ATHENS
Athens (pop 3.8 million)
Athens (Ancient Greek: Athênai) is the capital and largest city of Greece. Athens dominates the Attica region and is one of the world’s oldest cities, with its recorded history spanning over 3,400 years and its earliest human presence starting somewhere between the 11th and 7th millennium BC.
Classical Athens was a powerful city-state that emerged in conjunction with the seagoing development of the port of Piraeus, which had been a distinct city prior to its 5th-century BC incorporation with Athens. A center for the arts, learning and philosophy, home of Plato’s Academy and Aristotle’s Lyceum, it is widely referred to as the cradle of Western civilization and the birthplace of democracy, largely because of its cultural and political impact on the European continent, and in particular the Romans. In modern times, Athens is a large cosmopolitan metropolis and central to economic, financial, industrial, maritime, political and cultural life in Greece. In 2012, Athens was ranked the world’s 39th richest city by purchasing power and the 67th most expensive in a UBS study.
Athens is a global city and one of the biggest economic centres in southeastern Europe. It has a large financial sector, and its port Piraeus is both the largest passenger port in Europe and the second-largest in the world. while at the same time being the sixth busiest passenger port in Europe. The Municipality of Athens (also the City of Athens) had a population of 664,046 (in 2011) within its administrative limits and a land area of 38.96 km2. The urban area of Athens (Greater Athens and Greater Piraeus) extends beyond its administrative municipal city limits, with a population of 3,090,508 (in 2011) over an area of 412 km2 (159 sq mi). According to Eurostat in 2011, the functional urban area (FUA) of Athens was the 9th most populous FUA in the European Union (the 6th most populous capital city of the EU), with a population of 3.8 million people. Athens is also the southernmost capital on the European mainland.
The heritage of the classical era is still evident in the city, represented by ancient monuments and works of art, the most famous of all being the Parthenon, considered a key landmark of early Western civilization. The city also retains Roman and Byzantine monuments, as well as a smaller number of Ottoman monuments. Athens is home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the Acropolis of Athens and the medieval Daphni Monastery. Landmarks of the modern era, dating back to the establishment of Athens as the capital of the independent Greek state in 1834, include the Hellenic Parliament and the so-called “architectural trilogy of Athens”, consisting of the National Library of Greece, the National and Kapodistrian University of Athens and the Academy of Athens. Athens is also home to several museums and cultural institutions, such as the National Archeological Museum, featuring the world’s largest collection of ancient Greek antiquities, the Acropolis Museum, the Museum of Cycladic Art, the Benaki Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum.
Athens was the host city of the first modern-day Olympic Games in 1896, and 108 years later it welcomed home the 2004 Summer Olympics, making it one of only a handful of cities to have hosted the Olympics more than once.
Athens General Information
Monasteries of Daphni, Hosios Loukas and Nea Moni of Chios. These three monasteries were declared a collective World Heritage Site in 1999. Daphni is located about 12 km west of the Acropolis. They are monastic complexes of the middle Byzantine period. All have similar architecture: a cross-in-square church with octagonal pillars supporting the dome, decorated marble, sculptures and mosaics produced by artists from Constantinople. The mosaics are the highlight and are similar in design: Christ Almighty surrounded by prophets dominates the dome; Virgin Mary and Baby Christ flanked by archangels in the niche of the apse, and the remainder narrative scenes of the life of Christ and Mary including the Passion of Christ and the saints presented as slim full-body figures with the right proportions and movements, or medallions.
Daphni was occupied by Cistercian monks in 1207. The faded frescoes lining the lower walls date from the 17th century. After the Greek War of Independence in 1821, the religious function of the monastery was abandoned and it became a garrison and then a sanitarium from 1879-97. Hours 8-3 pm. Free
Diomedous Botanical Gardens. Just 500m down the road from the Daphni Monastery, this is a wonderful botanical park full of big trees, a garden of succulents and cacti, ponds and flower beds. All the trees were in leaf and the small flowering trees in full bloom, but the flowers (roses, iris) were not out yet. The south and east part of the huge park are wild. It was full of families and is a great place to wander. Free
I found a great free parking spot near Technopolis. I then saw all the following places travelling clockwise around the Acropolis.
Technopolis, Gazi. The Athens Gasworks were established here in 1857 and in operation until 1984. Most of the mechanical equipment (retorts, exhausters, condensers, gas holders, chimneys and gas meters) is intact. The 6.5-hectare park holds exhibition galleries, a restaurant and a museum. The Athens Science Festival was on when I was there but I was allowed to wander without paying admission. At night the chimneys and large gas holding tanks are beautifully lit up. Free
I then walked above the Metro tracks (many archaeological ruins beside the tracks), through the atmospheric old part of Athens ending at Hadrian’s Library. The entire area is pedestrianized and lined with flea markets, restaurants, musicians and is crowded with people.
The hub is the Monastiraki Metro Station on the side of a very crowded square. It is an old station with big arched windows, a glass ceiling and many open green doors. Trains leave here to go to the airport and Piraeus.
Prices including all public transport are very reasonable: €1.40 for 90 minutes, €4.50 for 24 hours and €9 for 5 days.
Monastiraki. This is a neighbourhood and shopping street (mostly jewelry, clothing and shoes) just east of the metro station.
Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments. This wonderful small museum has excellent descriptions and samples of tamboura (lutes, guitars with long necks), bells, wooden rachets, shells, brass clappers, flutes, bagpipes and zournas. Free
Athens Metropolis Church (Athens Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary). Dating from 1842, this is a relatively small square orthodox church but more than makes up for it inside. Painted frescoes cover most of the interior, a large prayer screen, carved wood doors and altar and the highlight, several large silver icons.
Jewish Museum of Greece. Behind a black metal gate between two buildings, its hours are 9-14:30, closed on Saturdays. €6
Plaka. In the shadow of the Acropolis, this hillside neighbourhood has a village feel with flagstone pavers, tiny stores selling jewelry, clothes and local ceramics, cafes, and tavernas that stay open late. The whitewashed homes give it a Greek island vibe.
Acropolis Museum. Built over the archaeological site of the ancient town to the south of the Acropolis, this is a good museum on the history of the Acropolis – although the complicated timeline is a little disjointed. Several scale models show the buildings on top and to the south over 2000 years.
Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum. This is a studio metal-smithing workshop making traditional crafts. Its hours are unusual: Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 9-3 pm, Wednesday and Saturday 9-9 pm closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Acropolis. The highlight of Athens, it occupies a high flat mountaintop in the middle of the old part of the city. Dedicated to Athena Partenos (virgin), the daughter of Zeus, it was built using white Pentelic marble from 447-438 BC inside 1200 BC fortification walls. It is 31m x 70m and 15m high with 8 columns by 17 columns. It is famous for its metopes (friezes): east – a battle between Olympian gods and the Giants; south – battle with Centaures; north – a sack of Troy and west – repulsion or the Amazons. The pediments were wonderful sculptures with good models in the museum. Over the centuries it was destroyed and then rebuilt many times: the Persians, the Romans in 86 BC, the Herulians in 267 AD and was bombarded in 1687. It has been undergoing extensive renovation since 1983, most of it to undo the damage from a 1900-30 restoration that used iron-reinforced concrete and iron clamps. The 9m tall statue of Athena was taken to Constantinople and destroyed there by the Franks in 1204.
Below is the Theatre of Dionisis and the Odeon, another theatre donated in 160-69). This was my 4th World Heritage Site of the day.
Athens Central Market. I got here just before closing time at 6 pm. It is a large produce market with fish, meat and vegetables and a small restaurant section.
Treno sto Rouf (Theatre Train at Rouf). This is a parked train complete with a great restored steam locomotive and several dining cars. The cute bar and restaurant are open all the time, but live music and theatre (only in Greek) are presented every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
From Athens, I took the ferry to Crete for 3 days, returned and then drove north to see the north of Attica Province.
Chalkis, In the NM “European cities” series, this city sits on a peninsula on the west end of Euboea Island. Almost entirely surrounded by water and connected by two bridges.
Euboea. In the NM “islands” series, separated by the 60m wide Eudripas Strait, it is the second largest island in Greece.
Arachova In the NM “Villages and Small Towns” series, this town dramatically cascades down the mountainside. The highway passes through the middle with tiny lanes and stairways wandering through. A stone clock tower sits on a rock above the church. It is much prettier than most Greek towns with many stone buildings. Rocky peaks rise to the north and the deep valley far below is blanketed with olive groves.
DELPHI: Archaeological Site of Delphi
Ancient Delphi (pop 1500), 178km northwest of Athens is of all the archaeological sites in Greece, Ancient Delphi is the one with the most potent ‘spirit of place’. Built on the slopes of Mt Parnassos, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth and extending into a valley of cypress and olive trees, this World Heritage site’s allure lies both in its stunning setting and its inspiring ruins. The Ancient Greeks regarded Delphi as the centre of the world; according to mythology, Zeus released two eagles at opposite ends of the world and they met here. Ancient Delphi is 500m along the pine-shaded main road towards Arahova on a precipitous cliff edge.
The Delphic Oracle, the most powerful in Greece, sat on a tripod at the entrance to a chasm that emitted intoxicating vapours. A popular story proposes that the earliest oracles were young women who regularly ran off with their advice-seeking pilgrims, leaving the post temporarily vacant. Hence it became customary for the appointed seer (Pythia) to be at least 50 years of age.
When she was consulted for divine advice, the priestess inhaled the fumes and entered a trance. Her inspired, if somewhat vague, answers were translated into verse by a priest. In fact, the oracle’s reputation for infallibility may have rested with the often ambiguous or cryptic answers. Wars were fought, marriages sealed and journeys begun on the strength of the oracle’s visions.
Legend holds that one oracle suffered for her vagueness, whether vapour-induced or not. When Alexander the Great visited, hoping to hear a prophecy that he would soon conquer the ancient world, the oracle refused direct comment, instead of asking that he return later. Enraged, he dragged her by the hair out of the chamber until she screamed, ‘Let go of me; you’re unbeatable’. He quickly dropped her, saying ‘I have my answer’.
Sanctuary of Apollo. Considered the heart of the oracle, the steps to the Sacred Way wind gradually up to the foundations of the 4th century BC Doric Temple of Apollo, which dominates the entire sanctuary. In ancient times the Sacred Way was lined with treasuries and statues given by grateful city-states – Athens, Sikyon, Siphnos, Knidos and Thiva (Thebes) – all in thanks to Apollo. Above the temple is the well-preserved 4th-century-BC theatre, that was restored by the Pergamenon kings in the 1st century BC, yielding magnificent views from the top row. From the theatre the path continues to the stadium, the best-preserved in all of Greece.
The paved path heading east leads to the Castalian Spring on the left, where pilgrims cleansed themselves before consulting the oracle.
Sanctuary of Athena Pronea is the site of the 4th-century-BC tholos (rotunda), the most striking of Delphi’s monuments. This “structure comprised 20 columns on a three-stepped podium – three of its columns were re-erected in the 1940s. The white portions of each column are the original marble; the darker portions are new material. To its west, the foundations of the Temple of Athena Pronea are all that remains of a rectangular structure that was heavily damaged by the same rockslides and earthquake that levelled much of the tholos.
Delphi Archaeological Museum. From around the 8th century BC, Ancient Delphi managed to amass a considerable treasure trove, much of it reflected in its magnificent museum.
Upon entering the museum, in room 5 you’ll first notice the Sphinx of the Naxians, dating from 560 BC. Also residing here are well-preserved parts of the frieze from the Siphnian treasury, which depicts not only the battle between the gods and the giants but also the Judgment of Paris who was called upon to decide which goddess was most beautiful (he chose Aphrodite).
This is one of those spectacular world-class museums with great exhibits and terse labels. Explore the ruins after – the best is the intact Treasury of the Athenians and the polygonal wall – intricately fitted blocks (with 800 inscriptions) that supports the Temple of Apollo. The theatre held 5000 and was used in 1927 to hold a Greek tragedy. €12 no reduction
I met an American from New Jersey who loves Trump “he’s doing wonders for our economy”. I suggested that the economy is on the same (or worse) trajectory that it has been on since 2008 and that he read the Atlantic magazine “I don’t need that, I form my own opinions”. I said you are the first Republican I’ve met travelling. He said, “I’m a Democrat, Obama was terrible”. He is also a bigot – he must hate both women and blacks. Oh well, another ignorant American.
The road descended almost to the Gulf of Korinth and then climbed up and over another pass. The mountainside was covered with the tailings of mines and a parade of ore trucks passed by.
I then passed through 2 national parks:
Parnassos National Park. Established in 1938, Parnassos NP to the north of Delphi and Arahova, has three peaks over 2300m: Liakoura (2457m), Gerondovrachos (2396m) and Tsarkos (2416m). Kouvelos (1882m) is a popular rock-climbing face. Mt Parnassos is part of the elaborate E4 European long-distance path (orivatiko monopati) from Gibraltar to Cyprus, also known as the European Ramblers Path, or E4 European Path. See the European Ramblers Association (www.era-ewv-ferp.org) website for more information.
Between 800m and 1800m, the slopes of Parnassos support Kefallonian fir, spruce and juniper, interspersed with yellow-flowered shrubs, plum trees and the rare purple-flowered Daphne jasminea. Above the tree line are meadows of fescue grass. Spring flowers including crocuses, squills, tulips, orchids and irises sprout from the limestone rocks. Greece’s most common mammals, foxes, hares, squirrels and jackals, may be seen, as well as vultures, passerines and hawks.
Parnassos Ski Centre. On the slope of the mountain, Kelaria (1950m). At last count, there were 13 lifts covering more than 20 ski runs and alpine trails. The centre is 24km from Arahova and 17km from Amfiklia. Adjacent to Kelaria are the steeper slopes of Fterolakkas (six lifts), popular with extreme skiers. There is no public transport between Arahova and the ski centre.
Oeta NP. In 1966, Mount Oeta became the sixth of Greece’s national parks. With an area of 7,000 hectares, of which 3,370 form the core zone and 3,630 the periphery, the park covers approximately one-fourth of the mountain’s area and is the third-largest in Greece. The Gorgopotamos Gorge has also been declared an SAC, and together with the national park and the Asopos Valley forms the broader “Mount Oeta National Park – Asopos Valley” Special Protected Area. Oeta also has two wildlife refuges, where hunting is forbidden: the Skasmeni Frantzi – Dyo Vouna area on the northeastern slopes, and the Oiti–Pavliani area on the southeastern.
The highway then descended to the Malan Gulf area.
Thermopylae. Nice springs.
Memorial of Leonidas and Sparta, Thermopylae: In 480 BC, the Battle of Thermopylae, between 1,700,000 Persians under King Xerxes and 300 Spartans and 700 Thespians under Leonidas, king of Sparta occurred here. The Persians demanded the Greeks give up their arms, to which Leonidas responded “Come and get them”. The Greeks were behind 3 gates in the city of Ancient Anthela. The Persians attacked and reached the second gate where they were crushed after 2 days of a tough battle. On day 3, a traitor led the Persians through to the rear of the Greeks and Leonidas was killed. The Greeks retreated to the hill of Kolonos and fell fighting bravely (this is all from a sign beside the monument).
The monument is a long rock wall with a marble frieze showing the battle. Two reclining figures incongruously are on the ends and a grand bronze statue of a Greek soldier with a plumed helmet, shield and spear grace the top.
Two busloads of Greek students were at the monument. One came up to me and said “Do you know what that says?” referring to the Greek inscription on the monument. He said “Come and get them”. This is obviously a huge source of Greek pride.
From the Memorial of Leonidas and Sparta at Thermopylae, I returned to the northern part of Greece: Macedonia, Thrace, Epirus and Thessaly.