Norway – Lofoten and Vesterålen July 24, 2019
I left Bardu at 8:00am. bought gas for €13.83 and turned west towards Lofoten onto E10 at 9:40am. It took me till 16:30 (almost 7 hours) to drive the kms to Moskenes and the ferry.
The mountains are rugged, serrated peaks. There are several more tunnels including another under water plus bridges connecting the various islands. The scenery never really stops for the entire journey to Moskenes. It may even be at its best at the end. The mountains may be a little lower and show more glacial effects but are just as rugged. The road slowly narrows as you get to the end. Narrow two-lanes roads don’t accommodate buses and big trucks well and you have to almost drive on the dirt shoulders to avoid them. Motorhomes and caravans continued to plug the highway. No matter what the speed is, they never reach the speed limit. I also find them very ignorant and don’t pull over and let the long lineups behind them get by. My rude technique when I finally pass all the cars and get right behind them is constantly flash my brights and lay on the horn until they pull over. I wish more drivers were a little more impatient and pass more aggressively. The speed limit is 60 for much of the last 20kms – it is bad enough to have to drive at this speed for miles.
The principal islands, running from north to south are listed below with the five towns listed are in the Nomad Mania “small towns” series.
HINNØYA (southern tip). A large bridge crosses the fjord from the mainland to Hinnøya, a large island with many fjords. I stopped and had an early lunch on the tiny island of Husjordøya in the middle of a fjord on Hinnøya. It had been inhabited since Iron Age times by Sami and Norse. There is evidence of their habitation all over the island. Pass through 4 tunnels of 1, 1.5 and 1.9kms then under a fjord in a 3.9km tunnel to Austvajoy Island.
AUSTVÄGØY (southern 60% – 526.7km2)
The mountains are great peaks with rugged walls and steep cliff faces. Cross a bridge over a fjord and then a 6.2km tunnel crosses a fjord. The mountains are similar to the Canadian Rockies in many ways but there are no glaciers (that are obvious) and all the trees are deciduous where conifers predominate in Canada. Norway has fjords that are tidal and many cute villages.
Svolvær. This is the biggest city on the archipelago and de facto capital of Lofoten with a population of 5000. As a regional centre, the town has a shopping mall, clothing stores, supermarkets, a cinema, and a range of hotels, high-class restaurants, and art galleries open for business throughout the year.
The nearby village of Vågar, just a few miles west of Svolvær, was the first known settlement in northern Norway, dating from approximately 800 AD. The whole region thrived thanks to the plentiful supply of cod in the deep waters around Lofoten, and fishing villages spread along the coastline.
Tourism is important but the local economy is diverse. Cod fisheries, particularly during winter months when tourism is low, remain an essential economical foundation for the town. You can’t go far in Lofoten without seeing cod hung up on racks to dry, and this is true even in the biggest town. The World Cod Fishing Championships are held in Svolvær every March. Over 600 participants from 8 countries regularly take part and thousands of onlookers gather on the Quay to greet the returning boats.
Svolvær is the main starting point for tours to the Trollfjord, one of Norway’s lesser known yet most dramatic fjords. While the western fjords are known for their size, the Trollfjord is just 2km long and extremely narrow especially as its entrance. Large cruise ships almost touch the sides as they enter the fjord, and sometimes struggle to turn back around at the other end. On smaller craft, you can drink from the waterfalls if you sail close enough to the sheer mountain sides. The fjord received national notoriety in 1890 as it was the site of a standoff between the industrial steam ships and traditional open-boat fishermen about access and fishing rights to the fjord. Today the area is known just as much for its local population of sea eagles as for the plentiful stocks of fish. Captains often use fish to lure the breathtaking birds close to the ship for a close-up view.
Climbers will want to tackle the 150m (490ft) tall granite Svolværgeita, one of Norway’s most popular climbing routes, which stands proudly above the city. First climbed in 1910, the summit offers the unique opportunity to jump the 1.5-metre gap between the two “horns” at the summit. Many climbers have noted that when taking the jump, you can see the graveyard of Svolvær Church far below. The route is not technically difficult but it is very steep and a good level of physical fitness is required along with ropes and standard climbing equipment, so it’s best to go with a local guide.
With a backdrop of rugged cliffs, this relatively large town is built on a few peninsulas and islands connected by bridges and forming several harbours. Small rocky islets protect the outer shore. It is very touristy offering several kinds of tours: Trollfjord and sea eagles 895, fishing 895, 2 hours of kayaking 695, tour of the town 395. Apartments and small hotels line the marina. I looked at the menu of one restaurant with high prices: whale 395, fries 79.5, hamburger 195. Industrial buildings are on the inner side of the town.
Kabelvåg. 5.8kms west of Svolvaer, this small village has a tiny harbour, wood houses and is not commercialized.
Henningsvær. This picturesque fishing village is comprised of a number of islets spread among the waters of Vjestfjord. Henningsvær has the most well-preserved architecture of the traditional Norwegian villages, quirky cafes and restaurants, the Hus Gallery, and a burgeoning adventure scene. Henningsvær’s dramatic setting is on par with Reine, with colorful buildings lining the harbor and the steep mountains of Austvågøya as a backdrop. The bridge connecting Henningsvær to the main island of Austvågøya was not constructed until 1981, sparing the village from the ugly concrete era of the 1960’s and 1970’s. The wooden buildings are historic relics, and it’s a joy to stroll the harbor (morning and evening are best) to take in the beautiful surroundings.
The short and steady walk up Glomtinden (419 meters) ends with terrific views of the Lofoten Islands including Vågakallen (943 meters) to the south and Svolvaer to the east. The hike takes approximately one hour each way with an elevation gain of 300 meters. From Henningsvær, take the main road north and turn right at the E10. The trail begins at the first left hand turnoff after the road hits the lake (Rørvikvatnet).
Nord Norsk Klatreskole (North Norwegian School of Mountaineering). One of the great institutions on the Lofoten Islands is the North Norwegian School of Mountaineering, a hybrid climbing and skiing school, hostel, and travelers bar. Lofoten is off-the-beaten-path adventure destination but considered to be world-class for those in the know. The school brings together everyone from novices to seasoned veterans looking to get outdoors.
19kms from Kahelväg, to get here turn south off the highway and drive a wide 1-lane road that hugs the ocean for 8kms crossing tow one-lane bridges to reach this sleepy seaside town. Right at the main highway are two very popular, small white sand beaches. The next 6kms has a slew of cars parked on both sides of the road from the rock climbers covering the glacier scoured cliffs.
GIMSØYA (46.4km2). A long tunnel connects this small island to Austvägöy.
VESTVÄGØY (411.1km2)
Lofotr Viking Museum, Bostad. This museum is a large very popular operation. The highlight is large recreated longhouse of Borg of Loften, one of most powerful Viking chieftains. It was the largest known building from Viking times. The full size replica is 82m long. Inside are the history of Lofotr Vikings, oil lamps, a fire, the smell of tar smoke, archaeology and several craft exhibits. It holds the nightly Viking feast complete with mead (NOK 995, including admission to the museum).
One kilometer walk from the longhouse is a the Viking harbour, a small lake with the possibility of rowing a Viking boat, archery, axe throwing, Viking games and a blacksmith. NOK 200, 170 reduction
FLAKASTADØYA (109.8km2)
Nusfjord. This tiny village is often regarded as one of the oldest and best preserved fishing villages in Norway. A handful of cabins (rorbu) and old buildings make up the fishing village that today is home to a a group of locals, as well as accommodation and the facilities around the newly opened Nusfjord Arctic Resort.
There have been found traces of people living in Nusfjord from 425 BC, and with a heyday area in the beginning of the last century, Nusfjord remains a treasure chest full of history from when the cod hang and was laying around the rocks in the area. During these years Nusfjord was home to more than 1500 fishermen, and on the walls in the restaurants and other facilities you can glance up on images of the fjord full of boats, fish and people. Many of the old buildings related to the fishing industry have been renovated and taken care of, and today the fish oil factory, old smokery, blacksmith, boathouses and many other buildings make up the guided historical roundtrip that takes you around a glimpse of the old Lofoten life.
The 5.2km drive here was spectacular along a polished granite fjord. It appears that glaciation caused the appearance of the walls.
It is possible to walk along the ocean here from the SW tip of the island.
MOSKENESØYA (185.9km2)
Further to the south are the small and isolated islands of Værøy and Røst.
Reine. This village lies on a peninsula with a narrow connection. It has only houses.
Moskenes. Another tiny village, this is where the ferry dock for Bodø is.
Mileage driven in Lofoten: 358kms from the turnoff from the mainland. Time 7 hours with several stops.
From Bardu, the turnoff to Lofoten is just south of Bardu.
Ferry to Bodø. There is a ferry from Moskenes to Bodø on the mainland (4 hours leaving several times per day and spaces were available). From Bardu to Bodø was 355kms (5 hours and 45 minutes) so it was a no-brainer to take the ferry even though it cost 961 NOK (about €100). Not taking would mean driving all the way back to Bardu and then to Bodø, over 11 hours of driving. Plus this allowed me to drive the entire length of the Lofoten islands. The gas savings alone were almost the value of the ferry. I tried to book the 18:00 ferry online but reservations can’t be made less than 24 hours before sailing. I phoned to make a reservation but they thought this unnecessary as the ferry from Lofoten to Bodø only reserves 40% of the spots. Simply get in line at the ferry and hope there is space, or wait till the next ferry. They collected the fare while in the line up. The vast majority of the vehicles had no reservation and everyone waiting got on.
The ferry took 3½ hours. I met a lovely English/Danish couple living in Malmo Sweden who also have a California. The only other people I talked to on the ferry were two nice couples form Italy – both were driving Californias.
On the way into Bodø, the late evening sun created perfect light for a photo of a lenticular cloud being swept around a mountain top.
NOMAD MANIA Norway – Lofoten and Vesterålen
Tentative WHS: The Lofoten islands (07/10/2002)
Islands
Andøya
Austvågøy
Hinnøya
Moskenesøya
Borders: Norway mainland (sea border/port)
XL
Rost island
Røstøyan
Villages and Small Towns
Henningsvær
Kabelvåg
Nusfjord
Reine
Svolvær
Airports: Leknes (LKN)
Museums: Bostad: Lofotr Viking Museum
Festivals: Melbu: Sommer-Melbu
Lighthouses: Andenes: Andenes Lighthouse
Beaches: Vaeroy
LOFOTEN – GENERAL INFORMATION
Lofoten is an archipelago and a traditional district in the county of Nordland. Lofoten is known for a distinctive scenery with dramatic mountains and peaks, open sea and sheltered bays, beaches and untouched lands. Though lying within the Arctic Circle, the archipelago experiences one of the world’s largest elevated temperature anomalies relative to its high latitude.
Etymology. Lofoten was the original name of the island Vestvågøya. The first element is ló (i.e., “lynx”) and the last element is derived from Norse fótr (i.e., “foot”), as the shape of the island must have been compared with that of a lynx’s foot. The old name of the neighbouring island Flakstadøya was Vargfót, “wolf’s foot”, from vargr “wolf”. S
HISTORY
There is evidence of human settlement extending back at least 11,000 years in Lofoten, and the earliest archaeological sites … are only about 5,500 years old, at the transition from the early to late Stone Age.” Iron Age agriculture, livestock, and significant human habitation can be traced back to c. 250 BC.
The town of Vågan is the first known town formation in northern Norway. It existed in the early Viking Age, maybe earlier, and was located on the southern coast on eastern Lofoten, near today’s village Kabelvåg in Vågan municipality. However, the Lofotr Viking Museum with the reconstructed 83-meter-long longhouse (the largest known) is located near Borg on Vestvågøy, which has many archeological finds from the Iron Age and Viking Age.
The islands have for more than 1,000 years been the centre of great cod fisheries, especially in winter, when the cod migrates south from the Barents Sea and gathers in Lofoten to spawn. Bergen in southwestern Norway was for a long time the hub for further export south to different parts of Europe, particularly so when trade was controlled by the Hanseatic League. In the lowland areas, particularly Vestvågøy, agriculture plays a significant role, as it has done since the Bronze Age.
Lofotr was originally the name of the island of Vestvågøy only. Later it became the name of the chain of islands. The chain of islands with its pointed peaks looks like a lynx foot from the mainland. In Norwegian, it is always a singular. Another name one might come across, is “Lofotveggen” or the Lofoten wall. The archipelago looks like a closed wall when seen from elevated points around Bodø or when arriving from the sea, some 100kms long, and 800–1,000 metres (2,600–3,300 feet) high.
In March, 1941 the islands were raided by British Commandos during Operation Claymore, and in a subsequent diversionary attack to support the Vaagso raid in December.
As of 2017, the islands attract one million tourists a year.
GEOGRAPHY
Lofoten is located at the 68th and 69th parallels north of the Arctic Circle. It is known for its natural environment within Norway. Lofoten encompasses the municipalities of Vågan, Vestvågøy, Flakstad, Moskenes, Værøy, and Røst. The principal islands, running from north to south are:
Southern tip of Hinnøya.
Southern 60% of Austvågøy (526.7km2)
Gimsøya (46.4km2)
Vestvågøy (411.1km2)
Flakstadøya (109.8km2)
Moskenesøya (185.9km2)
Further to the south are the small and isolated islands of Værøy and Røst. The total land area amounts to 1,227km2 and the population totals 24,500. Many will argue that Hinnøya, the northern part of Austvågøy and several hundred smaller islands, skerries and rocks to the east of Austvågøy are also part of the Lofoten complex. Historically, the territorial definition of Lofoten has changed significantly. Between the mainland and the Lofoten archipelago lies the vast, open Vestfjorden, and to the north is Vesterålen. The principal towns in Lofoten are Leknes in Vestvågøy and Svolvær in Vågan. The main islands are joined to each other and the mainland by road bridges.
The Lofoten Islands are characterised by their mountains and peaks, sheltered inlets, stretches of seashore and large virgin areas. The highest mountain in Lofoten is Higravstinden (1,161m in Austvågøy; the Møysalen National Park just northeast of Lofoten has mountains reaching 1,262m. The famous Moskstraumen (Malstrøm) system of tidal eddies is located in western Lofoten, and is indeed the root of the term maelstrom.
GEOLOGY
Lofoten is a horst ridge of bedrock. The rocks of Lofoten belong to wider the Western Gneiss Region of Norway. Some of the high relief and irregular surfaces of Lofoten has been attributed to etching that took place during the Mesozoic Era. Evidence of this would be the kaolinite found at some locations. To the northwest the Lofoten archipelago is bounded by the NE–SW-trending West Lofoten Border Fault. This is a normal fault whose fault scarp has been eroded forming a strandflat.
In Vestvågøya mountains have steep slopes towards the open sea in the northwest and southeast while slopes pointing towards the interior of the island are more gentle. This is the result of erosion acting on a landscape that has been uplifted along NE–SW-trending faults in the margins of Lofoten while the interior axis has remained more stable. In tectonic terms mountains are half-grabens and faults are of the dip-slip type.
The sea around Lofoten is known to host significant oil reserves. The reserves amount to 1.3 bn barrels. Oil extraction in the Lofoten area is however prohibited.
WILDLIFE
The sea is rich with life, and the world’s largest deep-water coral reef, called the Røst Reef, is located west of Røst. Approximately 70% of all fish caught in the Norwegian and Barents seas use its islands’ waters as a breeding ground. Lofoten has a high density of sea eagles and cormorants, and millions of other sea birds, among them the colourful puffin. It has mainland Europe’s largest seabird colony. Otters are common, and there are moose on the largest islands. There are some woodlands with downy birch and rowan. There are no native conifer forests in Lofoten, but some small areas with private spruce plantations. Rowan whitebeam) and Malus sylvestris occur in Lofoten, but not further north.
The animals mistaken for the extinct great auk turned out to be some of the nine king penguins released around Norway’s Lofoten Islands in August 1936, there until at least 1944.
CLIMATE
Lofoten features a subpolar oceanic climate. Winter temperatures in Lofoten are very mild considering its location north of the Arctic Circle – Lofoten has the largest positive temperature anomaly in the world relative to latitude. This is a result of the Gulf Stream and its extensions: the North Atlantic Current and the Norwegian Current. Røst and Værøy are the most northerly locations in the world where average temperatures are above freezing all year.
May and June are the driest months, while October has three times as much precipitation. The warmest recording in Svolvær is 30.4 °C.
Strong winds can occur in late autumn and winter. Snow and sleet are not uncommon in winter, the mountains can have substantial amounts of snow, and in some winters, avalanches might come down from steep mountain slopes. Two of the top ten deadliest rainstorms ever recorded passed through Lofoten.
In Svolvær, the sun is above the horizon continuously (“midnight sun”) from 25 May to 17 July, and in winter the sun does not rise from 4 December to 7 January. In Leknes, the sun is above the horizon from 26 May to 17 July, and in winter the sun does not rise from 9 December to 4 January.
The temperature in the sea has been recorded since 1935. At 1 metre (3 feet 3 inches) depth in the sea near Skrova, water temperatures varies from a low of 3 °C in March to 14 °C in August, some years peaking above 17 °C. November is around 7–8 °C. At a depth of 200m, the temperature is near 8 °C all year.
SPORT
Mountaineering and rock climbing. Lofoten offers many rock climbing and mountaineering opportunities. It has 24 hours of daylight in the summer and has Alpine-style ridges, summits and glaciers, but at a height of less than 1,200 metres (3,900 feet). The main centre for rock climbing is Henningsvær on Austvågøya.
The main areas for mountaineering and climbing are on Austvågøy and Moskenesøya. Moskenesøya features remote and serious mountaineering whereas Austvågøy is very popular area for rock climbing. For more information, see the walking guide by Dyer and the rock climbing guidebook by Craggs and Enevold.
Football. Lofoten has one of the worlds most interesting football pitches on an island as used in Windows start up screens
Surfing. Unstad is one of its better known locations for surfing.
Cycling. There is a well marked cycling route that goes from Å in the south and continues past Fiskebøl in the north. The route is part public road, part cycle-path with the option to bypass all of the tunnels by either cycle-path (tunnels through mountains) or boat. Traffic is generally light, although in July there may be a lot of campervans. Some of the more remote sections are on gravel roads. There is a dedicated cycling ferry which sails between Ballstad and Nusfjord, allowing cyclists to avoid the long, steep Nappstraum tunnel. The route hugs the coastline for most of its length where it is generally flat. As it turns inland through the mountain passes there are a couple of 300–400-metre climbs.
The Lofoten Insomnia Cycling Race takes place every year around midsummer, possible in the midnight sun, but surely in 24-hr daylight, along the whole Lofoten archipelago.
The Arctic Race of Norway, the world’s northernmost professional stage race on road bike that takes place every year in Northern Norway, crossed the Lofoten islands during its first edition in August 2013. The race will be back in 2019 from Thursday 15 August to Sunday 18 August. The first two stages will cross the Lofoten archipelago from west to east.
TRANSPORT
The European road E10 connects the larger islands of Lofoten with bridges and undersea tunnels. The E10 road also connects Lofoten to the mainland of Norway through the Lofast road connection, which was officially opened on December 1, 2007. There are several daily bus services between the islands of Lofoten and between Lofoten and the mainland along E10.
Airports. Lofoten is also served by a number of small airports:
Leknes Airport (101,757 passengers in 2014)
Svolvær Airport, Helle (74,496 passengers in 2014)
Røst Airport (9,889 passengers in 2014), which mainly offers flights to Bodø.
A heliport at Værøy (9,420 passengers in 2014)
Stokmarknes Airport, Skagen (93,782 passengers in 2016) is located in Vesterålen.
Harstad/Narvik Airport, Evenes has direct flights to Oslo and Trondheim.
Bodø is often used as a hub for travel to Lofoten. In addition to air travel there is a ferry connecting Bodø to Moskenes. There is also a ferry connecting Svolvær to Skutvik in Hamarøy, with road connection east to E6. Hurtigruten calls at Stamsund and Svolvær.
IN POPULAR CULTURE
Literature
Edgar Allan Poe’s short story “A Descent into the Maelström” tells the story of a man who survived his ship being drawn into and swallowed by Moskstraumen.
Jules Verne’s novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea (1870) concludes with the Nautilus fallen into the Maelström, and Prof. Aronnax, Conseil and Ned Land, who had been attempting to escape when the Nautilus began its fall, washed up on an island in the Lofotens.
Johan Bojer’s novel The Last of the Vikings (1922) tells the story of the Lofoten cod fishermen.
In Angela Green’s novel The Colour of Water, much of the action takes place in Å i Lofoten and climaxes at the Maelstrom.
In Ole Edvart Rølvaag’s novel Giants in the Earth, the Norwegian protagonists settling in Dakota Territory are immigrants from Lofoten.
Films. In the film Maelström, Lofoten is where the ashes of Annstein Karson are distributed.
Paintings. The islands of the Lofoten archipelago are known for their natural environment. The area has rugged landscape and unique lighting. Consequently, the islands have long served as an inspiration for artists. Norwegian painter, Gunnar Berg was known for his paintings of his native Lofoten. He principally painted scenes of the everyday life of the local fishermen. Other artists whose work has been associated with Lofoten include Adelsteen Normann, Otto Sinding, Christian Krohg, Theodor Kittelsen, and Lev Lagorio.
Music. In 2004, Nurse with Wound broadcast 24 unexpected radio transmissions from the Lofoten Islands, whose sounds were sourced from the environment and objects found in Lofoten. These recordings are included on their three releases entitled Shipwreck Radio.
Video games. In the 2015 video game, The Witcher 3: Wild Hunt, a village is named Lofoten within the Norse/Celtic inspired archipelago, Skellige.