MOUNT MCHARDY 2760m 9055′
The south buttress of Cooper Pass, at the head of Cooper and Keen Creeks.
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Time: 5 hours up, 3.5 hours down
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Map: 82K/3 Rosebery
1. South Ridge. Go up the Kane Creek road, and across a makeshift bridge over the creek. Ascend the trail up Marten Creek on its north side (unmarked on the map) and camp at the pass and lake between Marten Mountain and Mount Dolly Varden,
Consult the introduction (access) for the Hicks Creek road, which is better.
Descend 250 meters in a steep snow gully north of the pass, and cross a big bowl under the north face of Marten. On the south ridge of McHardy, there are several exposed moves over very loose blocks of shale. A fixed rope was run out to secure the passage over this section. The ridge is not steep.
Ascent 5 hours, descent 3.5 hours. (III,4,s).
FRA Peter McIver, Beverly and Robert Mill, Gunther Offerman, Pat Taddy, Fred Thiessen, Elena Underhill, Miles White, 14/7/1974.
UNNAMED 2790m 9,154′
Located 1.2 kilometres southeast of Mount McHardy; a sharp, imposing peak.
1. Southeast Face. The southeast face is of firm rock. Good climb, Class 3 to 4. Glacier (II,4,s). 6/8/1974(b).