UNNAMED 2600m 8530′
North of Mohican Mountain, at the extreme head of Gainer Creek.
Map 82K/11 Trout Lake, 823-210.
1. South Ridge. From the summit of Un. 2580m, descend back to the col (careful), then descend the west face of the sub-peak (moderately desperate in places) to a bench almost level with the highest, narrow tongue of the Work one’s way up to the ridge north of the sub- peak on snow and along a moat.
Traverse the serpentine ridge of limestone and dirt (pleasant Class 4) to the south ridge of Un. 2600m (4.5 hours from camp) and go to the flat summit on solid quartzite slabs (20 minutes); no cairn found in 2002. (II, 4,s).
FRA Paul Allen, Kim Kratky, 12/9/2002.
Return to the col, and descend the long couloir to the west (loose rock) to return to camp (see Un. 2580m). If this peak were ascended directly from camp by the couloir, it would be rated (I,3,s).
2. West See Route 1.
UNNAMED 2580m 8465′
On the ridge 1.7 km north of Mohican Mountain is this attractive peak, which resembles Mohican’s south summit. Map 82K/11 Trout Lake, 817-193.
1. Northwest Ridge, Northeast Face. Drive to the northernmost point of the Gainer Creek road and backpack along the old road on the west side to just below Badshot Mountain (1 hour with packs).
Cross to the east side of Gainer Creek on the Mohican Mine road, leave it immediately and head north through a boulder field. Then use the creek bed (slippery) and the west bank. At the waterfall, there is a track/ game trail on the east bank (slippery; alder also). Above, traverse to the west bank and continue up alps to a level campsite on the east side about one kilometre from the col at the head of Gainer Creek (812-204), 2.5 hours from the truck.
From camp, head south up alps, scree and snow to join the prominent northwest ridge at its base (avoid the more westerly northwest ridge with its rotten towers). Staying on the south side of a glacier, ascend grotty slopes, hugging the ice at the tongue and edge; pass left of a rock fin by walking in the moat.
Almost immediately, go right on snow, join and follow the prominent shingly ridge to the base of the sub-peak northeast of the objective. Scramble the west side of the peak (loose, rotten) and either pass over it or traverse it on the right (south) to gain the col between it and the objective.
From there, scramble the northeast face of Un. 2580m on loose limestone (15 min.). A cairn without record was on top (2 hours from camp). (I,3,s).
FRA Paul Allen, Kim Kratky, 12/9/2002.
UNNAMED 2580 m. (1.75 km. north of Mohican Mtn. GR 818-193) and UNNAMED 2600 m. (3.4
1. NNE of Mohican Mtn. GR 823-210) Map Trout Lake 82K/11
On Sept. 11th and 12th, Paul Allen and I returned to the Badshots to complete a club trip that was cancelled in June because of road access problems. Our eyes were on the two presumably-unclimbed peaks north of Mohican Mtn. and at the headwaters of Gainer Creek.
As usual, we drove to the northernmost point of Gainer Creek road just south of Bunker Hill Creek (still 2WD low clearance all the way; GR 791-165). From this point, we hiked in Wed. afternoon, Sept. 11, to set up a high camp. The approach is of some interest, especially since it is seasonally sensitive. Here goes.
Follow the old road (ATV only) on foot along the west side of Gainer to a point just below Badshot Mtn. (55 min. with full packs; 795-184). Cross to the east bank of Gainer on the Mohican Mine road and immediately leave the road to head north through a boulder field. As the boulder field disappears, head toward the creek and walk in the bed (likely possible only at low water season; even dry rocks are very slippery). Alternate between the creek bed and west bank as needed until you reach an obvious cascade/falls (clearly visible from afar; 808-198). Look carefully from a spot (this year a big snow tongue of avvy debris) at the bottom of the falls; you should be able to make out a hunter’s track/game trail on the east bank. Follow this to the top of the falls through dense slide alder and along slippery vegetation on steep slopes above the canyon. The valley is narrow at the falls and choked with alder right to the valley walls; this is the best route. Once through the falls, traverse carefully to the west bank and continue up through alps to find a level campsite. We had to work a bit to find a really good one on the east bank near the creek at 1960 m. (2 ó hours from the truck: GR 812-204).
By the way, the fabled Grizzly Notch looks awful—steeP and choked with vegetation, and probably bears.
On Thursday, we went first to u/n 2580, getting away at the salubrious hour of 7:30 (well, it was mid-September). The peak is clearly visible from the campsite. Here is the best, and maybe only feasible, route.
From camp, head south up alps, scree, and snow to join the prominent NW ridge at its base (clearly visible from camp; there’s also a more westerly NW ridge—very chaucy and studded with rotten towers; singularly unappetizing). Staying on the south side of an unnamed glacier, ascend grotty slopes, hugging the head high ice at the tongue and edge; then pass left of a rock fin by walking in the moat next to the glacier. Almost immediately, zig right on snow to join and follow a prominent shingly ridge leading to the base of the sub-peak northeast of the objective. Scramble the west side of the sub peak (definitely loose and rotten) and either pass over the top or traverse it on the right (south) to gain the col between it and the objective. From there, scramble the northeast face of u/n 2580 on loose limestone (15 min.).
We found a dilapidated cairn on the summit, possibly built by a miner, but no record (1 hr. 50 min. up from camp). We did put in a proper KMC summit tube record. The summit ridge is along, thin NW-SE blade; approaches from the south, unlike Mohican, look suicidal—loose and very steep.
After a break, we decided to traverse the long, meandering ridge north to the base of u/n 2600. Beginning at 10:00, we descended u/n 2580 back to the col (care needed; exposed and fairly steep), went to the top of the sub-peak, and decided we didn’t fancy down climbing its steeper and looser looking north ridge. Instead we descended the west face of the sub-peak (moderately desperate in places) to a bench almost level with the highest, narrow tongue of the glacier. We worked our way up to the ridge north of the sub-peak on snow and along a moat. Next we embarked on the ridge traverse, following a serpentine of limestone and dirt up and down, in pleasant 4th class scrambling, to reach the base of u/n 2600 by 12:00. After a snack, we dumped our packs and enjoyed a pleasant 20 min. ascent on heather, broken rock, and solid quartzite slabs. Perhaps the most solid Badshots peak I have been on. On top by 12:30 (2 ó hours from summit of u/n 2580), we built a cairn and put in a record in a film can. I had imagined the flat-topped summit to be as wide as a football field, but in reality it’s only about 20’ wide. Paul explored an exit to the northwest toward the u/n 2520 flanking our objective (817-213). You could get down to the wide col, but ascending the SE buttress of the objective requires scaling rotten, overhanging junk. This peak (if it is one) can easily be climbed via alp land on the SW.
From the summit of u/n 2600, we descended to the col at its base again. From that point (821-207), we followed a long couloir of loose rock down and west to the alpine a few hundred meters above camp, an effective but not perfect descent route.
Back in camp by 2:20 (1 hr. 20 min. down from summit), we packed up and by 3:00 were under way for the walk out. We re-traced our steps, finding the waterfall portion easier than expected, and reached the truck at 5:10 pm. (2 hrs. 10 min. to hike out; 9 hour 40 min. day).
Perfect weather for the whole trip. At no time did we consider roping up, although we did have a 9 mm, some slings, and some smaller Friends.
U/N 2580 m. 1.75 km. N. of Mohican Mtn. NW slopes. Facile (I,3) U/N 2600 m. 3.4 km. NNE of Mohican Mtn. Via connecting ridge from u/n 2580 m. and south slopes. Facile (II,4). If this peak were climbed directly from camp via the couloir we descended, it would be Facile I,3.
MOHICAN MOUNTAIN 2480m 8136’
Located east of upper Gainer Creek. The south summit is highest.
Map 82K/11 Trout Lake.
North Summit 2480m
The north summit of Mohican Mountain has not been climbed before. There is a wide, deep slot between the summits. A glacier still exists on the east side of the peak.
1. North Ridge. Drive the Gainer Creek road, cross to the east side, and camp south of the confluence of Gainer and Mohican Creeks. Bushwhack up for 2 hours on the south side of Mohican Creek, and then bear north- east into the small south-facing basin at 811-181.
Ascend scree and ledges on the east side of the basin to reach the north ridge of Mohican’s north summit (4 hours from camp) and the summit tower. Then climb two pitches on mostly solid limestone. The first lead (Class 5.2) diagonals up and left for 10 meters onto a long easy ramp, which is followed up and right to the first belay point (50m). The second lead (Class 5.0) continues up the ramp to its end, and then heads straight up over easy ledges to a good belay (50m). From there it is a short walk to the summit (6 hours in all).
The climbing is easy, but sites for protection are scarce. (III,5.2,s).
FA Paul Allen, Kim Kratky, Fred Thiessen, 17/9/2000.
One 50-metre rappel was done to the notch at the tower’s base. Descend the steep Mohican Mine road starting at 807-180 (west of the small basin) and cross Gainer Creek at a ford near the mouth of Culkeen Creek. Follow the road south (log bridge over Bunker Hill Creek) and to the camp.
South Summit 2550m 8366′
The ascent of the south summit required some route finding.
1. Southeast Ridge. The description from July 4, 1951 is meager. The 10-centimetre crack was not found in 2000.
Climb snow gullies from Gainer Creek, and then cross to the Stevens (Cariboo) Creek side (east). The route passes the Mohican Mine.
The southeast ridge becomes sharp and steep. Make a long traverse to the right over a crack about 10 centimetres wide on solid rock. This leads to an easy chimney that ends at the summit ridge. (III,4,s). 4/9/1951.
Go up the Gainer Creek road and cross the bridge to its east side, where the road is for high clearance, four wheel drive, low range vehicles. Drive into a new cut block on the south side of Mohican Creek.
Hike through the cut block (792-166) into timber, staying on a ridge on the south side of Mohican Creek (easy bushwhacking). Reach the alpine amphitheatre west of Mohican (810-171). Ascend to the Mohican-Corner Hill ridge (Corner Hill is south of Mohican), proceed to the base of Mohican and descend on snow to the Stevens Creek side (east).
Traverse over to a couloir in Mohican’s southeast ridge just to the right of a prominent cave (6 m high, with a snow tongue). Climb the couloir (Class 5.4) to reach the southeast ridge; then scramble the ridge to where it steepens.
Here, climb a Class 5.0 pitch featuring a dihedral. A Class 4 pitch follows. The next pitch is the crux on the ridge, a short rotten wall with a notch in it (Class 5.3). The last roped pitch is easy Class 4, then unrope and scramble to the top.
There was no cairn (buried under snow?); no record was left. Time up, 7 hours. The limestone is much more solid than on Mount Templeman, with limited spots for protection or belay anchors.
Descent was made climbing down (few rappel anchors), and on the rotten wall pitch belaying through a sling. Loose stones make rappels inadvisable, but the climb down wasn’t bad at all (1.5 hours).
Continue down the southeast ridge below the access couloir, and exit on ledges to the snowfield near the cave. Stay fairly close to Mohican Creek; don’t be led too far south on the return.
Carry a small rack with stoppers and Friends. Smaller and medium sized Friends would be useful; also large slings. A 50 meter rope was used, and the whole route is exposed, especially the Class 4 sections. Straying from the ridge is inadvisable. (III,5.4,s).
FRA Paul Allen, Kim Kratky, 23/6/2000.
REDCLIFF PEAK 2700m 8858′
Situated 2.5 km northwest of Mt Wagner and 4.5 km south of Mohican Mt
1. North Slopes. Approach from Gainer Creek, past mining claims (old bridge now destroyed near Index Creek). No other details available. FRA Wm. Boulton, Joseph Collins, Carol Ellsworth, Joel Ream, 1965.
2. Northeast Ridge. From the end of the Gainer Creek road on the east bank (792-161), cross Corner Creek and bushwhack on its south bank. Ascend to the north side of the buttress at 805-150. Continue south on alpland into the basin on the north side of Redcliff.
Ascend easy snow to a col northeast of the summit (810-135). Follow the long northeast ridge over easy broken rock with lichen to a snow plateau (heavy snow year) at the base of the steep summit structure.
Then avoid the ridge by climbing the north face (i.e., from the plateau, make a rising traverse west on steep snow for 100 meters, and then head straight up for 75 meters on steeper snow). The route finishes with an awkward traverse right on ice under a big snow mushroom perched on the flat summit ridge. The final climb is on exposed snow above cliffs of the north face.
Then it is an easy walk for 2 to 3 minutes to the double summit. No cairn was found (under snow?) but one was built (record). Ice (III,4,s).
FRA Ross Breakwell, Kim Kratky, 15/7/1999.
A more direct approach would be to ford Gainer Creek southwest of the end of the road (Index Creek) but this looks impossible. (See Route 1.)
3. Southwest Ridge. From logging roads on the north side of Lardeau Creek, gain the southwest ridge by steep bushwhacking. The rock was initially poor but improved above. Stay as close to the ridge as possible. There are two pitches of Class 4 just before the summit, and the final pitch ended in a pleasant face. Six and one half hours round trip. (II,4). FRA Chris Carter, Graham Sumner, 4/8/2010.
MOUNT WAGNER 2700m 8858′
Above the heads of Lardeau and Stevens Creeks, 4.4 kilometers southwest of Similarity Mountain. (The Firey party of 1953 did not climb Mount Wagner; Consult the introduction, access, beginning.
1. East Ridge. From camp at Hall Pass (Hall-Healy), go north- northwest for 2.7 km to an unnamed peak (2730m, 8950 feet at 850-122; mining claims). Descend west staying below the ridge crest to near a small glacier (837-115). Descend to a col and climb the Turn a bergschrund and crevasses by climbing steep ice, and traverse on snow below the east ridge (bring at least one ice screw).
Cross a sharp pinnacle just below the summit; the final east ridge is easy, broken rock, five hours from the pass. Ice, Glacier (III,4,s). FRA August 2, 1950.
UNNAMED 2730m 8957′
Close to Similarity Mountain, 1.3 km southwest of it. Climbed by prospectors; a mining claim encloses the summit.
MOUNT TEMPLEMAN 3050m 10,007′
Map 82K/11 Trout Lake. The highest peak in the district, to date, has only one route. It towers above all the peaks near it.
1. South Ridge. From the road (see introduction), climb to the Similarity-Razor’s Edge col over flat glacier. Go down over the hanging glacier at the col and traverse ice and scree slopes, like soft black coal, to the glacier. Traverse the glacier and climb the bergschrund.
The climb may be approached by passing around the west side of Similarity Mountain to the ridge, but the glacier is faster and easier. One can climb Similarity Mountain and descend its north ridge to the glacier.
The south ridge is very exposed and partly knife-edged, of friable rock covered with coarse grit, with spire-like gendarmes and steep pitches. There are plenty of holds but few are secure. Detours to either side are feasible. Large parties are not advisable as rockfall is inevitable. Take Friends and slings for protection. Two hours from the col to the top. Ice, Glacier (III,5.0,s). 8/1953.
SIMILARITY MOUNTAIN 2860m 9383′
South of Mount Templeman.
1. East Slopes. Start from the end of the Healy Creek road (see intro- duction) and ascend scree and glacier (now nearly melted away) to the Similarity-Razor’s Edge co1. Climb the east slopes from the col. (I,3,s).
FRA Buster and Gerry Brown, Bob Dean, Graham Kenyon, Peter McIver, Howie Ridge, Peter Young, 16/8/1969.
2. North Ridge. The north ridge was descended to the glacier south of Mount Templeman by the KMC party of Route 1. Ascended.
RAZOR’S EDGE 2750m 9022′
Above the head of Healy Creek, northwest of the head of Hall Creek.
1. Northwest Ridge. Ascend ledges south of the Similarity-Razor’s Edge col to the long NW ridge that rises toward the far end. To attain this limestone ridge via the col is easier (see Similarity Mt). There is tremendous exposure on the northeast.
Pass over a false summit and through a couple of notches to where the ridge steepens. Descend 3 meters to a cleft and avoid a short, steep rotten wall by traversing to the left for 10 meters. From the cleft, descend another 2 or 3 meters and then climb diagonally up for about 10 meters to regain the ridge (Class 4), a jagged sweeping curve.
There are two summits of equal height, separated by a notch, and terrific views of Howser Spire in the Bugaboos; 4 hours to the top. (II,4,s). 1/8/1950.
RAZOR’S EDGE (9,020′)
This minor peak is not worth an outing in itself but could be nicely combined with Mt. Templeman or Abbott Pk. for a weekend in the Hall-Healey Pass area. Razor’s Edge, part of the limestone dike that passes through the Badshot Range, presents an awe-inspiring, though rotten, SW face that drops over 3,000′ to the headwaters of Hall Creek. It was first climbed by Kenneth and Pym Karcher in August 1950. Hamish Mutch and I climbed it last Labor Day weekend and suspect that no one had done it in the intervening 45 years.
Did I hear road access again? Yes, that’s it. Now that the Healey Creek road is once more open, you can drive right to the height of land (6,600′) at km. 25. From the Lardeau River road turn off just a few kilometers S. of Gerard and immediately cross the river via a gated bridge (seemingly always unlocked). Follow the 4WD road past such Badshot landmarks as Butler’s Disco and Rick’s Ranch through the pass and about .7 km. beyond to the N. to a point where boulders on the road stop even the most serious driver. Fred likes to reminisce that he and Paul Allen were able to drive right onto the glacier to the N.; the road still does cross the glacier, but you’ll need foot power, a motorcycle, or a mountain bike to get there.
Anyway, follow the road to some mine workings and ascend moraines and snow to the Similarity-Razor’s Edge col (8,700′). Then simply follow the NW ridge of Razor’s Edge, a long rising sweep of limestone, to the summit in 90 min. It’s a class 4 scramble with some exposure on the SW side and a heart-stopping 2,500′ drop off on the NE. There’s a kind of crux when the ridge steepens near the end. From a cleft in the ridge avoid a steep wall of rotten limestone by descending 5-10′ on the left, traversing 30′, and re-gaining the ridge. The rest is easy. Return to the col via ascent route. No rope was used on the approach or mountain.
This peak could easily be combined with a plod up Similarity Mtn. (9,370′), a 25 min. walk up easy snow slopes. Figure on about 7 1/2 hours for both peaks round trip from your vehicle. Some parties may want to carry a rope for Razor’s Edge.
ABBOTT PEAK 2961m 9715′
Abbott Peak is east of Healy Creek, at the heads of Hall and Lake Creeks. It commands an excellent view of the Duncan Valley.
1. FRA 1904, route unknown. Prospectors had probably climbed it before and a mining claim lies on the southwest.
2. Southwest Ridge. From Hall Pass, follow the spur road to a point west of the mountain. Pass south around the ridge west of Abbott, and ascend to the col.
Gain the southwest ridge, which is very sharp and done a cheval. This ridge becomes almost vertical before joining the true summit ridge. The rock is rotten and belay points are scarce.
The summit ridge rises gradually toward the Duncan Valley, and the summit is on the far end. Four hours up from the end of the road. (II,4,s). 6/8/1950.
3. Northwest Glacier, Northwest Face. Approach as for Route 2 on the spur road, and gain the northwest (The FA party went over the pass at the head of Abbott Creek.) Climb loose rock of the northwest face and attain the ridge 100 meters west of the summit. Glacier (II,4,s). 8/1953.
4. North Ridge. Approach as for Routes 2 and 3 to the northwest From the glacier, at least two points on the west face of the north ridge can be ascended to the north ridge, including the low northern end. The north ridge is easy. Glacier (II,4,s).
FRA Rod Beauprie, Janice Isaac, Kim Kratky, Robin Laytham, Robert and David Moisey, David Neudorf, Esther Neufeld, Chris Overton, Howie Ridge, Larry Smith, Liz Stanich, Fred Thiessen (KMC), 20/7/1986.
CAIRN PEAK 2850m 9350′
Map 82K/11 Trout Lake. Cairn Peak is 0.8 km south of Abbott Peak, from where its loose and dangerous north couloir is visible. Almost certainly unclimbed.
MOUNT ALDRIDGE 2670m 8760′
Map 82K/11 Trout Lake. Located between Healy and Lake Creeks. A large lake to its east hangs above the head of Lake Creek.
1. Northeast Ridge. Drive up the Abbott Mine spur road.
From the Abbott Mine site head up a tongue of snow and diagonal off, up and right, on scree to a rib above the head of Sierra Creek. Follow an old mining road around the basin to a pass at about 892-068 (tarn and mine diggings). Start the northeast ridge from this point, which begins with easy scrambling.
Descend, and at a wide face below a platform circle it (at 15 meters below the platform) to the left (east) and descend to a notch. To reach this notch, turn difficulties on the left and go down gritty slabs and scree.
Ascend a big buttress (or tower) in the notch directly, using a big flake to work one’s way up a cleft. Scramble to the next high point and descend to the second major notch. Gain the second notch by going down a tricky flake and a short exposed gully on the left, followed by steep, solid ribs and slabs (Class 4).
From this notch, descend a gully of loose scree to the right (west) of the ridge, traverse and regain the ridge on poor quality rock.
Continue on solid rock, with ups and downs, to the top, about 5 hours up. (III,4,s).
FRA Kim Kratky, Hamish Mutch, 2/9/1995.
I have some doubts about including our route on this peak as a recommended one. Hamish and I looked at Aldridge from the summit of Similarity and thought it to be laughable because of its unimpressive profile and low elevation. Nevertheless, it surprised us by offering a moderately challenging series of ups and downs requiring almost 9 hours of our time.
Aldridge is located SW of Mt. Abbott and E. of the headwaters of Lake Creek. Access is again easy. At km. 24.5 on the Healey Creek road, turn E. and S. onto the Abbott Mine road. This can be driven for about 2.5 km. From this point, walk to the Abbott Mine site (20-30 min.), ascend an obvious snow tongue to the E., and continue R or S. on scree and moraine until you reach the upper Sierra Creek basin. Here you will find a disused road leading to a col at the base of Aldridge’s NE ridge (891-068); the picturesque tarn and lunar landscape are arresting.
Here the climb begins. Start the NE ridge with easy scrambling which leads to a big platform. Pass the platform on the L. or E., descending to a notch via gritty slabs and scree. From the notch, ascend a big buttress or tower directly, using a large flake to work up a cleft and regain the ridge. Continue scrambling to the next high point and descend to the second major notch. Gain the second notch by going down a tricky flake and a short, exposed gully on the L, followed by steep, solid ribs and slabs (Class 4). From this notch, descend a gully of loose scree to the R. or W. of the ridge, traverse, and regain the ridge on poor quality rock Continue on solid rock, with ups and downs, to the top, about 5 hrs. up. Thanks to Earle Whipple for helping me re-work this portion of the description.
The big attraction of Aldridge was that we thought it was unclimbed; and indeed we seem to have made the first ascent, as we found no cairn on the summit. However, approaches from “Aldridge Lakes” to the E. of the peak would be an easy walk-up via the E. and S. ridges. Since there has been so much mining activity in the area it’s possible the peak had been climbed–but not, we think, by the NE ridge. Aldridge provides excellent views of the Lake Creek canyon and of a desolate landscape of alps dotted by lakes stretching out to the S.
Our party returned to the truck via the ascent route in 3 1/4 hrs., although descending to the lakes via the S. and E. would be dead easy. No ice axe was needed beyond the snow slopes above the mine for this trip in September, and we left the rope in the truck. Once again, some parties may want a rope for sections of the NE ridge.
All map references are to 82K/11E Trout Lake, 1:50,000 scale, which Fred says is no longer available. Alternatively, try 82K/NW Beaton, 1:100,000 scale.
SUMMARY–MT. ALDRIDGE (8,650′) NE ridge (III,4,s) Hamish Mutch, Kim Kratky, Sept. 2, 1995. From Abbott Mine workings, ascend snow tongue to E., then proceed S. into headwaters of Sierra Creek, joining a mining road to reach col at 892-068. Ascend ridge to S. and follow over many false summits, notches, and cols. Ascent: 5 hrs. Descent: 3 1/4 hrs.
There are still unclimbed, named peaks in the area, specifically Cairn Pk., a 9,350′ heap of limestone rubbish directly S. of Abbott Pk. In 1987 Howie Ridge, Janice Isaac, and I had an attempt on this from the Abbott-Cairn col–route not recommended because of stone fall. The long S. ridge of Cairn Pk. is ably defended by two, presumably rotten, gendarmes of formidable aspect. Approaches from the E. might be more practical but would require much overland travel and gain and loss of elevation.
Approaches from the E. might be more practical but would require much overland travel and gain and loss of elevation.
Descend a gully of loose scree to the R. or W. of the ridge, traverse, and regain the ridge on poor quality rock.
Mount Aldridge, 82K/11 September 11-13
This peak is located approximately 13 kms northeast of the ghost town of Gerrard at the south end of Trout Lake. Access to the area is limited to ATV transport up the Healy Creek Road for a distance of 25 kms. A spur road leads to the mine workings of the Abbott property (elevation 6,900 ft.). From here the hiking distance south to a lake near the headwaters of Lake Creek and at the base of Mount Aldridge is about 6 kms. The best route to the summit is the arc shaped ridge from the south end of the lake and then in a northwesterly and northerly direction. Only the last 200 feet (60 meters) is a scramble. Weather was a factor when we experienced a blizzard at 8,300 feet. Conditions improved and our second attempt was successful in building a cairn and placing a KMC register on the summit at GPS elevation 8,802 feet (2,683 meters). We saw a goat on the ridge and a grizzly searching for marmots at the lake.