SAN MARINO.
Of the world’s 196 independent countries, San Marino is the fifth smallest, and the most curious. A sole survivor of Italy’s once powerful city-state network, the landlocked micronation clung on well after the more powerful kingdoms of Genoa and Venice folded. The world’s oldest surviving sovereign state and the oldest republic (since 301 AD), it has one of the world’s highest per capita GDPs.
Measuring 61 sq. km, it has nine municipalities each with its town. The largest is Dogana, but everyone skips it on the way to 750m-high Monte Titano, a sheer white cliff on the west with the town cascading down the east side. It was added to Unesco in 2008. Despite its age, it is known for its curious lack of intimacy and soul. Its highlights are its spectacular views, Unesco-listed historical center, and several bizarre museums (vampires, torture, wax dummies, and strange facts).
The hourly changing of the guard in Plazza della Libertà is popular.
I had an interesting drive from Urbino, over two mountain towns, and then many switchbacks up to Città di San Marino. The one parking lot was full and I parked on a small residential street with a threat of towing at the bottom of several stairs.
Climb many stairs up to a great viewpoint down to Rimini and the coast. Then climb up to the three towers on the edge of the cliff.
1. Rocco o Guaita (First tower). The oldest and largest of San Marino’s castles, it dates from the 11th century and was used as a prison as recently as 1975, with torture common. Interesting prisoner graffiti covers the wall of the cells. San Marino claims to be the first country to ban capital punishment in the 1820s.
2. Cesta o Fratta (Second Tower). Dominating the skyline and offering superb views towards the coast, the castle dates from the 13th century sitting on top of Monte Titano.
3. Montale (Third Tower). I didn’t go to this one.
Museo di Stato. This is San Marino’s best museum displaying art, history, furniture, and culture.
Trying to find this museum or anything else from the supplied map was difficult. The roads switch back repetitively in a confusing pattern down the mountain past expensive jewelry stores, knickknack stores, and restaurants. Everything about this place smells of money. Buy gas here – it was the cheapest in all of southern Europe at 1.26 € per litre.