MacBETH GROUP & BETWEEN GLACIER & HAMILL CREEKS

This small group of summits is clustered about the Macbeth Snowfield, a high neve rising about 6 mi E of the N end of Duncan Lake and N of Glacier Creek. The neve proper is about 3 mi in length, with an average width of roughly 1 mi. It discharges by 2 principal glaciers, one at the N end, the other at the S, as well as several smaller tongues on the E and W. Primary drainage is to Glacier Creek, whose N terminal fork encircles the group on the E, and to Little Glacier Creek on the N and W. The nearly level snowfield is at an average elevation of some 8500′, the surrounding summits rising 1000′ or less above it.

Though they lie at the western end of the Purcells, these peaks were originally reached by the much longer approach from the E by A. Maki and R. C. West in 1960. From the valley of Horsethief Creek, this party ascended Starbird Glacier to Starbird Pass (8000), contoured around the head of the N terminal fork of Glacier Creek and reached the snowfield at its NE end. In the course of their 4 day foray, they climbed Mt Macbeth, the highest peak in the group (CAJ 44- 37).

Nowadays, since the construction of a logging road up Glacier Creek from Duncan Lake, the approach from the E has been totally superseded. From the Glacier Creek road, two routes of approach to the Macbeth Snowfield have been used in recent years. The first leaves the road at approx 5½ mi (2900) and goes NE up the valley of the first large N tributary to Glacier Creek. 1½ days of rough travel to cover about 3 mi and place a camp at 7000′ below tongue of S outlet glacier. The second route leaves the road at approx 9 mi (3700) and follows the creek draining directly S from Mt Macbeth (“Dunsinane Creek”). A few hours to reach tree line. It would appear that, although the “Dunsinane Creek” route is considerably shorter, access to the snowfield itself may be much less problematical from the N tributary.

Maps: 82K/7W, 82K/7E.

MT MacDUFF   2990m   9810′
On NE margin of Macbeth Snowfield.
From neve, ascend snow and easy broken rock of SW slopes to summit in one hr. (FA party gained neve in 3 hr from camp at lake in N terminal fork of Glacier Creek via glacier just N of objective and a short headwall, an approach rendered obsolete by the Glacier Creek road.
FA A. Maki, R. C. West, 8/1960

MT MacBETH   3033m   9950′
At S end of Macbeth Snowfield.
From neve, ascend steep snow of N face to rocks of first forepeak. Scramble easily over 2 more forepeaks to deep notch, from which more difficult climbing brings one to summit. 2 hr from neve. An enjoyable route.

FA A. Maki, R. C. West, 8/1960

MT LADY MacBETH   2880m   9450′
Sharp rock peak one mi SE of Mt Macbeth.
From camp at 5500′ on Dunsinane Creek, ascend to upper valley and climb snowfields and a snow-filled couloir to the notch (8500) on the ridge be­ tween objective and Mt Macbeth (4½ hr). Climb firm rock of NW ridge (up to F4) to summit, the Emost point (2½ hr). Ascent 7 hr; descent 4½ hr.
FA C. & G. Wagner, 8/1972

MT FLEANCE   2911m   9550′
2½ mi NW of Mt Macbeth, forming W retaining wall of Macbeth Snowfield.
FA D. Phelps & friends, on skis. Via N ridge from snowfield, 4/1969

MT BANQUO    3002m   9850′
Prominent peak, second highest of group, at W edge of Macbeth Snowfield; ¾ mi W of Mt Fleance.
From camp at 7000′ in valley of first large N tributary of Glacier Creek, ascend S slopes of objective to gain main ridge which is followed W to summit. Descent via scree of SW slopes.
FA, R. Anderson, R. Askew, D. Cameron, L. Gansner, J Steed, J. Street, 1969

BETWEEN GLACIER AND HAMILL CREEKS
About 5 mi W of Mts Truce and Cauldron and the uplift centreed on the Truce Neve, rises a small, isolated cluster of peaks crowned at 10350′ by Archduke Mt. These peaks have been approached along streams draining N to Glacier Creek and by way of tributaries feeding S into Hamill Creek. There are no trails in these brushy side valleys.

Map: 82K/7W Duncan Lake 

ARCHDUKE MT   3155m   10350′
Major peak in area; double summit.
From camp at 3200′ near the confluence of Nine-Mile Creek with Hamill Creek (almost directly S of objective), bushwhack up SW ridge of Peak 8700 to cliffs at 6700′ (4 hr). Contour N across alps into high basin below S ridge of mtn (2 hr, bivouac at 8000′ on FA). Climb directly to crest of§ ridge, following it over pinnacles to twin summits in 3½ hr. Descend (after traverse to Emperor Peak, which see) via E ridge to snow finger above E glacier, which is then descended to regain route of ascent in high basin (3 hr). RT from Hamill Creek, including ascent of Emperor Peak, 18 hr.
FA B. Beck, C. Wagner, 1967

EMPEROR PEAK   3124m   10250′
W summit of Archduke massif.
Easy traverse from Archduke Mtn in¾ hr. FA unknown.

B FLAT PEAK   2911m   9550′
One mi NW of Archduke massif.
Approach from Glacier Creek into valley W of group. From W cirque gain N ridge via a gully, thence along ridge to top. 3 hr from camp in W cirque.

FA B. Beck, 1963

FINGERBOARD PEAKS   2880m   9450′
A short ridge of pinnacles one mi SW of Archduke Mt

CIRQUE PEAK   2637m   8650′
W outlier of group; 2½ mi SW of Archduke Mt.
From camp near head of McLeod Creek, scramble over minor peak to SW (Jean’s Peak, 8450) and climb firm rock of SW ridge; 2½ hr.
FA B. & P. Beck, 1963

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I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am “home”, are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking.
I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.

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