North Macedonia – Vardar and East (Skopje) May 7-9, 2019
I entered from Bulgaria in the far southeast corner and first saw several places in the North Macedonia – West section. These two waterfalls are in Vardar and East
Smolare Falls. Only 11kms from the Bulgarian border, this is the highest waterfall in Bulgaria at 39.5m. It is on the Lemnitsa River deep in Mount Belasica at 630m elevation. After a day of rain, there was reasonable water flow.
Park and walk through the Atlantis Restaurant to start the trail. It is 550m long, a climb on good stone steps. The waterfall falls down a black granite face with white veining. There is no pool. I saw five gorgeous salamanders along the trail – a deep black, four with bright orange spots and one with bright yellow in a twisting strip along its back and spots.
Unfortunately all the 14 or so garbage cans along the trail were overflowing with garbage strewn on the ground. Unbelievable. They should remove the cans and put up signs “Pack it in, Pack it out”.
Koleshino Waterfall. About 10kms west of Smolare, this 16m high waterfall is a wide cascade down mossy cliffs. The short 5 minute trail goes through a nice forest with many picnic tables and the same pile of garbage.
I then saw the places in North Macedonia West and then drove to Skopje.
Determined to see all of Skopje in one day, I was off early to see the several sights outside the city without opening times.
Unfortunately (or auspiciously) May 7 was the day Pope Francis I made the first visit of any pope to North Macedonia. The entire city was closed down with all the museums closed (for security reasons!) and streets in the downtown core blocked off. 2,700 policemen from all over N Macedonia were here for security with groups every 25 metres. Helicopters circled the city. People came from as far as Croatia (a mostly Christian country) to see him.
I found a parking place and tried to go down to the main square, the focal point of the visit. Security was extreme with complete bag searches and pat downs. I was told I had to leave my umbrella at the checkpoint, returned to the van, got my computer electrical cord and rain jacket and returned to the square.
The crowds were huge. To enter the main square area, tickets had been available until May 3 and were by location in the square. The singing started at 11am and the pope arrived in his pope mobile at about noon. He gave his homily and later a speech all in Italian (nobody understood a word), guests spoke and he left the same way. It was all anti-climactic and more than a little boring.
When I drove out of town to go to Kokino at 6pm (hours after he had left the country), there were still cops every 50m for 10kms from the centre. The whole thing must have cost millions, money that could have been better spent in this poor country. And for a church rooted in the 15th century with beliefs so outdated as to make it meaningless: homosexuality, divorce, birth control, condoms, celibacy of priests (the root cause of priests sodomizing millions of little boys and for which this pope has done nothing) and the corruption rife through the church. I believe that civil law suits should be undertaken wherever this church exists, their land and buildings taken away and them bankrupted.
I had a walk about seeing all the things that were open.
SKOPJE (pop 507,000)
Skopje is the capital and largest city of North Macedonia. It is the country’s political, cultural, economic, and academic center.
History. The territory of Skopje has been inhabited since at least 4000 BC; remains of Neolithic settlements have been found within the old Kale Fortress that overlooks the modern city centre. Originally a Paeonian city, Scupi became the capital of Dardania in the second century BC. On the eve of the 1st century AD, the settlement was seized by the Romans and became a military camp. When the Roman Empire was divided into eastern and western halves in 395 AD, Scupi came under Byzantine rule from Constantinople. During much of the early medieval period, the town was contested between the Byzantines and the Bulgarian Empire, whose capital it was between 972 and 992.
From 1282, the town was part of the Serbian Empire and acted as its capital city from 1346 to 1371. In 1392, Skopje was conquered by the Ottoman Turks who called it Üsküb, with this name also being in use in English for a time. The town stayed under Ottoman control for over 500 years, serving as the capital of pashasanjak of Üsküp and later the Vilayet of Kosovo. At that time the city was famous for its oriental architecture. In 1912, it was annexed by the Kingdom of Serbia during the Balkan Wars. During the First World War the city was seized by the Bulgarian Kingdom, and after this war, it became part of the newly formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (Kingdom of Yugoslavia) becoming the capital of the Vardarska banovina. In the Second World War the city was conquered by the Bulgarian Army, which was part of the Axis powers. In 1944, it became the capital city of Democratic Macedonia (later Socialist Republic of Macedonia), which was a federal state, part of Democratic Federal Yugoslavia (later Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia). The city developed rapidly after World War II, but this trend was interrupted in 1963 when it was hit by a disastrous earthquake. In 1991, it became the capital city of an independent Macedonia.
Skopje is located on the upper course of the Vardar River, and is located on a major north-south Balkan route between Belgrade and Athens. It is a center for metal-processing, chemical, timber, textile, leather, and printing industries. Industrial development of the city has been accompanied by development of the trade, logistics, and banking sectors, as well as an emphasis on the fields of transportation, culture and sport. According to the last official count from 2002, Skopje had a population of 506,926 inhabitants; according to official estimates, the city had a population of 544,086 inhabitants, as of June 30, 2015, meaning slightly more than a quarter of all North Macedonia’s population lives in the city and its immediate surrounding area.[7]
STOBI
Stobi was an ancient town of Paeonia, later conquered by Macedon, and later turned into the capital of the Roman province of Macedonia Salutaris (now near Gradsko in North Macedonia). It is located on the main road that leads from the Danube to the Aegean Sea and is considered by many to be the most famous archaeological site in North Macedonia. Stobi was built where the Erigón River (mod. Crna) joins the Axiós River (mod. Vardar), making it strategically important as a center for both trade and warfare.
History
Pre-Roman period. Stobi developed from a Paeonian settlement established in the Archaic period. Located on the northern side of a terrace, the early town covered an area of about 25,000 m2 (270,000 sq ft). Its proximity to the junction of the Erigón and Axiós Rivers as well as its position in the fertile central Vardar valley allowed it quickly to develop a flourishing economy and to establish trade. Nearby Mount Klepa was a lucrative source of marble. The initial Paeonian population was later supplemented by other immigrant groups. It is believed that in 217 BCE, Philip V annexed Paionia during his campaign against the Dardani who had entered Bylazora, the largest Paeonian town.
Roman period. In 168 BC, the Romans defeated Perseus and Macedonia was divided into four nominally independent republics. In 148 BC, the four areas of Macedonia were brought together in a unified Roman province. In the reign of Augustus the city grew in size and population. The city grew further in 69 BC once it became a municipium, at which time it began to produce coins printed with Municipium Stobensium. The citizens of Stobi enjoyed Ius Italicum and were citizens of Rome. Most belonged to the Roman tribes Aemila and Tromentina. During Roman times Stobi was the capital of the Roman province Macedonia Salutaris. Emperor Theodosius I stayed in Stobi in 388. Late in the 5th century the city underwent a terrible turn of events. In 479, it was robbed by Theodoric, an Ostrogothic king. The citizens reconstructed the city, but in 518 it was struck by a powerful earthquake. Avaro-Slavic invasions in the 6th century destroyed the city’s economy and infrastructure.
Historical Sights
Northern Basilica (5th century), Central Basilica and synagogue can be entered from the Via Principalis street. The Central Basilica was built on a synagogue at the beginning of the 5th century and had two building phases. The floor of the synagogue was discovered 1.5 m (4.9 ft) under the level of the Central Basilica. Dating from the 4th century, it was built on an older synagogue from the 3rd century, created by the father of the Synagogue of Stobi, Tiberius Claudius Polycharmos. Inside were two vases dating from 121 to 125. House of the Psalms, in front of the Central Basilica, has a central room with a mosaic floor, a room with colonnades, a big pool and columns in the western part of the yard. Via Axia is one of the main streets in Stobi, oriented east-west. Only a small part of the street has been discovered. Main Town Public Fountain. Magnae Thermae, or Big Bath, discovered in 1931, consisted of two rooms: one large room with a statue and a pool made of stone blocks. The reconstructed bath was in use until the late 6th century. Via Principalis Inferior was a major street of the city running from the central basilica to the main town fountain, then to house of Partenius, the ‘Palace of Theodosius’ and the house of Psalms. House of Peristerius. From the late 4th or the early 5th centuryIn the eastern part is an excellent example of floor mosaics and in the middle there is a fountain made of marble. . Via Theodosia street is parallel to Via Axia. Palace of Theodosius was where the emperor Theodosius first stayed while in Stobi. The floor is covered with marble blocks and the peristyle with mosaics in the technique opus sectile. The other rooms are also decorated, dating from the 4th to the 5th century. House of Partenius. Valavica is a complex of connected shops and residences, built on older objects. The name describes only an earlier phase of the complex, as later in the 5th century there was also a workshop for painting and making carpets. The complex was in use from the 1st century to the 6th century. Episcopal Basilica, dating from the 5th and 6th centuries, with a baptistery to the south. A peacock from the baptistery’s mosaic floor is depicted on the reverse of the Macedonian 10 denars banknote, issued in 1996, and of the 10 denars coin, issued in 2008.
About 5kms west of Skopje, this was a NM “Sight”.
Gradski Trgovski Center (City Trade Center). This large two-level shopping mall in the centre of Skopje occupies at least 2 city blocks. It has all the usual stores and 2 apartment buildings in the middle.
There are several great statues in and near the main square. A huge one to Alexander the Great is in the middle. It has Alexander on a horse, several marble bas-reliefs surrounding the stone column and several soldiers.
A touching one with a mother stretching out for the hand of two children is near the mall.
Many restaurants with large covered outdoor seating line the west side of the river.
There are 4 bridges in central Skopje, three of them pedestrian. I crossed the traffic bridge covered in bronze plaques.
Art Bridge. Built in 2012, this marble bridge is decorated with 36 bronze statues of Macedonian artists, writers, composers and actors. It cost 2.5 million euros, is 83m long and 9.2m wide increasing to 12m in the centre and has lovely ornate lamp posts.
Mother Theresa Square. There are several plaques with her sayings: “Jesus said love one another, He didn’t say love the whole world”. “Smile at one another, smile at your wife, smile at your husband, smile at your children, smile at each other, it doesn’t matter who it is. And that will help to grow up in greater love for each other”. “Everything that is not given is lost”.
Sculpture Ensembles. There are many magnificent sculptures in the square on the east side of the river: Karposh Uprising (huge with soldiers and lions), Monument to St Cyrus and Methodius, one to motherhood (pregnant woman, woman breastfeeding and two holding children), all the statues lining the marble wall along the east side of the river and two great fountains – one with horses and one with lions. The lovely Opera and Ballet theatre is also here.
Bridge of Civilization. Built in 2013, it has statues of distinguished people from Macedonia and around the world.
Stone Bridge. With 10 piers, three in the river, this is a wide modern looking pedestrian bridge.
Holocaust Memorial Center for the Jews of Macedonia (Holocaust Museum of North Macedonia) in the NM “The Dark Side” series, this is a wonderful museum with a timeline of important world and Jewish events, videos (on the rise of the Nazi party and others) and exhibits on the expulsion of Jews from Spain in 1492 and Portugal in 1496 (many came to the Balkans and Turkey), great pieces with testimonies on 6 concentration camps (three of them “killing camps especially Treblinka) in Poland, a box car, one of the diesel engines used to produce carbon monoxide and many others. I read and listened to every display. 100 Den
Old Bazaar. On the east side of the square is this series of pedestrianized lanes with many cafes and shops with clothes and jewelry.
Sveti Spas Church (Church of the Ascension of Jesus, Church of the Holy Saviour). Built in the 14th century and destroyed by fire in 1689, the highlight is the masterful 1817-25 wood cared iconostasis. There is a museum to the revolutionary Gore Delchev in the basement. 120 Den
Mustafa Pasha Mosque. Built of white limestone and marble, it has a 3-domed, 4-arched portico and is one huge dome inside with a grey mihrab and mimbar. Patterns of leaves decorate under the dome, around the windows and extend down the four corners. Free
Kale Fortress. Occupying the top of the hill, this has reconstructed bastion walls and 2 square towers but nothing can be entered and there is little to see. Free
As I finished my day early, I decided to drive east and north of Skopje to see a few sights there.
Archaeo-astronomical Site Kokino (Kokino megalithic observatory). A tentative WHS: (30/01/2009) this has evidence of activity dating from the Early Bronze Age (21st – 17th century), Middle Bronze Age (17th -14th centuries), late Bronze Age (14th -11th centuries) and the beginning of the Iron Age (11th -9th centuries) and is the only place in the world that served both as a religious sanctuary and an astronomical observatory. 70kms NE of Skopje, it is on Tatichev Komen Peak (1013m) above Kokino village. The people observed from four artificially carved platforms the solstices through cut marks in the rocks made at very precise locations. The moon, sun and star Aledbara were all used in the calculations.
On top of the rugged mountain are a ruined sanctuary wall and 4 platforms, one with carved seats. A sign said tickets 2€ for foreigners. I slept here and the temperature went down to 2°.
Kumanovo. In the NM “European Cities” series, it is between Skopje and Kikono.
Kratovo. In the NM “small towns” series, it is south east of Kikono. It lies on the western slopes of Mount Osogovo at an altitude of 600 metres (2,000 ft) above sea level. Having a mild and pleasant climate, it is located in the crater of an extinct volcano. It is known for its bridges and towers.
Marko’s Monastery. A real drive about to get here (71kms from Kokino), this small 2-story monastery has a stone/brick church with frescoes painted on all the walls, arches and ceiling, great wood beams and an intricately carved cross on the iconostasis. 3 nuns were singing during mass. Free
VODNO MOUNTAIN (1,065m). This is the big mountain that looms over Skopje to the west. The Mount Vodno Cable Car (100 Den return) accesses the high point of the mountain at Millennium Cross. It is a 5km drive up here and Google Maps gives no indication on how to get to the base of the cable car. It operates only from 10am with the last car at 19:30 up and last down at 19:45 (April to September, slightly shorter the rest of the year). The lower access is at 570m and the upper station is at 1,065m.
I had come up the day before at 8am but didn’t want to wait around. So I returned and took the first car of the day.
Millennium Cross. At 66m, it is one of the highest crosses in the world, a symbol of the 2000 year history of Christianity. It is lit at night and can be seen from a huge distance. On top there are several radio communication towers and a huge concrete tower is under construction. There is little to do but see the 360° panorama. One sign points to the south naming mountains but is only in Cyrillic. Snow covered mountains line the horizon to the west. Skopje is down to the west.
Museum of the City of Skopje. On the site of the 1837 original train station (replaced in 1937), it has Roman sculpture and artifacts, ethnology, icons and details the magnitude six, 1963 earthquake that destroyed much of Skopje. Free
Memorial House of Mother Teresa. Mother Theresa (1910-96) was born Gendje Bojodjiu in Skopje. In 1929 she arrived in India and came to Calcutta two years later where she developed several clinics for the poor (Home of the Dying, Leprosy centre and others). She was a very decorated woman courted at various times by many world leaders: Nobel Peace Prize 1979, British Order of Merit 1983, US Presidential Medal of Freedom, Beautified at the Vatican 2003 (St Peter’s Square was completely packed) and in 2016, was declared a saint. The “house” had several photos of her life including many from her childhood. On the top floor is a lovely glass walled chapel with a skylight dome. Free
Archaeological Museum of Macedonia. In a lovely building on the river between Mother Theresa Square and the Sculpture ensemble, the first floor has Roman sculptures and a huge numastic collection. Free
The second floor has the usual artifacts from all the Ages and empires, including a few nice pieces of Roman gold. 200 Den
Museum of the Macedonian Struggle. Detailing the 1904-5 original struggle against the Ottomans and the subsequent Balkan War, it finishes with exhibits on victims of the Communist regime. 300 Den
National Gallery of Macedonia. In a lovely 2-sided Turkish bath with a huge dome and barrel-vaulted rooms, it was entirely the single exhibit entitled “Photography in Years” with some nice pieces and large-format slides hanging from the ceiling. 50 Den
Museum of Macedonia. In a tired building, the history exhibit were under renovation. The three-floor ethnography section was more interesting than usual. I was the only one there. 60 Den
Museum of Contemporary Art. This huge gallery has some great exhibition spaces but almost no art – a photographic exhibit with an abstract bent and one called Freedom Space using wood models to show how architecture had improved some renovations of local buildings. Free
St. Clement of Ohrid. This round church covered by a huge dome supported by 8 columns. It is frescoed completely. The huge iconostasis covers ⅓ of the room and has 36 icons on it.
Skopje Zoo. I don’t like zoos much – I think it is inhumane to lock up wild animals. This is a tired, old fashioned zoo. The name of each animal was repeated in English but not the information. 50 Den
Macedonian Museum of Natural History. This is a tired, old fashioned NH museum, almost all with no Englsih, with exhibits on rocks, some good mastodon/ancient mammal fossils, dried plants, insects, fish, birds, snakes, more birds and finally mammals. The highlight was the “dissected” fish and a rabbit. 60 Den
Church of St. Panteleimon, Gorno Nerezi. On the slope of the east side of Vodno Mountain, this small monastery has an equally small church with moderately faded frescoes on all the walls and ceiling. This was my last “sight” in North Macedonia.
Caršija. A NM “Sight”, Google Maps took me to a place on the road very near the Kosovo border on the top of a mountain. the only reference in Wikipedia is to a town in Bosnia.
I crossed into Kosovo at about 5pm. Again my car insurance was not valid here and it was necessary to purchase 15 days of insurance for €15. I also got the agent to take all the N Macedonian money I had as I never plan on returning to this country in the future.
NOMAD MANIA Macedonia – Vardar and East (Skopje, Veles, Strumica)
Tentative WHS: Archaeo-astronomical Site Kokino (30/01/2009) (Kokino megalithic observatory)
Borders:
Bulgaria-Macedonia
Greece-Macedonia
Kosovo-Macedonia
Macedonia-Serbia
XL:
Dojran Lake area
Lake Prespa Southwestern shore (Kon’sko)
Religious Temples: Osogovo Monastery (Saint Joachim Osogovski)
Festivals:
Strumica OPEN Festival
Taksirat
Waterfalls:
Smolare Falls
Koleshino Waterfall
Villages and Small Towns:
Berovo
Bogomila
Kratovo
European Cities:
KUMANOVO
SKOPJE
Sights:
Caršija
Stobi
Millennium Cross, Vodno Mountain
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Mount Vodno Cable Car (accesses Mount Cross)
Airports: Skopje (SKP)
Museums:
Archaeological Museum of Macedonia
Contemporary Art Museum
Macedonian Museum of Natural History
Memorial House of Mother Teresa
Museum of Macedonia
Museum of the City of Skopje
Museum of the Macedonian Struggle
National Gallery of Macedonia (National Museum of Macedonia)
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Kale Fortress
Religious Temples:
Mustafa Pasha Mosque
St. Clement of Ohrid
Sveti Spas Church (Church of the Ascension of Jesus)
Zoos: Skopje Zoo
The Dark Side: Holocaust Memorial Center for the Jews of Macedonia (Holocaust Museum of North Macedonia)
Monuments: Sculpture Ensembles
Markets: Old Bazaar
Pedestrian Bridges:
Art Bridge
Stone Bridge
Malls/Department Stores: Gradski Trgovski Centar (City Trade Center)
Festivals:
Skopje Jazz Festival
Basker Fest
Dance Fest Skopje