BETWEEN GLACIER AND HAMILL CREEKS
About 5 mi W of Mts Truce and Cauldron and the uplift centreed on the Truce Neve, rises a small, isolated cluster of peaks crowned at 10350′ by Archduke Mt. These peaks have been approached along streams draining N to Glacier Creek and by way of tributaries feeding S into Hamill Creek. There are no trails in these brushy side valleys.
Map: 82K/7W Duncan Lake
ARCHDUKE MT 3155m 10350′
Major peak in area; double summit.
From camp at 3200′ near the confluence of Nine-Mile Creek with Hamill Creek (almost directly S of objective), bushwhack up SW ridge of Peak 8700 to cliffs at 6700′ (4 hr). Contour N across alps into high basin below S ridge of mtn (2 hr, bivouac at 8000′ on FA). Climb directly to crest of§ ridge, following it over pinnacles to twin summits in 3½ hr. Descend (after traverse to Emperor Peak, which see) via E ridge to snow finger above E glacier, which is then descended to regain route of ascent in high basin (3 hr). RT from Hamill Creek, including ascent of Emperor Peak, 18 hr.
FA B. Beck, C. Wagner, 1967
EMPEROR PEAK 3124m 10250′
W summit of Archduke massif.
Easy traverse from Archduke Mtn in¾ hr. FA unknown.
B FLAT PEAK 2911m 9550′
One mi NW of Archduke massif.
Approach from Glacier Creek into valley W of group. From W cirque gain N ridge via a gully, thence along ridge to top. 3 hr from camp in W cirque.
FA B. Beck, 1963
FINGERBOARD PEAKS 2880m 9450′
A short ridge of pinnacles one mi SW of Archduke Mt
CIRQUE PEAK 2637m 8650′
W outlier of group; 2½ mi SW of Archduke Mt.
From camp near head of McLeod Creek, scramble over minor peak to SW (Jean’s Peak, 8450) and climb firm rock of SW ridge; 2½ hr.
FA B. & P. Beck, 1963