STOCKDALE GROUP

In this group are the mountains circumscribed by the great arc of Stockdale Creek, between it and Horsethief Creek of which it is the major N branch. Included also are the lesser sedimentary peaks of the Purcell Divide which here occup1es the ridge separating Stockdale and Howser Creeks. This ridge intersects the main axis of the group just W of Eyebrow Peak, the highest summit, the Divide then continuing on to Starbird Pass (8000′; Horsethief to Glacier Creek) which marks the southern limit of the group. Several extensive glaciers emanate from Eyebrow Peak, the largest being Starbird Glacier on its S flank while another sizable one to the NE serves as the source of Stockdale Creek. 

ACCESS. The peaks have normally been approached from HorsethiefCreek (see Commander Group), the northerly ones around Mt Stockdale more or less directly from the Horsethief valley itself.
In 1960 a trail was cut about 5 mi up Stockdale Creek providing alternate access to these peaks. However, since the cable bridge is now down, a very hazardous fording of Horsethief Creek is necessary (two fatalities in 1975!). Summits in the vicinity of Eyebrow Peak are reached from the head of Horsethief Creek over the Starbird Glacier. Although glacial retreat has made this route more difficult than in earlier times, it remains probably the best choice. With the exception of Eyebrow Peak, the peaks in the Stockdale Group are devoid of mountaineering interest.

Maps: 82K/10E; 82K/7E.

MT STOCKDALE   3124m   10250′
In W angle between Horsethief and Stockdale Creeks.
An easy climb by any route. No record of first ascent. 

TRICORN PEAKS   3155m    10350′
Three summits (S highest) one mi W of Mt Stockdale.
A non-technical scramble from Horsethief Creek via the E slopes and S ridge (AAJ 14- 201).
FA R. Gnagy, B. Lilley, 1963

MT DOROTHY   3063m   10050′
3 mi W of junction of Farnham and Horsethief Creeks.
1. S Ridge. From Horsethief valley, follow unnamed creek N in direction of objective, ascending shale of S ridge; 7 hr up.

FA R. Bibby, R. Cleveland, J. Hoag, W. Maclaren Prescott, 7/1928

CAMP PEAK   3094m   10150′
NW of junction of Horsethief Creek and outlet stream from Lake of the Hanging Glaciers; 1½ mi ENE of Eyebrow Peak.
FA Jul 1928, ACC party, via S slope.

EYEBROW PEAK   3353m   11001′
Major peak at N head of Starbird Glacier, apex of several radiating glaciers.
1. From camp near head of Horsethief Creek, follow Star­ bird Glacier for almost 3½ mi, keeping to its N side and/or using its N lateral moraine, to gain the upper neve at S base of mountain (4 hr). Circle N and W, crossing saddle between objective and Birthday Peak (which see) into basin NW of peak. Then ascend over snow and shale on an easterly course above SW face to the summit. Ascent 9 hr.

FA D. Brown, E.W. Harnden, L. Nettleton, E. Par­son. 1914
The following three routes were ascended in July 1928 by ACC parties (led as indicated) from ”Thunder Camp” at the junction of Horsethief Creek and the outlet stream from Lake of the Hanging Glaciers. Approach as in Route 1 to S base of peak in 4 hr,

2. W Face. Ascend snow couloir in face; 5½ hr. C. G. Wates
3. SW Face. Good climbing on rock; 4 hr. H. P. Thomson 

4. S Ridge Eventually forced to E face; 4½ hr. H, Ulrichs

BIRTHDAY PEAK   3124m   10520′
One mi NW of Eyebrow Peak on main divide.
Approach as for Route 1 on Eyebrow Peak, ascending objective by S snow slopes.
FA A.H. & E. L. MacCarthy, C. Kain, 8/1915

UNNAMED 3002m 9850′ 
3 mi SW of Eyebrow Peak across Starbird Glacier.
Via SW slopes and W ridge in 2 hr from 8600′ on S ridge (reached on high level traverse from Starbird Pass to Macbeth Group.

FA A. Maki, R. C. West, 8/1960

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I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am “home”, are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking.
I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.

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