MOUNT CHIPMAN 2562m 8406′
This castellated summit has good rock, and since the park boundaries were changed (the park used to form a square) it lies in the northeast part of Kokanee Park. The altitude given is a surveyed value. On the 1:50,000 scale map, it is 2510 meters.
The alpine terrain drained by Ben Hur and Deer Creeks on the north and Bjerkness Creek on the east is quite broken up with many large, difficult-to-negotiate boulder fields. It’s not like walking on a golf course.
The north ridge (pinnacles) may offer good climbing.
Difficulty: C/D3
Elevation gain: 3300
Key elevations: Park 5100′, Summit 8400′
Time: 8 hours
Season: early July through September
Access: Difficult low clearance 4WD.
Map: 82F/14 Slocan.
Drive: Keen Creek Rd (signed Kaslo Creek South Fork). Closed at km 15.
From New Denver: Drive east on Hwy 31A 40.1 km (24.9 miles).
From Kaslo (Junction of Highways 31 and 31A): Drive northwest 6.5 km (4 miles).
Zero odometer.
0.0 From Highway 31A, start southwest on a gravel Keen Creek Rd (this is what the locals call Kaslo Creek S Fork)
4.6km. Nashton Road (left), just before km 5 sign.
6.5km. Stay straight. Old road goes right and down (to Mt. Carlyle, Flint Lakes).
7.4km. (4.6 miles) Turn left onto Ben Hur FSR just beyond big mine dump pile, km 8 sign. High clearance, four-wheel drive. Zero odometer
0.0 Ben Hur FSR. 200m. Keep left at the first junction and right at
1.6 km. Right onto signed ”Ben Hur” road (4WD, high clearance, low range). In 2020, the road was brushed out by Kaslo locals, very narrow and easy to hit a mirror or scrape a boulder. Pinstripes high likely. Impossible if you meet another vehicle.
5 km. Park at 958-260. Room for 3-4 vehicles. Trailhead obvious.
West Face, South Ridge Route: On the well-ribboned and cairned trail, immediately cross to the east bank of Ben Hur Creek through light timber, rhododendron, and boulder fields to the lower lake (962-244 6350’).
Go almost all the way around the west side of the first lake, and ascend southwest, west of the creek and parallel to the ridge SE of Satisfaction Pk. There is considerable bushwhacking, but this may avoid the worst of it. Descend SE to the basin at 962-238. Traverse unpleasant mossy boulder fields and continue over a buttress W of the upper lake (959-232) to reach the alpine W. of Chipman (about 3 hrs. from the car).
From the basin, ascend 1100′ on moderately steep snow on Chipman’s west face to reach the south ridge. Follow good granite on the class 3 south ridge to the summit without difficulty (1 hr. from basin). A cairn was found on the summit.
Return 2 hrs. 50 min. Total day 7 hr. 30 min. (round trip) (III,3,s).
FRA Kim Kratky, Fred Thiessen, 20/6/1997.
CHIPMAN 2562 m. (surveyed elevation) by Kim Kratky
Car approach: drive Highway 31A to Keen Creek turnoff, 7.6 km. west of Kaslo. Follow Keen Creek road for 8 km. to a big mine dump. Just past the dump turn left onto Ben Hur mainline road. At 200 m., go straight. At. km. 1.6 turn right (signposted “Ben Hur m/l”). Follow the road through several cut blocks to its end at around km. 5 (5100′). The Ben Hur section needs a 4WD vehicle for its upper sections (steep).
Approach on foot: Leaving the vehicle at the end of Ben Hur road, follow the creek S. along its W. bank through a cut block which quickly gives way to open timber and fairly unpleasant bushwhacking (slide alder, devil’s club, rhododendron). Traverse unpleasant mossy boulder fields and continue over a buttress W of a lake to reach the alps W. of Chipman (about 3 hrs. from the car).
The climb: From the basin, ascend moderately steep snow on Chipman’s west face to reach the south ridge (1100′). Then follow good granite on the class 3 south ridge to the summit without difficulty (1 hr. from basin). A cairn was found on the summit. (note, Earle: this peak may have been climbed by John Carter or Steve Kent of BC Parks).
Return via ascent route. Later in the season, the snow of the west face would give way to rock; thus, a different route might be more practical. However, we’re not talking about anything difficult, here. We returned to the truck by traversing NW from the basin at 962-238 and then descending a snow tongue parallel to the ridge NE of Satisfaction Pk. This was somewhat better than the approach, but there was still considerable bushwhacking farther down. Return was made from the summit in 2 hrs. 50 min. The total day was 7 hours. 30 min.
Pinnacles along the ridge N. of the summit and subsidiary peaklets to the N. would seem to offer good rock climbing. Access may be better from cut blocks located between Deer and Ben Hur Creeks along the long forested ridge extending N. from the summit.
SUMMARY: Mt. Chipman 2562 m
1. West face/south ridge (II,3,s) First ascent unknown. From end of logging road on Ben Hur Creek, follow the valley south to the alpine west of the peak. Ascend snow of west face to the south ridge and follow easy rock north to the summit. 4hrs. up. 7 1/2 hrs. for total trip.
