MOUNT COOPER 3094m 10,151′
The highest summit of the group is the highest of the southernmost Selkirks. The west summit is the highest, and the mountain is made of granite. It was also one of the most isolated peaks in the Selkirks before the logging roads.
Difficulty: D2 very challenging
Elevation gain:
Key elevations:
Distance:
Time: 5-6 days
Season:
Assess:
Map: 82K/3 Rosebery.
WEST SUMMIT 3089m
1. The first ascent of Mount Cooper was undoubtedly by prospectors. There was mining activity near the summit (!), probably near the turn of the century. The granitic rocks of Mount Cooper make it a good choice to look for ores, near the top (?) of the intrusion.
The most likely route was probably determined by the access which was available at the time, and one of the least technical difficulties. Candidates would be on Route 2, the easiest route on the south side, the south face. Difficulties with the glaciers and bergschrunds then would have been greater than today, before the intense modern retreat.
2. Northeast Glacier, North Ridge.
At present, one can drive up the John Creek Forest Service Road from the Lardeau River valley to Meadow Mountain and a point above McKian Creek, and descend nearly 1200 meters to McKian Creek on a switchback road for four-wheel drive vehicles in low range, if the road is not washed out.
Go downstream to Spokane Creek, cross McKian Creek where possible (remember that stream crossings are dangerous), and bushwhack up Spokane Creek to camp.
Ascend Spokane Glacier (northeast glacier) near its north edge, and head south on snow to the summit, which is offset to the east. Glacier (IV, 4,s). 10/8/1962.
The ascent was a five-day trip because of the arduous access. The route was skied during the Easter weekend of 1982.
3. Northeast Ridge, Northwest
The approach and climb are similar to Route 6, but the party made two rappels from the ridge, in fog, to the northwest glacier. They ascended the northwest glacier to the col between it and Spokane Glacier about 150 meters below the summit. The summit was easily gained from there after tenting on the col.
The descent was by Spokane Glacier, a 6-day trip. This glacier was quite broken up at the time. Ice, Glacier (IV,4,A0,s).
FRA Robert Jahn, Alan and David Polster, 5/8/1968. At the time of the climb, all three were 14 to 16 years of age!
4. South Face. Start from a helicopter camp at tree line southeast of Mount Stubbs (now in Goat Range Provincial Park). Contour northeast around the flank of a subsidiary summit and ascend a pocket glacier to the southwest base of the south face. Angle up and east on the face (Class 3 to 4, on bad rock) for 300 meters to the more gentle summit ridge. Two pitches on snow lead to the top. Glacier (III,4,s). 5/8/1974(b).
Approach: From Whitewater Pass, descend to and cross Kane Creek, and continue north to a high col below Un. 2790m. From there, descend on a traverse to camp. (PC: ND). This was the exit route in 1974. It is outmoded by the road up Kane Creek and the Hicks Creek road (Alps Alturas trail; see introduction). Consult the route in the south couloir, and Mount McHardy Route 1.
5. South Approach as for Mount McHardy, Route 1. Descend to a small lake north of Marten Mountain on steep snow. Climb 760 meters on steep terrain over the south ridge of Mount McHardy, and descend to Cooper Pass (Stubbs-McHardy) and camp.
Traverse the east side of Mount Stubbs to the glacier on the south slope of Mount Cooper. Ascend the obvious snow and rock couloir from the bottom to the top. Glacier (III,4,s).
FRA Peter McIver, Fred Thiessen, 9/1980.
6. North Ridge. Approach as for Route 2, descend the logging road to McKian Creek but go upstream on McKian Creek. Proceed to a small lake at the head of the next large creek north of Spokane Creek, using the ridge north of the creek.
Attain the ridge northeast of Mount Cooper and follow it to the north ridge. Bivouac on the first major rocky knoll on flat slabs at 2440 meters (8000 feet).
The climb on the north ridge is over numerous pinnacles; 9 hours return to the bivouac. The group also ascended the east summit from the west summit. Glacier (III,4,s).
FRA Ian Bult, Leo Jansma, Paul Jorgenson, 19/7/1984.
EAST SUMMIT 3030m 9941′
Consult Route 6 of the west summit.
Two routes to Mt. Cooper from the south: the first over the two passes to the left (from the Alps Alturas trail), the second over the pass just east of Un. 2790. Essentially all of this area is in the Goat Range Prov. Park. The boundary is on the west and south ridges of Marten Mt.
UNNAMED 2640m
Northwest of Mount Cooper, north of Rossland Creek; and east of two lakes.
West Unnamed 2640m was traversed from camp at 2170 meters (7100 feet) between two lakes during an attempt on Mount Cooper. There are three high points on the ridge and possibly all were climbed. (I,3,s).
FRA Wm. Buckingham, John Noxon, Robert West, 6/1958.
The granite tooth just northwest of Mount Cooper was not climbed.