MOUNT GRADY 2900m 9514′
Mount Grady is just west of Mount Burnham.
1. West Ridge. From the KMC helicopter camp above the Odin Creek headwall, go over Odin Glacier to the Odin-Saturday col and descend the snow and ice couloir (see Odin). Place an advance camp near the highest small lakes (2270m, 7450 feet) northeast of Bearpaw Lake, by traversing open country south of Odin for 1.5 km. Approach a north/south ridge of “shark’s teeth” (the western shark’s teeth ridge) connecting to Frigg Glacier; aim for the notch just N of the highest shark’s tooth and descend the east side of this col on tilted, exposed strata (unpleasant Class 4) to the snowfield above the lakes. “Notch 3” (213-987) in the western shark’s teeth ridge is the lowest, most southerly notch. The approach gully is loose and dirty (hard Class 3), but the descent on the east side is easy on talus and meadow.
From high camp at the lakes, ascend to an obvious col on the shark’s teeth ridge east of camp (the eastern shark’s teeth ridge), and contour around the basin to the east. Aim for a point just below a big notch on the north/south ridge ahead, and gain the ridge just south, right, of it (the ridge that runs south from the west ridge of Grady). Ascend the ridge to an obvious buttress, then ascend to the right until two gullies are seen. Take the right hand, less obvious, gully and climb it to the west ridge. The long west ridge consists of false summits, clefts, and slabs slanting southwest. Pass the clefts on the south side, using the rope occasionally. The north side of the ridge overhangs. The climb is dry, carry water. If one climbs down the ridge, there are few opportunities for rappelling, because the ridge is not steep but is a knife edge.
(Two rappels were used) Eight hours return to camp at the lakes for the west ridge alone. The party of three traversed and descended the east ridge to Mount Burnham. (III,5.0,s,*).
GB, BP, DK, August 1, 1973.
Make an early start; the west ridge is a long climb. If one is caught by bad weather, the slabs will be slippery. Bring rock protection.
2. East Ridge. The party of the west ridge descended the east ridge, en route to Mount Burnham. The east ridge is similar to the west ridge, but is steeper and a bit more difficult. (III,5.0).