HAMPSHIRE MOUNTAIN 2640m 8661′
Located above Enterprise Creek on Enterprise Ridge, in the north-western corner of Kokanee Glacier park.
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Map: 82F/14 Slocan
1. West From camp in Blue Grouse Basin (introduction, access, Enterprise Creek), ascend to the cirque between Insect Peak and Hampshire Mountain and easily reach the col between the peaks. Climb the west ridge using rib and gully systems well below the crest of the ridge, and its gendarmes, on the south side. (A wall blocks the upper ridge.) At the top, cross a gully and ascend the southeast slopes to the summit.
Hampshire and Retallack were traversed. (III,3,s).
2/8/1965(a).
After skirting SE around the big block summit and crossing several ridges and gullies, losing altitude, one can avoid the last ridge by climbing a sharp ridge with two Class 4 moves (up a little crack and over the rib edge) and then scrambling to the W ridge just at the top.
For the descent, see Route 3.
Two large gendarmes were climbed by Howie Ridge and Kim Kratky before 1987. Approach from the south; good rock, Class 4.
2. Southeast Ridge. The southeast ridge was descended en route to Mount Retallack. As on the west ridge, stay well below the ridge crest on the south side. (III,3,s).
August 2, 1965(a).
Variation: Approach the southeast ridge from the north. From Blue Grouse Basin, ascend to the cirque between Hampshire Mountain and Insect Peak. Go over the col north of Hampshire Mountain and contour the next basin, pass over rib and gully systems, and then climb to the southeast ridge (Class 4).
Descend, and climb the southeast ridge by staying well below the ridge crest.
FRA Bob Dean, Chris Overton, Ian Pond, David Potkins, Peter Wood, 18/8/1985.
3. North Face. Climb the north face, starting from the middle of the face between the northeast ridge and the rib (buttress) that splits the north side of the mountain. There is some loose
Gain the rib via a messy gully left of the rib; the rib has solid rock. Stay on the right side of the rib (Class 4; Class 2-3 gullies on either side).
After about 70 meters, kick steps across snow to more firm rock on the top end. Above the snow, there is a series of big blocks and gendarmes on the north face (Class 4, a few Class 5 moves). Climbing snow next to a cornice leads to the top.
There are about 160 meters of good Class 4 rock that is never exposed, and some wet sections. Five hours from the road. (III,5.3,s).
FA Doug Brown, Sandra McGuinness, 14/7/2005.
Descent by Route 1, which is not easy to find. Descend far down the south face before traversing west to the Hampshire-Insect Peak col (route- finding problems). (Start down a gully, then go left, east, out of the gully, east of the easterly buttress of the gully, and down a short distance before going west.) At a rib that would require a long descent, climb up 80 meters.