private supporting infrastructure. Others are resort islands- Palm I, Petit St. Vincent. Most others are visited by yachters and fishers: 1.Petit Martinique 2. Petite Tobago 3. Carriacou 4. Saline Island 5. Frigate Island 6. Large Island 7. Diamond Island 8. Les Tantes 9. Ronde Island 10. Caille Island 11. London Bridge
The islands of the Grenadines range from rocky volcanic headlands to tiny cays that barely rise above sea level. The largest islands are Carriacou (3400 ha) and Bequia in St. Vincent (1800 ha). Although many of the islands are inhabited and used for agriculture and the surrounding waters for commercial fishing, much of the area still exists in a relatively undisturbed condition.
CARRIACOU
90-minute ferry ride on the Osprey fast ferry: departs 9am and returns to Georgetown at 3:30pm – $31 one way or a 20 minute flight on SVG Air to Carriacou. (Return: 160 EC$ – I gave a US$100 and received a 100EC$ back)
We arrived in George Town at 07:15, had breakfast and walked to the ferry terminal about 15 minutes through the tunnel and around the corniche. The ferry didn’t finish loading until 09:35 and arrived in Carriacou at Argyll Bay at 11:20.
It is 5.7 km to Carriacou town (share taxi 3.50 EC$). I had a delicious banana/chocolate/peanut smoothie (12 EC$), chatted with the women there and saw the ”sights”.
Carriacou Museum. In the back of a store, the small room has a some history and a few artifacts with little of interest. 15 EC$
Old Sugar Mill. 2.6km above Carriacoa, I took a share bus to the Belair Windmill, one of eight that powered cotton, corn and sugar mills on the island, two on the Belair Estate. Built by enslaved Africans in the 1770s, this one was used for cotton (the primary crop grown on the estate until the early 19th century) and corn. The sister tower at the top of Belair was used for sugar where the sugar works are, but there is little left here. I decided to walk down which turned out to be a good decision as not one share bus came by. I had another smoothie and caught the bus back to the ferry.
Near the ferry is Paradise Beach, the main snorkelling beach. Apparently the visibility was poor (high tides and wind) and there was little to see. There was a group of veterinary students on the boat
Petite Martinique. XL . Ferry also goes here from Carriacou 7:15am and 2:15pm $8
GRENADA
St. GEORGE’S ‘
ST. GEORGE FORTIFIED SYSTEM. Tentative WHS (05/08/2004). Although a fort from the period of initial European settlement was already in existence the true start was Fort George (1706-1710) which then gradually evolved on the ridges of the hills that enclose St. George’s and its natural harbour like a giant amphitheatre. In its heydays the system consisted of eight forts, designed to mitigate internal Amerindian attacks and slave uprisings, as well as external European rival invasions. At the time of their establishment, each fort progressively incorporated the latest design concepts to facilitate advancing technological achievements of the period, showing today the development of French .and British military engineering adjusted to Grenadian circumstances.
The three major forts of the system have been preserved to the present day. Fort George is associated with all the periods of Grenada’s history up to its contemporary period, as the execution of Prime Minister Maurice Bishop in October 1983 was carried out at Fort George. The fort currently houses the Police Headquarters and Police Training School. Fort Frederick is restored and is open to the public. Fort Matthew was converted into a lunatic asylum to serve the entire Windward Island in 1880 and was abandoned in 1987 when a new asylum at Mt. Gay was opened. It is currently in a bad state of repair. The other military structures have either disappeared or fallen to ruins.
Fort Frederick. Constructed by the French in 1779, Fort Frederick was soon used by the British, although it never fired a cannon in anger. It’s the island’s best-preserved fort with short tunnels at the base. Atop Richmond Hill at the center of St. George’s, Fort Frederick is a bastion type fort, which offers a 360 view of St. George’s.
Fort George. Built in 1706 – 1710, it was renamed Fort George in 1763, in honour of King George III when the British took possession of the island. It is basically a small bastion tracer fort, once the heart of the town. Currently, it houses the Royal Grenada Police force, but has sections which are open to the public.
There is a viewing section towards the inner harbour with plaques showing the important landmarks, and several of the old cannons. The stroll up to the fort from town is a bit of a climb. While it may not have the God’s eye view of Fort Frederick, see and feel a living fort which has not outlived its usefulness to this day. Access from next to the exit to the Sendall tunnel via steps.
Inside are some fallen down buildings, microwave towers and buildings that appear to be lived in. $2
GEORGE HISTORIC DISTRICT.Tentative WHS (05/08/2004). The urban pattern consists of a planned part and an unplanned part, separated by the ridge of a mountain with Church Street, the spine of St George’s. The planned part is a grid system with a central square after fires razed the town in 1771 and 1775, requiring buildings to be made of brick or masonry with clay tile roofs and laid out as detached units instead of row houses. Also Georgian architecture adjusted to Caribbean circumstances
The unplanned part has been shaped by the natural harbour of St George’s and the contour lines of the surrounding hills from the early nineteenth century onwards. Historic buildings here are wood in a vernacular Caribbean style.
Grenada National Museum. The door was open and I walked in to an empty museum (except for some old sewing machines). I was then informed it was closed.
St. George’s Anglican Church. A lovely church with a wood ceiling and wood beams.
St.Andrew’s Presbyterian Church. Under construction, only the original clock/bell tower remains. A reinforced concrete church is being constructed.
St. George’s Market Square. A confusing market with mainly produce. Not very attractive.
St. John’s River. In north St George’s, it is south of the cricket stadium (saved as Green Bridge)
I didn’t see any of the following.
St. George’s University. The School of Medicine opened in 1976 and its True Blue campus features breathtaking panoramic views of the south of island and is ideal for sunset viewing.
Underwater Sculptures, Molinere Bay. Bizzarium. Designed in 2007 by British sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor, it has been listed as one of the Top 25 Wonders of the World by National Geographic. Taylor’s objective wasn’t only artistic. He intended the sculpture to contribute to the environmental sustainability of the bay by offering a habitat for marine life, including corals, algae and sponges. The sculptures may have begun their life a single gray color, but over the years became a melange of pinks, greens, yellows and black. One of the delights of exploring the park is seeing the transformation of the sculptures as well as fish darting in and around them.
The life-size sculptures range from whimsical figures, such as a bicycle rider and a man sitting at a desk tapping away at a typewriter, to more poetic installations, including the female figures of “Grace Reef” who are at times hidden by the sand and then revealed again by the tides. One of the most emotionally impactful installations is a ring of life-size figures holding hands, titled “Vicissitudes.” The figures represent Grenadian schoolchildren and are now multicolored and covered with barnacles — thus making the vision more affecting than when first installed. Access via boat in guided tours to snorkel above the figures. Divers get an intimate look at the changes wrought by time and the sea.
14 new sculptures include “The Silent Cry” by Rene Froehlich, a stirring depiction of a female figure wrapped in the roots of a tree; and a selection of Amerindian sculptures inspired by ancient Amerindian art by Troy Lewis.
This can only be accessed by boat as it sits beside cliffs.
Annandale Falls. Kids jumping into the pool try to charge.
Grand Etang NP and Lake. A crater lake in an extinct volcano responsible for the formation of the Island Grenada which hasn’t erupted in 1-2 million years ago. It is located 530 m (1,740 ft) above sea level, is approximately 20 feet deep and 36 acres in area and is also rumored to be home to a mermaid living in the depths that lure men to their watery grave.
One is able to discover distinct eco-zones because of the park’s varied elevation. A self-guided hike around the azure-colored lake along a trail goes past waterfalls and through jungle. Tropical birds, tiny bright-chartreuse lizards, a variety of orchids, and armadilloes can be seen. Mount Qua Qua can be seen across the lake. Trail hikes range from 15 minutes to 4 hours. Mona monkeys can also be seen overhead in the forest.
Seven Sisters Waterfall. 2.1km trail (often muddy but with wood steps), gains 183m. Most reach the lower two falls. Guide not necessary. In Grand Etang NP.
NORTH
Saint Patrick parish (North). XL.
Carib’s Leap* a historic place in the north of the island where the last Carib Indians jumped from a high cliff.
Levera Pond. The Levera wetland system comprises the large salt pond, a smaller pond to the south, and the beach. Established in 1992, this 450-acre is Grenada’s most scenic coastal area. Its pond is one of the most important wildlife habitats on the island, the first and only RAMSAR site on the island of Grenada.
Beautiful Levera Beach has views of the three offshore islands of Sugar Loaf, Green and Sandy Islands. Levera also has an extensive mangrove swamp, with a roped walkway, a boardwalk, observation tower, and signs for birding.
Lake Antoine National Landmark. A crater lake formed by the collapsed cone of a volcano, from the top of a hill, take the track down and walk the perimeter of the shallow crater lake. The water level usually is no more than 20 feet above sea level. Although this is in a relatively dry, hot region of the island, it’s a good spot for birders. Snail kites, fulvous whistling-ducks, limpkins and grey kingbirds have been seen here.
River Antoine Rum Distillery. At River Antoine, a nearly two century old water wheel powers the cane mill. The resulting cane juice is processed the same way it was in the 1600s by burning locally scavenged hardwood directly beneath the stills – pre-industrial revolution rum making. River Antoine’s rum isn’t at all expensive but very little, if any is exported.
SOUTH LOOP
Mt Carmel Falls. Two miles south of Grenville, they are the highest on the island, with two falls cascading over 70 feet into the pools below. Reached on a gentle 30-minute hike through a private plantation. Entrance fee.
Spice Island Wildlife Sanctuary And Petting Zoo, Crochu. Children’s zoo. Permanently closed.
La Sagesse Beach
La Sagesse Nature Centre. The former estate of the late Lord Brownlow, cousin to Queen Elizabeth II, this nature center occupies the entire length of La Sagesse Bay. Unfortunately, the trails through the property are in poor condition and hikes are no longer available.
Palm Tree Gardens, Red Gate. Two acres, over 300 plant species, including 40 palm varieties, anthuriums, bromeliads, and orchids. Stop by the lily pod for red-footed tortoises.
Clarke’s Court Rum Distillery. Famous for a wide variety of rum products.
Grand Anse Beach The most famous beach in Grenada and in the tourist belt.
Magazine Beach
Climate. Average temperatures range from 24°C to 30°C, tempered by the steady and cooling trade winds. The driest season is between January and May. During the rainy season, from June to December, it rarely rains for more than an hour at a time and generally not every day.
Get In. By plane.Maurice Bishop International Airport (GND) in the extreme southwest 4 miles from St. George’s. Connections can be made on Liat via Trinidad and Barbados, and also from Barbados via SVG Airlines.
By boat. A large cruise ship terminal allows up to 4 ships to be docked at once.
Get Around. The town centre has several hilly, narrow streets. Drive on the left and horn on blind corners.
By Taxi.
By Bus. The standard transportation are mini-vans for15-19 people. They are lively trips, with great music and a nice breeze.
By Car. Car rentals are expensive. A temporary Grenada license is obtained from the car rental company or police station for EC$30.
By Boat. Water taxis between Cruise Terminal, Grand Anse Beach and the Carenage.
DO
Historic forts, lakes, waterfalls, spice estates, rum distilleries (with generous samples), plantation houses, Amerindian petroglyphs.
Rent a car. See places open in St George’s early (Fort George and the two churches, stop at market). Cross St John’s River. Visit Fort Frederick for great early views of city. Highway heading NE, Grand Etang NP (2 waterfalls). At coast decide if going north to Levera Pond and Lake Antoine, or heading south to finish loop of south of island (Mt Carmel Waterfall to Magazine Beach). Return St George’s, see National Museum, snorkel at the Sculpture Park if have time.
Festivals
Grenada Chocolate Festival
Grenada Drum Festival
Spice Mas Festival
Experiences: Try or Learn how to make rum
Diving & Snorkelling. The island has an abundance of marine sites (both Grenada & Carriacou) and the first Underwater Sculpture Park in the world. The island is known as the Diving Capital of the Eastern Caribbean. It has the largest shipwreck in the Caribbean – the Bianca C – a 600ft cruise ship which sunk in 1961, now lying in 167 feet of water. There are more than 50 sites, including reefs, wrecks and walls most within 5-15 minutes boat ride from the dive shops.
River Tubing; Hiking; Mountain Biking; Sporting and family activities.
Get Married! Weddings are legal and you only need to be on island for 3 days (including weekends); beautiful and unusual wedding sites (beaches, waterfalls, forts).
Hashing a different trail is set each week anywhere around the island for walkers and runners. A great way to see the beauty of Grenada and meet locals and visitors. http://www.facebook.com/groups/grenadahash/ or http://grenadahash.com/ Be aware of the island’s steep slopes, heavy jungle and roads without shoulders; each can present a unique risk.
AROUND GOUYAVE
Dougaldston Estate is the oldest Spice Plantation in Grenada – close to Gouyave in the parish of St John.
Gouyave Nutmeg Factory a “must do” in Grenada the “spice island”.
Gouyave Fish Friday. The town that never sleeps, this West Coast fishing village serves food is fresh, inexpensive, and prepared before your eyes, festive music, lots of kids milling about, and the night ends in a party at various night clubs. One can have a great meal and a couple of beers for less than $10 US. Lobster, shrimp, and fresh fish, right out of the water is prepared in various forms.