MARTEN MOUNTAIN

MARTEN MOUNTAIN   2760m    9055′
South of Mount McHardy and two km east of Mount Dolly Varden. It is a photogenic peak.

1. Southeast Ridge. See the introduction for the Hicks Creek road (or Mount McHardy) for access. 
From near the lake between Dolly Varden and Marten Mountain (at the head of Marten Creek), ascend to the headwall of the extinct Marten Glacier, and then climb the easy rock of the southeast ridge, two hours from the lake. There is a knife-edged section of the southeast ridge (for four meters, by climbing astride). (II,3,s).
FRA Art Maki, Stephen Simpson, 1958.

2. Southwest Ridge. See the introduction for access on the Hicks Creek road, which is preferable. The party approached as for Mount McHardy, Route 1 (Kane Creek) to climb Inverness, Marten and Dolly
From near the lake of Route 1, climb steep snow; the southwest ridge is good scrambling with a bit of exposure, and steep scree leads to the top. (II,3,s). 24/7/1969.