Sudan is the third largest country in Africa and sixteenth largest in the world, bordering Egypt, Eritrea, Central African Republic, Chad, Ethiopia, Libya, and South Sudan. Getting a visa for Sudan is an expensive hit-and-miss affair, but if you do manage to get in, and you stick to the safe areas, you will probably have a memorable experience. The Sudanese people are very hospitable, and you can visit some awesome tourist attractions without even seeing another tourist.
Capital. Khartoum
Currency. Sudanese Pound (SDG)
Area. 2,505,810km², water: 129,810km², land: 2.376 million km²
Population. 37,090,298 (2002)
Language. Arabic & English (official), Nubian, Ta Bedawie, diverse dialects of Nilotic, Nilo-Hamitic, Sudanic languages, note: program of “Arabization” in process
Religion. Islam 70% (in north), indigenous beliefs 25%, Christian 5% (mostly in south and Khartoum)
Country Code. 249
Time Zone. GMT_2h
Understand. Sudan is afflicted by civil wars which have been raging, on and off, for more than 40 years. When the colonial map-makers divided up Africa, they included in Sudan the predominantly Muslim people of the north (including Nubians), who share much of their history and culture with Egyptians and Arabs, and the largely Christian and Animist Nilotic and Bantu people of the south, who have more in common with the rest of sub-Saharan Africa than with their northern neighbours.
After decades of civil war and a transitional period of self rule, South Sudan became independent on 9 July 2011. Conflicts still linger in the western region of Darfur. From 1989 until his deposition by the military in 2019, Sudan was under the totalitarian rule of Omar Hassan Al-Bashir.
Sudan is as geographically diverse as it is culturally; in the north, the Nile cuts through the eastern edge of the Sahara: the Nubian desert, the sites of the ancient kingdoms of Kush and Meroe, and the land of the Seti. Here, agriculture drives the economy. Staple crops include ful (fava beans), dates, tomato, and onion. The East and West are mountainous regions, and much of the rest of the country comprises savannahs typical of much of central sub-Saharan Africa.
GET IN
Visa. Sudanese travel visas are expensive and difficult to acquire for some nationalities in some countries and impossible for people with an Israeli stamp in their passport. It is advisable to obtain a Sudanese visa in your home country. You will need a letter of invitation from the hotel that you choose (they are used to providing this service, and may add a small charge for it). Alcohol is forbidden in Sudan, and attempting to import might result in severe penalties. For a quick Sudan visa in Cairo, the embassy is closed on Fridays.
Cairo is one of the easiest places to get one (usually a couple of hours after application). You will almost definitely need a letter of invitation/introduction from your embassy, and the time this takes varies from embassy to embassy. For most foreign nationalities visa fee in Cairo is now 150USD bit you only need to bring a pen and your passport. 2 copies of your passport and one of your Egyptian visa will safe you some money and trouble. You get the visa form for free at the counter. The whole procedure starts around 10am, but being there from 9am i a good idea. They do all visas in a day, sometimes the process is finished at 1pm, sometimes up to 3 or 4pm.
The Canadian Embassy does not issue letters, but the Sudanese embassy in Cairo will give visas to Canadians without the letter. This will present problems within Sudan when trying to obtain permits or renew visas, as these can only be obtained with a letter from the Canadian embassy in Khartoum which the embassy will not at this time provide.
It is also possible to obtain a visa in Aswan.
From Ethiopia. Getting a visa from the Sudanese Embassy in Addis Ababa is extremely unpredictable, although it is cheaper (around USD60).
From Kenya. Visa applications are submitted between 10am and 12pm and visa collected next day between 3pm and 3.30pm. Cost is 5000 Kenyan Shillings (US$50). Letter of support for application can be obtained from own embassy
Permits and other legal requirements. All foreigners are required to register within three days of arrival, need two passport photos and photocopies of your passport.
To register in Khartoum, go to the Aliens Registration Bureau at Shari’a Al Sahafa Zat, Khartoum, close to Sudan University for Science and Technology, with passport sized photos required and SDG500 (July 2016 – USD not accepted). Expect to wait at least two to three hours. Most hotels can register you upon payment of a commission.
By plane. Khartoum Airport (KRT) and Port Sudan Airport.
Turkish Airlines’ Istanbul-Khartoum route, there are no direct flights operating from Europe. The Americas, Australia and most of Asia.
Middle Eastern and African airlines: Etihad, Sudan Airways, Ethiopian Airlines, Royal Jordanian, Sudan Airway, Gulf Air), EgyptAir, Sudan Airways, Ethiopian Airlines, Kenya Airways, Qatar Airways, Emirates, Sudan Airways, FlyDubai
By land. Ethiopia via the border village of Gallabat.
By bus. Egypt to Sudan by bus everyday except Friday from near Aswan station, 2 days, overnight in Wadi Halfa, leaves at 04:30.
Aswan directly to Khartoum via the newly opened border crossing to the west of lake Nasser 28 hours (depending on border crossing) and thus do not stop in Wadi Halfa. As with the bus above, it leaves between 0430 and 0730 from the Aswan bus station.
By boat. The most reliable way to enter Sudan from Egypt is via the weekly ferry from Aswan in Egypt to Wadi Halfa. Mondays to Sudan and back on Wednesdays. The best place to sleep is on deck amongst the cargo, magnificent views (including that of Abu Simbel). Food and drink are available on-board.
GET AROUND
Permits and other legal requirements. Independent travellers in Sudan with their own vehicles, or using public transport require a combined Photography and Travel Permit to travel to some areas outside Khartoum, but appears to be unnecessary at least North of Khartoum.
Personal vehicles require a separate permit which is issued at land borders and costs SDG150.
By plane. Small airports in Wadi Halfa, El Debba, Dongola, Port Sudan, El Fasher, Wad Madani, Merowe and El Obeid, all served by Sudan Airways. Most flights operate from Khartoum. Be prepared for changing timetables and cancelled flights.
Sudan Airways is notorious for its poor safety record and punctuality. It is advisable to avoid Sudan Airways and consider alternative transport.
By train. Between Khartoum and Port Sudan.
By car. Driving chaotic but not especially dangerous by African standards. In most of the country, a 4WD is essential; Sudan’s main highway is sealed for much of the way but most of the roads in the country are dirt or sand tracks. Crossing into Sudan from Egypt via the ferry from Aswan to Wadi Halfa now has the benefit of the Chinese financed tarmac highway covering the 400km south to Dongola, and then right through to Khartoum, another 500km. This road is quick for overlanders as there are few military roadblocks, and very little other traffic.
Hitchhiking is fairly common in Sudan though there are not many private vehicles outside of Khartoum
By bus. Khartoum to the major towns, departing from at least two chaotic depots. Noise cancelling headphones. In remoter areas people tend to use trucks or “boxes”.
Talk. The official languages in Sudan are Arabic and English. English is not widely spoken except by officials, students and hospitality workers. The older generations tends to speak the better English.
Money. Cash. Bring recently printed, clean and unmarked currency preferably US Dollars. British Pounds and to a lesser extent Euros. Traveller’s cheques and non-Sudanese bank cards are not accepted. Money changers in Afra Mall.
Before leaving Sudan, make sure to change any local
Eat. Foul, made from fava beans, is by far the most commonly eaten food in Sudan, often a sandwich filling. Falafels always accompanies fresh to get the best crunchiness!
Drinks. Completely alcohol-free. karkade or hibiscus can be served hot or chilled, aradeeb or tamarind, and gongoleiz , made with the baobab fruit.
Sleep. Most larger towns and cities have affordable hotels. Lower mid-range offer the worst value. Ceiling fan to keep things cool. The beds are usually out in the courtyard under the stars,
Camping in the wild is easy in rural areas outside the south as long as the usual precautions are taken.
Stay safe. More safe than most African countries and safe by Western standards. Walk everywhere. locals really want to help, beggars are rare and not aggressive.
Armed conflict. Sudan ended a 40-year civil war between the Khartoum based central government and non-Muslim separatist groups from the South. Relations between the two countries after the independence of South Sudan remain fluid and somewhat tense.
The well-publicized conflict in Darfur is still taking place.
Police and army. There will be no problem with police unless you have broken the law.
Health. Sudan is a malarial region especially cautious during the rainy season.
Respect. Religious sensitivities. Sudan is Islamic with a form of Sharia law. Alcohol and drugs are forbidden. Sudanese women wear very conservative clothing. Men should wear long trousers, not shorts.
Any foreigner will be treated as a local, and dealt with accordingly, in many cases, given a jail sentence of several months and a whipping, the minimum being forty lashes
Local customs. To show the bottom of your foot is an insulting gesture, as is the touching of the thumb to the index finger while extending the rest of the fingers (the North American sign for “O-kay”). Foreigners are discouraged from speaking directly to local women
Conversation. Avoid asking direct questions about people’s political opinions. Tact is a necessity after more than 40 years of civil war and refugees are spread around, especially Khartoum.NM Sudan
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Sudan Intercity Railway Experience
Rivers
Blue Nile
White Nile
Experiences: Sufi Holiya Festival
Borders
Eritrea-Sudan
Sudan (sea border/port)
NOMAD MANIA Sudan – Khartoum and River Nile State (Ad Damir)
M@P: River Nile state north (Abu Hamad)
World Heritage Sites: Archaeological Sites of the Island of Meroe
Religious Temples: Omdurman: Masjid Al-Nilin
World of Nature: Sabaloka Game Reserve
African Cities
ATBARAH
DAMIR
KHARTOUM/OMDURMAN World Capitals World Cities and Popular Towns
Airports: Khartoum (KRT)
Museums
Ethnographic Museum
National Museum of Sudan
Religious Temples
Greek Orthodox Cathedral
Khartoum Grand Mosque
Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church
Modern Architecture Buildings: Corinthia Hotel
Markets: Omdurman Souq
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NOMAD MANIA Sudan – Northern State (Merowe, Karima)
M@P: Libya/Egypt/Sudan – Mount Uwaynat area
World Heritage Sites: Gebel Barkal and the Sites of the Napatan Region
Tentative WHS
Kerma (01/09/1994)
Old Dongola (01/09/1994)
Islands: Badien
Lakes; Lake Nasser
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NOMAD MANIA Sudan – Red Sea State (Port Sudan)
M@P:
Egypt/disputed – Bir Tawil
Egypt/Sudan – Hala’ib Triangle
World Heritage Sites: Sanganeb Marine National Park and Dungonab Bay – Mukkawar Island Marine National Park
Tentative WHS: Suakin (01/09/1994)
Islands: Mukawwar
XL
Bir Tawil
Halaib Triangle
Villages and Small Towns
Arkawit
Suakin
World of Nature
Dungonab Bay – Mukkawar Island Marine NP
Gulf of ‘Agig
Suakin Archipelago NP
Tokar Game Reserve
Rivers: Barka River
African Cities
PORT SUDAN World Cities and Popular Towns
Airports: Port Sudan (PZU)
Religious Temples: Port Sudan: Al Jazeera Mosque
Aquariums: Port Sudan: Red Sea Aquarium
Markets: Port Sudan fish market
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NOMAD MANIA Sudan – Kordufan (El Obeid, Kadugli)
M@P: Sudan/South Sudan – Abyei
XL: Abyei
African Cities
KADUQLI
NAHUD
UBAYYID World Cities and Popular Towns
Religious Temples
Al Ubayyid: Great White Mosque
Al Ubayyid: Our Lady Queen of Africa Cathedral
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NOMAD MANIA Sudan – Al Jazirah, White Nile, Sennar, Blue Nile (Wad, Sennar)
M@P: Sudan – Blue Nile state
Islands: Aba
Borders: Ethiopia-Sudan
Rivers: Blue Nile, Rahad/Shinfa River, White Nile
African Cities
DAMAZIN
DUEIM
KOSTI
MANAGIL
RABAK
SENNAR
WAD MADANI
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NOMAD MANIA Sudan – Kassala and Al Qadarif
Tentative WHS
Dinder National Park (28/09/2004)
Wadi Howar National Park (28/09/2004)
Borders
Eritrea-Sudan
Ethiopia-Sudan
World of Nature
Dinder NP
Rahad Game Reserve
Rivers
Atbarah River
Dinder River
Mareb River
Rahad River
Rahad/Shinfa River
Tekkeze/Setit River
African Cities
QADARIF
KASSALA World Cities and Popular Towns
Religious Temples: Khatmiya Mosque
Markets: Kassala Souq
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NOMAD MANIA Sudan – Darfur (Nyala)
M@P: West Darfur state (Geneina)
Borders
Central African Republic-Sudan
Chad-Sudan
XL
Merga Oasis (Northern Darfur)
Western Darfur province
World of Nature: Radom NP
Lakes: Lake Kundi
African Cities
DAEIN
GENEINA
AL-FASHIR
Airports: Al-Fashir (ELF)
NYALA World Cities and Popular Towns