VERMONT PEAK 2862m 9390′
A dome-shaped shale summit, the highest point of the ridge between Vermont and Malachite Creeks. Surveyed at 9391 feet, and climbed by the Survey.
Map 82K/14 Westfall River
1. FA 1907, route unknown
2. South Ridge. Ascend Vermont Creek into the basin between objective and Mount Syphax, and ascend the southwest snow slopes until forced to the right to gain the south ridge at about 2670 meters (8750 feet).
Climb to the west summit (Class 3-4) and then to the higher east summit with the Geological Survey marker; 4.5 hours from camp at 1970m (6450 feet) in Vermont Creek. (II,4,s). 2/7/1991.
UNNAMED 2760m 9055′
It is located on the far northeast end of the group, between Malachite and Vermont Creeks.
Map 82K/15 Bugaboo Creek, northwest corner.
MOUNT SYPHAX 2880m 9449′
The southeast buttress of Malachite Pass (Malachite and Syncline Creeks). It is named for the villain in a Jules Verne story.
1. South Ridge. From the Vermont Creek mine, climb to near the high col (Cold Shiver Col) on the east ridge of Syncline Mountain, 4 hours with packs. Turn north up a small icefall to a higher glacier on the south side of Syphax. Follow the south ridge, and then the southeast face, to the upper rubble slope leading to the south summit. The higher north rock summit is easily reached from
Ascent from the glacier, 2.5 hours. Glacier (II,4,s). 22/8/1953.
2. East Slopes. From camp on Vermont Creek, ascend into the basin between Syphax and Vermont. Climb the east-facing snow slopes to gain the summit mass where the south ridge abuts it. A bit to the east, across snow slopes from the ridge, ascend a diagonal break through the rocks, with one small steep pitch at the top, to reach the final snow slopes.
Six hours up. (III,5.5,s). 5/7/1991.
UNNAMED (TOLAND TOWER) 2670m 8760′
A rock tower with two summits on the jagged ridge south of the Ruth Mine, east of Azurite Mountain.
1. East Ridge. Ascend an old road, a stream bed, and a lateral moraine south from the mining camp in the Vermont Creek valley, and then snow slopes to the ridge. Ascend west over several small summits toward the tower. There are 50 meters of roped climbing just below the summit. (II, 4,s).
RH, RP, LS, RW, 9/8/1959.
Two smaller summits on the east ridge of Azurite Mountain were climbed by the HMC members of Toland Tower. Leo Slaggie did not do the traverse; he drove the car back.
AZURITE MOUNTAIN 2740m 8990′
Azurite is the highest peak on the ridge south of Vermont Creek; east buttress of the pass between Vermont Creek and the north fork of Crystalline Creek. The west summit is the higher, and only the east summit is on the map.
1. Northwest Slopes. From camp in Vermont Creek, climb to the pass between Syphax and Azurite. Diagonally ascend the southwest side of the northwest buttress to the col at 2480m (8150 feet) in the northwest ridge. Climb via the snow and rock of the northwest and west side to the top, 5 hours up. (III,5.4,s). 3/7/1991.
UNNAMED 2760m 9055′
Situated 1.5 kilometres east of Syncline Mountain.
1. Southeast Ridge. From the pass between Syphax and Azurite, cross to and ascend steep snow slopes leading to the southeast ridge at 2530 meters (8300 feet). Climb the broad, easy slopes of the southeast ridge to the summit, 3.5 hours up from camp on Vermont Creek. (II,4,s). 4/7/1991.
SYNCLINE MOUNTAIN (BROUILLARD) 3004m 9987′
Located at the head of the north fork of Crystalline Creek; highest point in the Vermont Group.
1. East Face, South Ridge. Here is a complicated route on rotten rock. From Cold Shiver Col, climb up ledges and gullies on the east face of the southeast tower and traverse the ledge north around a difficult corner into a notch. Then traverse left (west) across the south face to a southwest talus shelf, from which scree is ascended to the south.
Here, the party split, one group climbing on the east side and the other on the west. The higher north summit is reached by a crack opening into a narrow chimney, which emerges as a tunnel at the top. The more difficult south summit should not be confused with the southeast tower. Ascent from the col, 5 hours, descent 2 hours. Glacier (III,5.4,s). 23/8/1953.
Variation: From Lakes Peak by the south ridge. (III,5.4).
RC,RG, KK,MW, 10/8/1959.
Southeast Tower: Climb the snow couloir, 50 to 55 degrees steep, on the south side of Syncline to the col between the tower and the main peak. Proceed east up broken ledges and a ramp to the base of the tower. The top is very narrow, shaped like a front tooth.
Descent was to Cold Shiver Col; 5 hours round trip from camp in the Valley of the Lakes. Jim Kienholz, 2/8/1985.
LAKES PEAK 2850m
Located 0.7 kilometer southwest of Syncline Mountain.
1. South Ridge. Climbed on a south to north traverse to Syncline Mountain. There are few difficulties on Lakes Peak; Syncline is a technical ascent.
Gaining the south ridge from the south has route finding problems. A ledge angles up from right to left across the south face; proceed to a large cantilevered block. There is a small gully there, and the right to left line continues (do not switchback right at the block) to the south ridge.
Return was by the same route (in a later year). (I,3,s).
RC, RG, KK, MW, 10/8/1959.
2. North Ridge. See Route 1.
UNNAMED 2700m 8858′
A rock peak located between the Valley of the Lakes and the middle fork of Crystalline Creek; 1.4 km northeast of Snowman Lake. Map coordinates 966-386. (AAJ 9:54 top photo)
1. West The west ridge is a leisurely 4 hour round trip from camp at the Valley of the Lakes, without difficulty. (I,3,s). 28/7/1985.
APE’S HEAD 2720m 8924′
Located east of the fine campsites at the Valley of the Lakes, this unusual summit, when approached from the west, resembles the head of King Kong gazing skyward toward his mountain retreat. Map co- ordinates 005-394 on the Bugaboo Creek map sheet 82K/15.
1. West Ridge. The west ridge and the final slopes are all Class 3. It is a long day’s climb from the Valley of the Lakes. (III,3,s). 8/1985.