Monaco (pop 38,000) March 15, 2018
History. Since the 13th century, Monaco’s history has been that of the Grimaldi family, whose rule began in 1297. Charles VIII of France recognized its independence in 1489 but snatched it back during the French Revolution. The royal family was imprisoned and upon release, had to sell the few possessions they still owned. The palace became a warehouse.
The Grimaldis were restored to the throne in 1814. In 1848, they lost Menton and Roquebrune to France, and Monaco swiftly became Europe’s poorest country. In 1860, it was recognized for a second time and a monetary agreement sealed the deal on future cooperation between the two countries.
Ranier III (r 1949-2005) added 20% to the size by reclaiming land from the sea to create an industrial quarter and in 2004 doubled the size of the harbour with a giant floating dyke making the port one of the world’s leading cruise ship harbours. Upon Ranier’s death, son Albert II became monarch.
Squeezed into just 200 hectares below a mountain and cliffs, this principality is the second smallest country in the world (the Vatican is smaller), but where this country lacks in size, it more than makes up for in attitude. A magnet for high-rollers and hedonists since the beginning of the 20th century, it’s also one of the world’s most notorious tax havens (residents pay no income tax). It’s also famous for the Casino de Monte Carlo, the annual Formula I Grand Prix (held every year since 1929 in May) and Princess Grace (who died in a car accident).
The city is dominated by high-rise hotels and high-end apartment blocks that rise into the hills like ranks of dominoes. The streets switch back down the mountain into confusing, pedestrian-unfriendly narrow one-way streets.
The rocky outcrop of Le Rocher juts out into the west side of the port and is home to the royal palace and a charming old town that looks quite different from the skyscrapers and superyachts.
The highway arrives at the top end of the city and I drove a bewildering array of narrow one-way streets down to the port. I hate to pay for parking and found a spot that looked like I wouldn’t get towed from, 30m from the marina. On a very rainy day, I walked around it admiring the amazing array of giant and not-so-giant yachts in the marina and took an elevator up to the casino.
Casino de Monte Carlo. Prince Charles III came up with the idea of a casino in 1866 (Monte Carlo is Ligurian for Mount Charles in honour of the prince). Peeping into the legendary marble and gold establishment is a Monaco essential. It is open to visitors every morning from 9 to 11 for 10€. It is Europe’s most lavish example of belle-epoque architecture. I arrived at about 11:30 and any access was not obvious. I eventually got through a carded door and entered a hallway for the performers in the Faust opera presently playing in the casino, passing dressing and makeup rooms. However, access upstairs was not possible as stairways and the elevators all required key-pad codes. After using the bathroom, I walked past everything again and nobody paid any attention to me. Outside, a large panorama below (the top of the lavish Fairmount Monte Carlo hotel) offers great views of the ocean and harbour.
To gamble or watch the gamblers, visit from 2 pm to 2 am. I thought I would pass.
Le Rocher. The only part of Monaco to have retained its old town, it sits on a pistol-shaped rock overlooking the sea and is the stronghold of the Grimaldi family. Tours of the palace are possible.
Musée Océanographique de Monaco. Built in 1910, this world-renowned aquarium has a 6-m deep lagoon with a coral reef separating the sharks from the colourful fishes plus a history of oceanography. Having dived in some of the best places in the world, I find aquariums disappointing and never go into them.