Niger (pronounced: nee-ZHAIR) is an arid, landlocked country of the Sahel. Niger is a former French colony which was granted independence in 1960. The land is mostly desert plains and dunes, with rolling savanna in the southeast with nothing much to see.
WARNING: Most of Niger is unsafe for any travel. The capital, Niamey, is safer only by comparison and even that city is dangerous to visit. Areas near the Mali border are essentially lawless. Islamists with ties to the terrorist organization al Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM) control the regions of Mali bordering Niger. Several western tourists have been kidnapped and at least two have been killed by an al Qaeda affiliate. Agadez has seen periodic unrest for several years and at times the government has required special permits to travel in the region and military escorts for convoys of vehicles. The Nigerien government recommends armed escorts when traveling in the region. There is a heightened risk of kidnapping in Southwestern Niger, especially in the regions bordering Mali and Burkina Faso. As of March 2018, a state of emergency and a curfew were in effect in Southern Niger’s Diffa region. States of emergency were also in effect in Nigerian states bordering Southern Niger. Travel north of Niamey or to Northern Niger is strongly discouraged; there is a heightened risk of armed robbery north of the Tahoua-Zinder-Diffa axis.
REGIONS
Southern Niger
Southwestern Niger
CITIES
Niamey — Although both the administrative capital and commercial centre, possibly the least crowded and hectic capital in West Africa
Agadez — A trade hub along trans-Saharan trade routes for over five centuries, home to a magnificent palace and several mosques and a gateway to the nearby Air Mount
Ayorou — Along picturesque section of the River Niger with one of Niger’s best markets, and a starting point for river trips to Gao
Diffa — Peul town between shifting sand dunes and disappearing swampland which serves as the gateway to SE Niger & Lake Chad
Dosso — has a small ethnic museum, colourful market and even more colourful chief’s palace
Maradi — Centre of agriculture (especially peanuts), home to a colorful chief’s palace, and near seasonal rivers/floodplains which have caused interesting land formations to the south
Tahoua — Stop en route to Agadez
Zinder — The cultural capital of Niger, this Peul-Hausa city has perhaps the most colourful craft markets (pottery & tanning are local specialities) as well as a noteworthy regional museum and sultan’s palace
OTHER DESTINATIONS
W National Park — magnificent National Park, easiest accessed from Niamey
Koure — See the last herd of giraffes in West Africa
Balleyara Market — Two hours from Niamey, one of West Africa’s largest animal markets, plus a colourful array of other traditional market and artisan wares (Sundays)
Ayorou — A river-side town three hours from Niamey with a colorful, laid-back Sunday market as well as pirougue tours to see the hippos and island
Bilma — an oasis situated in the northeast
Boubon — Bar/restaurant and huts to rent nightly on an island in the Niger River
Termit & Tin Toumma National Nature and Cultural Reserve — one of Africa’s largest reserves (twice as large as Costa Rica), the park protects several animals (including the critically endangered addax, Dama gazelle, & desert cheetah), protects the nomadic culture, and features lots of scenic desert landscape. Established in 2012, it will take a few years for guides, ecotours, and facilities to become available.
Air and Ténéré Natural Reserve — a natural reserve in the desert, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list
Capital: Niamey
Currency: West African CFA frank
Population: 17.1 million
Country Code +227
HISTORY
Not until 1993, 35 years after independence from France, did Niger hold its first free and open elections. A 1995 peace accord ended a five-year Tuareg insurgency in the north. Coups in 1996 and 1999 were followed by the creation of a National Reconciliation Council that effected a transition to civilian rule by December 1999. In 2009, a coup d’état toppled the elected-turned-dictator government, and returned Niger to an electoral democracy.
Economy. Niger’s economy centers on subsistence agriculture, animal husbandry, reexport trade, and increasingly less on uranium, because of declining world demand. The 50% devaluation of the West African franc in January 1994 boosted exports of livestock, cowpeas, onions, and the products of Niger’s small cotton industry. The government relies on bilateral and multilateral aid — which was suspended following the April 1999 coup d’état — for operating expenses and public investment. In 2000-01, the World Bank approved a structural adjustment loan of $105 million to help support fiscal reforms. However, reforms could prove difficult given the government’s bleak financial situation. The IMF approved a $73 million poverty reduction and growth facility for Niger in 2000 and announced $115 million in debt relief under the Heavily Indebted Poor Countries (HIPC) initiative. Niger is the world’s second poorest country and has the world’s lowest standard of living.
People. Niger has a population of 20 million. The Hausa (Zarma and Songhai) make up the largest ethnic groups of Niger.
Over 20% of Nigeriens are made up of nomadic and livestock raising tribes, including Fulani, Tuareg, Wodaabe, Kanuri, Arabs and Toubou.
Language. The official language in Niger is French, although very few people speak it outside Niamey and even there do not expect a high level conversation with the traders at the markets. The local languages include Djerma (spoken mainly in Niamey and the bordering Tillaberi and Dosso regions), Hausa, Fulfulde and Tamashek (spoken by Tuaregs in north), and Kanuri (spoken by Beri Beri). English is of no use outside the American cultural center and a few big hotels in Niamey. However, you will find English-speakers in border towns along the Nigerian border, such as Birni N Konni and Maradi. These people are usually from Nigeria to the south and in general want something from you. As friendly as they may be, always listen to a professional guide over anyone that speaks some English.
If you learn about 20 phrases in a local language, you will gain respect in a heartbeat. Simply greeting people in their local tongue will make your trip there smoother than you would have ever thought possible.
Top essential Zarma/Djerma phrases:
- Fofo: hello
- Mate ni go? (mah-tay nee go?): How are you?
- Sah-mai (sawm-eye): Fine
- Mano…? Where is…?
- Ai ga ba… (Eye gah bah): I want…
- Wo-nae: That one
- Toe: OK.
- Ai (eye) MAH fah-ham: I don’t understand.
- Ka-LA-tone-tone: Goodbye
Top essential Hausa phrases:
- Sannu: Hello
- Me sunanka : What is your name?
- Kana LA-hiya: How are you?
- LA-hiya LO: It’s all good.
- Na GO-day: Thank you
- Sai ANjima: Goodbye
- Na GO-day, Na KO-shi: Thank you, I am full. (Polite response when offered food you are afraid to eat)
Some Arabic words are also common:
- salam-u-laikum, which roughly means, “peace be with you,” and is used in Niger when you enter a house or greet someone
- al hamdallaye, which means to a Nigerien “Bless it, it’s finished.” It can also mean “no thank you.” The latter can also get you out of having to sample possibly dirty food, or from eating at someone’s home until your stomach explodes.
- In-shah-allah, which means “God willing.” For example, “I’ll come to visit your family in-shah-allah.
GET IN
VISA. Visas are required by all nationals except: Nationals of the African countries of Benin, Burkina Faso, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Chad, Côte d’Ivoire, The Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Liberia, Mali, Mauritania, Morocco, Nigeria, Rwanda, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Togo and Tunisia, as well as those of Hong Kong, Alien residents holding a valid Permis de Séjour or Visa de Séjour, Transit passengers continuing their journey within 24 hours who do not leave the airport.
An International Vaccination Certificate for Yellow fever is mandatory, but Cholera vaccination certification is required only if travelling from a neighbouring country where an outbreak of the disease has been recently reported.
By plane. There is one international airport (Aéroport International Diori Hamani de Niamey) in Niamey. Before the security situation in the country worsened there used to be charter flight to Agadez. For information on internal flights you could inquire at a local travel agency. There may be connections to Zinder, Maradi and Agadez.
As of August 2017, there were flights from West and North African capitals, Istanbul, and Paris.
Air Algerie flies from Algiers a few times a week (sometimes including a stopover in Ouagadougou).
Asky Airlines and Air Burkina connect Niamey with Ouagadougou
Air Côte d’Ivoire flies daily from Abidjan
Ethiopian Airlines flies from Addis Ababa a few times a week
Afriquiyah connects Niamey with Tripoli (Mitiga) a few time a week
Royal Air Maroc flies almost daily from Casablanca
Asky Airlines and Air France fly from Lomé
Turkish Airlines offer flights from Istanbul (IST) via Bamako
Air France flies to Paris (CDG)
Tunisair connect Niamey to Tunis
By car.
Libya “temporarily” closed its land border with Niger on 16 December 2012. It is unclear when the border will reopen.
Travellers can get to Niger overland by roads from Mali, Burkina Faso, Benin and Nigeria.
Some adventurous souls still cross the Sahara from the north (Algeria), but that area is not secure.
By bus. There are a number of private companies offering bus services from Niger to neighbouring countries and even as far as Dakar and Nouakchott (e.g. Rimbo Transport Voyageurs or SONEF). They are daily services to Lomé and Cotounou (stopping at Parakou and some towns on the road), as well as Abidjan, Bamako, Dakar, Nouakchott (all through Ouagadougou). The service to Gao in Mali was suspended due to security resons. Tickets can be bought on at the respective companies or a sales office in town.
Along the Nigerian border there are local minibuses and taxis which connect Maradi and Zinder with Katsina and Kano. Normally you do not have to change vehicle at the border.
GET AROUND
There are no railways in Niger.
Of the 10,000 km of highways, over 2000 km is paved and efforts are being made to improve some of the sections that have previously been endlessly under repair. You can travel from Ouagadougou in Burkina Faso all the way to Diffa, near Lake Chad on roads that are in decent to tolerable condition. The road from Niamey to “Park W” in the south is paved. The Zinder-Agadez route is being repaved after being in severe disrepair for years. The Birni Nkonni-Agadez-Arlit road is in poor shape.
The country has 27 airports/landing strips, 9 of which have paved runways.
From mid-December to March the Niger River is navigable for about 300 km, from Niamey to Gaya on the Benin border.
Taxis in Niamey charge about CFA 200 if the distance isn’t too long, or CFA 400 for going almost across the city. At the airport in Niamey there is a taxi monopoly and the lowest you’ll get a taxi for is CFA 3,000 – and that’s if you haggle a lot! However, if you walk south from the airport you’ll hit a main road and for CFA 100-150 you can get a ride from a beat up van to the Grand Marché (Main Market), luggage included.
By bus. The Nigerien government has recently set up a bus service along the major routes of the country. While taking cars is exciting and interesting, they are dangerous, extremely hot, and more expensive. Plus, they are forced to pull over after midnight due to banditry. Because these cars often only leave in the evening, it can take several days to travel a relatively short distance. The large buses are brand new Mercedes buses and they carry a soldier at night so they may drive all night long. In addition, due to their large size, they can skim over potholes that would destroy the smaller vans.
Rent a car. There is almost no possibility to rent a car in the usual sense, although in 2005 a Hertz franchise came to Niamey and rents Toyota RAV4s. Also, you can rent a full-size “cat-cat” (4×4 from the French quatre-quatre) with a driver/guide, but in most cases you will have to arrange with companies that organise expeditions.
Tidene Expeditions, BP 270 Agadez, +227 440568, fax: +227 440 578
SEE
West Africa’s last remaining wild Giraffe herd lives in Niger
Aïr Mountains
Ténéré Desert
Parque Nacional Du W Du Niger
DO
Watch a Gerewol festival
CURRENCY
The currency of the country is the West African CFA franc, denoted CFA (ISO currency code: XOF). It’s also used by seven other West African countries. It is interchangeable at par with the Central African CFA franc (XAF), which is used by six countries. Both currencies are fixed at a rate of 1 euro = 655.957 CFA francs.
US dollars and other foreign currency are not accepted in daily transactions, only to exchange into local money via a bank or black market. Exception: near the border of Nigeria, the devaluing Nigerian currency Naira is accepted.
Shopping. Bargaining and haggling is essential and expected. It’s best to have a low price and a maximum price in mind before entering into a negotiation. If the price is higher than you want, just say thanks and walk away: if you were offering a fair price you will be called back. If you were offering too low a price, you won’t be called back, but you can always go back later and offer more.
Nigerien artisan specialities include:
intricately imprinted leather boxes (ranging from small 5-cm boxes to full-size trunks)
other leather goods
silver jewellery
colourful hand-woven wedding blankets
coloured straw mats (and here, we don’t mean the plastic mats from China)
fabric (only the Enitex brand is made in Niger, but there are many other kinds that are also good)
CUISINE
Local, traditional food includes:
a dense millet porridge with an okra sauce, a pepper sauce, a tomato sauce, or a squash sauce on top, sometimes with veggies and a couple chunks of meat
rice with the above sauces
mushy macaroni pasta with an oily red sauce
rice & beans
corn cous-cous mixed with moringa leaves, black-eyed peas, and sauce (called dumbou in Djera/Zarma, and only available in Djerma/Zarma regions)
Availability varies widely by region, but visitors may wish to try the following delicious specialities, usually available as street food:
dumbou (see above)
kilishi: beef jerkey that comes in three flavours: regular, peanut-spiced, and hot-pepper-spiced
masa: delicious sourdough pancakes eaten with a peanut/hot pepper/ginger spice mix or a brown sauce
fari masa: fried dough balls served with either a squash/tomato salsa or sugar
chichena: like fari masa above, but made from bean flour instead of wheat flour
koudagou (Djerma/Zarma): fried sweet potato chunks with sauce
Less exotic but also tasty:
brochettes — meat kabobs made from either beef, lamb, or goat
omelet sandwiches
mangoes: if in season, they are bigger and juicier than any available in the western world
yoghurt: pasteurized, sweet, and available wherever there is a fridge
fried fish sandwiches
ground beef sandwiches
plates of garlicky green beans or peas (usually in bars and restaurants)
Be careful of the salads — even in the city, they’re usually not OK for western travellers.
Drink. Drink plenty of filtered or bottled water. You will get dehydrated during your trip to Niger at one point. At times it can be hard to find bottled water, but ask for “Purewater” (pronounced pure-wata) that comes in sealed plastic bags for usually CFA 25 (CFA 50 in some hard-to-reach places). You will also need to replenish your salts more frequently than you are accustomed.
Keep in mind that drinking alcohol is generally forbidden in Muslim culture, so take extra care to keep drunken, inappropriate behaviour behind closed doors and out of the public eye.
The national beer is called, appropriately, Biere Niger. The only other locally produced beer is a franchise of the French West-African Flag brewery. While taste is in the eye of the beerholder, Biere Niger is decent. Both are brewed in the same tank from the same ingredients with the slightest variation on how much reconstituted malt they put in each batch. All other beer, boxed wine, and hard liquor is imported.
In rare pockets of the capital you can find millet beer homebrew, brewed by Burkinabe immigrants. This is drunk out of calabash gourd bowls. Some compare the taste to a dry, unsweetened cider. See the Niamey section for directions.
Locally-made non-alcoholic drinks are delicious. Safety depends on the water quality: generally OK in the capital and NOT OK in rural areas. They are either sold by women out of their houses (ask around), by young girls from trays on their heads, or by young boys pushing around coolers. These drinks include:
lemu-hari: a sweet lemony-gingery drink
bisap: a dark red kool-aid-type drink made from hibiscus leaves
apollo: a thick, pinkish-brownish drink made from the baobab fruit
degue: sweet yoghurt with small millet balls (like tapioca)
To drink, you bite the corner off the bag.
LEARN. Patience. If you haven’t learned it before you went to Niger, you probably will.
Niger is politically unstable and lawlessness is widespread. The latest coup d’état in early 2010 increased the unstable situation and every traveller should follow independent news closely and stay in contact with their embassy. Vicious and sadistic Al-Qaeda and Boko Haram members are present in Niger and have kidnapped and killed many, so it is essential to know the off-limit regions and avoid them.
In the region north of Agadez, there have been many carjackings, kidnappings and robberies in the past sixteen or so years. The problem continues to this day, and tourists should consider the area essentially lawless. You should not venture beyond Agadez even if you have a guide and a 4×4 vehicle unless you seriously know what you are doing. The roads past this point are of terrible quality and bandits are abundant.
Avoid driving late at night in a private vehicle. Occasionally armed robbers will operate near the town of Galmi (central Niger) and around Dosso-Doutchi (in western Niger), as well as on the road to Gao, Mali in the Tillabery region. Normally, there are police checkpoints on the main highways which limit criminal activities during the day.
The main annoyances you are likely to meet are young boys shouting “Anasara”, which means ‘foreigner’ in most local languages, derived from the Arabic word. You will also be asked for a ‘cadeau’ pretty much every time you see a person outside your hotel. The word is French for ‘gift,’ and it is best to remember not to perpetuate the misery this word causes to foreigners working in the country.
In Niamey the safety level is better. If you stay away from markets after dark and use taxis and are EXTRA careful to avoid where the streets cross ravines, you shouldn’t run into any problems. In markets there is a risk of pickpockets or handbag straps being cut but you are more likely to lose money by haggling poorly and in French.
Carrying a backpack and camera, looking like a tourist, and especially being white, will definitely draw some unwanted attention. Most of the attention is from people who try to get your money legally, either by selling you a toothbrush or by begging, but there are always a few less honest people.
HEALTH
The Centers for Disease Control is an excellent resource for authoritative advice on health issues for travellers to Niger.
Drink lots and lots of water while in Niger because the dry heat will dehydrate you and you won’t realize it. It is the best preventative step you can take. Bottled water or water sealed in a bag (called pure-wata) is available in most of the cities but in a pinch, city tap water is well-chlorinated (this is according to one traveller; another American who lived in Niger for two years says never drink unfiltered water anywhere! — that includes ice!). Be particularly wary of well water, stream water, and rural water.
Be sure to replenish your salts as well as liquids.
Wear loose conservative clothes, big hats, and lots of sunscreen. If in doubt, wear what the locals wear.
Malaria, including encephalitic malaria, is a problem, and is chloroquine resistant in Niger. Take your prophylaxes, use heavy-duty insect repellent (DEET is best, though nasty), and consider carrying a mosquito net to sleep under.
Giardia and amoebic dysentery are common. Be wary of any roadside food, unless you buy it hot off the grill. Even items fried in oil could make you sick if the oil has been heavily used and is old. Best to avoid salads and uncooked veggies. Also, never drink unfiltered water (including ice).
Schistosomiasis is present in most water bodies in Niger, so travellers should avoid going in the water everywhere — except chlorinated swimming pools.
In case you were unable to stay healthy, the Clinique Pasteur (situated in front of the Lycée Fontaine) has clean facilities, sterile needles, and competent, sympathetic doctors. The Clinique Gamkalley and many other clinics are around, however, you may need to watch out for dirty needles, over-prescription and aggressive staff.
RESPECT
Visitors are treated as kings in Niger (there is a Koranic proverb to that effect), so be careful not to abuse the hospitality you will be shown. For the most part, try to accept all the small tokens and gestures (cokes, tea, small gifts, etc.) that are offered to you during your time in Niger. It really isn’t good to refuse too much and don’t think “these people are too poor to give me these things”. That is offensive as taking good care of guests is a point of honour and gives people great pleasure. Don’t comment out loud when you see poverty or things in disrepair and please don’t remind Nigeriens about how poor their country is.
Dress conservatively, which means no shorts, no skirts above the knees, and no tank tops. For women, dressing revealingly can be seen as very offensive, even in Niamey. Also, dress nicely, as clothes determine how well you are treated back.
Avoid drunken behaviour, since alcohol is prohibited in the Muslim religion and greatly frowned-upon in Niger.
Always ask people, especially camel drivers, market sellers, and the elderly, before taking a photograph. Many Nigeriens still find it offensive.
Slavery is still relatively common in the central areas, away from the towns. You can generally spot slaves by the unadorned, solid ankle bracelets on both feet, which look like manacles and may well serve that purpose. Unless you feel particularly brave, discussion of the subject with either victims or perpetrators is probably best avoided.
CONNECT See the Friends of Niger website for discussion boards where you can ask questions before you go to Niger and maybe get some Nigeriens or others to fill you in.
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NM Niger
Experiences
Experience a tribal festival of Peulh people
Sail the Niger river
Taste Djerma Stew
Niger – West and Central (Niamey, Tahoua, Tillaberi, Dosso)
NOMAD MANIA Niger – West and Central (Niamey, Tahoua, Tillaberi, Dosso)
World Heritage Sites: W-Arly-Pendjari Complex
Tentative WHS
Le fleuve Niger, les îles et la vallée (26/05/2006)
Le site de Lougou (26/05/2006)
Mare d’Ounsolo ou N’Solo (26/05/2006)
Parc national du « W », sites archéologiques (26/06/2006)
Site archéologique de Bura (26/05/2006)
Zone Giraphe (26/05/2006)
Islands
Lété
Borders
Benin-Niger
Burkina Faso-Niger
Mali-Niger
Niger-Nigeria
World of Nature
Complexe Kokorou-Namga
Dosso Partial Faunal Reserve
Tribes: Fulanis (Woodabe, subgroup of Bororos)
African Cities
DOSSO
Tentative WHS: Palais du Zarmakoye de Dosso (26/05/2006)
M@P: Dosso region extreme south (former Gaya department)
NIAMEY World Capitals World Cities and Popular Towns
Airports: Niamey (NIM)
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels
Kennedy’s Bridge
R1: Niamey-Zinder-Diffa
Museums: Musee National Boubou Hama
Religious Temples
Niamey: Niamey Grand Mosque
Niamey: Our Lady of Perpetual Help Cathedral
Niamey: Prince Sultan Mosque
Markets: Grand Marche
Zoos: Niamey: Ferme Youyou
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La forêt classée, le lac de Madarounfa et les tombeaux des 99 saints (26/05/2006)
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels: Road – R1: Niamey-Zinder-Diffa
AIR and TENERE NATURAL RESERVES World Heritage Sites
Tentative WHS: La Réserve Naturelle Nationale de l’Aïr et du Ténéré (26/05/2006)
XL: Air Mountain Range
World of Nature: Air and Ténéré Natural Reserves
Tentative WHS
Gisements des dinosauriens (26/05/2006)
Itinéraires Culturels du Désert du Sahara : Route du sel (26/05/2006)
Plateau et Fortin du Djado (26/05/2006)
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels: RN11 Algeria to Nigeria border via Agadez
Vestiges of the Past: Dabous Giraffes and surrounding petroglyphs
Festivals: Wodaabe Gerewol & Cure SaleeARLIT
AGADEZ
World Heritage Sites: Historic Centre of Agadez
Tentative WHS: L’ensemble des forêts protégées de la région d’Agadez (26/05/2006)
Religious Temples: Agadez Grande Mosquée
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Niger – East (Zinder, Diffa)
NOMAD MANIA Niger – East (Zinder, Diffa)
Tentative WHS
Partie nigérienne du lac Tchad (26/05/2006)
Borders
Chad-Niger
Niger-Nigeria
XL: Niger areas on Lake Chad (Maliari, N’Guigmi)
World of Nature: Termit Massif Total Reserve
Tentative WHS: Massif de Ternit (26/05/2006)
African Cities
ZINDER World Cities and Popular Towns
Tentative WHS: La vieille ville de Zinder, quartier de Birni et le Sultanat (26/05/2006)
Castles, Palaces, Forts: French Fort
Religious Temples: Grand Mosque