I flew on Middle East Airlines from Beirut to Amman (130$), a 70 minute flight. Flying over Israel and Jordan, there was only rocky desert below. There is an airport shuttle (3JD) but it drops you off at the 7th circle, a ten minute drive from downtown. Taxi drivers descended on us. They initially wanted 10JD and we negotiated 6JD. There was some confusion when I was dropped off at my hotel and I didn’t leave my share. So the woman I shared the taxi with refused to pay him more than her share – 3JD and that was all he got. It turns out that 3JD is the fair taxi cost from the 7th circle – so funny.
The woman I shared the taxi with was on my flight. She is an MD in the Canadian military and lives in Victoria, 2½ hours from me!
I stayed at the Boutique Hotel and had booked one night on booking.com for $21, as there were no dorm rooms on the site. When I arrived I cancelled the booking and got a dorm room for 6JD/night for 4 nights (no breakfast). Just down the street is Hashem Restaurant, world-famous for its food: falafel, humus, other dips and pita.
A Chinese fellow in my dorm had taken a taxi to the bus station to buy a ticket, leaving his luggage in the taxi. When he got back, the taxi was gone with all his stuff. He was beside himself. It is obvious that taxis are going to be a major issue in Jordan.
I had dinner with a Swedish woman who has lived for 4 years in Aqaba with her husband and two children. She works for Maersk, the large Danish shipping company and her husband has a good job in the port. They have decided, while their children are young, to work as expats around the world, live in different places and explore the world that way. They plan on moving to Nigeria soon to continue their adventure.
They have a Filipino nanny who lives with her husband independently and works for them 8 hours a day basically babysitting the children. She is paid $400 per month, twice what a live in nanny would make and is free to go as she pleases. Almost all expats have a nanny/maid, almost all Filipino. The live–in nannies work on a contract, their passports are held by the family, they work 16 hour days, 7 days a week and only go home for 2 weeks every 2 years. This is remarkably similar to the “slave” labour situation in the UAE.
Almost all the men who work as foreigners in Jordan are Egyptian – not South Asians as in UAE.
Jordan has a poor economy – they import 75% and export 25% of their goods. The economy is based on the export of phosphate for fertilizer mined in the Dead Sea. There is no industry and the rest of the economy is based on tourism. And that has all but died. Aqaba is on the Red Sea and used to have 7 plane-loads of tourists arriving per week during the winter – mostly Brits and northern Europeans. Now there is one per week. The hotels in Aqaba are at 5% occupancy. This is driven by the fears of Europeans about terrorism and violence.
The summer tourist season is from the Middle East, mostly Saudis and Emiratis. It is still 45-50°C but is a dry heat, not the almost 100% humidity of the Arabian Peninsula. There is a significant sex tourism industry with these Arabs, mostly Eastern European women.
AMMAN (pop 2.8 million, now more like 5 million with all the Syrian refugees)
Jordan’s capital city, Amman, is one of the easiest cities in the region to enjoy the Middle East experience. The city has two distinct parts: Western Amman, with leafy residential districts, cafes, bars, modern malls and art galleries; and Eastern Amman, more traditional, conservative and Islamic.
At the heart of the city is the chaotic, labyrinthine ‘downtown’. At the bottom of the city’s many hills, and overlooked by the magisterial Citadel, it features Roman ruins and the hubbub of Jordanian life – best understood by joining the locals between mosque, souq and coffeehouse.
History. Despite its ancient lineage, Amman as it appears today is largely a mid-20th century creation – a homogeneous, mostly low-rise, cream-coloured city of weathered concrete buildings, some clad in white marble, others in need of a facelift.
Impressive remnants of a Neolithic settlement from 8500 BC were found in the 1970s at Ain Ghazal in Eastern Amman. They illustrate a sophisticated culture that produced the world’s earliest statues – some in the archaeological museum.
Jebel al-Qala’a is the present site of the Citadel, and one of the oldest and most continuously inhabited parts of the city, established around 1800 BC. Referred to subsequently in the Old Testament as Rabbath, the city was besieged by King David who burnt many inhabitants alive in a brick kiln.
Visitors see it’s Egyptian heritage each time they see a company or restaurant called Philadelphia, after the Ptolemy ruler Philadelphus (283–246 BC). He rebuilt the city during his reign and it was named Philadelphia after him. It was one of the cities of the Roman Decapolis before being assumed into the Roman Empire under Herod in around 30 BC. Philadelphia, meaning ‘City of Brotherly Love’, was redesigned in grand Roman style, with a theatre, forum and Temple to Hercules, the highlight of downtown.
From about the 10th century little more is heard of Amman until the 19th century when a colony of Circassians settled there in 1878. In 1900 it was estimated to have just 2000 residents. In 1921 it became the center of Transjordan when King Abdullah made it his headquarters. Following the formation of the state of Israel in 1948, Amman absorbed a flood of Palestinian refugees, and doubled its population in a mere two weeks. It continues to grow, first by Iraqi refugees and now Syrians.
Built originally on seven hills (like Rome), Amman now spreads across 19 hills and is therefore not a city to explore on foot. That said, the downtown area – known locally as il-balad – with its budget hotels, restaurants, banks, post offices and ancient sites, is compacted into a relatively small area.
DOWNTOWN
Citadel. On Jebel al-Qala’a – at 850m, Amman’s highest hill, as well as the longest inhabited part of the city. The complex includes excavated ruins of a Umayyad palace dating from about AD 720, of which the domed audience hall is the most impressive. The most striking attractions are two giant standing pillars, the remains of the Roman Temple of Hercules, constructed by Marcus Aurelius (AD 161–180). From under these pillars, there’s a panoramic view of the Roman theatre downtown.
Included in the Citadel’s admission fee is the National Archaeological Museum. Exhibits include three 8500-year-old statues from Ain Ghazal, thought to be the world’s oldest example of sculpture.
Roman Theatre. This restored theatre is an impressive remnant of ancient Philadelphia and vies with the Citadel as the main historical highlight of Amman. Cut into the hillside and able to hold 6000 people, the theatre was built in the 2nd century AD during the reign of Antoninus Pius (AD 138–161). Performances are sometimes staged here in summer. The wings of the theatre are home to two quaint museums, the Folklore Museum and the Museum of Popular Traditions, which include displays of traditional costumes and jewelry.
The row of columns immediately in front of the theatre is all that’s left of the forum once one of the largest public squares (about 100m by 50m) in imperial Rome. On the eastern side of what was the forum stands the 500-seat Odeon. Built about the same time as the Roman Theatre, it served mainly as a venue for musical performances – and still hosts the occasional concert.
Hashemite Square, in front of the Roman Theatre is a good place to relax.
Nymphaeum. Built in AD 191, this elaborate public fountain was once a large, two-storey complex with water features, mosaics, stone carvings and possibly a 600 sq metre swimming pool. Up until 1947, the ancient stream and Roman bridge still stood where the road now runs. There’s little to see, but it gives an idea of the grandeur of ancient Philadelphia.
Darat al-Funun. A tranquil complex dedicated to contemporary art, the heritage buildings house a small art gallery, library, artists’ workshops and a program of exhibitions, lectures and films.
King Hussein Mosque. Built by King Abdullah I in 1924, this compact mosque is in the heart of downtown on the site of an ancient mosque built in AD 640. Interesting as a hive of activity rather than for any architectural splendor, the mosque precinct is a popular local meeting place. Non-Muslims can enter.
Jordan Museum. Well laid out with good English descriptions. Not sure if worth the 5JD entrance fee.
Turkish Baths (hammam). The large, muscular attendants (male or female, depending on your sex) could easily retrain as Sumo wrestlers and you can rely on them to find parts of the body you didn’t know you had. A largely Ottoman creation, they are places of social gathering. The full service of pummeling, scrubbing and nose-hair plucking costs around JD28. Also, be sure to bring a modest swimming costume. Al-Pasha Turkish Bath.is easiest to find if you’re coming along Abu Bakr as-Siddiq St (Rainbow St) from the 1st Circle; it’s the fifth street on the right. Taxis know it as near Ahliya School for Girls.
Rainbow Street. Has many bars and restaurants usually at twice the price of downtown establishments.
Raghadan Palace is a crown palace located in the Royal Court compound of Al-Maquar. Constructed in 1926, the property became the residence of King Abdullah I. The palace is constructed in a traditional Islamic style, with coloured glass windows modelled on the al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem.
Raghadan Palace is used for hosting meetings with visiting heads of state and for other ceremonial events. The current monarch does not live at the property. The palace is guarded by a ceremonial unit of Circassian guards, who also patrol the Basman Palace.
Martyrs’ Memorial is a memorial and museum next to the Amman Sport city. Established in 1977, it showcases a rare collection of Jordan’s military weapons, clothing and vehicles. It also serves as a memorial to the martyrs who gave their lives in the service of Jordan as early as 1915, starting with the Great Arab Revolution which was led by King Hussein’s grandfather Hussein bin Ali.
Amman Rotana Hotel is a 185 metres tall up-scale hotel, located in the district of Al-Abdali.
Naji Al-Hamshari Mosque
AZRAQ & THE EAST
The landscape east of Amman quickly turns into a featureless stone desert, known as the badia, cut by twin highways running to Iraq and Saudi Arabia. It has its own haunting, if barren, beauty, partly because it seems so limitless: indeed this is what 80% of Jordan looks like, while supporting only 5% of its population. A whole assortment of ruined, known collectively as ‘desert castles’, have lured people into the wilderness for centuries. Most of these isolated outposts were built or adapted by the Umayyad rulers in the late 7th and early 8th centuries.
Accommodation and public transport is almost non-existent out here so most travellers visit the region on a tour from budget hotels in Amman. Alternatively, hire a car and make a thorough job of it by staying overnight in Azraq.
Azraq Wetland Reserve is a oasis for migratory birds established in 1978 and covers 12 square kilometres. The natural springs dried up in 1992 and most migratory birds subsequently moved away from the area. Artificial springs are maintained today in order to keep the site a tourist destination.
The wetlands were created some 250,000 years ago as a result of being fed by aquifers that corresponded with geological changes. Azraq has, since ancient times, been the crossroads of both human trade routes and bird migrations. Millions of cubic meters of freshwater attracted camels caravans carrying spices and herbs traveling between Arabia, Mesopotamia, and Syria. Millions of migrating birds stopped in Azraq between Africa and Europe. However, in the 1960s, water began to be pumped to support Amman’s booming population. By 1992, however, the springs dried up. All the water buffalos of Azraq died, and many migrating birds went to the Sea of Galilee instead.
Today, the Azraq wetlands are in “ecological collapse”. The 10,000,000 cubic metres (353,146,667 cu ft) of water per year provided by the Jordanian Ministry of Water to maintain Azraq is only sufficient to restore Azraq to 10% of its original size. Today, there are more than 500 illegal wells still pumping water from Azraq. In just 37 years the numbers of migrant birds have reduced from 347,000 in 1967 to 1200 birds in 2000. Azraq provides drinking water for one-quarter of Amman. 25 square kilometres once covered by wetlands have now dried up.
DESERT CASTLES
There are dozens of ruins belonging to the Damascus-based Umayyad dynasty (662-750 AD) scattered across the gravel plains of the Eastern Desert. They are believed to be way-stations, hunting lodges, bath houses and pleasure palaces on a route that connected Damascus with Jerusalem via Amman.
Each of the two sets takes a long, full day to cover. You can combine the two sets by staying the night in Azraq and using Hwy 5 to cut between the two.
Set 1: Desert Castle Loop (between Amman and Azraq): Qasr al-Hallabat, Qasr al-Azraq, Qasr ‘Uweinid, Qusayr Amra, Qasr al-Kharana, Qasr Al-Mushatta. Most tours visit the three below. We hired a car through the hostel and visited all three in about 5 hours round tirp . The cost was 65 JD. The driver would not bargain as this is what his company charges. The car was wi-fi equipped.
Qasr al-Kharana
Located in the middle of a vast treeless plain, this 34m on a side, square fortress was most likely the inspiration of the ‘desert castles’ moniker. The two-storey structure is marked by round, defensive towers (actually solid) and narrow arrow slits (diagonal and more likely air and light ducts).
The origins are obscure but it was built either by the Romans or Byzantines, but what you see today is the result of renovations carried out by the Umayyads in 710 AD. 60 rooms surround a central courtyard. All have arches and domed ceilings. Two rooms are special with rosettes lining the upper walls, incised columns supporting the arches, decorative squares in the ceiling and other features.
Qusayr Amra
One of the best preserved desert buildings of the Umayyads, it is UNESCO World Heritage listed and the only Umayyad building in the world with preserved frescoes. The building seen was part of a much larger complex and served as caravanserai, bathhouse and hunting lodge. It is famous for its rather risqué 8th century frescoes of wine, nude women and hunting scenes. Other features include mosaic floors in two side rooms, a bath house and a restored well. It is 26km from Azraq.
Qasr al-Azraz This black basaltic castle was built by the Romans, used by the Umayyad, rebuilt by the Arabs to fight the Crusaders and visited by Lawrence in 1917 during the Arab revolt. It was originally 3-storeys high but much of it crumbled in an earthquake in 1927. It does have interesting arches and roof structure.
Set 2: ‘Eastern Desert Highway’ or Hwy 10, which leads from the town of Mafraq to the Iraqi border. This other set lies on the so-called ‘Eastern Desert Highway’, or Hwy 10, which leads from the town of Mafraq to the Iraqi border. These are much more time-consuming to visit.
Al Qastal. A town was originally an Umayyad settlement, it remains the oldest and most complete such settlement in the Near East. The remains of the minaret at Qastal is especially important as it is the only one extant from the Umayyad period, making it one of the oldest minarets in the world. Qasr Al Qastal, also located within the town, is considered one of the desert castles and is just 5 km from Qasr Mshatta. Qasr Al Qastal was an Umayyad palace, 68 meters square with 12 semi-circular towers.
Qasr Mshatta (“Winter Palace”) is the ruin of an Umayyad winter palace (743-744). The ruins are located approximately 30 km south of Amman,, north of Queen Alia International Airport. Though much of the ruins can still be found in situ, the most striking feature of the palace, its facade, has been removed and is on display at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. The complex was never completed.
It is square surrounded by an outer wall comprising 25 towers. The frieze is of high importance to scholars due to its original combination of Classical and Sasanian decorative elements, thus being an early example of the East-West synthesis which led to the development of a full-fledged Islamic art.
DEAD SEA & THE WEST
The Dead Sea is part of the Great Rift Valley; it is the lowest spot on earth at 425m below sea level and more than 390m deep. It is not actually a sea, but a lake filled with incoming water with no outlet. It is the second-saltiest body of water on earth (after Lake Aral in Djibouti) with a salt content of 31%. The Dead Sea is 3 million years old, but has shrunk by 30% in recent years (half a metre per year) due to evaporation, the demands of the potash industry, one of Jordan’s most valuable commodities and Israel removing water. Egyptians used Dead Sea mud (bitumen) in their mummification process; the last lump of floating bitumen surfaced in 1936.
Because of the salinity, nothing but the most microscopic of life forms can survive in it. Indeed, the only things you’re likely to see in the Dead Sea are a few over-buoyant tourists. A dip in the sea may be one of those must-do experiences, but be warned: you’ll discover cuts you didn’t know you had, so don’t shave before bathing!
The main reason to go is to float in the sea itself. You cover yourself with mud and float – you can’t actually swim. Access to the water is via the public beach, Amman Beach or one of the resorts. But the public beach is often dirty and has no showers, Amman Beach access costs 20JD and the resorts with cleaner beaches much more (25, 40, or up to 100JD depending on the resort). And everything else is charged for: mud to cover yourself with – 3JD, a mandatory cold shower after – 5JD, a locker to store your stuff.
Nearby is Bethany-Beyond-the-Sea on the Jordan River; claimed by Christians to be the place where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist, where the first five apostles met, and where the prophet Elijah ascended to heaven in a chariot. It wasn’t until the 1994 peace treaty with Israel that the remains of churches, caves and baptism pools were unearthed. Pope John Paul II authenticated the site in March 2000. But this seemed like tourist kitsch to me.
AS-SALT
Arab Eclecticism – Foundation and evolution of an Architectural School in the city of As-Salt. From 1869-1921, an architectural school developed under Abdel-Rahman ‘Aqruq, a ‘stone master’ who started designing and building houses for the new bourgeoisie of Salt. The first creation, the Sukkar House (1879-84), carved in the Salti yellow limestone that is the core of the ornamental elements. Wooden elements do exist but are much scarcer and mainly found in the big houses. The architecture joined traditional and modern elements and also exploited the terrain and grottos and caves, as well as rock-faced rooms part of the architecture.
Zayy National Park. Surrounds Al-Salt, an ancient agricultural and administrative centre in west-central Jordan on the old main highway leading from Amman to Jerusalem. Situated in the Balqa highland, about 790–1,100 metres above sea level, the town is built in the crook of three hills, close to the Jordan Valley. One of the three hills,, is the site of a 13th-century ruined fortress.
MADABA (pop 152,900)
The relaxed market town of Madaba is best known for a collection of superb, Byzantine-era (332-635 AD) mosaics. Look for the chicken – there’s one in most mosaics, and trying to spot it may save ‘mosaic-fatigue’ syndrome. There is evidence of settlement here 4500 years ago. It was a Roman-Greek fortress, then Byzantine. In 750, an earthquake destroyed the city and it was abandoned for 1000 years until Bedoin Christians arrived in the 1880s. One third of Madaba’s population is Christian (the other two-thirds are Muslim), making it one of the largest Christian communities in Jordan. The town’s long tradition of religious tolerance is joyfully – and loudly – expressed on Fridays: the imam summons the faithful before dawn, then the carillon bells get the Orthodox Christians out of bed, and finally Mammon rises with the honks and groans of traffic. Madaba is worth considering as an alternative place to stay to Amman: Madaba is far more compact, has excellent hotels and restaurants, and is less than an hour by regular public transport from the capital. Madaba is also a good base for exploring the Dead Sea, Bethany and other sites such as Mt Nebo, Mukawir and Hammamat Ma’in.
Mosaic Map. Madaba’s most famous site is located in the 19th-century Greek Orthodox St George’s Church. In 1884 Christian builders came across the remnants of an old Byzantine church on the site of their new construction. Among the rubble, having survived wilful destruction, fire and neglect, the mosaic they discovered had extraordinary significance: to this day, it represents the oldest map of Palestine in existence and provides many historical insights into the region.
The mosaic was crafted in AD 560 and has 157 captions (in “Greek) depicting all the major biblical sites of the Middle East from Egypt to Palestine. It was originally around 15m to 25m long and 6m wide, and once contained more than two million pieces. Although much of the mosaic has been lost, enough remains (25%) to sense the majesty of the whole.
Mosaic of Jerusalem
Shrine of the Beheading of John the Baptist. John the Baptist was arrested by Herod and put in chains in the prison. The daughter of Herodias (Herod’s niece) danced for Herod and he promised her anything she wanted. Oddly she asked for the head of John the Baptist and he delivered it on a plate!. This operational early 20th-century Roman Catholic Church has restored the ancient sites upon which the church sits on top of the acropolis of the city. The real gem of the complex is the Acropolis Museum, housed in the ancient, vaulted underbelly of the church. Here, an ancient well dating to the Moabite era, 3000 years ago, is still operational. Scale the belfry for the best panorama in Madaba climbing around the ropes, bells and girders. There is a copy of the incredible mosaic from St Stephens at Umm Ar-Rasas, 30kms south of Madaba: it lists 10 Egyptian churches, 8 cities in Israel/Palestine and 7 in Jordan with names and pictures and some great early photographs taken between 1901-1911.
Archaeological Park. This park includes exceptional mosaics from all around the Madaba area. The Hippolytus Hall, a former Byzantine villa with some superb classical mosaics (the upper image shows a topless Aphrodite sitting next to Adonis and spanking a naughty winged Eros). The other half of the structure is the 6th-century Church of the Virgin Mary Church of the Martyrs). There are also remains of a Roman road. The Burnt Palace is also here; it is the remains of luxurious house covered in ash when excavated.
Church of the Apostles. Has a remarkable mosaic dedicated to the 12 apostles. The central portion shows a vivid representation of Tahlassa, the Goddess of the sea, surrounded by fish and a comical little octopus.
Madaba Museum. Housed in several old Madaba residences, this museum contains a number of ethnographic exhibits and some more good mosaics.
I took the bus one hour to Madaba and visited everything above. Then I took a service taxi to Mount Nebo and back for 4JD, a good deal.
AROUND MADABA
MT NEBO. On the edge of the East Bank plateau and 9km from Madaba, is where Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land. He then died (aged 120!) and was buried in the area, although the exact location of the burial site is the subject of conjecture. The first church was built on the site in the 4th century AD, but most of the Moses Memorial Church you’ll see today was built in the 6th century. The impressive main-floor mosaic measures about 9m by 3m, and is magnificently preserved. It depicts hunting and herding scenes interspersed with an assortment of African fauna, including a zebu (humped ox), lions, tigers, bears, boars, zebras, an ostrich on a leash, and a camel-shaped giraffe. The inscription below names the artist. This is a masterpiece but the church has been closed since 2008 for renovations. It is slated to open in July 2016. It’s worth coming to the lookout : the views across the valleys to the Dead Sea, Jericho, the Jordan Valley and the spires of Jerusalem are superb, especially on a cold day in winter when it is crystal clear. The views close were great but haze obscured anything far.
I didn’t go to any of the following. The logistics of transportation just seemed too difficult.
Hammamat Ma’in (Zarqa Ma’in). This is an area of about 60 thermal springs. A resort here has very mineralized water ranging from 45-60° in Roman baths, a family pool and swimming pool.
Machaerus (Mukawir). Just beyond the village of Mukawir is Machaerus, the castle of Herod the Great on a spectacular 700m-high hilltop. The ruins are only of moderate interest, but the setting is breathtaking with views over the surrounding hills and the Dead Sea. Known locally as Gallows Castle, the ruins consist of the palace, cistern, remains of baths and defensive walls. John the Baptist was beheaded here by Herod Antipas, the successor to Herod the Great.
Wadi Mujib. Stretching across Jordan from the Desert Highway to the Dead Sea is the ‘Grand Canyon of Jordan’, about 1km deep and 4km from one edge to the other. Just after Dhiban, the road descends after 3km to a lookout. It is possible to cross the 30 km Mujib from Dhiban to Ariha by taxi or hitching.
The river enters the Dead Sea at 420 metres (1,380 ft) below sea level. During the last Ice Age, the Dead Sea was 180 metres (590 ft) below sea level, about 240 metres (790 ft) higher than it is today. It flooded the lower canyons along its banks, which accumulated sediments. As the climatic conditions changed, about 20,000 years ago, the water level of the lake dropped, leaving the re-emergent canyons blocked with lake marl. Most canyons managed to cut through their plugged outlets and to resume their lower courses. However, Wadi Mujib, abandoned its former outlet by breaking through a cleft in the sandstone. This narrow cleft became the bottleneck of an enormous drainage basin with a huge discharge. During the years the cleft was scoured deeper and the gorge of Wadi Mujib was formed.
The Mujib Reserve of Wadi Mujib is in the mountains to the east of the Dead Sea, in the south Jordan valley, approximately 90kms south o f Amman. A 212 sq. km in area. In 2011, UNESCO declared Mujib biosphere reserve. It extends to the Kerak and Madaba mountains to the north and south, reaching 900 metres (3,000 ft) above sea level in some places. This 1,300-metre (4,300 ft) variation in elevation combined with the valley’s year round water flow from seven tributaries, means that Wadi Mujib enjoys a magnificent biodiversity – mountainous, rocky, and sparsely vegetated desert (up to 800 metres (2,600 ft)), with cliffs and gorges cutting through plateaus. Perennial, spring-fed streams flow to the shores of the Dead Sea.
The hot springs of Hammamat Ma’in lie close to the borders of the reserve are heavily used for tourism and recreation. As well as resident birds, the reserve is strategically important as a safe stop-over for the huge number of migratory birds which fly annually along the Great Rift Valley between Africa and northeast Europe.
In Amman, I went to the Israeli embassy to ask some questions about the Israeli visa. I have visited 12 Arab/Islamic countries this year and hear from other tourists that many get refused entry to Israel – if they have been in Iran, Afghanistan, or Lebanon for example. I did not want to get to the border and be refused. It was a waste of time. You needed an appointment, I was not applying for a visa and they wouldn’t let me in. They gave me a phone number to call. I phoned many times but it was never answered. I wrote an email that replied Canadians are visa and entry is determined by the border immigration.
The hotel I am staying at is great. An Iraqi man is doing the housecleaning/maid service. He is 35, has a wife and two children living here and is a registered refugee from Iraq. He is a trained teacher. He has been in Jordan for a year and will never return to Iraq. Democracy is not functional and he believes will never work there. He is not allowed to have a legal job in Jordan. The UN puts them in a refuge camp, unable to work, and they wait however long it takes to immigrate to another country – 2, 5, 7 10 years. He has no use for the UN.
This job is illegal. He cleans at this hotel and another one owned by the same guy under the table. He still feels like he is very lucky. He makes enough money to get by and support his family. Rent is 170JD, electricity 5JD, internet 20JD. I didn’t ask how much he makes. Iraq under Saddam Hussein was a good country to live in. Iraq needed a strong dictator to control the country with its Sunni and Shiite populations. BBC, CNN and Al Jazeera on TV are not good in Iraq – it was much better when there was one government controlled TV station and propaganda was controlled. Jordan is a poor country with few resources with most of the economy based on tourism. The future doesn’t hold many positives.
I took a taxi back from the Israel Embassy. The driver was from Kuwait and well spoken. He expressed his frustrations with dating Muslim women. They were very sexual any everything but vaginal intercourse was possible – it is essential that you be a virgin in Islam to get a husband. He thought he would start to date Filipino women.
I decided to hang out in Amman for a few days and get caught up on business I have been procrastinating on. Accommodation and food is cheap. I started to rain on January 6 so stayed in the hotel for another day on the 7th. A big mushroom of water is boiling out of a manhole cover down on the street which is a river of water. Downtown Amman is in a valley at the base of all the hills. My plan is to do two-day trips north to see several sites there but waited for the weather to improve. To save transportation costs, take a service taxi from downtown to the north or south bus stations and then a bus to where ever you want to go.