MOUNT GRADY 2900m 9514′
Mount Grady is just west of Mount Burnham.
1. West Ridge. From the KMC helicopter camp above the Odin Creek headwall, go over Odin Glacier to the Odin-Saturday col and descend the snow and ice couloir (see Odin). Place an advance camp near the highest small lakes (2270m, 7450 feet) northeast of Bearpaw Lake, by traversing open country south of Odin for 1.5 km. Approach a north/south ridge of “shark’s teeth” (the western shark’s teeth ridge) connecting to Frigg Glacier; aim for the notch just N of the highest shark’s tooth and descend the east side of this col on tilted, exposed strata (unpleasant Class 4) to the snowfield above the lakes. “Notch 3” (213-987) in the western shark’s teeth ridge is the lowest, most southerly notch. The approach gully is loose and dirty (hard Class 3), but the descent on the east side is easy on talus and meadow.
From high camp at the lakes, ascend to an obvious col on the shark’s teeth ridge east of camp (the eastern shark’s teeth ridge), and contour around the basin to the east. Aim for a point just below a big notch on the north/south ridge ahead, and gain the ridge just south, right, of it (the ridge that runs south from the west ridge of Grady). Ascend the ridge to an obvious buttress, then ascend to the right until two gullies are seen. Take the right hand, less obvious, gully and climb it to the west ridge. The long west ridge consists of false summits, clefts, and slabs slanting southwest. Pass the clefts on the south side, using the rope occasionally. The north side of the ridge overhangs. The climb is dry, carry water. If one climbs down the ridge, there are few opportunities for rappelling, because the ridge is not steep but is a knife edge.
(Two rappels were used) Eight hours return to camp at the lakes for the west ridge alone. The party of three traversed and descended the east ridge to Mount Burnham. (III,5.0,s,*).
GB, BP, DK, August 1, 1973.
Make an early start; the west ridge is a long climb. If one is caught by bad weather, the slabs will be slippery. Bring rock protection.
2. East Ridge. The party of the west ridge descended the east ridge, en route to Mount Burnham. The east ridge is similar to the west ridge, but is steeper and a bit more difficult. (III,5.0)
MT GRADY
I thought that I might begin this article by describing some harrowing jam we had gotten ourselves in, but there wasn’t any. Nor was there any bad weather or bivouacs. In fact, it was a thoroughly pleasant outing and a most suitable conclusion to this camp. For this reason alone it should be worthy of note.
Grady is the western of the two distinctive peaks east of Mt. Odin. This pair, separated by a deep notch, can be clearly seen from Nakusp and the Galena Bay ferry.
On Saturday, August 4th, Hamish and I set out from base camp to climb one and perhaps both. We got away in the late morning, thinking the route too high camp to be a leisurely outing. However, we misjudged the heat and intensity of the sun, so our tongues were well and truly hanging out after a five-hour slog to reach a high camp by some lakes at 7,400′ south of the Frigg Glacier. Our route took us up the Saturday Glacier, through the Saturday-Odin col (one rappel onto steep snow on the south side), and east through open country for about a mile. We then ascended to a notch just north of the highest tooth on a north-south shark’s teeth ridge. Getting down to the next valley to the east was perhaps the most uncomfortable part of the outing as we had to descend some exposed class 4 rock while toting heavy packs. At this point we met Fred, Ross, and Andrew, who were returning from the high camp. They had thoughtfully left a tent, stove, and cooking pot for us–by prior arrangement, of course. If all went well, we hoped to be doubly blessed, our intention being for the helicopter to pick us up at high camp in two days when camp ended.
Gentlemen mountaineers that we are, we were off at the crack of 7:00 next morning to have a look at Grady. Fred had given us excellent directions as his party had climbed the peak two days before; we were able to benefit from some of their hard-earned experience. So here’s how we did it. First, we crossed another north-south shark’s teeth ridge to the east of our camp and almost identical to the one on the west. Then we ambled across a basin and headed for a point just below a prominent notch in the next north-south ridge, this one a part of Mt. Grady itself. Strolling up this ridge, we reached an obvious buttress and veered right and up till we reached two gullies. Armed with Fred’s knowledge, we chose the right or less obvious gully; it was at this point that I put on my rock shoes, a decision that made the climb a very pleasant one. Hamish had already changed to shorts and Hi Techs so we were ready for a mid-summer ramble. Ascending the aforementioned gully, we soon reached Grady’s long west ridge which we followed to the summit without roping. We occasionally detoured to the right or south side, the north being mercilessly overhanging in spots. An earlier comment that the ridge is made up of “false summits, clefts, and slabs” is apt; it did seem to go on for a long time. Just below the flat-topped summit, there is one short pitch of 5.0. The rest of the climb is fourth class and most enjoyable.
Reaching the summit at 11:00, we lounged for an hour, gazing across the massive gap to the summit of Burnham where Janice, Pat Taddy, Linda Allis and I had stood almost exactly 10 years before.
On our descent, which took 3½ hours, we rappelled the steep pitch below the summit and down climbed the rest unroped. The only tricky portion one needs to remember occurs in the gully below the west ridge. Farther down, the gully forks. The left one presumable leads to the south face and much nastiness; the right one leads to safety and the ascent route.
In sum, it was a pleasant fourth class route, fitting for the last climb of the week. Oh yes, the helicopter did come the next morning just about the time I finished reading my novel.
Kim Kratky