TETRAGON PEAK 2910m 9547′
Highest summit and the hydrographic apex of the group. There is conspicuously folded bedrock on the northeast face. The rock is of good quality on Tetragon Peak.
1. Southwest Ridge.
The FA party first climbed Unnamed 2790m south- southwest of Tetragon, and then ascended the southwest ridge. Traverse to the right when near the summit.
Descent was by the steep northwest ridge, with one 25 meter rappel, to the Tetragon-Cuestaform col. They descended ledges to the west after the ascent of Cuestaform. (II,3). RH, GM, AN, NP, MW, RW, 17/8/1959.
2. Northwest Ridge. Requires a rappel on descent; see Route 1
UNNAMED 2790m 9154′
Located 1.8 km south-southwest of Tetragon Peak. Map coordinates 965-274.
1. North Slopes. Climb from a camp in the south fork of Hume Creek via the northern glacial slopes. The FA party descended northeast en route to Tetragon Glacier (I,4,s).
RH, GM, AN, NP, MW, RW, 17/8/1959.
2. Northeast Slopes. See Route 1.
3. Northwest to South. Ascend to the cirque below Tetragon Peak and climb south up steep snow beside a glacier to the northwest ridge, and climb the northwest ridge. The party descended the south ridge and traversed over minor peaks at the head of the icefield, descending the east side of a rock rib which cleaves the glacier. Glacier travel on descent. Glacier (II,4,s).
JA, MB, JK, 1/8/1984.
4. South Ridge. See Route
UNNAMED 2820m 9252′
Situated south-southeast of camp in upper (south) Hume Creek; 4.3 km SSW of Tetragon Peak. Its two glaciers drain north to Hume Creek. Map coordinates 955-252.
1. Northwest Slopes. From camp, ascend the long north ridge, go across the glacier and climb the easy northwest snow slopes (glacier). Glacier (I,4,s).
RC, RG, KK, RP, 17/8/1959.
2. Southwest Ridge. Traverse from the two unnamed peaks (2640m) and ascend the short southwest ridge. Descend the northeast ridge and go over a minor peak, then glacier to the top of a prominent rock ridge (north ridge; see Route 3, Unnamed 2790m), returning via its summit. Detour a cliff part way down. Glacier (I,4,s). July 30,
3. Northeast Ridge. See Route 2
UNNAMED 2640m & UNNAMED 2640m
These two summits are directly south of the camp in the south fork of Hume Creek, at the head of the valley and icefields. 945-252.
1. West to East Traverse. Follow alpine ledges south from camp to a glacier and traverse southeast on the ridge over the two peaks. The FA party continued to Unnamed 2820m. Glacier (I,4,s). 30/7/1984.
UNNAMED 2640m UNNAMED 2700m
Located 5.8 km southwest of camp in the south fork of Hume Creek, and three km east of Duncan River. Map coordinates 894-255 and 901-248.
From camp in upper (south fork) Hume Creek, follow ascending ramps to the shoulder below snowfields, turn west, and contour a small basin to the head of the valley northeast of the icefield. Ascend an avalanche path and grassy slopes to a lateral moraine of the north glacier. Ascend the edge of the glacier to the snow crest and a cornice.
Follow the southeast ridge to the higher peak, descend its west ridge and traverse to the southeast ridge of the lower peak, and its summit. Return over the former.
On return, go north of obvious bluffs, then down an avalanche path on snow. Glacier (II,4,s). MB, August 3, 1984.