MOUNT JOHN CARTER 2610m 8563′
Mount John Carter is 3.2 kilometres northwest of Gibson Lake, north of Outlook Mountain, northeast of Sunset Mountain, and can be easily skied starting from a point near Kokanee Pass. FA unknown.
1. Northeast Ridge, North Ridge. Leave the Kokanee Lake trail at the outlet of Kokanee Lake. Traverse left and a little up, through forest to a small bowl, and ascend a stream bed in steep heather to a gently-rising rounded rock rib of good granite above. Ascend up and right on the rib, pass around a corner and ascend snow slopes to the northeast ridge of the small summit northeast of the objective. Continue easily to the top on the north ridge. (II,2,s).
FRA Earle R. Whipple, 14/7/1990
At the outhouse on the trail, one can ascend to the east shoulder of Mount John Carter.
2. Northwest Slopes. Start on the Kokanee Lake side of Kokanee Pass. Some route finding is necessary up a tongue of forest which breaks the cliffs above the valley. Then cross a long flat area, going south, and climb the northwest slopes.
This route is probably better with snow cover. (II,2,s).
FRA Earle R. Whipple, July 14, 1990. (Done on the descent)
Alternately, ascend from Glory Basin.
3. South Ridge. Approach by Route 1 or 2. When at a flatter area at old mine workings, traverse south on the west side of the ridge to the Un. 2570m-John Carter
The south ridge is Class 4 on big blocks of granite with some exposure. (II,4,s).
FRA Nina and Steven Horvath, 1994.