Thought of in the 1930s and 40s, development started in 1974 and opened in 1980, it was the first long-distance route to be officially designated in Scotland. It runs 153.2kms (95.5 miles) from the outskirts of Glasgow to Fort William. It is listed by National Geographic as one of the world’s top 10 best trails and is now also one of 26 long-distance routes designated as Scotland’s Great Trails.
Going south to north, it traverses from Lowland Scotland to the Highlands. It has a pastoral introduction, walks the length of Loch Lomond, and then enters glens flanked by great mountains. As you travel north, it crosses Rannoch Moor, largely on routes used by drovers. Weather is especially important in the section between Bridge of Orchy and Kingshouse where there is no shelter worth its name. The least appealing part is along the heavily trafficked A82 highway between Kinghouse and Altnafeadh. From then to the end the quality of walking is high and crosses the high point at Devil’s Staircase (550m). It is well maintained for the entire length.
It is neither easy nor outrageously demanding. Poor weather is not uncommon so it may not be the ideal route to start your first experience of long-distance walking. Fit, healthy and experienced walkers accustomed to long days on the hills will have no difficulty. Preparation should involve carrying a heavy pack, even if one is using the pack-carrying services. As it makes use of old drove and military roads that have been followed by modern roads and railway links, one is never far from help. Only when crossing Rannoch Moor is there any sense of isolation. Although traffic is in view often, it still passes through landscape second to none.
About 17,000 complete the West Highland Way every year. Many set off and don’t finish, some don’t even complete the first day. Being ill-prepared or having little experience doing day-long walking, day after day or having poor equipment can all determine your enjoyment and success. Each day’s walking should be within your own capability – use taxis if necessary and be prepared to modify your plans. Seven days is sensible if slightly demanding time frame to plan on walking. And this brief guide breaks it down into 7 parts. This is more for ease of reference and not intended as a daily itinerary. Consult some of the excellent guides that break the trip into 6, 8, and 9-day itineraries so that accommodation is always available.
History. The trail crosses three areas of great significance in Scottish history: the lands of Lennox, Breadalbane, and Lochaber. Much of the route is along ancient drove roads or old military roads built to help in the control of Jacobite clansmen.
Walking a long trail allows you to communicate and form a strong camaraderie with a lot of like-minded people. And many of those you meet several times and form long-lasting relationships.
When to go? Bad weather can happen during any season. In Scotland, weather statistics are meaningless. As start and dates are often fixed by one’s timetable, the reality is that you get whatever weather you get, and you have to be able to cope with it. There is some truth to the saying, there is no bad weather, just inadequate clothing. One needs to be prepared for wet and windy weather, and anything else is a bonus. Even the tiniest streams can become raging torrents and difficult to cross, although this is uncommon with the good footbridges on the route.
Try to start mid-week rather than on a weekend. There are many more people in July and August. May/June and September/October are most likely to offer the most settled weather and least congestion.
From mid-March to May could entail route diversions because of lambing in order to avoid distressing the ewes. Don does not pick up lambs, even if they appear to be abandoned as the ewes may truly abandon them then. The hunting season is from mid-August to mid-October but should only affect you if planning a diversion off the Way.
The midges can be ferocious any time from the end of May onwards. There are also horse flies and sheep ticks. Creams based on bog myrtle have been a traditional highland remedy. Avon ‘Skin So Soft’ has a good reputation with the Marines. They tend to not fly if there is much wind. Check yourself daily for ticks and remove using tweezers and grasping them close to the skin.
Whenever I talked to anyone about coming to Scotland and doing the WHW, they all said “Come in May to avoid the midges”.
Getting There, Back and Around. Glasgow is well serviced by bus, rail, and air. Local bus and train operate between Glasgow and Milngavie. Fort William is served by long-distance buses and the West Highland Rail Line from Glasgow.
Public transport serves many of the common stops along the Way so it is possible to do it in short sections. Waterbus’ service Loch Lomond.
This is a walking trail and is generally not recommended for cyclists.
Accommodation. There are good accommodations on the Way but reservations are highly recommended in the busy months. Some close down altogether in the off-season. The range of accommodation is complete with B&Bs, guest houses, hotels, campsites, youth hostels. Bothies, Wigwam shelters, bunkhouses and private hostels. Waterbus services allow access to the accommodation on the west side of Loch Lomond. See www.walkinginscotland.org and www.west-highland-way.co.uk have up-to-date listings. But the situation changes all the time.
Food. It should not be expected that remote villages are well endowed with shops and cafes necessarily open when you arrive. Local transport may not be available to facilitate a quick trip to a town. There are few sections where lunch is possible so have a good breakfast, carry plenty of liquid and daytime food and make the most of the evening meal.
Baggage Transfer. The WHW lends itself well to having someone take your heavy pack between accommodation.
Money. Estimate all cash requirements in advance as not all accommodation accepts credit cards. Along the Way, cash is available at Milngavie, Drymen, Crianlarich, Tyndrum, Kinlochleven (Thursday only), and Fort William.
Preparation. Getting in condition beforehand will only increase your enjoyment. Break-in boots first. If you feel a ‘hotspot’ anywhere on your feet demands doing something about it instantly.
What to Take. I will not give a list but would highly recommend an umbrella as the most efficient way to stay dry when walking. High wind can decrease effectiveness. Pack liners and covers are essential. If camping, you will need a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and cooking equipment, and utensils.
Dogs. Taking a dog is not practical. Few accommodation providers accept dogs. Doing the entire trip in less than 10 days requires a very tough and long-walk experienced dog. There are few veterinary services along the trail. Control of the dog is essential because of farm animals and breeding birds. Pick up all dog poo.
Book. Knowing the stats of each stage is vital: distance, ascent, walking time) and a good guidebook will help plan your itinerary and accommodation. Having a source of additional information is nice with sites of particular interest (historical, archaeological, sociological). A map that shows the full route is helpful but the trail is well waymarked. If you intend on deviating off the route, 1:25,000 topographical maps would be a good idea but are generally not necessary. GPS requires a consistent power source.
The best is Walking The West Highland Way by Terry Marsh – Cicerone Press.
Electronics. Britain is meteorologically sandwiched between moist maritime air and continental air creating large temperature variations and atmospheric instability. As a result, many and sometimes all weather variations can be experienced in one day. A good mobile weather app is www.metoffice,gov.uk or ‘Weather Live”. Wi-Fi access is increasingly available in cafes, pubs, and hotels but can’t be relied on. Mobile phone signals are restricted in coverage.
THE HIGHLANDS
Geography. The Highlands are sparsely populated, much less so than of old. Before the 19th century, there was a much larger population but that was gradually reduced by a number of factors: the outlawing of the traditional Highland way of life following the Jacobite uprising of 1745; the forced displacements of the Highland Clearances during the 18th and 19th centuries; and the migration in search of employment inspired by the Industrial Revolution between about 1760 and 1840. There are only minor settlements between Milngavie and Fort William: Crianlarich, Tyndrum, and Kinlochleven.
THE ROUTE – South to North
I am only listing hostels and campgrounds in accommodation.
1. STAGE 1 – Centre of Milngavie to Dryman – Junction of B858 and A809
Distance: 12½ miles (20kms)
Total Ascent: 835’ (255m). Total Descent: 845’ (257m)
Terrain: Relatively easy on good paths, tracks, and lanes. Woodland, open pasture, railway
Accommodation: Dryman – Kip in the Kirk (B&B and bunk room)
2. STAGE 2 – Dryman to Rowardennan pier
Distance: 15 miles (24kms). Balmaha halfway
Total Ascent: 2095’ (638m). Total Descent 1280’ (390m)
Terrain: Good tracks through the plantation, the open moorland; ascent over the shoulder of Conic Hill followed by steep descent; then an undulating and serpentine route generally between road and loch shore; some short sections of road walking. ,
Accommodation: Balmaha (12kms) – Balmaa B&B and bunkhouse, Milarroch Bay campsite.
Rowardennan – Ben Lomond Bunkhouse, Rowardennan Lodge youth hostel.
3. STAGE 3 – Rowarndennan to Crianlarich
Distance: 20 miles (32.5kms)
Total Ascent: 3303’ (1015m). Total Descent: 2790’(830m).
Terrain: Mostly forestry track following the eastern shore of Loch Lomond with diversions onto a rocky path with crags and boulders to Inversnaid; then the most demanding part of the Way on a tortuous up-and-down along the side of Loch Lomond to Inveraman; the paths and tracks generally well surfaced following the course of an old military road with only moderate ascents and descents; pass to the west of Crainrich and take branching path into the village.
Accommodation: Inversnaid (11.5kms) – Inversnaid Bunkhouse
Inverarnan (10.5kms from Inversnaid) – Beinglas Farm campsite
Crianlarich – Crainlarach Youth Hostel
4. STAGE 4 – Crainlarach to Bridge of Orchy
Distance: 13¼ miles (21.3kms)
Total Ascent: 1515’ (462m). Total Descent: 1590’ (484m)
Terrain: A stiff climb out of Crainlarach leads onto clear paths and tracks through woodland before heading down to the valley and an easy looping walk into Tyndrum, twice crossing the main road; a gentle ascent then wanders up alongside the railway to cross the British watershed before a long and easy descent through the wide-open valleys of Auch Glen.
Accommodation: Tyndrum (10.8kms) – By the Way campsite and hostel, Pine Trees Leisure Park campsite,
Bridge of Orchy – West Highland Way Sleeper bunk room
5. STAGE 5 – Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse
Distance: 12 miles (20.4kms)
Total Ascent: 1615’ (493m). Total Descent: 1335’ (407m)
Terrain: A short uphill then descends to the start of Rannoch Moor at Forest Lodge, across which a generally broad, stony track leads onto an easy gradient. This can be a very exposed section in poor weather, with high mountains on the one hand and open moorland on the other, and there is no shelter until the White Corries ski Centre
Accommodation: Glen Coe Mountain Resort camping
6. STAGE 6 – Kinghouse to Kinlocheven
Distance: 8½ miles (14kms)
Total Ascent: 1525’ (465m). Total Descent: 2290’ (697m)
Terrain: Good path throughout that traverses the mountain passes at the eastern end of Glen Coe, sticking to the old military road through and climbs the Devil’s Staircase before a long descent to remote Kinlochleven
Accommodation: Blackwater Hostel and campsite, MacDonald Hotel with camping
7. STAGE 7 – Kinlocheven to Fort William New Bridge
Distance: 14 miles (22kms)
Total Ascent: 2325’ (710m). Total Descent: 2325’ (710m).
Terrain: A steep climb out of Kinlocheven leads into the hidden valley of Laing Mor, with a broad track running on to Nevis Forest and crossed by many burns issuing from the hillsides, most simple and easy to navigate and often have footbridges but with high rain, some could prove troublesome. The route through the forest is rough in places with a few tiring undulates. Once the high point is reached, then all downhill to Glen Nevis and a final road walk out to conclude the day.
Accommodation: Achintee B&B and hostel, Glen Nevis Camping and Caravanning Park, Glen Nevis Youth Hostel.
Note: Because of time constraints, I did not do the WHW. The above is extracted from Walking the West Highland Way by Terry Marsh, Cicerone Press and I thank him for his excellent book.