POLAND – Lesser Poland and Subcarpathia (Kraków, Rzeszów)

Poland – Lesser Poland and Subcarpathia (Kraków, Rzeszów) August 15-19, 2019

WOODEN ARCHITECTURE TRAIL OF MALOPOLSKA (Lesser Poland)
This tourist route is 1500kms long and has 251 historic wooden buildings to see, including Catholic, Greek Catholic and Orthodox churches, bell towers, old Polish manor houses, detached houses and heritage parks. Together they show the folk culture of Lesser Poland. It started in 2001 and now consists of information boards and wayfinding signs.
Go to www.drewniana.malopolska.pl to see the complete list and a map. Click on any one to see a photograph and get a reasonable summary of each structure with mass times, open hours (usually only in the summer), addresses, contact details, webs site and a GPS address.
Around Krakow and Okolice – 50
Around Tarnow and Okolice – 40
Around Nowy Sacz and Gorlice – 100
Around Orawa, Podhale, Spisz and Pieniny – 50

See the World Heritage Site Listings below for:
Wooden Churches of Southern Malopolska
Wooden Tserkvas in the Carpathian Region of Poland, Ukraine and Slovakia.

Jarosław (pop 39,000)
Established in 1031 as an important trade center and port on the San River. It reached its greatest prosperity in the 16th and 17th centuries as it was on trade routes connecting Silesia with Ruthenia and Gdansk with Hungary. In the 1590s the Ottomans pillaged the countryside, plague in the 1620s, the Swedish duluge in 1655-60 and finally repeated pillage in 1700-21 by Russians, Saxons and Swedish all caused decline.
The first Jews arrived in 1464 and by 1901 were 25% of the population with 5700 families. Captured by the Germans in 1939, most crossed the San to the Soviet side and hid in the Carpathian mountains.
the sites are the Market Square, Church of the Holy Spirit, Center for Culture and Great Synagogue.

Łańcut Castle, Lancut. Finished in 1642, and then modernized into a palace-residence surrounded by a moat, it was home to tow great Polish families, the Lubomirski families until 1816 and the Potacki family until 1944. Now a museum, the magnificent interior has a rich art collection, Turkish Apartment, Mirror Salon, , Boucher salon, Chinese Apartment, 2-story ballroom. The park is English in style with an Orchid House. PLN 20, 16 reduced

RZESZÔW (pop 192,00)
Rzeszow is the largest city in SE Poland and 18th in the country. It is located on both sides of the Wislok River in the heartland of the Sandomierz Basin.
History. It received city rights in 1354 by Casimir III the Great. It was on trade routes with Europe, Gdansk, Lublin-Slovakia, Krakow-Lwow, the Middle East and Ottoman empire. It was burned to the ground in 1457 in a internal fire, by the Vlachs in 1458 and by the Tatars in 1502. It was captured by the Swedes twice, the last in 1702. The first Jews arrived in the 16th century and in the mid-18th century, the population was 50/50 Poles and Jews. It was part of the Austrian Empire from 1772 until it returned to Poland after WW I. Before the war there were 14,000 Jews in Rzeszow. It was captured by the Nazis on September 7, 1941, a ghetto was opened and 20,000 Jews were murdered here (many were from surrounding villages). Later most Jews were transported to Szebnie concentration camp and Auschwitz and more were murdered in Belzec extermination camp. Only 100 survived the war in Rzeszow itself. After the war, 600 Rzeszow Jews returned from the Soviet Union and almost all left the city and country.
Rzeszow Regional Museum. The usual regional history museum with archaeology from the Stone Age to Medieval times, local history and ethnography. The only English was on cards. PLN 10, 8 reduced
Footbridge (Most Tadeusza Mazowieckiego). This is a fantastic road bridge over a tiny lake, small river and a depressed area. The only pedestrian bridge is on the road bridge.

WOODEN CHURCHES of SOUTHERN MALOPOLSKA
Medieval Roman Catholic churches built in the late 16th century. Began with Gothic but later had Greco-Catholic and Orthodox features. Made of wood timber, they have elongated naves and steeples. World Hertiage Listed in 2003d
St Michael Archangel’s Church, Binarowa, St Michael Archangel’s Church, Debno, Assumption of the Holy Mary Church, Haczow, St Leonard’s Church, Lipnica Murowana, Saints Philip and James Church, Sekowa
All Saints Church, Blizne. Built of horizontal logs in 1470, it has a square nave, a narrower rectangular chancel on the east and a rectangular sacristy on the north wall. The nave and chancel have a single gable roof with an extremely strong truss structure (orchid truss). The tower with an antique bell from 1545 was added in the 17th century. The only windows are 3 high on the and one at the end of the chancery.
In the second half of the 17th century, a type of pent roof (soboty) below the actual roof reaching the bottom of the window frames was added around the church. A fleche with a small bell was added on the top of the roof (the present fleche dates to 1745 as the original was destroyed in a gale. An overall renovation occurred in 1811. The soboty were removed, external walls given a shake siding, the sacristy enlarged and the porch added on the south. The shingles were replaced in 1970 and a wood fence with four chapels added.
The wood plank walls are completely painted. The north wall of the nave is a wonderful hell and heaven painting. The rest of the walls, ceiling and beam were painted in 1545 and are mostly linear floral and Bible scenes above on the walls. The ceiling has rosettes in the chancery and Mary and several saints in the nave.
There are several nice polychromes. The choir stalls and sides of the pews have a floral painting. The altar is a garish blue faux marble with white stucco accents.. There are two altars in the west corners of the nave. The picture of the virgin raises electrically to reveal a lovely statue of Mary surrounded by gold lockets. I arrived at noon and it was closed except the small porch with several flags and a chapel. A woman came at 12:20 and opened the church PLN 5 (I didn’t have change and a Polish woman paid for me)Image result for All Saints Church, Blizne.Image result for All Saints Church, Blizne.
Assumption of the Holy Mary Church, Haczow. About 17kms drive from All Saints, this church has the same proportions but is much larger, has a side chapel on the north, a covered porch surrounding it completely and a horizontal log fence. It was open with no one around and no fee. Enter through the door in the large bell tower making for a large narthex at the end with pews and the Ways of the Cross. The walls are also all painted but much darker and fainter than in All Saints. There are four faux marble altars with much gilt. For me the highlights were the porch and the carved wood Ways of the Cross on posts and covered with a small gable roof surrounding the church on the outside lawn. Free
Saints Philip and James Church, Sekowa. Built in 1520 with a steeple, veranda and tower (with no bells is completely open with pews under) were added in the early 17th century. The 17th century altar was destroyed in 1915 and replaced in 1948. The walls have minimal murals but more paintings.

WOODEN TSERKVAS of the CARPATHIAN REGION in POLAND and UKRAINE
These comprise 16 wooden churches built by horizontal log construction. They are located in isolated parts of the Carpathian Mountains. They were built by communities of the Eastern Orthodox and Greek Catholic faiths in the 16th-19th centuries.
‘Tserkva’ means ‘church’ in the Ukrainian language. Most of these churches were built for the Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church, an Eastern Rite Catholic church (sharing traditions with the orthodox churches but acting in full communion with the Holy See). Since the Ukrainian population left the area after WWII almost all tserkvas in Poland have come into use as Roman Catholic churches. They have retained their traditional (orthodox) iconostases, and the catholic service is performed in front of those. But few now hold traditional services and mainly function as museums.
They were inscribed in 2013 on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The tserkvas bear testimony to a distinct building tradition rooted in Orthodox ecclesiastic design interwoven with elements of local tradition, and symbolic references to their communities’ cosmogony.
The 16 churches can be divided into four groups of different ethnographic architectural traditions. There are 8 inscribed churches in each country. It will take a long drive to cover them all.
Ukraine: Descent of the Holy Spirit Church, Potelych, Zhovkva Raion, Holy Trinity Church, Zhovkva, St. George’s Church, Drohobych, St. Dmytro’s Church, Matkiv, Descent of the Holy Spirit Church, Rohatyn, The Church of the Nativity B. V. M., Nyzhniy Verbizh, Zakarpattia, St. Archangel Michael Church, Uzhok, Ascension of Our Lord Church, Yasinia, Zakarpattia
Poland: Tserkva of St. Michael the Archangel, Brunary, Lesser Poland, Tserkva of the Birth of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Chotyniec, Tserkva of St. Paraskevia, Kwiatoń, Virgin Mary’s Care Tserkva, Owczary, St. James the Less Tserkva, Powroźnik, Tserkva of St. Paraskevia, Radruż, St. Michael the Archangel Tserkva, Smolnik, St. Michael the Archangel Tserkva, Turzańsk, Sanok County.
Virgin Mary’s Care Tserkva, Owczary. This is a Greek-Catholic Parish church built in 1653. The outside has 3 sets of onion domes decreasing in size from the tower, chancery, back of altar. It is tiny with a square chancery under the dome and square nave (with a low roof and tiny balcony under the tower) both the same size. It was renovated repeatedly, having a complete overhaul in 1980. The shingles on the walls and tented roof were replaced. The interior has a rare icon of Christ in the Tomb (one of the smallest icons in the iconostasis), an 18th century baroque iconostasis (green with a lot of intricate gilt) and two baroque side altars, the north one with an icon of Madonna with Child in a brass jacket (19th) and the south with an 18th century icon of St Nicholas. The interior is covered with murals from 1938 – mostly flowers and geometrics. The back of the altar has lovely murals – a Christ head with big angel wings on each side of the square space.Image result for Virgin Mary's Care Tserkva
The Tserkva of St. Paraskevia (orthodox), Radruż is a 31km drive due south almost on the Slovakia border.

NOWY SQCA
Sądecki Ethnographic Park. This open-air museum elaborates on ethnography more than most open-air museums by showing the 19th and early 20th century folk culture of various ethnic groups in Lesser Poland: Lendrons, Pogorzons, Gorals, Linkos, Carpathian Romanies and German colonists. 70 peasant buildings furnished with traditional utensils and equipment form the bulk of the buildings. There is also a folk school, gentry manor house and three churches: 17th century Roman Catholic, 18th century Greek Catholic and 19th century Evangelical (all apparently still hold services). PLN 20, 8 reduced.
There is also a Galician Town with replica buildings that can be seen for an additional fee (PLN 20 reduced).

Today was a massive drive day on many rural highways in southeastern Poland. It seemed that there was a village or collection of farms every kilometre, all with a reduced speed. Every crosswalk (and there were many) also had speed limits of 50km/hr. Most Polish drivers are cautious, don’t pass aggressively and long lines result. It was slow going.
There were surprisingly few radar cameras. But I was stopped by police with a radar gun going 74 in a 50 zone. Towns (with 50km/hr speed limits) are announced by a large white sign with a village silhouette but no speed limit sign. I whined that I did not know that, was very polite and they gave me a warning only. My impression of Polish people improved considerably after that.
I also saw three World Heritage Sites bringing my total in 7 days in Poland to five. I will get another two tomorrow.
I then decided to go to the Carpathian Mountains in the far south of Poland. From Nowy Soca, Google Maps showed the shortest route was via Slovakia, so that is where I was when I wrote this.

TATRA NATIONAL PARK
Just after crossing the Slovakian border, turn left and park at the national park boundary. Walk to the waterfall. This is a very popular place in the summer so arrive early on Fridays and weekends to be able to park.
Mickiewicza Waterfall (Wodogrzmoty Midkiewicza). The river Roztoka drops in three  steps of 9m, with the middle waterfall visible from the  The setting is beautiful and the waterfall is audible for miles. Although not high, they can be impressive in the spring or after a heavy rain.
Park in the Palencia car park and walk about 30 minutes to see them from the bridge on the tarmac road that is closed for traffic leading from big car park at Palenicas. It is difficult to get close. Photos tend to be poor due to lack of daylight in the streams canyon. Most people are heading to Morkie Oko (Valley of the Five Lakes). Morskie Oko is the largest lake in the Tatra Mountains, at an altitude of 1395 m above sea level and an area of 34.93 ha, it is 862m long, 568 m wide, and 50.8 m deep. The surrounding peaks rise over 1,000 metres above. From  the lake many  come to climb Mount Rysy, the highest peak in the area.
In 1891, the ashes of Adam Mickiewicz, one of Poland’s most famous poets, were brought here.
Image result for Mickiewicza Waterfall

After the waterfall, drive towards Zakopane.
Kasprowy Wierch Cableway. Kasprowy Wierch is a peak with a long crest (ridgeline) in the Western Tatras one of Poland’s main winter ski areas. Its dominant southern crests, WSW and ESE, mark the border with Slovakia. It is accessible in most conditions by foot and daily by cablecar.
The mountain is at the crossroads of four crests, two of which coincide with footpaths, incorporating steps, bounding Poland and Slovakia and in times without snow the steep paths heading into both countries south and north are quite easily traversable. The slight apex of the four steep crests (peak itself) is just north of the border, which is deemed to be a straight line relative to the two dominant ridges. In political geography as both countries are part of the Schengen zone, crossing is not controlled or forbidden. Users of the cable car change cars midway in their ascent/descent, at mount Myślenicke Turnie. At the top station is a large restaurant/cafe/information office building with further ski lifts outside.
This ski resort cable car operates year around to take you from the bottom at Kuznice (1014m) to the top of Ksaprowy Wierch mountain (1987m). PLN 79, 69 reduced. It is best to buy tickets online as getting in line for the very popular trip can take up to 3 hours. I arrived at 06:50 and the line was already long taking 45 minutes before able to board.
It is not possible to park at the cableway. There are many touts at the bottom directing you to parking areas. Then it is about a 1½kms gentle uphill walk up the cable car. There is a great sign showing the terrain.
Siklawa Falls. Wielka Siklawa, at 70m, is the highest waterfall in Poland and is located in the Roztoki Valley. It originates from Lake  Wielki Staw (one of the most famous mountain lakes in the Polish Tatra mountain range). It falls along the wall that is a border between Dolina Pieciu Stawow (Valley of the Five Ponds) and Valley of Roztoki. The river Roztoka thunders down and early in the summer or after heavy rainfall  the river Roztoka can be very powerful, a good time to visit Wielka Siklawa. It is a 2-hour walk return from the parking area to the falls.
Image result for Siklawa Falls.

ZAKOPANE In the NM “XL” series, it is in the extreme south of Poland at the foot of the Tatra Mountains. As of 2017 its population was 27,266. Zakopane is a center of Goral culture and is often referred to as “the winter capital of Poland”. It is a popular destination for mountaineering, skiing, and tourism. Zakopane lies near Poland’s border with Slovakia, in a valley between the Tatra Mountains and Gubałówka Hill. It can be reached by train or bus from the province capital, Kraków, about two hours away. Zakopane lies 800–1,000 meters above sea level and centers on the intersection of its Krupówki and Kościuszko Streets.
Tatra Museum. This has 6 branches in town, three are art galleries.
Gubałówka Hill Funicular. Gubalowka is the high ridge (1123m) above the north side of Zakopane. The long flat ridge is one gigantic tourist trap with endless knick-knack stands, snack stands and restaurants. The funicular originates in Zakopane town. Up and down: PLN 24, 20 reduced, One-way PLN 18, 16 reduced.
The ridge continues for many kilometres in a northwest direction, descending gradually to the valley bottom. It is lined with wonderful 3-4 story houses with steep metal roofs and complex roof lines. It is well worth the drive for the expansive views in all directions to the green hillsides.

Railway Museum Chabówka (Skansen Taboru Kolejowego w Chabowce). This large collection is mostly locomotives, box cars and some passenger cars with few that can be entered. Not very interesting, PLN 10, no reduction

KRAKÔW
Also spelled Cracow or Krakow in English, is the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland. Situated on the Vistula River in the Lesser Poland region, the city dates back to the 7th century. Kraków was the official capital of Poland until 1596 and has traditionally been one of the leading centres of Polish academic, economic, cultural and artistic life. Cited as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, its Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The city has grown from a Stone Age settlement to Poland’s second most important city. It began as a hamlet on Wawel Hill and was already being reported as a busy trading centre of Central Europe in 965. With the establishment of new universities and cultural venues at the emergence of the Second Polish Republic in 1918 and throughout the 20th century, Kraków reaffirmed its role as a major national academic and artistic centre. The city has a population of about 770,000, with approximately 8 million additional people living within a 100 km (62 mi) radius of its main square.
After the invasion of Poland by Nazi Germany at the start of World War II, the newly defined Distrikt Krakau (Kraków District) became the capital of Germany’s General Government. The Jewish population of the city was forced into a walled zone known as the Kraków Ghetto, from which they were sent to German extermination camps such as the nearby Auschwitz never to return, and the Nazi concentration camps like Płaszów.
In 1978, Karol Wojtyła, archbishop of Kraków, was elevated to the papacy as Pope John Paul II—the first Slavic pope ever, and the first non-Italian pope in 455 years. Also that year, UNESCO approved the first ever sites for its new World Heritage List, including the entire Old Town in inscribing Kraków’s Historic CentreKraków is classified as a global citywith the ranking of high sufficiency by GaWC. Its extensive cultural heritage across the epochs of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture includes the Wawel Cathedral and the Royal Castle on the banks of the Vistula, the St. Mary’s Basilica, Saints Peter and Paul Church and the largest medieval market square in Europe, the Rynek Główny. Kraków is home to Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest universities in the world and traditionally Poland’s most reputable institution of higher learning.
WW II. Following the invasion of Poland by Nazi Germany in September 1939, the city of Kraków became part of the General Government based in the city’s Wawel Castle. The Nazis envisioned turning Kraków into a completely Germanised city; after removal of all the Jews and Poles, renaming of locations and streets into the German language, and sponsorship of propaganda trying to portray it as a historically German city. On 28 November 1939 Hans Frank created Judenräte (Jewish Councils) which were to be run by Jewish citizens for the purpose of carrying out orders for the Nazis. These orders included registration of all Jewish people living in the area, the collection of taxes, and forced labour groups.
On the eve of the war some 56,000 Jews resided in Krakow, almost one-quarter of a total population of about 250,000. By November 1939, the Jewish population of Krakow had grown to approximately 70,000. According to German statistics from 1940, over 200,000 Jews lived within the entire Kraków District, exceeding 5 percent of the total population in the district. These statistics, however, are likely an underestimate.
During an operation called “Sonderaktion Krakau“, more than 180 university professors and academics were arrested and sent to Sachsenhausen and Dachau concentration camps, though the survivors were later released on the request of prominent Italians.
Before the formation of ghettos, which began in the District in December 1939, Jews were encouraged to flee the city. For those who remained the German authorities decided in March 1941 to allocate a then suburban neighborhood, Podgórze District, to become Kraków’s ghetto where so many Jews were destined to die of illness or starvation. Initially, most ghettos were open and Jews were allowed to enter and exit freely. However, with time ghettos were generally closed and security became tighter. From autumn 1941, the SS developed the policy of Extermination through labour, which further worsened the already bleak Jewish condition.The ghetto inhabitants were later murdered or sent to German Extermination camps, including Bełżec and Auschwitz, and to Kraków-Płaszów concentration camp. The largest deportations within the District occurred from June to September 1942. More specifically, the Kraków ghetto deportation occurred in the first week of June 1942, and in March 1943 the ghetto was definitely liquidated.
Roman Polanski, the film director, is a survivor of the Kraków Ghetto, while Oskar Schindler selected employees from the ghetto to work in his enamelware factory, Deutsche Emailwaren Fabrik (Emalia for short) saving them from the camps. Similarly, many men capable of physical labor were saved from the deportations to extermination camps and instead set to labor camps across the General Government. By September 1943, the last of the Jews from the Kraków ghetto were deported. Although looted by occupational authorities, Kraków remained relatively undamaged at the end of World War II, sparing most of the city’s historical and architectural legacy. Soviet forces entered the city on 18 January 1945, and began arresting Poles loyal to the Polish government-in-exile or those who had served in the Home Army.
After the war, under the Polish People’s Republic, the intellectual and academic community of Kraków was put under complete political control. The universities were soon deprived of printing rights and autonomy. The Stalinist government ordered the construction of the country’s largest steel mill in the newly created suburb of Nowa Huta. The creation of the giant Lenin Steelworks (now Sendzimir Steelworks owned by Mittal) sealed Kraków’s transformation from a university city, into an industrial centre.The new working-class, drawn by the industrialization of Kraków, contributed to rapid population growth.Image result for krakow poland

Krakow Card. Offers free access to 40 museums. There are 3 options: 2 or 3-day cards with public transportation or a 2 or 3 day card with only museums. All have prices for Polish citizens and foreigners and all have a reduced fee for pensioners. It is a day card and is not activated on first use so I elected to activate it on the 17th as there was only 2 hours left in my day on the 16th. These last 3 features (citizenship/foreigner, reduced cost and day activation) are unlike any city card in the world. I have never seen any of these else where (and I have bought many city and country cards). Go to the website www.krakowcard.com to see all the options. My cost for a 3-day card was PLN 90, a very cheap price for 40 free museums.
Divine Mercy Sanctuary (Chapel of St Joseph in Krakow). This is one of those overwhelming churches – It is new and shaped in a large oval with a wood beam ceiling. The stained glass is modern “waves” of colour. The only wall decorations are bronze bas relief Ways of the Cross with small crosses above them. Organ music was being played. Lots of people were kneeling all over the palce. Behidn the altar are three simple portraits, Jesus, Pope Jean Paul II and a nun with an abstract tree and brass globe below. The bell tower is maybe the best of it all and can be seen from forever. Image result for divine mercy sanctuary kraków

I had a nap then drove downtown to pick up my Krakow Card, the address was changed but I finally made it to Discover Krakow.
St. Mary’s Basilica. This is a Brick Gothic church adjacent to the Main Market Square. Built in the 14th century, its foundations date back to the early 13th century and serve as one of the best examples of Polish Gothic architecture. Standing 80 m (262 ft) tall, it is particularly famous for its wooden altarpiece carved by Veit Stoss (Wit Stwosz). In 1978 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site alongside the Historic Centre of Kraków.
On every hour, a trumpet signal—called the Hejnał mariacki—is played from the top of the taller of Saint Mary’s two towers. The plaintive tune breaks off in mid-stream, to commemorate a famous 13th century trumpeter who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before a Mongol attack on the city. The noon-time hejnał is heard across Poland and abroad broadcast live by the Polish national Radio 1 Station.
Saint Mary’s Basilica also served as an architectural model for many of the churches that were built by the Polish diaspora abroad, particularly those like Saint Michael’s and Saint John Cantius in Chicago, designed in the Polish Cathedral style.
The inside is completely painted with vivid floral designs and hundreds of angels, the altar has great polychromes and bas-reliefs backed by very detailed stained glass. The ceiling may be the highlight – blue with stars and all the ribs gold/green intricate geometrics terminating in rosettes too high to make out. Its many chapels are all over-the-top – one is a crucifix backed by intricate silver and another is to Pope John Paul II. The relatively plain choir stalls are backed by wonderful painted bas reliefs and laden by gilt. PLN 20, 10 reduced
Image result for st. mary's basilica krakówImage result for st. mary's basilica krakówRelated image

There was a perogy festival with many vendors and music starting at 8pm. I had several – the apple were the best. PLN 2.50-4 each
Botanical Garden of the University of Krakow. Lots of nice flowers. I finally found the orchid house but it was closed on Fridays. No English. As in all botanical gardens, they enjoyment would be considerably enhanced with common names. PLN 10, 5 reduced
Galeria Krakowska. A large modern shopping mall east of the old center. There is nothing special here with all the usual stores.

I finally did my laundry at a great Speed Queen with easy to understand English instructions and great wi-fi. I even slept outside on the street mooching their wi-fi till the next morning.

Nowy Kleparz. This covered open-air market has a little bit of everything even though it is quite small – food, clothes, flowers, cosmetics, you name it. It was opposite the laundry.

Historic Centre of Kraków. A World Heritage Site, it is surrounded by a thin park and is totally pedestrianized. Hundreds of tour groups. Many white horse-drawn carriages with young women drivers and golf carts move people along. Didn’t see any Hop on Hop off buses.
Vestiges of Jewish Ghettos (Warsaw, Krakow, Tarnow, Lodz
St. Mary’s Basilica. The inside is completely painted with vivid floral designs and hundreds of angels, the altar has great polychromes and bas-reliefs backed by very detailed stained glass. The ceiling may be the highlight – blue with stars and all the ribs gold/green intricate geometrics terminating in rosettes too high to make out. Its many chapels are all over-the-top – one is a crucifix backed by intricate silver and another is to Pope John Paul II. The relatively plain choir stalls are backed by wonderful painted bas reliefs and laden by gilt. PLN 20, 10 reduced
Plac Nowy flea market (Saturdays). This is a small flea market with open-air tables surrounding a multi-sided red brick building.
Corpus Christi Basilica. Built shortly after the monastery in 1405 in Gothic style, it is controlled by the Archconfraternity of the Blessed Sacrament and the Five Wounds of Jesus. The aim of the brotherhood is service in masses and grand processions where they wear traditional red uniforms. The three nave church inside is a majestic place with monstrous carved wood altars and pews, 1635 cabinets, huge intricate richly gilded altar, behind the choir are carved columns around paintings and lots of gilt, and all paintings refer to the wounds and passion of Jesus hanging on the rough brick walls. The chapel has undergone several renovations most recently in 2005. Free
Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum. 1st floor: several moved houses, a smoke room complete with smoke odour, classroom. 2nd floor: traditional dress, house implements including some great traps, carpentry, farm, blacksmith, flax production, printing boards for dying fabric, music instruments, puppet theatres, folk wood carving (lots of great stuff). 3rd wonderful folk art. A much above average ethnographic museum. PLN 13, 7 reduced*
Museum of Municipal Engineering. Beautifully restored trams, encryption and radios, Morse code, Vernam code (the only code never to have been broken), PLN 15, 10 reduced*
Galicia Jewish Museum. Professor Jonathan Webber documented the traces of Jewish past in southern Poland starting in 1993, then collaborated with a photographer, Chris Schwarz to produce the exhibit that opened in 2004. In 2016, photographs by Jason Francisco were integrated into the exhibit. An exhibit called Traces of Memory, has about 100 excellent photographs with very good descriptions showing the Jewish heritage in this part of Poland, separated into 5 sections: many synagogues, cemeteries, mikveh, schools, meeting halls and the Holocaust: Aucshwitz 960,000 (75,000 Poles, 21,000 Romani, 15,000 Soviet POWs, the Jews came from 90% of Europe), Belzec 450,000. Also many villages where Jews were shot on the spot: Tarnow – of 56,000 Jews, 25,000 were shot nearby. PLN 16, 13 reduced*
Father Bernatek Bridge. This lovely pedestrian bridge has a gentle arc and curve with two sides suspended from a large central metal tube. Hanging from the tube are sculptures of gymnasts and acrobats. Image result for Father Bernatek Bridge.Image result for Father Bernatek Bridge.

Hotel Forum (FORUM Przestrzenie). In the “Modern Architecture Buildingsseries, this was a 6-story hotel but the rooms have been out of service for some time. Now the bottom is a bar, restaurant, fitness centre, sauna, massage and the front a car service garage. It sits on the river across from the old city.
Manggha (Museum of Japanese Art and Technology). No permanent exhibition but one on children’s kimonos dating to the 16th century. Not very interesting. PLN 30, 20 reduced (Krakow Card not usable)
Stained Glass Workshop and Museum. This is a fully functioning stained glass workshop. Seen only by guided tour in English on the hour. See the complete process of making stained glass windows and art. PLN 35, no reduction (private not included on Krakow Card)
EUROPEUM – European Culture Centre. An art gallery with mostly 17th and 18th century art from all over Europe, not exactly my favourite. PLN 15, 10 reduced*
Teatr Groteska. Shows dramas and musicals only in Polish.
Józef Mehoffer House. Jozef Mehoffer (1869-1946) was a painter, graphic artist, polychrome designer and stained glass artist. This was his home from 1932 and is recreated as to when he lived here. His most famous piece was the stained glass windows in the Frieberg Cathedral in Switzerland. PLN 15, 10 reduced*
Collegium Maius (Jegiellonian University Museum). Tells the story of the university started in 1364 by King Kazimierz the Great and this building dates from 1400 (the second oldest university in Europe after Prague). Additional buildings were purchased and constructed. Copernicus studied here from 1491-95. The Swedes plundered it in 1655. Gradually over the years faculties were added – Natural Law, Astronimical Obserbatory. It was named the Jagiellonian Universtiy in 1818 and was controlled by Austrians, Russia, Prussia and Germany until 1870 when it achieved Polish autonomy. Liquifaction of oxygen and nitrogen, adrenaline’s function were discovered here and it led Polish science. Pope John Paul studied here during the war. The Soviet’s repressed the university and many faculties closed. The Collegium Maius was reconstructed in 1964 and the museum opened. In 1993, the medical college returned. See the library, Common Room, Treasury I and II (art scientific instruments), Porfessor Antoni Zoledziowski’s (1711-1783) room, Ambrozy Grabowski’s room, Copernicus Treasury and a lecture room. PLN 12, 6 reduced
It has unusual closing hours.
Sukiennice Museum (The National Museum). Many monumental huge pieces, mostly Polish from the 1800s and 1900s. PLN 25, 15 reduced*
Jan Matejko House. Jan Matejko (1838-93) was a Polish painter and superb draughtsman. He was born in this house and lived here most of his life and moved formally into it in 1872. Contains original furniture and décor over 3 floors. PLN 15, 10 reduced*
Czartoryski Museum. (The National Museum). PLN 15, 10 reduced
National Museum in Krakow: Art of Old Polish. Housed in the Bishop Erazm Ciotek Palace dating from 1505 (destroyed in the Swedish Deluge, renovated many times the last in 1999-2006, it opened as the art of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth – art of Old Poland. Mostly religious art from 12th to the 18th century, many altar retablas and nice polychromes. The other side has 18th and 19th century religious art. One hilarious Russian reading was when Jesus said “and you begat me in your womb without semen”. PLN 15, 10 reduced
Wawel Cathedral. The first cathedral was built here in 1000. Tomb of King Wladyslaw of Varna, died at age 20 in war against the Ottomans in 1444. Over the top reliquary of large silver casket under massive canopy in middle of church of St Stanislaus (bishop of Krakow 1072-79). Altar total gilt. Intricate carving and decoration behind choir stalls. Many tapestries. Wonderful crib (over 5m tall of nativity scene won prize in nativity scene contest in 2010, displayed in Notre Dame in Paris in 2015 and had 2 million visitors). Tombs of many Polish kings. PLN 12, 7 reduced Image result for Wawel Cathedral
Wawel Royal Castle. This is the most important cultural and historical place in Poland as the residence of kings, site of coronations and burials, and the symbol of Polish statehood. Its golden age was from the 14th to the 16th centuries with the last Piast kings and the Jagiellon dynasty who transformed the medieval castle into an Italiante Renaissance palace. It was sacked and looted in the Polish-Swedish wars in the mid-17th century. In the 18th century during the partitions of Poland, it was converted into a barracks for the Austrian army in 1796. It was restored from 1918 and became a museum in 1930.
The museum has the crown treasury, a great amount of art (Italian Renaissance, sculpture, textiles, tapestries, Asian and Middle Eastern art), porcelain, arms and armour and period furniture. Image result for Wawel Royal Castle.Dragon’s Den. A cave that formed 12 million years ago and home to the Wawel dragon, walk through 81m of its 270m corridor and a dragon statue at the exit.
Sandomierska Tower. One of three artillery towers built in 1460, it became a prison. Climb 130 steps for sweeping views of Krakow and the surrounding countryside.
Gardens.
Natural History Museum. Stuffed animals in out dated presentations – glass display cases crammed with critters. Also an old-fashioned aquarium. PLN 20, 16 reduced (Krakow card not accepted)
Krakow Pinball Museum. This is a noisy happening place with about 20 pinball machines all included in the price of admission. Also about 10 classic video games. PLN 40, no reduction.
I had a nap at about 7pm on the street near the Galicia Jewish Museum and didn’t wake up until 3am and then fell asleep again I was so tired from a long walk day. I even missed dinner.
Kazimierz is the Jewish district of Krakow with many Jewish restaurants playing klesper music, Hassidic Jews etc.

Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory Museum. Tells the story of Krakow from the 30s, through the Nazi occupation and after. Warning this place has long ticket lines and is packed with people and follows a course through narrow corridors crowded with tour groups. Come early to avoid the crowds. A film and a small part of the exhibits are on Schindler (1906-64) himself. Very good but lots is newspapers clippings and posters in Polish and German. PLN 24. 16 reduced*
It was confusing as there were two tickets: one for Memory Lane and one for Permanent Exhibition (that was sold out at 11:30). I tried to ask but English was not good enough to make myself understood??
Glass and Ceramics Lipowa 3 Center.
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK). The exhibit was on nature and easily the best contemporary art museum I have ever been to (usually they are terrible crap). Some highlights: X-rays of animals superimposed on plant photographs, a reproduction of the Congo flag using scarab beetles scavenged from Asian restaurants, a metal plate on which carrion has been allowed to decompose etching the plate, a suitcase with a landscape and running water so that you can take nature with you. But some of it was not great. PLN 14, 7 reduced*

Museum of the History of Photography. In the far west of Krakow, this small museum in an 1888 Austrian army shooting gallery. It gives a very good concise history with few photographs except to illustrate techniques. PLN 15, 10 reduced*
Kraków Zoo. The traffic was backed up for 2kms wating to get to the zoo on an August Sunday at noon.
Camaldolese Hermit Monastery. This order of monks was founded in 1602 and from an edict in 1610, men can enter at any day from 10-11am and 3:30-16:30 and women can only enter on 8 days of the year: February 7, June 19, August 15, September 8, December 8 (saint’s days for women).
The 12 hermits living here each live in a separate house and talk only once a day at one meal and then see each other at prayer. There are only 9 places in the world today where these monasteries and rules exist. Image result for Camaldolese Hermit Monastery.

Historical Museum of Krakow. About Krakow from 1939-45-56. Recounts much of what is in the Schindler Museum before and after WWII then after Soviet repression. A lot of writing and personal vignettes. The second small part is the cells with graffiti. PLN9, 7 reduced
Home Army Museum (Museum of Polish Army AK). The exterior of this museum belies its nice inside, a well organized series of exhibits from 1920, especially WWII (some on woman and partisans) and then annexation by the Soviet Union when the Polish feel betrayed by the Allies and the west. Many uniforms, medal, photos and personal momentos, Free
Polish Aviation Museum. I only saw the inside, all Polish except small exhibition on the Apollo missions and planes in the large area. Not very interesting. PLN15, 7 reduced*
Church of our Lady Queen of Poland. This is a lovely new church in the far eastern part of Krakow. The east side is a long curve with a high ceiling and the west flat with a low ceiling. The highlights are the marble floor, shape and the wonderfuil stained glas in bright abstract yellow, greens and blues. The large crucifix is a spectacular bronze with a gaunt Jesus arched out with his tethered hands and feet well behind him.
I entered at 4pm mass with a large crowd – 95% was over 60 but there were still more young people than average in Christian services. Image result for Church of our Lady Queen of Poland.

I had time do decided to drive the 80kms to Tarnow. Tarnow had the largest Jewish population by percentage in Poland and all were killed in the Holocaust

TARNÔW
Tarnow Old Town.
This is a very attractive town center with a wide curving pedestrianized street between wonderful old buildings. Image result for Tarnow Old Town.
District Museum (Siedziba Muzeum Okregowego w Tarnowie). Normally in the large town hall in the center of a square that was under renovation, some of the exhibitions had been moved to one of the 16th century town houses surrounding the square. This house belonged to Schulen and Bruche Kuradratstein, and their entire family was murdered in 1942.
The museum has 5 branches in the area including a Romani house. Shown here were some archaeology, ethnographic material and local history concentrating on WWII and the Jewish population.
Before the war, there were about 26,000 Jews in Tarnow, about 50% of the population. The Germans first bombed the city on Sept 3, 1939 and occupied in on Sept 8. They immediately started confiscating Jewish property and set the synagogues on fire and demolished them. The Judenrat (Jews who were given rights to enforce the rules) was formed and by Dec 8, all Jews had to wear the yellow star badge. The ghetto was formed in March 1941 enclosed by a 2m wood fence with barbed wire on top. All Jews were given a card stamped with either SD (able to perform essential war work) or K. If a K or old, disabled or unable to work, they were routinely taken to the cemetery or forest and shot. Over 4 major “actions” ending with the final liquidation in August and September 1943, the ghetto was slowly emptied by deportation to Belzec (a death camp in east Poland), sent to forced labour camps or in the end sent to Plaszow near Krakow, and Auschwitz concentration camps. Almost none of Tarnow’s Jews survived.

About 50kms east of Krakow at about 9pm, I hit the “slo-mo” of traffic heading home to Krakow after the weekend. Speeds varied from 0 to 30 and I finally pulled over to a large service center on the expressway.

Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines.
Wieliczka Salt Mine. Just 12kms east of Krakow, table salt was produced here since Neolithic times. Since the 13th century, brine welling up to the surface was collected and processed. Wells were sunk and shafts dug to extract the rock salt, originally brought out in 2000kg cylinders. Many chambers were dug and technologies added like the Hungarian horse treadmill and Saxon treadmill for hauling salt to the surface. In WW II the Nazis used the chambers for war related manufacturing. Several thousand Jews were transported from forced labour camps in Plaszow and Mielec to the mine to work in the armament factory here. But manufacturing never began as the Soviet offensive was nearing. Some machines were disassembled and moved. The Jews were moved to factories in the Czech Republic and Austria.
The mine reaches a depth of 327m and extends via horizontal passages and chambers for over 287kms. The salt is naturally of varying shades of grey resembling unpolished granite rather than the white crystalline substance that might be expected.
Commercial salt mining was discontinued in 1996 due to falling salt prices and mine flooding, but it produced salt until 2007 as one of the world’s oldest operating salt mines. Our guide said that the mine is still producing salt and that he was a miner who still had a full shift to work on the day of our tour.
The mine attractions include shafts and a 3.5km visitor’s route (less than 2% of the total length) through labyrinth passageways, displays of historic salt mining technology, 3 underground lakes, four chapels and numerous statues carved by folk miners out of the rock salt, and more contemporary sculptures (Copernicus, Goethe, Jean Paul II, all who had visited the mine). The deepest level reached on the tour is to Level 3 at 135m. The shafts and tunnels are supported by a dizzying array of logs – vertical, horizontal walls and giant truss systems. Metal supports were not used as they would rust.
The highlights for me were the amazing truss systems in the big chambers – the largest was 130m high, and St Kinga’s Chapel – 18m high, 55m long and 15m wide – the walls are covered with wonderful carvings (the Last Supper, Biblical scenes, and bas-reliefs, one with perfect perspective). The chandeliers are made with clear salt crystals, a secondary crystalline formation. Image result for Wieliczka Salt Mine.Image result for Wieliczka Salt Mine.sculptures
In 1978, the mine was added as a World Heritage Site.
The mine can only be seen on guided tours that last 2 hours. This is a very popular place in the summer. Buy your tickets online well ahead of time to have some choice and avoid the long queues. Tours from the city including transportation with hotel pickup are available for any time.
I drove here not knowing what to expect on my first day in Krakow. There were touts everywhere directing you to parking. The place was packed at 10:30 on a August Friday. The parking (for all day that I didn’t need) was PLN 40 and the touts said the ticket line was an hour long and the tour was 3 hours, none of which was true. When I said I was leaving, the price reduced to 30 – these guys are all one big scam. I went to the mine website. There were no tickets available for the Friday, Saturday, or Sunday and most of Monday (after 9am). I bought a ticket for Monday at 8:00am PLB 94, 74 reduced. After I finished the tour, I walked by the same parking lot and asked the price – PLN 20 for the day.

Family House of the Holy Father John Paul II Museum, Wadowice. This apartment building was built in 1845 and in 1919, Mr and Mrs. Karol Wytyla moved in a flat on the first floor with their son Edmot. The flat was a kitchen, bedroom and living room. On May, 1920, Karol Josef was born in the tiny bedroom. In 1929, his mother died and in 1932, Edmond, a doctor, died of scarlet fever. Karol lived here with his father finishing high school. In 1938, they moved to Krakow.
In 1984, the parish priest opened an exhibition in the flat. In 2010, the apartment building was rebuilt and the museum formed. Explore the life of Jean Paul in 16 rooms over 4 floors with 200 memorabilia and many historic photographs.
It can only be seen on guided tours with different languages at specific times. PLN 38, 28 reduced (foreigner language price, less for Polish) I arrived just before an English tour. Parking is especially difficult.

Energylandia
, Zator. This theme park is wildly popular. It has 4 roller coasters including Hyperion, the largest one in Europe. There are many other age-appropriate rides, a water park, Western camp, 5 amphitheatres with shows, a 7-D cinema and 50 places to eat. Multiple price options with the basic admission PLN 129, 79 reduced.

AUSCHWITZ BIRKENAU GERMAN NAZI CONCENTRATION and EXTERMINATION CAMP (1940-1945)
Hours: Line up opens at 07:30. First entry: 09:00. Last entrance 19:00. Closes 20:30. Last guided tour 16:00?
Cost: Free. PLN 10 for parking.
Rules: Need a piece of ID: driver’s license satisfactory.
No packs larger than 30cmX20cmX10cm (leave larger packs in car).
On a Monday in August, I arrived at the line up at 1:45 and didn’t get my free ticket until 4:15. It was a hot day but the line up was in the shade. I was then advised that I could enter without at guide at 5pm so had another 45 minutes to wait in another long line up where it takes a while for them to check your ID again and ascertain that your ticket is the correct time. Then go through a security check that takes also quite a bit of time. All the waiting is an exhausting exercise.
It is not possible to purchase tickets online and waiting in line is the only way. The message is to come early when it opens and avoid the incredible lines (or come with an expensive tour: €50 from Krakow). Coming very late would also work but then you might have a limited time to see the entire large museum, but that depends on how much you want to read.
History. In 1940, the SS expelled all the people in a 40km2 area around the village of Oswiecim in southwest Poland about 100kms west of Krakow and near the Czech border. They took over a former Polish army garrison and the name was changed to Auschwitz. The first prisoners were mainly Polish males. Jews and women came later. Over the next three years a complex of three camps was built along with farms, factories and workshops where the prisoners worked as forced labour.
Auschwitz was in the exact center of Europe from which people came. The furthest locations were Oslo in Norway, Narva in Estonia, Oryol in the Soviet Union, Rhodes and Athens in Greece, Rome, Lyon and Paris in France and The Hague in the Netherlands.
Statistics:
1,300,000 total – 1,100,000 killed, 90% of them Jews
Jews: 1,100,000 (990,000 killed), 34,000 came from other concentration camps. Started arriving in 1942.
Roma: 22,000 (20,000 killed)
Soviet prisoners of war. 15,000. 10,000 were the first to arrive at Auschwitz in October, 1941 and housed in a special area of the camp. (9,000 died within 5 months of hunger, overwork and SS brutality). If unable to work, they were doused with water and froze to death. The survivors were sent to Auschwitz Birkenau when it opened.
25,000 homosexuals, Jehova Witnesses (50% killed)
Hungary: 430,000
Poland: 140-150,000 (50% killed). If Polish prisoners tried to escape, their families were rounded up and sent to Auschwitz and remained until the fugitives were found.
France: 76,000 total in all the concentration camps, 69,000 at Auschwitz. 11,000 of which were children. 2,500 survived
Netherlands: 107,000 of the 140,000 Jews in the NL were in concentration camps, 60,000 at Auschwitz. 5,500 total survived.
Greece: 55,000
Slovakia: 27,000
Belgium: 25,267. 1207 Jews and 75 Roma survived.
Austria: 23,000
Yugoslavia: 10,000
Italy: 7,500
Norway: 690
Children: 232,000, 216,000 were Jews, 11,000 were Roma, 3,000 were Polish and 1000 other Slavic countries. The majority were killed in the gas chambers on arrival. Only 22,000 were ever registered as making it into the camp. When Auschwitz was liberated in January, 1945 by the Red Army, only 650 children were alive, 450 were under the age of 15.
Auschwitz was the only concentration camp that used tattoos to identify prisoners. Cloth badges identified you using the colour of the triangle: black – asocials, pink – homosexuals, green – criminals, purple – Jehovah Witnesses, red – political prisoners, yellow – Jews. The first letter of the country of origin was written on the badge. Until the spring of 1942, every non-Jewish prisoner was photographed.
Daily routine: gong, get up, wash, morning meal, roll call (often lasted several hours and were brutal), marched to work past the camp orchestra in perfect lines to allow counting, work (11 hours very demanding), returned carrying dead from that day, evening meal. Food consisted of ~1500-1700 calories, grossly insufficient for the 11 hours of work. If unable to obtain additional food, usually resulted in death in 5 months.
Prisoners died from overwork, starvation, sadistic punishment, exhaustion, prolonged roll calls, torture, appalling living conditions, medical experiments (several hundred women had sterilization experiments), and arbitrary executions. Many were shot in a courtyard between Blocks 10 and 11 where floggings at a post also occurred. Public hangings were used to instil fear. If too weak or sick to work or in the infirmary, gas chambers or injections of phenol were used.
The gas chambers used Zyklon B, a pesticide. In September 3-5, 1941, experiments were carried out on 600 Soviet POWs and 250 Polish prisoners as human guinea pigs to test the effectiveness of Zyklon B,
The three camps were:
Auschwitz I. Built first, it is the only remaining one of the three camps, is almost completely intact, and is presently the museum, complete with 20 blocks, gas chambers, and reconstructed crematorium.
Prisoners arrived at the railway station in Birkenau. The selection process occurred immediately. Women, children, elderly, disabled and men unfit for work almost immediately went to the gas chambers. Primarily men fit for work made it into the camp.
The two-story red-brick blocks each held 700-1000 prisoners. The individual rooms originally only had straw on the floor for bedding, then mattresses on the floor and finally 3-tiered bunk beds with two prisoners per bunk.
The blocks hold exhibits on all the aspects of camp life – barracks, hospital, prison, extermination. One of the most sobering buildings is the huge piles of personal items each separated out: brushes, salves, hair, glasses, prayer shawls, crutches, artificial limbs and braces, dishes, suitcases, and a lot of shoes.
At least 4 blocks have exhibits set up by individual countries (France, Belgium, Netherlands, Slovakia) that elaborate specifically on what happened to their citizens with many personal vignettes.
Auschwitz II Birkenau. Operational from March, 1943 to November, 1944, its four gas chambers replaced those of Auschwitz I in July 1943. A new women’s camp was started in August. 1942 when the women from I were moved here.
Auschwitz III Monowitz.Image result for AUSCHWITZ BIRKENAUImage result for AUSCHWITZ BIRKENAU

GO TO Poland – Silesia, Lower Silesia, Opole (Katowice, Wrocław, Częstochowa)

NOMAD MANIA Poland – Lesser Poland and Subcarpathia (Kraków, Rzeszów)
World Heritage Sites
Auschwitz Birkenau German Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp (1940-1945)
Historic Centre of Kraków
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Architectural and Park Landscape Complex and Pilgrimage Park
Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines
Wooden Tserkvas of the Carpathian Region in Poland and Ukraine
Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska (Ladomirová : Church of Saint Michael Archangel of Ladomirová (Wooden churches of the Slovak Carpathians)
Tentative WHS
The Dunajec River Gorge in the Pieniny Mountains (20/03/2006)
Sights
Polish Jura Chain (Jura Krakowsko-Częstochowska)
Borders
Poland-Slovakia
Poland-Ukraine
XL: Krosno province far east (Ustrzyki Dolne)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars
Bieszczadzka Forest Railway
Kasprowy Wierch Cableway
Museums:
Przemyśl: National Museum
House Museums/Plantations: Wadowice: Family House of the Holy Father John Paul II Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts Krasiczyn: Krasiczyn Castle
Lancut: Łańcut Castle
Niedzica-Zamek: Niedzica Castle
Nowy Wiśnicz: Wiśnicz Castle
Sułoszowa: Pieskowa Skała
Religious Temples
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: Kalwaria Zebrzydowska Monastery (Klaszto oo. Bernardynow)
Kwiatoń: St. Paraskeva Greek Orthodox church (tserkva)
Ladomirová : Church of Saint Michael Archangel of Ladomirová (Wooden churches of the Slovak Carpathians – actually in Slovakia, not Poland)
World of Nature
Bieszczady
Magurski
Tatra
Festivals
Juwenalia
Theme Parks: Zator: Energylandia
Waterfalls
Mickiewicza Waterfall (Wodogrzmoty Midkiewicza)
Siklawa Falls
Caves:
xJaskinia Wielka Śnieżna (in Lubin area?) Jaskinia Raj?
Smocza Jama
Open-Air Museums: Sanok: Ethnographic open-air museum in Sanok (Museum of Folk Architecture)
Railway Museums: Chabówka: Railway Museum (Skansen Taboru Kolejowego w Chabowce)

Villages and Small Towns
BIECZ
CHOCHOLÓW
JAROSLAW

SANOK
Open-Air Museums: 
Sanok: Ethnographic open-air museum in Sanok (Museum of Folk Architecture)
ZALIPIE (Sight)

XL
ZAKOPANE

Museums: Tatra Museum
Metros, Funiculars and Cable cars: Gubałówka Hill Funicular.
World of Nature: Tatra NP
Ski Resorts: Zakopane

European Cities
PRZEMSL  

KRAKÔW
World Cities and Popular Towns
World Heritage Sites: Historic Centre of Kraków
Airports: Kraków (KRK)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Kraków Trams
Museums:
Collegium Maius
Czartoryski Museum
EUROPEUM – European Culture Centre
Galicia Jewish Museum
Glass and Ceramics Lipowa 3 Center
Historical Museum of Krakow
Home Army Museum (Museum of Polish Army AK)
Krakow Pinball Museum
Manggha
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK)
Museum of Municipal Engineering
Museum of the History of Photography
National Museum in Krakow: Art of Old Polish
Natural History Museum
Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory Museum
Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum
Stained Glass Museum
Sukiennice Museum
House Museums/Plantations
Jan Matejko House
Józef Mehoffer House
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Wawel Royal Castle (Sight)
Religious Temples
Camaldolese Hermit Monastery
Church of our Lady Queen of Poland
Corpus Christi Basilica
Divine Mercy Sanctuary (Chapel of St Joseph in Krakow)
St. Mary’s Basilica
Wawel Cathedral (Sight)
Modern Architecture Buildings: Hotel Forum (FORUM Przestrzenie)
Pedestrian Bridges: 
Father Bernatek Bridge
Entertainment/Things to do: Teatr Groteska, Krakow
Zoos: Kraków Zoo
Botanical Gardens: Botanical Garden of the University of Krakow
Aquariums: Aquarium and Natural History Museum in Kraków
Malls/Department Stores: Krakow: Galeria Krakowska
Markets
Nowy Kleparz
Plac Nowy flea market (Saturdays)
Aviation Museums: Krakow: Polish Aviation Museum
The Dark Side: Vestiges of Jewish Ghettos (Warsaw, Krakow, Tarnow, Lodz)

NOWY SQCA
Open-Air Museums: 
Nowy Sącz: The Sądecki Ethnographic Park

RZESZÔW

Airports: 
Rzeszów (RZE)
Museums: Rzeszow Regional Museum
Pedestrian Bridges: Rzeszow: Footbridge (Most Tadeusza Mazowieckiego)

TARNÔW
Tarnow Old Town – Sight
Museums: 
District Museum (Siedziba Muzeum Okregowego w Tarnowie)

 

About admin

I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am "home", are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking. I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.
This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.