GIANT’S KNEECAP

GIANT’S KNEECAP   2760m   9055′
Giant’s Kneecap is a spur into the glacier, north of Esmeralda Peak. It is prominent from the Keyhole. The south ridge is a scramble on good rock.

Difficulty:
Elevation gain:
Key elevations:
Distance:
Time:
Season: All year round 
Access: Easy from Slocan Chief Cabin. A descent on glacier from Keyhole. 
Map: 82F/14 Slocan 

Access from Slocan Chief Cabin or via Keyhole 

1. West Face, South Ridge. The south end of the west face is easy to approach from The Keyhole (see above and introduction, access, ‘From Nelson via Kokanee Creek’) over snow above the main part of Kokanee Use either side of the south ridge in places, and the climb is a short scramble. Glacier (I,3,s). FA unknown. (ERW)

2. North Ridge. Approach from the north up Keen Creek (see introduction). The north ridge rises out of the ice of Kokanee Glacier and is an “exacting climb”. Time on the ridge, 1.5 hours. The difficulty rating, below, is a guess.
The glacier is best approached from the lateral moraine between The Battleship and the Giant’s Kneecap. Glacier (III,5.0,s).
FRA Richard Wareing, Parker Williams, August 29, 1959. 

3. West The first ascent party approached from The Battleship to the west face almost directly below the south summit (which appears to be the highest point from below). The route is to the left (north) of a prominent inside corner which cuts the face to the right (south) of the south summit. Ascend through a grey section of rock via cracks leading first slightly left, then back right onto the yellow slabs. From here, ascend the slabs to the summit always keeping left of the inside corner and right of what appear to be loose blocks. Traverse along the ridge to the true summit (north). An enjoyable route. Glacier (II,5.0,s).
FRA Gordon Coots, Mike Wisnicki, 8/1966.