Here are included the peaks along and adjacent to the watershed between Earl Grey Pass and the S extremity of the Toby snowfield, as well as certain of the isolated summits lying S of Toby Creek between its main stem and Dutch Creek. The peaks on the long ridge extending W from the Hamill massif are covered elsewhere. The peaks surrounding Toby and Hamill Glaciers are closely connected and form the principal uplift immediately S of Earl Grey Pass. The Toby snowfield terminates in a glacier whose retreat was measured by A. A. McCoubrey. The glacier receded 1308′ in the period 1915-1929. Climbs in this group are predominantly on snow/ice.
ACCESS. From the end of the Toby Creek road at Toby village, an old horse trail extends some 8 mi farther to the head of Toby Valley and the terminus of Toby Glacier. To reach the Hamill massif, leave the Toby Valley about 2 mi beyond the junction of S Toby Creek and ascend 2000′ to Earl Grey Pass. An intermediate camp is often placed just below the Pass on the W, in a beautiful setting.
Descend to and cross the S terminal fork of Hamill Creek, then work up through the steep bluffs to larch meadows via the first stream bed right (N) of the conspicuous waterfall from Hamill Glacier. Good photo of Hamill Peaks in CAJ 21, facing p 38. One day’s work to either the tongue of Toby Glacier or Earl Grey Pass, an additional day to the meadows below Mt Lady Grey. The trail over Earl Grey Pass has recently been cleared along Hamill Creek all the way to Duncan Lake.
Maps: 82K/lW, 82K/2E, 82K/7E, 82K/SW.
COPPERCROWN MT 3114m 10218′
4 mi SSE of Toby Creek PO.
From camp below the old frontal moraine at the head of Coppercrown Creek, cross the glacier to W and ascend to col (9200) NW of the objective. Descend 100′ to reach snow which is followed to the rocks of the main peak. Few difficulties with quartzite broken into tabular form. Ascent 3½ hr
FA K. Maccallum, A. A. & B. McCoubrey, N. Reilly. N approach, 8/1925
MT STARK 3063m 10050′
l½ mi W of Coppercrown Mt at the head of Stark Creek.
Approach from Toby Creek village along the ridge to W of Stark Creek to camp at timberline near the head of W terminal fork. Ascend over loose sedimentary slabs of NW ridge to steeper final section (500′). Eight leads of F3 on the firmer rock to the top. Descend E ridge, then snow chute to N glacier, traversing W to regain camp. RT 12 hr.
FA J. Jeglum, D. Morgan, 7/1974
HYAK MT 2961m 9716′
One of several peaks in the 9500′-10000′ class located between S Toby Creek and the main stem of Dutch Creek. Little mountaineering interest.
MT KATHERINE 2941m 9650′
Near SE end of Toby Neve overlooking Toby Creek; immediately N of Mt Christine (see Griswold).
MT CHRISTINE 2941m 9650′
At SE end of Toby Neve (see Griswold).
GRISWOLD PEAK 2941m 9650′
The highest peak at S head of Toby Neve (incorrectly located on 82K/2); 1½ mi W of Mt Christine.
1. Circuit E-W. Cross Toby Glacier and snowfield from camp near glacier snout and traverse Mt Katherine from NE to SW (5 hr). Continue S to Mt Christine (1 hr). Descend to Neve and cross to the NE buttress of Griswold Peak. Steep broken rock forces a traverse on narrow ledges of E face to flank a series of ribs. The upper snow leads easily to the top (2½ hrs). Descend W to neve and rejoin the route of approach. RT 11 hr.
FA (of all three) Jul 192, E Cromwell, J. G. Hillhouse, J.Thormgton, C. Kam.
MT TOBY (Gleason) 3222m 10572′
2 mi S of Earl Grey Pass, forming a retaining wall between Toby and Hamill snowfields.
1. South Slopes. By way of Toby Glacier and Neve, swing around the mountain to SE and S. Ascend the rising tributary glacier on the S side to upper snowfields, reaching the summit along a final ridge of granite.
FA C. D. Ellis, Mr. & Mrs. G.D. Emerson, E.W. Harnden. 7/1911
2. N Ridge. Gain the foot of N ridge from Toby Glacier, then traverse a snow band on W face to a buttress which is climbed almost to the ridge itself. Again traverse on W to a smooth rib which is outflanked by descending 150′ to narrow ledges. Climb firm granite to crest and take it to the summit. Ascent 7 hr; descent by Route l, 4 hr. Good route.
Thorington party (see Griswold Peak), 7/1928
UNNAMED #3 3063m 10050′
Head of Hamill Glacier, between Mts Toby and Hamill.
From camp as for Mt Hamill (which see), cross above the icefall of Hamill Glacier, passing a tiny lake,. and ascend the main glacier to the upper basin below the objective. Climb directly the firm quartzite, over coming to a chimney and rock couloir en route, to the peculiar summit, two pinnacles 12′ high, a yard wide, and spaced a yard apart. Ascent 4½ hr.
FA A. A. & B. McCoubrey, E. Feuz, Jr, 8/1924
MT HAMILL 3243 10640′
The highest peak of group W of Earl Grey Pass across the S terminal fork of Hamill Creek; between the latter and Carney Creek.
From camp (6800) above headwaters of Hamill Creek basin, on meadows below Mt Lady Grey just N of Hamill icefall. Approach up Hamill Glacier to the SE corner of the peak which is turned to a high col on the S ridge, rock and corniced snow leading there after to the top. Ascent 5 hr (CAJ 21-38). For a traverse, see Mt Lady Grey.
FA A. A. McCoubrey, E. Feuz, Jr, 8/1924
MT LADY GREY 3155m 10350′
3 mi W of Earl Grey Pass; 1½ mi N of Mt Hamill
1. E Ridge. From camp located as for Mt Hamill (which see), ascend alplands above the true left lateral moraine of Hamill Glacier, eventually swinging left onto the ice itself. After crossing the bergschrund, climb along the E ridge, ascending a long couloir of disintegrating mica schist on its far side. Regaining the ridge, climb on excellent quartzite to the top, the actual summit being a short distance farther along the crest. Ascent 6½ hr.
FA A. A. & B. McCoubrey, E. Feuz, Jr, 8/1924
2. S Ridge. After climbing Mt Hamill (which see), descend its N ridge. passing towers on E slope, to Hamill-Lady Grey col (9400, 3 hr from Mt Hamill). Climb ridge directly to the summit (I½ hr). Descent by Route 1. Complete circuit, 15 hr.
G. Brown, N. Dougan, 1967
UNNAMED #4 2941m 9650′
¾ mi N of Mt Lady Grey.
From the main stem of Hamill Creek, bushwhack N upstream into basin NW of objective. Continue up the valley to the small glacier, crossing it to the W side after which sloping quartzite slabs are climbed to the long curving NW ridge. The ridge becomes narrow, with numerous gendarmes and notches, affording sporting climb ing. 9 hr from the bivouac at 5500′.
FA A. A. McCoubrey, F. & R. Neave, 8/1929
ROCK SPIKE 2911m 9550′
Sharp N outlier of Hamill massif.