Yearly Archives: 2017

DEVIL’S COUCH (KING TUT’S COUCH)   2730m   8957′ On the east end of the Devil’s Range. It is north-northwest of Gladsheim Peak, and is visible from “Cape Horn” on Highway 6 above the south end of Slocan Lake. 1. … Continue reading →

DEVIL’S SPIRE   2640m   8661′ An impressive summit between Satan Peak and Devil’s Couch. 1. Northeast Face. Start from the bottom of a steep snow gully between Devil’s Spire and Devil’s Couch, and ascend the middle of the northeast face. … Continue reading →

SATAN PEAK   2640m   8661′ MOUNT DIABLO   2670m   8760′ BANSHEE PEAK   2730m   8957′ Both Satan Peak (east) and Banshee Peak (west) are spectacular. These three summits are about 1.6 km east of Chariot Peak, above Coven Lakes. FA … Continue reading →

CHARIOT PEAK   2700m   8858′ Between Devil’s Dome and Banshee Peak. The southwest ridge is one kilometre long, and the northeast end of the mountain is the highest. 1. Northeast to Southwest Attain the wide basin at the foot of … Continue reading →

DEVIL’S DOME   2790m   9154′ The highest peak of the Devil’s Range is the most impressive one visible from the Drinnon Lake approach, and has no easy route. 1. South Face, Southeast Ridge. There is snow at the base of … Continue reading →

FALSE DEVIL’S DOME (DARK PRINCE)   2730m   8957′ A notch separates Devil’s Dome and the false one, which is just west of Devil’s Dome. 1. South Face, South Ridge. Climb part way up the snow gully between Devil’s Dome and … Continue reading →

MOUNT MEPHISTOPHELES   2730m   8957′ ROSEMARY’S BABY   2700m   8858′ Both Rosemary’s Baby and Mephistopheles were traversed after the ascent of Trident Peak, Route 1. When approaching from Cauldron Lake, south of Devil’s Dome, it is possible to climb snow … Continue reading →

TRIDENT PEAK   2730m   8956′ 1. Southwest to Northeast. Ascend the south face of Trident for two rope lengths up a crack and sloping chimney system (Class 5.3), instead of a scree gully. Traverse easily over Trident, Rosemary’s Baby and … Continue reading →

LUCIFER PEAK    2760m   9055′    Lucifer is the next to the last summit from the west end of the Devil’s Range. Approach from Gwillim Lakes. It is the common destination for KMC day trips to Gwillim.  1. Southeast Ridge. … Continue reading →

BLACK PRINCE MOUNTAIN   2742m   8996′ Black Prince is the westernmost summit of the Devil’s Range, on the Valhalla watershed. Climbed from Gwillim Basin.  1. East Ridge (Class 3) FA Brian Berry, Larry Starke and Tim Storvick, 8/1972. The second … Continue reading →