LUCIFER PEAK 2760m 9055′
Lucifer is the next to the last summit from the west end of the Devil’s Range. Approach from Gwillim Lakes. It is the common destination for KMC day trips to Gwillim.
1. Southeast Ridge. The southeast ridge is non-technical. (I,3).
FRA Bob Dean, Howie Ridge, 24/8/1970.
2. Northwest Ridge. Follow the crest of the northwest ridge until it steepens and then go out onto a series of rotten ledges on the north face which lead to the summit. There is low Class 5 climbing on the ridge and scrambling on the ledges. Descend by Route 1. (II,5.3).
FRA Kim Kratky, Howie Ridge, 8/1980.
A death occurred at the ledges on July 23, 1983 when a ledge collapsed. There is a plaque commemorating Ian Hamilton on the way to the SE Ridge.
3. Southwest Face of Northwest Ridge. Walk up scree and enter an obvious large crack. Climb inside the mountain for 60 meters, and then go out onto the face above. Follow a crack system to the northwest. Stoppers and cams were used for protection. (II,5.4).
FRA Mike Brewster, Leo Jansma, 4/8/1983.
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