Austria – Salzburg, Carinthia (Klagenfurt, Villach) September 22, 2019
HOHE TAUERN NATIONAL PARK
1,856km2, it extends across 3 Austrian provinces – Carinthia, Salzburg and Tyrol.
The main visitor center is in Mittersill.
Gerlos Alpine Road. After climbing up from Wiesing east on Highway 165, pass nice mountains and lakes, many ski hills and arrive at a pass, then the road, the Gerlos Alpenstrasse, is private and tolled (€9.50). Arrive at a marvelous viewpoint with great views to all the peaks and valleys below.
Many road tours are in this area including one with views down to Slovenia and Italy.
Krimml Waterfalls. Falling 380m over 3 cascades, it is the highest waterfall in Europe (they also say the 5th highest in the world but I don’t think that is true). Probably the best view (and the only one where the entire waterfall can be seen) is from the above viewpoint just after the toll booth. There is an upper cascade then a flat section followed by at least 3 more cascades to the bottom one.
Descend the many switchbacks with two more viewpoints, the best vantage points for the lower set of cascades. There is a 4km walk along the falls with 11 viewpoints.
This is a popular biking area – many seem to have e assisted bikes.
Visitors Center, Mittersill. Has information plus a “museum” with 10 nature rooms that show all the areas in the park. €10
National Park Sommecard. This card gives access to all the
cable cars in the region, swimming pools, museums, free hiking taxis (Durnbach Valley, slide path Neukirchen, Muhlbach Valley, Habach Valley and Mur Valley) plus free access to both the Gerlos and Groβglockner High Alpine Roads (42€ value).
While I was at the National Park headquarters in Mittersill, the locals had a parade that marched through, all dressed in traditional dress of brown waist coasts and black top hats, women in long black dresses with aprons, men with leather pants, a band, a horse and cart, many older women in traditional clothing (long black dresses, aprons and jaunty black caps), horses (cracked long white whips), many with traditional hiking gear and amazing packs, townspeople, and more horses They stopped right beside me so I had a front row seat. Then everyone went into a giant tent full of tables and ate together €9.50.
Grossglockner High Alpine Road (Bruck-Heiligenblut). €32.50. The 48km road is the most famous alpine road in Austria. Climb 2,571m over 15 long switchbacks to the top of the pass, well into the alpine. There are many cyclists and motorcyclists and fewer tourists at this time of the year. The road leads to Austria’s tallest mountain, has 36 hairpin turns in all with a top elevation of 2571m at Edelweiss-Spitze with a panoramic view of over 30 peaks and ends at the longest glacier in the east Alps, the Pasterze.
Mountains very similar to much of the Canadian Rockies, small remnant glaciers under every peak, no fresh snow.
VILLACH
Faaker-See-Insel. This small island has the only island hotel in Austria accessible by boat from the Insel Hotel dock.
Landskron Castle. This medieval hill castle NE of Villach dates from the early 14th century. It was rebuilt by the Carinthian and Hapsburg family, sold to the Khevenhuller family in 1542 and rebuilt in lavish Renaissance style. After 1648, it was allowed to decay, a 1812 fire destroyed it, it was not rebuilt and fell into ruins. A restaurant is all the exists inside now.
KLAGENFURT
Klagenfurt Cathedral. A single nave church with 3 large chapels per side, it has great murals on the ceiling, an ornate gilt pulpit, altar and altars in the side chapels – Rococo? It has a very tall bell tower with a multi-lobed copper spire.
Hochosterwitz Castle. Tentative WHS (01/08/1994). Built on a limestone rock that rises 150m above the valley, it was first mentioned in 860 and was a refuge for the local population in the 11th and 12th century Turkish invasion. It was rebuilt in the mid 1500s and has been owned by the same Khevehhuller family since. It is an outstanding example of a medieval fortress. The winding access is blocked by 14 gates and opens up at an armory yard in front of the main castle. It was impregnable as the enemy had to conquer gate by gate while being attacked from all sides. It also has a “fools stairs” access that climbs the steep, rocky west slope carved out of the rock. Walk the 620m-long pathway through the 14 gates, visit the large square tower, 15m-deep well, 1673 chapel with beautiful frescos and arsenal museum are the main attractions in the castle.
It is about 7kms east of Sankt Veit and can be seen for up to 30kms away on a clear day.
Cathedral of Gurk. Tentative WHS (01/08/1994).
This church is the center of the pilgrimage trail of St Hemma. First described in 1607, it took place on the 4th Friday after Easter with up to 1000 pilgrims walking from Shifja Lake to Gurk to visit the grave St Hemma in the cathedral crypt. There are 800kms of paths originating like a star out from Gurk – 2 in Slovenia and 6 in Austria.
The church has 3 naves and one of the most grand, totally gilt altars I have seen for some time. It is covered with large statues (with brown faces) and cherubs. The walls have several faded murals and 3 lovely, painted bas-reliefs about St Hemma.
GO TO Austria – Burgenland, Styria (Graz, Eisenstadt)
I returned to this region on September 25 from Vienna via Hallstat. The drive from Hallstat went through dramatic limestone mountains – rugged, steep walls and narrow valleys.
Altmünster am Traunsee. On the lake just after Gumenden, this is a small beach.
Gollinger Wasserfall. This is a 76m high waterfall that spreads out to form a veil before falling into the pool. It is a 10-minute walk from the entrance. A trail leads from below the falls to a viewpoint and 2 bridges to reach the cave/source of the waterfall in the karst. €3
SALZBURG
Literally “Salt Fortress” is the fourth-largest city in Austria.
Its historic centre is renowned for its Baroque architecture and is one of the best-preserved city centres north of the Alps, with 27 churches. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. The city has three universities and a large population of students. Tourists visit Salzburg to tour the historic centre and the scenic Alpine surroundings. Salzburg was the birthplace of the 18th-century composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
History.
Antiquity to the High Middle Ages. Traces of human settlements dating to the Neolithic Age. The first settlements in Salzburg continuous with the present were the Celts around the 5th century BC.
Around 15 BC the Roman Empire merged the settlements into one city called “Juvavum”. After the Norican frontier’s collapse, Juvavum declined so sharply that by the late 7th century it nearly became a ruin.
The 8th-century Saint Rupert is credited with the city’s rebirth when he built the basilica.
The name Salzburg means “Salt Castle”. The name derives from the barges carrying salt on the River Salzach, which were subject to a toll in the 8th century.
Independence from Bavaria was secured in the late 14th century. As the Reformation movement gained steam in the German Peasants’ War, it was besieged for three months in 1525. Independence led to an increase in wealth and prosperity. In the 17th century that Italian architects rebuilt the city centre as it is today along with many palaces.
Modern era. In 1731, all Protestant citizens were told to recant their non-Catholic beliefs. 21,475 citizens refused and were expelled from Salzburg. Most went to East Prussia and the rest to other Protestant states in Europe and the British colonies in America.
In 1805, Salzburg was annexed to the Austrian Empire. Following World War I and the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Salzburg, it became part of the new German Austria.
In WW II 1938, it was annexed by the Nazis and Jewish citizens and other minorities were arrested and deported to concentration camps. The synagogue was destroyed. POW camps for prisoners from the Soviet Union and other enemy nations were organized in the city. A Romani camp was built. Allied bombing destroyed 7,600 houses and killed 550 inhabitants. Fifteen air strikes destroyed 46 percent of the city’s buildings including the town’s bridges and the dome of the cathedral, but much of its Baroque architecture remained intact. As a result, Salzburg is one of the few remaining examples of a town of its style.
ORF Landesstudio. In the NM “Modern Architecture Buildings” series, this is the building of Radio Salzburg. It has 3 parts: a central round area with couches and 5 TV screens, a large 2-story rectangular building with two smaller additions including a large radio transmission tower and metal walk and on the right a one-story office complex.
Historic Centre of the City of Salzburg. A World Heritage Site,
Hohensalzburg Fortress. Built in 1077, it was greatly expanded during the following centuries.
Salzburg Cathedral. This seventeenth-century RC Baroque cathedral is dedicated to Saint Rupert and Saint Vergilius. Saint Rupert founded the church in 774 on the remnants of a Roman town, the cathedral was rebuilt in 1181 after a fire. In the seventeenth century, the cathedral was completely rebuilt in the Baroque style under Prince-Bishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau to its present appearance. Salzburg Cathedral still contains the baptismal font in which composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was baptized.
Salzburg Cathedral is fronted by the Domplatz, accessed by three open arcade arches that unite the cathedral with the Salzburg Residenz and St. Peter’s Abbey to form a unique enclosed square measuring 101 meters long and 69 meters wide, with walls 81 meters high.
The Domplatz is dominated by the Maria Immaculata (Immaculate Mary) column built in 1771. It depicts the Virgin Mary enthroned on a mountain of clouds made of Untersberg marble and a globe. The central Marian figure is surrounded on four sides by allegoric figures representing angels, the devil, wisdom, and the Church.
The body of the church is made of dark grey stone with a façade of bright marble and framed by two towers and topped by a curved gable. The portals are flanked by four large sculpted figures representing the diocesean and cathedral patrons.
Stiftskeller St. Peter. This former monastery encloses a square with the church on the east side and the restaurant in the corner next to it.
St. Peter Stiftskeller Restaurant, In the NM “Hospitality Legends” series
Natural Science Faculty. In the NM “Modern Architecture Building” series, a modern glass front topped with a thick reinforced concrete roof fronts the natural science museum in the 5-story building behind.
Hotel zur Blauen Gans (Blue Goose Hotel). In the NM “Hospitality Legends” series, this is a 5-story art hotel accessible via the streets on both sides.
Hotel Stein. Also in the Hospitality Legends series, this 5-story hotel sits on the river across from the old town.
Salzbutg Congress (Convention Center). In the NM “Modern Architecture” series, this 5 story building has an all clear glass façade.
Heizkraftwerk Mitte. In the NM “Modern Architecture Building” series, this power station is a windowless reinforced concrete structure. The bottom is 100m long and in 3 high steps and then has a very high tower that rises off the SE corner.
NOMAD MANIA Austria – Salzburg, Carinthia (Klagenfurt, Villach)
World Heritage Sites
Hallstatt-Dachstein / Salzkammergut Cultural Landscape
Historic Centre of the City of Salzburg
Prehistoric Pile dwellings around the Alps
Tentative WHS
Cathedral of Gurk (01/08/1994)
Great Spas of Europe (11/07/2014)
Großglockner High Alpine Road / Großglockner Hochalpenstraße (12/01/2016)
Hochosterwitz Castle (01/08/1994)
National Park “Hohe Tauern” (11/02/2003)
Sights
Eisriesenwelt
Klagenfurt Alter Platz and Renaissance buildings
St. Paul’s Abbey, Lavanttal
Zell am See-Kaprun
Islands: Faaker-See-Insel
Borders
Austria (river/lake border)
Austria-Germany
Austria-Italy
Austria-Slovenia
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars
Enns Valley Railway (Salzburg-Styria)
Glacial Aerial Tramway Kaprun III
Pinzgauer Lokalbahn
Railjet
Saalbach Cable Cars
Salzburg-Tyrol Railway (Salzburg to Innsbruck via Bischofshofen)
Tauern Railway
Untersbergbahn Cable Car
Zell am See – Schmittenhöhe
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels: Grossglockner High Alpine Road (Bruck-Heiligenblut)
Museums
Metnitz: Death Dance Museum
Nötsch im Gailtal: Museum des Nötscher Kreises
Seeboden: Bonsaimuseum
Castles, Palaces, Forts
Hochosterwitz: Hochosterwitz Castle
Mauterndorf: Mauterndorf Castle
Saalfelden: Ritzen Castle
Werfen: Hohenwerfen Castle
Religious Temples: Gurk: Gurk Cathedral
Modern Architecture Buildings: Lake Ossiach: Steinhaus
World of Nature: Hohe Tauern
Festivals
Electric Love
Rave on Snow
Salzburg Festival
Whitsun Festival
World Bodypainting Festival
Entertainment/Things to do: Treffen: Elli Riehl Doll World
Zoos: St. Primus: Vogelpark Turnersee
Beaches
Altmünster am Traunsee
Fuschlsee
Waterfalls
Gollinger Wasserfall
Krimml Waterfalls
Caves
Lamprechtsofen
Werfen: Eisriesenwelt Ice Cave
Ski Resorts
Flachau
Kaprun
Nassfeld
Obertauern
Saalbach-Hinterglemm
Zell am See
Open-Air Museums
Maria Saal: Carinthian open-air museum Maria Saal
Rosegg: Celtic World in Frög
Vehicle Museums
Gmünd: Porsche Automuseum Helmut Pfeifhofer
Kaprun: Vötters Fahrzeugmuseum
Koppl: Manro Classic Auto & Musik Museum
Mattsee: fahr(T)raum
Bizzarium: Winklern: Elli Riehl Doll World
European Cities
KLAGENFURT
Airports: Klagenfurt (KLU)
Museums
Eboard Museum
Kinomuseum Klagenfurt
Museum of Modern Art
House Museums/Plantations: Robert Musil Literature Museum
Religious Temples: Klagenfurt Cathedral
Theme Parks: Klagenfurt: Minimundus
SALZBURG World Cities and Popular Towns
World Heritage Sites: Historic Centre of the City of Salzburg
Airports: Salzburg (SZG)
Museums
DomQuartier Salzburg – Mehr als ein Museum
Folklore Museum
FOTOHOF
Hangar-7
Haus der Natur Salzburg
Museum der Moderne
Panorama Museum
Salzburg Museum
Stiegl-Brauwelt
House Museums/Plantations: Mozart’s Birthplace
Castles, Palaces, Forts
Fortress Hohensalzburg
Hellbrunn Castle
Mirabell Palace
Salzburg Residenz
Religious Temples: Salzburg Cathedral
Modern Architecture Buildings
Convention Center
Heizkraftwerk Mitte
Natural Science Faculty
ORF Landesstudio Salzburg
Hospitality Legends
Hotel Stein
Hotel zur Blauen Gans
St. Peter Stiftskeller Restaurant
Entertainment/Things to do: Panorama Museum
Zoos: Salzburg Zoo
Markets: Schrannenmarkt
Open-Air Museums: Salzburger Freilichtmuseum
VILLACH
Museums: Villach Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Landskron Castle
Vehicle Museums: Villach: Auto Museum TAF-TIMER – Back to the Future
Villages and Small Towns
Altenmarkt im Pongau
Bad Gastein
Grossarl
Heiligenblut
Millstatt am See
Oberdorf bei Salzburg
Radstadt
Sankt Gilgen
Zell am See