Sweden – Svealand (Stockholm, Örebro, Karlstad) September 10, 17-18, 2018, July 28-31, 2019
NYKÖPING. This small city has Sormlands Museum, the country museum and Nyköping Slott, parts of which date to 1180 with multiple additions with the last in 1611 when it was a Renaissance castle. It is famous for the “Nyköping Banquet” when King Birger imprisoned his two brothers and let them starve to death in the dungeon. A fire devastated the town and castle in both 1665 and 1719, and it was used as a jail, grain silo, poorhouse and reform school. It was all reconstructed in the 20th century and is a hodgepodge of construction styles. Guided tours of the King’s Tower occur before August 15th. Free
Sormslands Museum. County Museum
Gripsholme Slott. In the small town of Mariesfred, this great castle is known as Gustav Vasa’s Castle built in the 1500s. it has art and furniture from then and a preserved 18th century theatre. The Griffin Tower is a magnificent round tower that dominates the courtyard and houses the National Portrait Gallery. Two wonderful cannon captured in wars with Russia in 1581 and 1612 grace the courtyard, Two runestones sit outside – one says “Feed the eagle” (kill the enemy). Mariesfred supposedly has Sweden’s most beautiful street, Gyllenhjelsgaten. NOK130
Eskilatuna. In the NM “European City” series, this is a hard one to understand as it is neither particularly pretty or with much that is noteworthy. It was an industrial city noted for the Rademacher Forges that produced the first Swedish tractor.
Strömesholm Slott. Another of the 10 Swedish Royal Palaces, it was built in 1556 and decorated by Karl X Gustav’s wife who died 55 years after him. What else does one do with limitless funds but decorate a castle. The Audience Hall has pictures of the king’s horses. An infantry riding school occupied the palace until 1960 but didn’t inhabit the royal apartments. NOK100
Engelsberg Bruk (Iron Works). Declared in 1993, this must be the weirdest UNESCO World Heritage Site,. It is owned by a private Swedish company (Nordsjevnan ab) that owns shopping malls and restaurants) and has minimized the WHS in the attempt to create a “private” park. Beside the parking lot are two signs that describe the nature of the site and a lane leading past some of the buildings with small signs on some of them, but anything worth seeing is private. I talked to a local who was irritated at the whole thing.
In the early Middle Ages, farmers mined iron here because of its superior grade of iron ore. Engelsberg Iron Works was founded here in 1681 because of the river that provided a source of power, the heavy iron ore was not far away (Norberg mines was a major source) and the local forest provided the charcoal needed for the blast furnace, one of the few preserved earth and timber clad furnaces remaining in the world. It used the efficient Wallonian method of producing malleable iron from pig iron introduced by immigrants to the area that arrived in the 17th century. This was Sweden’s “Age of Greatness” from 1611-1718 and Sweden was one of the world’s largest iron producers.
The iron was used for nails, horseshoes, tools, implements and cannon and was exported throughout Sweden but also to many countries in Europe. The hammer forge, ore crusher, blowers and hammers are all in working order. This was a complete iron works with buildings and technical equipment dating from the 17th century. The iron works closed in 1919.
Buildings still present are the ore weighing shed, granary, inspectors building and 1750 manor house (the last two are private and can’t be visited) and the furnace next to the river with a dam. All the buildings are closed.
The beautiful brick building is also private and is used to hold conferences. The company that owns the property obviously has no interest in the WHS – they constantly bend and break rules to please themselves and despite having a NKO70 billion foundation, request local funds if money is to be spent here.
Oljeon. In Angelsberg, this is the world’s oldest preserved oil refinery dating from 1875 with retorts, distillers, boiling and paraffin presses. It supplied Sweden with lamp oil, paraffin and grease.
UPPSALA (pop 215,000)
The historical and spiritual heart of Sweden, it is one of the oldest and most dynamic cities, the latter thanks in part to a student population of 40,000 (the university is Sweden’s oldest and one of the oldest and most esteemed in the world) that feed a lively café and bar scene. The meandering Fyris River flows through the centre flanked by pathways and cafes. Gamla (Old) Uppsala is a fascinating archaeology site just outside of town, once a flourishing 6th century religious centre and burial ground. Third century rune stones are common throughout town.
Biotopia. At the University, this is a small natural history exhibit with about 6 large dioramas that are all well done.
Uppsala Domkirka. This dominates the city and is Scandinavia’s largest church with towers soaring 119m. Small chapels and tombs (St Erik, Gustav Vasa and Carl von Linné) are some of the highlights. Free
Gustavaianum. The shelves in this musty building hold case after case of obsolete tools and preserved oddities: stuffed birds, astrolabes, alligator mummies, exotic stones and dried sea creatures. A highlight is the 17th century Augsburg Art Cabinet with 1000 ingenious trinkets. The anatomical theatre is where executed criminals were dissected.
Uppsala Slott. Built by Gustav Vasa in 1550, it contains the state hall where kings were enthroned and the site of the brutal murder in 1567 when King Erik XIV and his guards killed Nils Sture and his two sons after accusing them of high treason. The castle burned down in 1702, but was rebuilt and took its present form in 1757. Admission by guided tour (English at 1 and 3pm). There are two museums in the Slott: Fredens hus, another museum with rotating exhibits and the art museum. Free
Uppsala Art Museum. Another local art museum. Fre
Linaeus Garden. The first botanical garden in Sweden was started here in 1655. Most was destroyed in a fire in 1702 and was rebuilt under the direction of Carl Linaeus. He had just been appointed professor of medicine and he lived with his family in the ground floor of the house from 1743-78, now a museum. The upper floor was the department of medicine and botany with a lecture room, library, study and natural history museum. Linaeus built the orangery holding warm weather plants. There were 3000 plant species when Linaeus lived here. The gardens closed in 1802, it was converted into a park, and then reopened in 1923. It is operated by the Swedish Linaeus Society and Uppsala University. The gardens are small with the central area large beds of flowers (presented systematically), shrubs and hedges with large trees on the circumference. SEK 80
Vaksala Torg. This is an open-air flea market held in the main square next to the concert hall. Besides a large vegetable/fruit tent, it is tables under framed tents with people selling their junk.
Skokloster Castle. Built from 1654-76, it is located on a peninsula of Lake Malaren between Stockholm and Uppsala. Construction stopped when Wrangel died leaving the Unfinished Hall, several hundred tools and books on construction. It was sold to the Swedish government in 1970 and renovated with well-preserved interiors – Baroque paintings, furniture, textiles, silver and glass tableware.
One of the most famous paintings is Vertunmus by Arcimboldo.
The armoury has the largest collection of personal 17th century military weapons in the world.
SIGTUNA (pop 8500)
Between Stockholm and Uppsala, this is one of the cutest and most historically relevant villages in the country. Founded around 980, it is the oldest surviving town in Sweden and its main street is very likely Sweden’s oldest main street.
On my way to Rosersberg Slott, I had an accident with my van. I became trapped on a railway crossing south of Rosersberg and could not easily find a safe place. The train struck the lower 30cm of the left rear corner of the van and basically demolished the vehicle. I was able to salvage most everything, a lovely woman (Magdalena) let me stay at her house for 2 days and I flew home from Stockholm on September 18, with no plans on returning to Europe in the near future.
I would not want to travel in anything but a VW California van. I need to see how the insurance works out and the cost of another similar vehicle to what I had before I would return.
Rosersberg Slott. On Málaren Lake about 9kms southeast of Sigtuna, it was built in 1630 and used as a royal residence from 1762 to 1860. The interior has exquisite furnishings and it soted for its textiles. Highlights include the lavishly draped State Bedchamber and Queen Hedvig Elizabeth Charlotta’s conversation room.
I returned to Sweden seeing the north and the west on a quick tour of north Scandinavia and arrived in Stockholm on July 27, 2019.
STOCKHOLM July 27-31, 2019
Stockholm is the capital of Sweden and the most populous urban area in the Nordic countries. 965,232 people live in the municipality, approximately 1.6 million in the urban area, and 2.4 million in the metropolitan area. The city stretches across fourteen islands where Lake Mälaren flows into the Baltic Sea. Outside the city to the east, and along the coast, is the island chain of the Stockholm archipelago. The area has been settled since the Stone Age, in the 6th millennium BC, and was founded as a city in 1252 by Swedish statesman Birger Jarl. It is also the county seat of Stockholm County.
Stockholm is the cultural, media, political, and economic centre of Sweden. The Stockholm region alone accounts for over a third of the country’s GDP, and is among the top 10 regions in Europe by GDP per capita. It is an important global city, and the main centre for corporate headquarters in the Nordic region. The city is home to some of Europe’s top ranking universities, such as the Stockholm School of Economics, Karolinska Institute and Royal Institute of Technology (KTH). It hosts the annual Nobel Prize ceremonies and banquet at the Stockholm Concert Hall and Stockholm City Hall. One of the city’s most prized museums, the Vasa Museum, is the most visited non-art museum in Scandinavia.
The Stockholm metro, opened in 1950, is well known for the decor of its stations; it has been called the longest art gallery in the world.
Sweden’s national football arena is located north of the city centre, in Solna. Ericsson Globe, the national indoor arena, is in the southern part of the city. The city was the host of the 1912 Summer Olympics, and hosted the equestrian portion of the 1956 Summer Olympics otherwise held in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Stockholm is the seat of the Swedish government and most of its agencies, including the highest courts in the judiciary, and the official residencies of the Swedish monarch and the Prime Minister. The government has its seat in the Rosenbad building, the Riksdag (Swedish parliament) is seated in the Parliament House, and the Prime Minister’s residence is adjacent at Sager House. Stockholm Palace is the official residence and principal workplace of the Swedish monarch, while Drottningholm Palace, a World Heritage Site on the outskirts of Stockholm, serves as the Royal Family’s private residence.
TIPS & OBSERVATIONS for STOCKHOLM
1. FREE MUSEUMS IN STOCKHOLM
Bergianska Botanical Gardens (not the glass houses)
Swedish Army Museum
Swedish Royal Museum of Natural History
Swedish History Museum
Hallwyl Museum
Modern Museum
Museum of Ethnography
Museum of Technology
Nationalmuseum
National Maritime Museum
The Royal Coin Cabinet
The Royal Armoury
The Museum of Mediterranean & Near Eastern Antiquities
The Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities
The City Museum of Stockholm
Skokloster Castle
The Medieval Museum
The National Sports Museum of Sweden
2. STOCKHOLM CARD
The Stockholm Pass includes free admission to some of the city’s top attractions. This gives you a good opportunity to cram in lots of sightseeing without worrying about what it costs to get into each attraction. Avoid queues to buy tickets. The best advice is to work out exactly what you want to see and then add up the totals. If you’re doing a fair bit of sightseeing and want to check out big must-see attractions like the Vasa Museum, you’ll probably find that it’s much cheaper to buy the Stockholm Pass rather than going it alone. The easiest option is to order the pass online and have it shipped to your home, or collect it when you arrive in Stockholm.
You may be able to lower the cost of the Stockholm Pass by finding a discount code online (10% off prior to July 31).
Museums included:
Vasa Museum
The Royal Palace
Nobel Museum
Drottningholm Palace
Skansen open-air museum
Nordic Museum
Storkyrkan Cathedral
Gröna Lund theme park
Fotografiska
Vikingaliv
Artipelag art gallery
Thiel Gallery
Swedish National Museum of Science and Technology
Sven-Harry’s Art Museum
Strindberg Museum
Skansen Aquarium
Rosersberg Palace (40km north of Stockholm)
Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde
Bergianska trädgården (Edvard Anderson Conservancy)
Dance Museum
Other Museums included in Stockholm Pass: Vaxholm Fortress Museum, Tullgarn Palace, Ulriksdal Palace and Orangery, Butterfly House Haga Ocean, Rosendal Palace, Victoria House House, Tre Kronor, Royal Stables, Museum of Spirits, The House of Nobility (Riddarhuset), Swedish Museum of Performing Arts (theatre, music and dance), Skyview (20 minute gondola ride departs every 10 minutes), Royal Treasury, Postal Museum, Police Museum, Millesgarden Art Museum, K A Almgren’s Silk Mill Museum, Gustav III Pavilion, Gustav III’s Musuem of Antiquities, Gripsholm Castle, Fargfrabriken (Contemporary Art M), Drottingham Court Theatre, Chinese Pavilion at Drottingham, Casino Cosmopol, Bonniers Konsthall (contemporary art M), Bergrummet (toys and comics)
Boat and Bus Tours in Stockholm Pass
Pick up your free ticket at the Strömma ticket booth. You are not able to pre-book tours with the Stockholm Pass. If the ticket booth is closed please go directly to the boat and show your valid Stockholm Pass to the staff onboard. During the summer it is a good idea to visit the ticket booth early the same day to collect your sightseeing tour ticket. Sometimes there are a lot of visitors and some tours may be full during the high season. Subject to availability.
• ‘Under the Bridges’ tour – 2¼ hours, every hour 10 – 18:00. Departs Stromkajen
• Boat trip to Drottningholm Palace. Boat tour departs every half hour 10-11, 12-1, 2-3 and 4pm. 1 hour each way. Departs from Klara Malarstrand / City Hall.
• Guided archipelago tour by boat – 1½ hour tour departs from Nybrokajen, berth no. 8. Take the boat M/S Gustafsberg VII through the narrow passages of the Stockholm archipelago to Artipelag located on Värmdö, a world unique destination with art, design, architecture. Free entry to Artipelag Art Gallery & Boat Tour: Art Gallery: Adult: SEK 185, Boat Tour: Adult: SEK 380.
• Boat tour to Birka, the Viking City – 7½ hours, departs 10am Departs Klara Malarstrand/City Hall. Not able to pick up tickets in advance, queue at dock
• Historical Canal Boat tour – every hour 10:30 – 16:30. Departs Klara Malarstrand / City Hall
• Royal Canal Boat Tour – 50 minutes – every hour 10:30 – 19:30. Departs Stromkajen
• Vaxholm (Capital of the Archipelago) boat tour. 3 hours. Departs 12 and 15:00 from Strandvagen Birth
• Hop-on, hop-off bus tours
• Old Town Guided Walk – at 10, 12 and 1:30 – starts at Karl XII’s torg and ends at Stromkagen,
• Stockholm Panorama Bus tour – 10:30, 13:30, 15:00, 16:30, 18:30.
Transportation. Stockholm Pass with the ‘travelcard’ add-on, which gives you unlimited use of the city’s boats, buses, trams and local trains.
Cost in Swedish kronor: 1 day 669, 2 days 929, 3 days 1129, 5 days 1479 (July 2019)
Add travelcard: I day 120, 3 days 260
Passes for children are half price, but there aren’t any discounts for students or seniors.
Collection of the Stockholm Pass
Send to your home address (charge of 60-80 SEK) but may take weeks.
Sold at some of the big hotels and selected 7-Eleven stores.
Pick up when in Stockholm at Åhléns store at Klarabergsgatan 50
Mobile Version. Download and usually a much quicker and simpler option.
Museums and Castles Not Included in Stockholm Pass:
ABBA: The Museum – 20% off with Stockholm Pass 250 SEK
Jewish Museum of Sweden
Bogesund Castle
Bonde Palace
Day 1
I arrived in the early afternoon and had a drive about to see sights that were free in the north part of the city.
Scandic Victoria Tower. This 4-star hotel is a skyscraper hotel in the Kista district of Stockholm. It is also known as the Victoria Tower, however the Scandic name is used to distinguish it from the Victoria Tower that forms the southwest end of the Palace of Westminster. The 117m hotel is one of the tallest buildings in Stockholm, as well as the tallest hotel in Scandinavia. It is named for Crown Princess Victoria, the heir apparent to the Swedish throne.
It is an imposing building with triangular, reflective glass panels and forms a T shape at the top. It has dining and a roof-top bar on the 34th floor.
Bergianska trädgården. This botanical gardens has tropical and Mediterranean plants in 2 glasshouses. The Edvard Anderson (1865-1936) glasshouse has many warm weather plants. SEK 80, free SC. The Victorian glasshouse is a small dome with great water lilies. SEK 20, free SC
I enjoyed the vegetable garden in the old orangery in front of the restaurant at the entrance with many I had not seen (these guys have a green thumb!). Most of the flowers were in bloom. All the information signs were in Swedish and all the labels were the scientific name (I hate this and I have been to a very few gardens with multi-language labels). Free
Swedish Royal Museum of Natural History. Excellent exhibits on climate change, old fashioned exhibits of stuffed animals, an excellent one on human evolution with life size figures and upstairs the award winners from Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition (compete in age categories starting with under 10s. English is spotty. Free
Cosmonova is an Imax theatre in the Natural History Museum – Oceans, Pandas, A Beautiful Planet SEK 120.
Swedish History Museum. The Gold Room downstairs has 52kgs of gold and 200 kgs of silver. A 17th century law that all unclaimed finds must me bought by the Swedish government has resulted in this huge and stunning collection, most discovered as hoards and having dates from 2000 BC to the 1600s. The best pieces are a very thin Bronze Age bowl and 3 ornate collars of gold wire and tiny animal decoration. Then follow a time line on the floor that is very well done giving a great chronological history of the country. The medieval life and art exhibits are also well done with some amazing carved and painted altars.
Hallwyl Museum. This grand residence was a gift to Stockholm from Wilhemina von Hallwyl (1844-1930), who inherited a fortune from her father Wilhelm Kempe, a 19th century industrialist. The house is as it was when they lived here. She married Walther von Hallwyl (1839-1921), from one of Switzerland’s noblest families (Schloss Hallwyl is a family castle in Switzerland). They had the house built in 1890 and moved here when her father died so that Walther could take over the family business (also ran from the house). See two floors of over-the-top rooms most with elegant wood paneling, ceilings (coffered wood or carved stucco, several with paintings), lovely parquet floors, marble fireplaces (none used as the house had central heating), tapestries, art (mostly portraiture but also an entire art gallery on the 3rd floor seen only by guided tour) and classic furniture (one of the highlights is a piano faced with pear wood inlays). She was a collector of armour and weapons, art and porcelain (every major maker in Europe is represented and labeled plus a large room of Asian porcelain). Upstairs is a large exhibit in several rooms of their daughter, Ebba von Eckerman (1866-1960) who was very active in women’s rights issues. Free
Nordiska Kompaniet (NK Stockholm). This is a down town high-end department store has 4 upper levels, 2 below and a parking garage at the lowest level.
T-Centralen Station. This has metro, buses (local, Arlanda Airport, country and international) and commuter trains with 19 tracks. The main hall is a long barrel vault lined with shops and a food court. Most is underground.
Rådhuset Station. This metro station has rough stone walls coated with an orange material. Blue and black ceramic tiles border the tunnels.
Branting Monument. This is a statue of the Swedish Social Democratic leader leader Hjalmar Branting (1860 – 1925). The monument is 5 meters tall and 6 meters wide.
The bronze relief monument, by artist Carl Eldh, is located in a small park at Norra Bantorget in Stockholm, which is the traditional Social Democratic grounds of the city. Eldh started working on the monument in 1926, one year after Branting had died, but it was erected only in 1952. The monument shows a prominent looking Branting addressing a group of workers on a May Day demonstration. Several of the worker movement’s pioneers are found in the otherwise anonymous crowd of workers surrounding Branting, including Axel Danielsson and August Palm.
On 17 May 1992, the monument was partly damaged when a small bomb exploded and blew up a hole in the belly of the Hjalmar Branting figure. This was the fourth in a series of five statue bombings in Stockholm that had begun on 25 February and ended on 8 June. A group of seven teenagers, six boys and one girl, were arrested a week later and confessed to the acts of vandalism. (The other statues were not political monuments, and no political motives were mentioned in the news reports.)
The monument was restored two years later by the local company Herman Bergmans konstgjuteri AB, the foundry that had originally made it in the early 1950s. The restoration cost, 320,000 Swedish crowns, was shared by the City of Stockholm and the Stockholm section of the Swedish Trade Union Confederation.
Kungstornen (King’s Towers) are twin tower skyscrapers, individually named Norra Kungstornet (Northern King’s Tower) and Södra Kungstornet (Southern King’s Tower), in Norrmalm. The 16-storey Norra Kungstornet is 60 m (200 ft) and was built between 1919 and 1924; and the taller 17-storey, 61 m (200 ft) Södra Kungstornet was built between 1924 and 1925 (Has copper/gilt statues on the 4 corners of the penthouse). Together, they are considered the first modern skyscrapers in Europe.
The tower pair marks a slight bend in the street, one block east of Hötorget, where it is crossed by the 16 m (52 ft) Malmskillnadsbron, a bridge in the course of Malmskillnadsgatan, to which they are adjacent. They can be accessed from the bridge or the perpendicular street below. They are 16 m (52 ft) and of similar, but not identical, exterior design. Their construction was inspired by American models, particularly the architecture of Lower Manhattan of the time. The north tower was designed by Sven Wallander who also authored the 1919 master plan for Kungsgatan; the southern tower was designed by Ivar Callmander.
Mall of Scandinavia. This is a modern 3 level shopping mall in a northern suburb of Stockholm. It has no unusual features and all the usual stores and restaurants. This was my last sight for the day.
I slept on a main street just outside a McDonalds for free wi-fi and across the street from Central Station.
Day 2
I had a walk-about seeing all the free museums and sights.
R1 Nuclear Reactor (KTH R1), In the NM “Bizzarium” series, R1 was the first nuclear reactor of Sweden. It was a research reactor located at the Royal Institute of Technology (KTH) campus at Valhallavägen in central Stockholm, in the rock beneath the current-day Q buildings. The reactor was active from July 13, 1954 to June 6, 1970. The capacity of the reactor was originally 300 kW but was later increased to 1 MW.
The reactor was dismantled, and there is nothing left of it today; the reactor hall however still exists. There were no signs on the locked door that visits were possible.
In 2016, the reactor hall was used to film the music video for Alan Walker’s song Faded (Restrung). The video was released on 11 February 2016.
Swedish Army Museum. This is an excellent museum about Sweden at war since 1500, not just a lot of guns and uniforms. The best part was about feeding armies and how the ability to get the huge amounts of food necessary to feed an army of en determined the course of a war. More men died of starvation and disease than from the battles. There were also several exhibits on war booty. I spent much longer than I thought I would. Free
Nationalmuseum. 2nd floor: Art, glass, sculpture, furniture and design from 1800 to the present. Very nice. 3rd floor: more art, furniture, glass from 1600-1800. Free
SKEPPSHOLMEN ISLAND
Beginning in the 1640s, this island was a naval garrison.
Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities. Art, mostly porcelain and pottery from Japan, Korea and China. The temporary exhibit was on the women divers of Haenyeo (Jeju Island) that I have seen before. Free
Moderna. Cartoon called Riverboat Song by Jordan Wolfson very wild. Otherwise a lot of bad art. Free
The Swedish Center for Architecture and Design (ArkDes). Shows 1000 years of Swedish architecture and cities. Exhibit on where design and technology may be headed with 50 objects. The art of Swedish game design. Has café, library and a collection of 4000 articles by 500 Swedish architects. In the same building as
af Chapman. Formerly Dunboyne (1888–1915) and G.D. Kennedy (−1923), is a full-rigged steel ship moored on the western shore of the islet Skeppsholmen, now serving as a youth hostel.
The ship was constructed by the Whitehaven Shipbuilding Company, located at Whitehaven in the English county of Cumberland (present-day Cumbria), and launched in February or March of 1888. Her original owners were Charles E. Martin & Co of Dublin and she was originally known as Dunboyne, after the town of Dunboyne in County Meath, Ireland. Her maiden voyage was from Maryport, Cumberland, to Portland, Oregon, and she subsequently made voyages between Europe, Australia and the west coast of North America.
The Dumboyne was sold to Norwegian owners in 1909, and then sold on to the Swedish shipping company Transatlantic in 1915. Her new owners renamed her G. D. Kennedy, but sold her on the Swedish Navy in 1923. The Navy gave the vessel her present name after the shipbuilder and Vice Admiral Fredrik Henrik af Chapman (1721–1808). She was used as a training ship and as such she made several trips around the world, running aground at Port Aleza, Puerto Rico, on 13 July 1934. Her final voyage was in 1934, but she served as a barracks ship during World War II (1939-1945)>
In 1947 the Stockholm City Museum saved the ship from being broken up, and since 1949 af Chapman has been managed by the Swedish Tourist Association. It serves as a youth hostel with 285 beds. During 2008 the ship underwent a comprehensive restoration. While the ship was being worked on in a drydock, the adjacent youth hostel Skeppsholmen remained open. Usually, the af Chapman and Skeppsholmen – not to be confused with the islet of the same name, on which both are situated – are run as a single hostel, with the af Chapman offering accommodation and Skeppsholmen housing the reception, a kitchen for guests, and other facilities. The ship is docked on the shore next to the Admiralty House.
This white, 3-masted sailing ship is 74m long, 11.4m wide, weighs 1,430 tons and its masts are 42.1m, 43.3m and 35.5m tall. It also has a restaurant/bar (hours 3-9 or 10).
GAMLA STAN
The Old Town of Stockholm is one of the largest and best-preserved medieval city centers in Europe, and one of the foremost attractions in Stockholm. This is where Stockholm was founded in 1252.
All of Gamla Stan and the adjacent island of Riddarholmen are like a living pedestrian-friendly museum full of sights, attractions, shopping, restaurants, cafés, bars, and places to shop. The narrow winding cobblestone streets, with their buildings in so many different shades of gold and pastel colours give Gamla Stan its unique character. Even now cellar vaults and frescoes from the Middle Ages can be found behind the visible facades.
Västerlånggatan and Österlånggatan are the district’s main streets. The city wall that once surrounded the city ran inside these streets along what is now Prästgatan. In the middle of Gamla Stan is Stortorget, the oldest square in Stockholm. Stortorget is the central point from which runs Köpmangatan, the oldest street in Stockholm, which was mentioned as early as the fourteenth century. Mårten Trotzigs gränd (Mårten Trotzigs alley) is hard to find. It’s the narrowest alley in Gamla Stan, only 90 centimeters wide at its narrowest point.
There are several beautiful churches and museums in Gamla Stan. I saw the free ones not included in the Stockholm Card on July 28.
Museum of Medieval Stockholm. Stockholm’s core, the present Old Town (Gamla Stan) was built on the central island next to Helgeandsholmen from the mid-13th century onward. The city originally rose to prominence as a result of the Baltic trade of the Hanseatic League. Stockholm developed strong economic and cultural linkages with Lubeck, Hamburg, Gdansk, Visby, Reval, and Riga during this time.Between 1296 and 1478 Stockholm’s City Council was made up of 24 members, half of whom were selected from the town’s German-speaking burghers.
The strategic and economic importance of the city made Stockholm an important factor in relations between the Danish Kings of the Kalmar Union and the national independence movement in the 15th century. The Danish King Christian II was able to enter the city in 1520. On 8 November 1520, a massacre of opposition figures called the Stockholm Bloodbath took place and set off further uprisings that eventually led to the breakup of the Kalmar Union. With the accession of Gustav Vasa in 1523 and the establishment of royal power, the population of Stockholm began to grow, reaching 10,000 by 1600.
The museum gives an interesting look at how the people lived – their shops, religious life and a segment of city wall dating from the 1530s. There were three monasteries in Stockholm: Grey Friars 1279, Clare Nunnery 1280s and Black Friars. A giant wood boat occupies the center of the museum. Free
The museum is underground in the oldest public park in Stockholm dating from 1832. It sits on an island in the middle of the Norrström River. Access over the Norrbro Bridge, built in 1807, the only existing bridge remaining in the city with stone vaulting.
Royal Coin Cabinet. It is closed and in the process of moving to the Swedish History Museum where it will open in 2020.
Iron Boy (Järnpojke). In the backyard of the Finnish church in Gamla stan is Stockholm’s smallest statue. The sculpture is only 15 cm high. The sculpture of the Swedish artist Liss Eriksson (1919 – 2000) is actually named “Little boy looking at the moon”. However, it is usually just called “Järnpojke”, the “Iron Boy”. The Iron Boy has stood here since 1967.
The sculpture is said to bring good luck to anyone who caresses the boy’s head or offers a small gift to him. The head is completely polished from all loving hands. Some Stockholmers also say that one should caress the boy so that one will come back to Stockholm. The boy gets witty gifts every day: sometimes cheese, sometimes Sushi, sometimes coins, and sometimes fruit. Every day there is something new, every day the sculpture looks a little different.
This tiny 15cm tall bronze statue sits on 10 x 30cm steel plate that is on a one meter square steel plate. It is a figure of a boy sitting with his arms wrapped around his knee. The face is featureless and the head rubbed to expose the bronze colour.
German Church (Tyska Kyrkan). St Gertrude’s has a brick/dressed stone exterior and the enormous copper spire, the highlights of this church. The inside had wood lower walls full of saints in gilded frames, a large gilt altar and finely carved wood pulpit. SEC 30, 20 reduced
Jewish Museum of Sweden. This tells of the history of Jews in Sweden and has little on the holocaust. SEK 100, 80 reduced
In 1779, foreigners were allowed to immigrate to Sweden and practice religion freely. In fact, the first Jew, Aaron Issac had come in 1774. In 1782, the Jewish Ordnance was passed allowing Jews to live only in Stockholm, Gothenburg and Norkopping, banned them from working as craftsmen or belonging to guilds and created a “state within a state” as they were expected to live apart, marry only Jews and had to settle all their disputes within the group. A rabbinical court functioned from 1782-1838 to deal with legal disputes, there was a Jewish school and cemetery. One exception was made allowing Jews to sit Saturday exams after the Sabbath. Fabian Philip, a Jewish manufacturer of sails in Karlskrona was an exception as he was allowed to stay there as his services were invaluable. The ordnance was repealed in 1838 and Jews became Swedish citizens of the Mosaic Faith.
In the mid 19th century, occupations were opened, they could live anywhere, but could not become citizens. The borders opened from 1860-1914 and many Jews from Eastern Europe, mostly Russian, came to Sweden. Jewish life spread throughout Sweden and most were peddlers selling clothes, pots and pans and anything they could carry on their backs. The women did not integrate well and most spoke only Yiddish. These new Jews could not gain citizenship.
In WW II, Sweden made it illegal for Jews to be refugees there and they were turned away at the borders. In 1938 the quota for Jews was 50 adults and 500 children. This changed in 1942 when Norwegian Jews came to escape occupied Norway. In 1944, the Swedish businessman Raoul Wallenberg went to Hungary and arranged documents for the few remaining Jews there to go to Sweden saving approximately 20,000 Jews from the Nazi holocaust. In the spring and summer of 1945, 11,500 Jews arrived from northern Europe.
After the war many became involved in Zionist organizations and life was normal for Jews in Sweden. There are now about 20,000 Jews living in Sweden, 80% in Stockholm.
The museum opened in 1987 in the original 1795 synagogue. It functioned as the main Jewish center in Stockholm until 1870 when a new synagogue was built. Recent renovations have uncovered some of the murals painted over.
Statue of Evert Taube. This 1.6m tall bronze statue incongruously sits on sidewalk in Gamla Stan. Appearing as an elderly gentleman, he is wearing a suit, long coat and beret. His right hand holds sheet music and his left is raising his glasses.
Axel Evert Taube (1890–1976) was a Swedish author, artist, composer and singer. He is widely regarded as one of Sweden’s most respected musicians and the foremost troubadour of the Swedish ballad tradition in the 20th century.
Having spent two years (1907–1909) sailing around the Red Sea, Ceylon and South Africa, Taube began his career as a singer-songwriter and collector of sailors’ songs, and on Christmas Eve 1908, on board the Norwegian ship SS Bergen headed for Spain, he performed “Turalleri, piken fra Hamburg”.
Following a five-year stay (1910–1915) in Argentina, he developed an interest in Latin American music and introduced the Argentinian tango to Sweden in the twenties. Contrary to widespread perceptions, Taube did not work as a gaucho (cowboy) on the Pampas but as a foreman supervising workers who were digging canals designed to prevent flooding on the vast plains.
He is perhaps best known as a depictor of the idyllic, with motifs from the Swedish archipelagoes and from the Mediterranean, from a perspective every Swedish four-week holiday tourist could recognize. But he also wrote the most hitting anti-fascist anti-war poem in the Swedish language, “Målaren och Maria Pia”, about the Italian war in Abyssinia, from the late 30s, as well as the anthem of the budding environmental movement in the 70s, “Änglamark” (originally written for the successful 1971 Hasse & Tage film The Apple War).
Among Taube’s most famous songs are “Calle Schewens vals”, “Min älskling (du är som en ros)”, “Dans på Sunnanö”, “Brevet Från Lillan”, “Flickan i Havanna”, “Änglamark”, “Sjösala vals”, “Fritiof och Carmencita”, “Så skimrande var aldrig havet” and “Så länge skutan kan gå”.
In 1976 he released an album of songs (on SR Records) about and by Sweden’s 18th century bard, Carl Michael Bellman, performing 9 of Bellman’s Fredman’ Epistles including the ever popular Vila vid denna källa, Ulla! min Ulla! säj, får jag dig bjuda, and Solen glimmar blank och trind.
Taube has been translated into English. His songs have been recorded in English by Roger Whittaker, Sven-Bertil Taube, Martin Best, Roger Hinchliffe and Emily Melcher.
Taube died in Stockholm and is buried on the graveyard of Maria Magdalena Church on Södermalm.
On my way to Nynäshamn, I saw these two places.
Hornstulls Marknad. Situated in Hornstull, Södermalm. Runs along the water and takes place every week-end Saturday & Sunday from April until the end of September. Classic flea market with a wide range of exciting exhibitors. Food, antiques, art, design and vintage are just some of the categories you meet in Stockholm’s nicest weekend pleasure. And anyone can be a vendor!
Globen (Ericsson Globe). Ericsson Globe, originally known as Stockholm Globe Arena and commonly referred to in Swedish simply as Globen is an indoor arena located in Stockholm Globe City.
The Ericsson Globe is the largest hemispherical building on Earth and took two and a half years to build. Shaped like a large white ball, it has a diameter of 110m and an inner height of 85m. The volume of the building is 605,000 cubic meters (21,188,800 cubic feet). It has a seating capacity of 16,000 spectators for shows and concerts, and 13,850 for ice hockey.
It represents the Sun in the Sweden Solar System, the world’s largest scale model of the Solar System.
Globen was inaugurated on 19 February 1989 after a construction period of less than three years. The first major sporting event was the 1989 World Ice Hockey Championships. On February 2, 2009, the naming rights to the Stockholm Globe Arena were officially acquired by Swedish telecommunications company Ericsson, and it became known as the Ericsson Globe.
The Globe is primarily used for ice hockey, and is the former home arena of AIK, Djurgårdens IF, and Hammarby IF. It is also used for musical performances as well as other sports like futsal (indoor football). The arena has been the home of the finals of Sveriges Television’s yearly music competition Melodifestivalen since 2002. Ericsson Globe has hosted the Eurovision Song Contest 2000 and Eurovision Song Contest 2016.
On July 29th, I left Stockholm to go 70kms south to Nynäshamn to catch the 05:10 ferry to Gotland and returned the same day Skogskyrgarden that evening.
Skogskyrkogården. Swedish for “The Woodland Cemetery”, this is a cemetery located in the Enskededalen district south of central Stockholm.
When I got off the ferry from Gotland, I drove to this World Heritage Site. Google Maps said it was closed (hours 11-4) but that must apply to the visitors center because the cemetery is open 24 hours per day.
100.000 people are buried here. There are 2000 funerals per year held in the 5 chapels. There is a crematorium.
The setting is lovely – completely flat, mature pine trees and grass. Bit otherwise it is the most boring cemetery I have ever been to. All the stones are small and very ordinary. Many are leaning over as they seem to be planted shallowly in the soft turf. Several have bushes or perennials planted as is common in European cemeteries. There are no elaborate markers or crypts, none with photographs and nothing written but dates and name. And it is huge as the graves are quite spaced out. It must be the world’s worst nightare to keep the grass cut as every stone sits in grass.
The area of Greta Garbo’s grave is marked in the map and I walked all over the supposed area but as all the stones are about the same size, none are distinguished.
And it is all quite confusing. You get the prize if you can find it. I finally gave up. I have been to many more impressive cemeteries. Although this is the only one that is WHS listed, it would not make it into my post “Best Cemeteries in the World”.
History. Skogskyrkogården came about following an international competition in 1915 for the design of a new cemetery in Enskede in the southern part of Stockholm, Work began in 1917 on land that had been old gravel quarries that were overgrown with pine trees, and the first phase was completed three years later. The architects’ use of the natural landscape created an extraordinary environment of tranquil beauty that had a profound influence on cemetery design throughout the world.
The long route through the cemetery leads from the ornamental colonnaded entrance, then splits, one way leading through a pastoral landscape, with a large pond and a tree-lined meditation hill, and the other up to a large detached dark granite cross, the focus of the vista from the main entrance. The abstract portico of the Woodland Crematorium with its Faith, Hope, and Holy Cross Chapels, was designed in a rational modernist style and built in 1935–40.. The paths then rejoin and pass along a dead-straight path through a dense grove of tall pine trees. The small chapel is set on a Tuscan peristyle and featuring a gold statue on the roof by Carl Milles.
In 1994, Skogskyrkogården was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site and although it does not have the number of famous interments as the Norra begravningsplatsen, its much older counterpart in northern Stockholm, it is a major tourist attraction. At the Tallum Pavilion (a building designed originally by Asplund as staff facilities), visitors can see an exhibition about the cemetery and the story of its origins and the two architects whose vision created it.
Day 3
On July 30, I returned to Stockholm from Gotland and saw the first three then all the museums, palaces and churches included in the Stockholm Pass.
God our Father on the Rainbow. This magnificent sculpture sits in the end of a rock causeway protecting a small marina. In 1946, the sculptor Carl Milles created “God on the Rainbow” as a place monument to celebrate the founding of the United Nations. Marshall Fredericks, an American sculptor and long time assistant to Milles made the sculpture in full scale from the original bronze at Milles Garden.
A bronze angel stands at the bottom of a stainless steel bow with a bronze man on top holding several spiked orbs.
Ekerö. This island in eastern Stockholm is residential on the south bit (pop 11,500) and farms and forest in the north. Take a ferry from Ekerö to Hovgården – leaves the other side on the hour and half-hour, takes 5 minutes to cross and then returns immediately.
BIRKA
Regarded as Sweden’s first city, The Viking City of Birka is situated on the island of Björkö in Lake Mälaren, Birka was one of the most important trading centers for Vikings. On the island you can go strolling in the cultural landscape, join a guided tour of the archaeological fields and visit the Birka Museum. You can also visit the reconstructed Viking village with its typical forges and weaving cabins.
Birka on the island of Björkö (“Birch Island”) was an important Viking Age trading center which handled goods from Scandinavia and Finland as well as Central and Eastern Europe and the Orient. Björkö is located in Lake Mälaren, 30 kilometers west of contemporary Stockholm. Birka was founded around AD 750 and it flourished for more than 200 years. It was abandoned c. AD 975, around the same time Sigtuna was founded as a Christian town some 35 km to the northeast. It has been estimated that the population in Viking Age Birka was between 500 and 1000 people.
The archaeological sites of Birka and Hovgården, on the neighbouring island of Adelsö, make up an archaeological complex which illustrates the elaborate trading networks of Viking Scandinavia and their influence on the subsequent history of Europe. Generally regarded as Sweden’s oldest town, Birka (along with Hovgården) has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993. A silver ring from a Viking-era grave in Birka is the first ring with Arabic inscription from that era found in Scandinavia.
History. Birka was founded around AD 750 by either a king in order to control and expand trade or it emerged from a seasonal trading place around. It is one of the earliest urban settlements in Scandinavia. Birka was the Baltic link in the river and portage route through Ladoga (Aldeigja) and Novgorod (Holmsgard) to the Byzantine Empire and the Abbasid Califate. Birka was also important as the site of the first known Christian congregation in Sweden, founded in 831 by Saint Ansgar.
As a trading center Birka most likely offered furs and iron goods as well as craft products, in exchange for various materials from much of Europe and western Asia. Furs were obtained from the Sami, Finns, and people in northwestern Russia as well as from local trappers. Furs included bear, fox, marten, otter, beaver and other species. Reindeer antler was an important item in exchange as well as hand-carved combs made from antler. Also walrus teeth, amber, and honey were exchanged.
Foreign goods found from the graves of Birka include glass and metal ware, pottery from the Rhineland, clothing and textiles including Chinese silk, Byzantine embroidery with extremely fine gold thread, brocades with gold passementerie and plaited cords of high quality. From the ninth century onwards coins minted at Haithabu in northern Germany and elsewhere in Scandinavia start to appear. The vast majority of the coins found at Birka are however silver dirhams from the Caliphate. English and Carolingian coins are rare.
Sources of Birka are mainly archaeological remains. No texts survive from this area.
There are no known Norse sources mentioning the name of the settlement, or even the settlement itself, and the original Norse name of Birka is unknown.
However, Björkö is the only location that can show remains of a town of Birca’s significance.
Birka was abandoned during the later half of the 10th century. Based on the coin finds, the city seems to have silenced around 960. Roughly around the same time, the nearby settlement of Sigtuna supplanted Birka as the main trading centre in the Mälaren area. The reasons for Birka’s decline are disputed. A contributing factor may have been the post-glacial rebound, which lowered the water level of Mälaren changing it from an arm of the sea into a lake and cut Birka off from the nearest (southern) access to the Baltic Sea. The Baltic island of Gotland was also in a better strategic position for Russian-Byzantine trade, and was gaining eminence as a mercantile stronghold.The Varangian trade stations in Russia suffered a serious decline at roughly the same date.
Getting There. The only way to get to Birka is by the ferry caught at City Hall. It takes 2 hours traveling through Stockholm, Lake Mälaren, and the towns and villages that hug its shores. The ferry ticket includes entry to Birka Museum, as well as a guided tour of the World Heritage area (although tourists are also free to explore that on their own)>
After arriving at Birka Harbour, everything looks normal—no theme park, no obvious archaeological digs, nothing showy at all. This is for two reasons: the original town was built mostly of wood so there’s little original architecture, and the area remains an ongoing dig site.
Visit the Birka Museum to get see the history and how life was for the roughly 700 inhabitants of Birka during the Viking Age as well as archaeological finds and replicas of the many excavations that have taken place. There are also wooden items from the marine archaeological excavations, maps from georadar surveys, and a Runestone that was believed to have disappeared but was recently rediscovered.
Tour the World Heritage site alone or with a guide. There are endless fields to explore and every innocuous pile of stones passed represents a Viking burial. Excavations are ongoing and many will most likely come across a few, so be respectful of the important work being done.
Viking Village. The reconstructed houses are built using the same tools and techniques used by the Vikings, so they really offer a sense of what life was like back in the 700s. Wander around the houses and also see and speak with the craftspeople who are continually working on the village and houses.
HOVGÂRDEN is an archaeological site on the Lake Mälaren island of Adelsö. During the Viking Age, the centre of the prospering Mälaren Valley
was the settlement Birka, founded in the mid-8th century and abandoned in the late 10th century and located on the island Björkö just south of Adelsö. Hovgården is believed to have been the site from which kings and chieftains ruled the area. Hovgården, together with Birka became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993.
History. Just north of the parish church are five large burial mounds of which three are called Kungshögar. In Swedish, Kung meaning King and högar, from the Old Norse word haugr, meaning mound or barrow. Hovgården apparently was the location for a royal estate Kungsgård as early as the Viking Age (c. 800-1050 CE). An excavation of one of these royal mounds in 1917 revealed the remains of a wealthy man who lived around 900 CE. He was burned lying in a boat, dressed in expensive clothing but without weapons, accompanied by horses, cows, and dogs.
Birka, the oldest town in Sweden, was an international trade post. It has been assumed the royal settlement at Hovgården was established as the king’s mean of controlling Birka. However, while Birka was abandoned in the mid-10th century, the royal estate was apparently not as the runestone. from around 1070 which claims to have been carved for the king was erected next to the royal mounds. It was part of Uppsala öd, a network of royal estates supporting the Kings of Sweden.
Furthermore, King Magnus Barnlock had the old castle replaced by a palace built in brick, Alsnö hus, in the 1270s. In the palace, the king established the Swedish nobility through the Ordinance of Alsnö in 1279. However, the palace was destroyed before the end of that century, and as it was left to decay Hovgården lost in importance.Svartsjölandet (Faringso).
DROTTNINGHOLM PALACE
This is the private residence of the Swedish royal family. Built on the island Lovön, it was originally built in the late 16th century, and it served as a regular summer residence of the Swedish royal court for most of the 18th century. It is a popular tourist attraction especially with Chinese tour groups.
The name Drottningholm (literally meaning “Queen’s islet”) came from the original renaissance building, a stone palace built by John III of Sweden in 1580 for his queen.
The Queen Dowager Regent Hedwig Eleonora bought the castle in 1661, a year after her role as Queen of Sweden ended, but it burnt to the ground on 30 December that same year. During the period of the reconstruction, Hedwig Eleonora was head of the regency for the still-underage King, Charles XI of Sweden, from 1660 to 1672. Sweden had grown to be a powerful country after the Peace of Westphalia. The position of the queen, essentially the ruler of Sweden, demanded an impressive residence located conveniently close to Stockholm.
During the reign of the kings Charles XI of Sweden and Charles XII of Sweden, the royal court was often present at the palace, which was used for hunting. Hedwig Eleonora used the palace as a summer residence until her death in 1715, also when she had become the undisputed host of the royal court during the absence of Charles XII in Great Northern War (1700–1721).
Drottningholm continued to serve regularly as a summer residence for the royal court during the entire 18th-century. In 1744, the palace was given as a gift from King Frederick I to the then Crown Princess, later Queen of Sweden, Louisa Ulrika of Prussia when she married Adolf Frederick of Sweden, who became King of Sweden in 1751. She transformed the interior to a more sophisticated French rococo style and built the Drottningholm Palace Theatre. In 1777, Louisa Ulrika sold Drottningholm to the Swedish state.
While it was owned by the Swedish state, the palace was used by them as a summer residence, and a grand ceremonial court life was performed at the palace, which is considered to have been a great age for the palace, during which it was known for the elaborate masquerades and grand theatrical festivities and tournaments performed in the gardens.
During the reign of Charles XIV John of Sweden (reign 1818–1844), the palace was abandoned. The King regarded it as a symbol of the old dynasty, and Drottningholm was left to decay. The buildings were damaged by the forces of nature, and their inventories were either taken away or auctioned off. It was opened to the public for the first time.
Oscar I of Sweden took an interest in the palace, and though he preferred Tullgarn Palace as summer residence, he took care to preserve the palace by doing the first repairs in 1846. Charles XV of Sweden preferred Ulriksdal Palace as his summer residence and ignored Drottningholm, but Oscar II of Sweden continued the repairs.
Both Oscar I and Oscar II were criticized for modernizing the palace and adjusting it to contemporary fashion rather than restoring it to its original state, and it was not until the reign of Gustav V that the palace and surroundings were reconstructed to their 18th-century appearance. In 1907, a major four-year restoration of the palace was begun to restore it to its former state, after which the royal court began to use it regularly again.
The current Swedish royal family have used Drottningholm as their primary residence since 1981. Since then, the Palace has also been guarded by the Swedish Military in the same fashion as Stockholm Palace.
The largest renovation, in which electricity, heating, sewage, water lines were either installed or updated and the castle roof replaced, took place between 1907 and 1913. During a 20-year-period beginning around 1977, several major areas of the palace were restored and rebuilt. The library and national hall received much of the attention and fire protection was installed throughout the palace. In 1997, work began to clean and rebuild the exterior walls. This was completed in 2002.
The palace church was built in 1746. The palace theatre is the opera house located at the palace. It is still in use, and its summer opera festivals are quite popular. The Chinese Pavilion is a Chinese-inspired royal pavilion built in 1763–1770 (this is a long walk, i never did find it and not worth the time).
The gardens and park areas are huge and have a Japanese garden, baroque garden (flanked by thick tree avenues has statues from Prague and Warsaw. The English garden has two ponds with canals, bridges, large open sections of grass, and trees in groups or avenues.
The palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, mainly because of the Drottningholm Palace Theatre and the Chinese Pavilion and was added to the list in 1991.
If you don’t have a free ticket (Stockholm Pass) or even if you do, don’t bother coming here. It is a long ways east of the city and is just another over-the-top palace decorated with a lot of bad taste by people with too much money and nothing else to do but redecorate their lavish home: portraits of funny-looking royals: silk and gilt-leather wallpapers, gilt everything, paintings covering the ceilings, clocks, vases and ugly furniture. I found the wonderful inlaid floors very nice. The library had 7,400 books.
Boat tour departs every half hour 10-11, 12-1, 2-3 and 4pm. 1 hour each way. Departs from Klara Malarstrand / City Hall. Get ticket at Stromma ticket booth or dock where departs from . Hours 10-5. SEK 150*
Butterfly House. This is a group of green houses with tropical plants, an aquarium (round open tanks, small tanks with tropical fish and a large tank with some sharks) and various amphibians (frogs that you couldn’t see and an axolotl, a salamander that remains a tadpole its entire life). There were very few butterflies but a large rack of pupa. There were a million screaming disobedient kids and is not really worth the trip unless you have your own vehicle. SEK 190, 155 reduced*
Aula Medica building. Owned by the Karolinska Institute, a university for doctors, dentists and nurses that opened 1810, this has office space, conference rooms, faculty club, restaurant and a 1000-seat auditorium (for business and university meetings). It was built from 2010-13 with 350 million SEK bequeathed by a family.
The stunning feature is the façade – all glass divided into rectangles with a diagonal producing triangles of dark, yellow and white glass. The entire building inclines outwards for its 7 floors. The inside of this “skin” is framed in clear pine. Take the elevator to the 7th floor and walk down the wood stairs between the used space and the façade.
The institute is the academy in charge of picking the Nobel prize for medicine.
Sven-Harrys Museum. Sven-Harry Karlsson (1915-79) was a Swedish industrialist. This museum has rotating contemporary artists on the 1st, 4th and sculpture on the 7th floor terrace. The main exhibit was Gösta Adrian-Nilsson (GAN 1884-1965) with all art from 1916-20 entitled “Sailor Compositions and Dynamics of the City” – his won style of cubist, futuristic art using bright colours. GAN was gay, liked young sailors and this part was scandalous at the time. Unfortunately there is not one word of English (which I find really detracts from the exhibits). Closed Mondays and Tuesdays, hours 11-7, 9 on Thursdays. SEK 120, 100 reduced*
Strindberg Museum. John August Strindberg (1849-1912) was a novelist, playwright (wrote 60 plays) and essayist – his dramas are still performed and he remains popular in Sweden. He lived in several places in Europe from 1883-99), was married 3 times having children with each wife. He was controversial in his opinions, personality and writing – supported labour and disliked the military, war and the monarchy, was an atheist (but converted in later life), a misogynist, and anti-Semitic. His passions were the guitar, photography, painting (one of his paintings sold for SEK 29.4 million) and reading (library has 6,8800 books). He moved into this apartment in 1908. When he died there were 60,000 lining the streets for his funeral. It is on the 4th floor of the building. SEK75, 50 reduced*
Stockholm Waterfront Congress Centre. This has Waterfront Building (for offices), Radisson Blu Stockholm Waterfront (for hotel) and Stockholm Waterfront (for congresses) and was opened in 2011. The stainless façade was constructed from duplex stainless steel Z-profiles, 3 to 16 metres (9.8 to 52.5 ft) in length, approx. 26 kilometres (16 mi) in total. Fingerprint resistant austenitic stainless steel is used for interior window and door frames.
Dance Museum. This museum represents the personal collection of Rolf de Mara (1888-1096) who loved the arts especially ballet and dance. He was the director of the Ballet Suédeis in Paris for 5 years. He traveled a great deal in the 1930s and the exhibits from all over the world consist of puppets, masks, costumes, miniature theatres, and many others. He was openly gay and the grandson of Wilhemina Hallwyl. SEK 120, 80 reduced*
GAMLA STAN
Bonde Palace. A palace in Gamla stan, it is the most prominent monument of the era of the Swedish Empire (1611–1718). In 1662-1667 it was the private residence of the Lord High Treasurer Gustaf Bonde (1620–1667) and still bears his name. It was the Stockholm Court House from the 18th century and since 1949, the Swedish Supreme Court. On the south side of the building is the square Riddarhustorget. It can’t be visited.
Riddarholm Church. The Riddarholmen Church was built in conjunction with King Magnus Ladulås’s founding of the Franciscan monastery for the Grey Brother monks in Stockholm in 1270 and was completed in circa 1300. Today, the church has three naves but originally it had two. It was not until the 1400s that south nave was built. The floor of the church was originally paved with cobble stones but today is made up of grave slabs from different epochs.
A burial and memorial church. Since 1807 the church has functioned solely as a burial and memorial church and regular mass is not performed here. The church is primarily known as the final resting place of the Swedish kings.
The first king to be buried here was Magnus Ladulås (died 1290). He rests in the chancel in front of the altar to the left and at his right side lies Karl Knutsson Bonde (died 1470).
The mausoleums were built in 1573 and 1574 by Johan III. The kings’ original graves are situated under the mausoleums. If one stands facing the alter one can see the Gustavian chapel built 1629–1643. “Gustavus Adolphus Magnus”
Gustav II Adolf (died 1632) rests in the large Italian marble sarcophagus with the inscription “Gustavus Adolphus Magnus”. In the lower crypt, which is not open to visitors, lies king Adolf Fredrik (died 1771), Gustaf III (died 1792), Gustav IV Adolf (died 1837) and Karl XIII (died 1818).
The Karolinska Chapel. Across from the Gustavian chapel is the Karolinska chapel, built 1671-1743. Karl XII (died 1718) rests in a black marble sarcophagus.
By the left and respectively right walls stand the sarcophaguses of Fredrik I (died 1751) and Ulrika Eleonora the Younger (died 1741). In the Karolinska crypt, rests Karl X Gustav (died 1660) and Hedvig Eleonora (died 1715), Karl XI (died 1697) and Ulrica Eleonora the Elder (died 1693) as well as five of their children who died in infancy.
The Bernadotte Chapel. Built in 1858–1860, is situated on the same side of the church as the Gustavian chapel. The dynasty’s earliest ancestor, Karl XIV Johan (died 1844), rests in a stately sarcophagus of Älvedalen porphyry. In front of him lies Queen Desideria (died 1860) in a sarcophagus of green marble from Kolmården. By the walls stand brown limestone sarcophaguses for other Bernadotte dynasty regents.
The last monarch to be buried in the Riddarholm Church was Gustaf V (died 1950).
The Royal graveyard at Haga. Gustaf VI Adolf (died 1973) and both of his consorts Crown Princess Margareta (died 1920) and Queen Louise (died 1965) were buried at the Royal graveyard at Haga.
The Haga Wall. The seraphim shields that belong to the Royal Family members buried at Haga are now gathered on a wall at the Ridderholm Church.
The coat of arms in Riddarholmen Church. On the death of a Knight or Member of the Order, his (her) coat of arms will be mounted in Riddarholmen Church on the occasion of the funeral of the deceased Knight or Member. SEK 50, 40 reduced*
Storkyrkan (Church of St. Nicholas). Sweden’s national cathedral Stockholm Cathedral and the 4-aisle church with brick rib vaulted ceiling and brick columns. Highlights include the black alter and richly carved wood/gilt pulpit and 2 crowns, rose window. Murals in half the right-sided aisles have been uncovered. SEK 60, 50 reduced*
Nobel Museum. Alfred Nobel (1833-96). The Nobel Foundation was founded in 1900. 4 societies determine the winners of the 5 categories. The award is given on Dec 10 each year, the date of his death – the Peace Prize in Oslo and the others in Stockholm. 935 to date, 24 to organisations. You must be alive to receive it – there are no posthumous awards. About 400 nomination are received from previous winners or members of any government and must be received by Jan 31. The academies have 9 months to decide. Each academy has 5 members that decide. The winners are given to the Foundation who must vote 26/50 to have a winner. Some years there are no winners. The decisions of the academies are sealed for 50 years. Once decided, it cannot be rescinded. The peace prize must be decided for the previous year and the others can be decades later. Prize is now 9 million SEK.
Many vignettes and personal momentoes of winners. Martin Luther King gets a big room. Kiosks from each decade allow research to find out all the winners. SEK 150, 120 reduced*
Royal Palace (Stockholm Palace) The largest of the attractions in the district, it is one of the largest palaces in the world with over 600 rooms. In addition to the reception rooms, there are several interesting museums in the Palace, including the Royal Armory, with royal costumes and armor and the Treasury. Don’t miss the parade of soldiers and the daily changing of the guard. Tour of Royal Apartments extra SEK20
Hall of State (King opened parliament here form 1775-1975. Has 1650 silver throne). 3 rooms of royal orders (these are a dime a dozen). Guest apartments for visiting heads of state (used 2-4 times a year). State Apartments (state banquets, Nobel Lauriat dinner, cabinet meetings – all over the top gilt, marble, tapestries, painted ceilings, furniture, inlaid floors, crystal chandeliers, glass cases full of porcelain, ivory, amber, silver). Treasury (nothing special compared to the British Crown Jewells, no big rocks). SEK 180*, includes apartments, Tre Kronor, Treasury, and Gustav III Antiquities.
Under the Bridges Boat Tour. I went on the 6pm tour on July 30. Pick up tickets at the Stromma kiosk at the head of the inlet near the Royal Palace. Departs from here also. Lasts 2¼ hours. The tour goes around the large island of Södermalm passing under mostly high traffic bridges and 2 locks into and out of the lake. Then it is a quick detour out the channel to the south of Djugården and back to the departing dock.
The commentary is good giving a lot of Swedish philosophy and background. The views though are not so interesting, a lot of apartment buildings. SEK 290, no reduction*
Day 4
TOUR OF STOCKHOLM METRO STATIONS
Stockholm’s subway system is truly one of a kind – one hundred stations, each with unique art on its platform, walls or waiting hall. Since 1957 artists have played a key role when new stations have been built. And over time the metro’s older stations – planned and built without any art – have been spruced up with beautiful statues, murals, and installations. So spending a day in Stockholm’s metro is basically like visiting the world’s longest art exhibition.
Stockholm’s politicians were indifferent to the idea of stations being anything else than functional pit-stops. They were content with having billboard ads on the walls. It wasn’t until after a decade’s worth of discussions, debates, and op-eds by the Swedish art community that art got its place in the subway. The artists pointed to Sweden’s long history of public art displays as their most important argument Public art is considered to be democratic art because it gives everyone the opportunity to experience good quality art in their everyday lives. And not only people who can afford to buy art or visit galleries and museums.
And when T-Centralen and Gamla Stan were being planned – two new stations that would connect the southern and northern lines to one single stretch of subway tracks – a contest was organized to determine the artwork. Only art based on the artist’s submissions was looked at. They never bring suggestions to the table beforehand. And besides, there’s no rule that says that subway art must have a literal connection to a station. Download the app with maps on the art from sl.se/en.
Since then, public art has become an integral part of Stockholm’s subway. Over time all the early stations have been either redecorated or had artworks installed.
Here’s just a small sample of the beauty waiting to be discovered below ground.
T-Centralen, the main hub of Stockholm’s subway, opened up in 1957 and was the first station to feature artwork. The blue line-platform, is hands down one of the public transport system’s most recognizable places. But it didn’t open until 1975 when the blue line to Hjulsta was completed. Blue has aesthetic values but also a relaxing effect. This is a station where people are in a hurry. They are changing trains to another metro line or another commuter train. So the blue color together with the simple motifs – stylized flowers and leaf creepers – gives passengers pause and a chance to clear their mind.
RED LINE
Stadion (Red line). Each year Östermalms IP serves as the main festival area for the Stockholm Pride festival. By coincidence, the nearby subway station, Stadion, happens to have a beautiful rainbow in vivid colors painted against the bright blue of the station’s cave walls to welcome festival goers.
The station is one of Stockholm’s first cave stations, a controversial subject when it was built in 1973. Bringing the sky underground also reminds passengers of Stadion’s significance in sport’s history. Close by is The Stockholm Olympic Stadium, the site for the 1912 Olympics and each year between 1913 and 1965 the Swedish bandy finals. Today, Stadion is still one of Stockholm’s great arenas and regularly hosts sports events and concerts.
Östermalmstorg (Red line). At 23 meters below sea level, Östermalmstorg is the third deepest subway station. Completed in 1965, it lies in the heart of the city’s poshest and most expensive boroughs; Östermalm.
Although the station displays several works of art by different artists, the centerpiece is Siri Derkert’s sketches adorning the station walls. The pictures blasted into pitch-black rock walls covered in white concrete, are both playful and personal. The word “peace” is written in different languages, you will see portraits of people that had been working for the environment and with women’s rights issues.
Tekniska Högskolan (Red line). Kungliga Tekniska Högskolan (KTH Royal Institute of Technology) was founded in 1827 and the metro arrived in 1973. The station is a celebration of the scientific advances and discoveries. Five regular polyhedra located on the platform, each one representing one of Plato’s five elements: fire, water, air, earth, and ether. Also Copernican heliocentrism, Polhem’s mechanical alphabet, Newton’s three laws of motion and da Vinci’s attempts at creating a flying machine.
Mörby Centrum (Red line) – Colorful tile work embedded in the bedrock, the color scheme is light and almost subdued. The walls actually change color depending on where you stand on the platform. From one end the room appears white with a light shade of pink, and from the other white and grayish green. The effect was achieved by first lighting the wall and painting its shadows from one side, and then from the other. The effect was to emphasize the changing landscape on a journey, not only on the platform itself but more importantly from your starting point to your destination.
GREEN LINE
Thorildsplan (Green line). Thorildsplan is one of only three street-level surface stations in downtown Stockholm. The station was built in 1952, but the pixelated artwork is a more recent addition. The street crossings, rondos, elevated sidewalks, elevators, and stairs reminded him of intricate video game levels. Clearly, this also resulted in a work that visually is rooted in 8-bit aesthetics – a source of inspiration that runs through his whole body of work – with pixelated clouds, mushroom power-ups, and projectiles.
Bagarmossen (Green line). Bagarmossen’s old subway station is to date the first and only to have been closed down and taken out of service. Where it once was situated at surface-level there now are residential buildings. The old station opened in 1958 and was the terminus for the green line no. 17 until 1994 when the subway was extended to Skarpnäck to the south. To accommodate the underground extension, the old Bagarmossen station had to be taken out of use, and a new one was built underground. And with the new station came new beautiful art; Gert Marcus screen painted glass-plates adorning the walls. The art doesn’t represent anything particular. But it is typical of Marcus’s oeuvre to work with color denominations in almost seamless transitions.
Citybanan – Odenplan (Green line). Citybanan, a new track for Stockholm’s commuter trains that connects T-Centralen directly with Odenplan, was completed in 2017 with new platforms and new art by 14 artists on the stations.
Hanging down from the ceiling of Odenplan’s western entrance hallway, “Life Line” is one of Citybanans most eye-catching pieces – jagged white lines of fluorescent light, shining brightly in the tunnels. Obviously, the 400 meters of LED-lighting serves a practical purpose, but they’re also of a personal nature – the shape of the lights was inspired by the heartbeats of the artist’s son, as shown on the CTG-monitor during the childbirth.
Hötorget (Green line). In 1952, Hötorget was built as the southern terminus of Stockholm’s second subway line, going northwest to the then newly built suburb of Vällingby. As with all below-surface stations from the early 1950’s (other examples being Slussen, Medborgarplatsen, Skanstull, Odenplan, and Rådmansgatan) Hötorget’s walls are covered in square bathroom tiles. In fact, none of the early metro stations had any public art at the time of their opening.
In 1998, Gun Gordillo’s bright neon-lights were installed in the ceiling of Hötorget. By that time the original interior had become classic and was left virtually untouched. The tile work, platform signs, benches – even wastebaskets – were preserved to keep the 50’s atmosphere.
BLUE LINE
Kungsträdgården (Blue line) One of Stockholm’s most stunning stations is also one of its most photographed: Kungsträdgården. Located in the middle of downtown Stockholm, it’s the terminus of the blue line, or at least until its southward extension opens in 2025.
Kungsträdgården is one of Stockholm’s oldest public parks. The name, roughly meaning “The King’s Garden”, is derived from the area’s royal history. Between 1643 and 1825 it was the site of the majestic Makalös Palace, and a beautiful French garden was built. After Makalös burned down, the site was used for military exercises. Finally, in 1875, the park landed in the care of the Stockholm City Council, which in turn opened it for the public.
Almost everything on the station tells the story of the site above ground – its history, former and current buildings. The color scheme – red, white and green – is a reference to the old French formal garden and statues around the station are actually replicas of Makalös Palace’s exterior art.
Another unique feature of Kungsträdgården is its unique fauna. The station is the only place in Northern Europe where the cave-dwelling Lessertia dentichelis-spider can be found. Presumably, the species hitched a ride on equipment and machines traveling from Southern Europe when the station was being built. They seem to be thriving. In 2016 scientists also discovered a previously unknown fungus on the station walls with a unique DNA-structure.
Solna Strand (Blue line). The contrast between the heavenly cubes – jutting out from the ceiling and platform at Solna Strand – and the dark cave, is characteristic of Takashi Naraha’s art. The Japanese artist often uses a ying and yang-theme in his work, a balance between light and darkness. The platform’s cubes mirror the open sky above ground, the black cube just outside the station entrance relates to the dark cave below ground.
Tensta (Blue line). The Suburb of Tensta was built between 1966 and 1972 for more residential housing and the station was ready in 1975. The platform has a colorful display of animal sculptures and stylized leaves against a bright white wall. As Tensta is majority immigrants to Sweden, the artists wanted the station to feel welcoming no matter where you have roots. The various pieces are called “A rose for the immigrants”, “Solidarity”, “Kinship”. The words written around the station are a celebration of all the people from different cultures living in Tensta.
Solna Centrum (Blue line). Opened in 1975. The bright green and red landscape – the green being the forest and the red an evening sun setting behind the treetops – is both timeless in its beauty, but also something that few other stations artwork is; political. The artists continued adding various details and scenes to the forest in an Improvised way. This resulted in pictures that illustrated some of the most debated societal issues in 70’s era Sweden; the environment, over logging of the forest and the depopulation of rural areas.
Hallonbergen (Blue line) Constructed in the mid 70s, with the vivid imagination of a child, with colorful drawings of fantastical beasts and imaginative contraptions.
DJUGÅRDEN
This tranquil island has many attractions, parks and museums, all included in the Stockholm Card. The island has been in the possession of the crown since the 15th century. Reach via the free ferry from central Stockholm.
Grona Lund. Started in 1916, this amusement park is packed all the time. It has 31 rides, 10 restaurants, 15 food kiosks and many “skill” games. SEK 120, free if over 65
I camped at Grona Lund overnight, did a short subway tour in the early morning and saw the next 4 places.
Vasa Museum. The Vasa was built between 1626-28 as the greatest war ship of its time with 64 cannons on 2 cannon decks. Ordered by King Gustave Adolphus, it was built by 2 Dutch shipbuilders. Its walls were 69 centimeters thick. There was room for 450 men on the ship – 145 mariners and 300 soldiers and at least 2 women. It was a time capsule of 17th century Swedish society. The high stern was adorned with more than 700 sculptures of sea creatures, tritons, Bible references, mythology, sagas, fables, grotesque heads, Roman warriors (the king compared himself to Roman emperors) and several tributes to the king with his family crests. 11 sculptures were tributes to the Swedish people and 6 of these were women. All were lavishly painted. The ship had 1200m2 of sails made of canvas made from flax and the ropes were all hemp. The capstans to raise and lower sails and the anchor required 16 men to turn. There were only 2 latrines, both on the beakhead.
Stockholm had 15,000 citizens at the time and many were out to view its maiden voyage on August 10, 1628. Within a kilometer of the dock, a second small gust of wind caused the ship to list over to port, the gun ports took in water, and it sank in a few minutes in 30m of water. The design was poor and very top heavy with only 120 tons of stone ballast. It was 4 stories high without the rear deck and very narrow. The gun ports were too low and close to the waterline (with more ballast, they would have taken in water in rough seas). At least 50 men drowned. The men below deck had no chance to survive.
50 cannon were salvaged in the 1660s using diving bells but it was not until 1961 that it was finally raised and recovered. After 333 years in water, it was amazingly well preserved. As the Baltic Sea is only brackish water, there was no damage from shipworms that would have destroyed the ship in more salty water. In 30m of water, the water was low in oxygen and it avoided damage from ship traffic and was soon covered in silt and mud. No other ship of its age was as well preserved with 90% of it intact. The salvage operation was a massive affair as it was 700 tons and had to made water tight to raise as most of the bolts had rusted and had to be plugged. Over the next 17 years, it was sprayed with propylene glycol to replace all the water in the water and prevent rotting of the wood. All the bolts were replaced with stainless steel bolts to prevent rust from further damaging the wood.
Several bodies were well preserved and 15 skeletons were examined determining their illnesses. Most of the sculptures were in excellent shape. It was determined that the cannons had all been secured and were not the cause of the capsize. Putting it back together was like the world’s biggest jigsaw puzzle. 4 kilometers of rope was used to rerigg the sails.
The museum is a wonderful exposition with the ship in the center of 7 floors of exhibits. The top of the mast project out through the roof. Start with a 20-minute video that explains much of the ship, the salvage operation and reconstruction. There is one room explaining the role women had in construction and on the vessel.
A 1:10 scale model painted in all the vivid colours is wonderful.
15 sculptures are shown completely painted as in 1668. Life on board is well detailed in several exhibits. A shipyard shows how ships were built in the age of the Vasa. Guided tours are available. SEK 150, no reduction
Nordisk Museum. This showcases Swedish home life: Sami people, small things, furniture, homes and interiors, festivals, traditions and how they are celebrated (especially the food), doll houses, jewelry, a 1940s flat, 1950s,
Skansen Open-Air Museum. This is a very large collection of Swedish old buildings relocated from all over Sweden: a Sami camp, mining, forestry, several farmsteads, crofters and a Town quarter with many crafts (but most could not be entered). Also a children’s zoo, farm animals and the Skogaholm Manor. A funicular (€3) takes you up the short hill and is unnecessary. SEK 220, 190 reduced*
Skansen Aquarium. Part of Skansen Open-Air Museum, it has a separate entry fee. It is more than an aquarium which is quite small having baboons, snakes, lizards, frogs (including 3 very nice poison frogs from South America) plus the alligator snapping turtle. Storyboards were in Swedish only. SEK 120, no reduction*
Rosendal Palace. King Karl XIV Johan bought this country estate in 1817 and renovated the interior in a Parisian Empire style with furnishings, mahagony, hand woven rugs, silk wall coverings, and porphyry vases. It is small and not very interesting. Only seen by guided tour by a real snot of a woman. SEK 100, no reduction*
Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde. Prins Eugen (1865-1947) acquired this property at the turn of the 20th century and built this home, park and gardens. He was an avid art collector amassing a collection of 7000 Swedish artists. The museum opened in 1948 and is a wonderful place with part his living quarters with period furniture, parquet floors, ceramic stoves and big windows. The ceilings in the 3rd floor are all sloped creating a stunning place. The exhibit here is entitled “Encountering the North”.
A large part of the exhibit showcases artists who lived in the Grez artist’s colony from the 1870s. Plein air painting was their forte and there is a lot of enjoyable art here – again with several by Carl Larsson (1853-1919) who I have seen before and love his water colours. There was also a great deal of photography. SEK 150, 130 reduced*
Carl Larsson
Thiel Gallery. This museum is filled with turn-of-the-century Nordic art. The building was created for the banker and art collector Ernest Thiel and his family and sits on the Blockhusudden headland in the beautiful district of Djurgärden. At the turn of the 20th century, in the golden age of industrialism, Ernest Thiel was one of the richest men in the country. His fortune came from finance and investing in mining operations in northern Sweden. Art was his great passion and the gallery was constructed in 1904-07 for his vast collection. The building is magnificent geometric art nouveau with clean surfaces, and sparse décor “it is to be a home with art on every wall”. All the ceilings on the top floor are glass giving great light.
Thiel lost almost his entire fortune in the stock market crashes that followed WW I. In 1924, the house, furnishings and art was bought by the Swedish state and opened as a museum in 1924.
Artists showcased are Anders Zorn, Bruno Liljefors, Carl Larsson (my favourite), Carl Wilhelmser (1866-1928) and Edvard Munch. There was a large exhibit of sculptures by the Norwegian Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943) whose park in Oslo is well worth seeing. In one magnificent large room is the “grand sofa”, a real piece of art. Auguste Rodin has sculptures in the gallery and garden. Thiel’s urn is interred in the rock beneath Rodin’s sculpture the Shadow. I like all the art.
Unfortunately, there is not a word of English. SEK 130, 100 reduction*
OSTERMALM
This area of Stockholm has many museums. Besides these three, there is a Police Museum and The Swedish Sports Museum.
Maritime Museum. Exhibits on the Swedish East India Company and its involvement in the tea trade. The Amphion was a pleasure ship for King Gustav III built in 1780. Many warship models. Free
Museum of Technology. Showcasing Swedish Technology, there are exhibits on video games, and Christopher Polheim who in the 1600s was light years ahead of other inventors. Very interesting. Free.
Museum of Ethnography. This is a great museum with uncharacteristic displays for a museum. Start with hundreds of glass cases with items stored by material (to make storage and conservation easier), not place or time. Another exhibit was on Swedish photographers traveling around the world from 1862-1918. Has over a million artifacts. Also Native People in Three Climates (Arctic, Australia, Amazon), Japan (Samurai, no-masks, Ainu people, tea ceremonies), Swedish Missionary Exhibition to the Congo in 1907. Outside is a totem pole from the Haisla First Nation in British Columbia. It was a gift from them for returning the 1870 old Haisla G’psolox totem pole brought to Sweden in 1929. Free
STOCKHOLM ARCHIPELAGO
This is the largest archipelago in Sweden, and the second-largest archipelago in the Baltic Sea (the largest being across the Baltic in Finland).
The water has a pH value of 7.0 (neutral) or slightly lower, to be compared with approximately 8.0 for seawater. Together with humic substances this sometimes causes a bit brownish water colour, especially in the inner parts. The salinity varies between freshwater and brackish water with poor salinity. In the outer parts of the archipelago, the salinity reaches around 0.6–0.7 per cent by weight, to be compared with at least 1.5 for beginning to taste salty and around 3.0 or more for proper oceanic water. Sea ice is regularly formed in the inner parts every winter.
Geography. The archipelago extends from Stockholm roughly 60 kilometres to the east. It is separated from Åland by a stretch of water named South Kvarken. A separate group of islands lies further north, near the town of Öregrund. Between Arholma and Landsort there are approximately 24,000 islands and islets. Some of the better-known islands are Dalarö, Finnhamn, Nässlingen, Grinda, Husarö, Ingarö, Ljusterö, Möja, Nämdö, Rödlöga, Tynningö, Utö, Svartsö and Värmdö.
The biggest towns of the archipelago, apart from Stockholm, are Nynäshamn, Vaxholm and Norrtälje. The village of Ytterby, famous among chemists for naming no fewer than four chemical elements (erbium, terbium, ytterbium and yttrium), is situated on Resarö in the Stockholm archipelago.
The shipping routes from the Baltic to Stockholm pass through the archipelago. There are three main entrances suitable for deep-draught craft, namely, those near Landsort, Sandhamn, and Söderarm.
History. The Stockholm archipelago is a joint valley landscape that has been shaped – and is still being shaped – by post-glacial rebound. It was not until the Viking Age that the archipelago began to assume its present-day contours. The islands rise by about three millimeters each year. In 1719 the archipelago had an estimated population of 2,900, consisting mostly of fishermen. Today the archipelago is a popular holiday destination with some 50,000 holiday cottages (owned mainly by Stockholmers). The Stockholm Archipelago Foundation, dedicated to the preservation of the nature and culture of the archipelago, owns some 15% of its total area.
The inhabitants in the archipelago, from around the mid-1400s to the end of the second world war, were combined farmers and fishermen. Spring and autumn fishing was quite intensive in the outer archipelago from 1450 until the mid-1800s, and many fishermen lived for long periods in the outer islands because of the long distances to their permanent houses in the inner archipelago. The combined farming and fishing culture lasted until around 1950–1955 when the younger generation, born during and directly after the war, started to leave the archipelago and look for jobs in the cities on the mainland. Today most of the small farms on the islands are closed and the fishing industry has almost disappeared.
Boating is an extremely popular activity with the sailing race Ornö runt (or Around the island of Ornö) being the largest in the archipelago.
Visiting the larger islands in the archipelago is easy all year round, but during winter period the routes depend on the ice conditions. Several companies have regular routes. In summer the archipelago bristles with private boats filled with people who often take advantage of Allemansrätt (or “everyman’s right”), a law which gives anyone the right to go ashore or anchor on any ground not in the direct vicinity of buildings.
Bogesund Castle. Built in the 1640s by Per Brahe the Younger, Lord High Steward and close advisor to the king. The Brahe family was part of the Swedish nobility. He called it a house.
The building was originally square with 4 man floors, 2 in the attic and a roof terrace with great views. The heart of the castle has been preserved from this time. The castle name came later after remodeling in the 1860s by a new owner when it got its fairytale appearance and 7-story towers, chapel and two gardens. After many years of decay, the government expropriated the castle in 1946. It has stood empty for over 100 years making it a home for the upper echelons of society protected from modernization and unchanged for 300 years. In 2011-12, the windows and façade were renovated and painted the same colour as the 1860s.
It is not open to the public. I peered through the windows and the fairly modern kitchen and the chapel look regularly used.
Vaxholm Fortress. This is a historic fortification on the island of Vaxholmen in the Stockholm archipelago just east of the Swedish town of Vaxholm. The fortress is accessed by the Kastellet ferry, an electrically powered cable ferry across the channel from Vaxholm town.
In 1970, it was used as a movie location for the pirate stronghold in Pippi in the South Seas. A scenic view of the castle may be seen from the car ferry which plies the short distance between Vaxholm and the island Rindö.
History. The fortress was originally constructed by Gustav Vasa in 1544 to defend Stockholm against shipborne attacks from the east, but most of the current structure dates from 1833–1863. Russian prisoners-of-war were used in part to build the fortress. The stretch of water below the building was formerly the main sea route to Stockholm. Thus, the fortress was strategically situated to defend the city from naval attacks. The Danes attacked it in 1612 and the Russian navy in 1719.
Since the mid 19th century, its military importance has ceased. So weak had the fort become that it was said the great Prussian Field Marshal von Moltke was only ever seen to smile twice. Once when they told him his mother-in-law was dead and again when he saw Vaxholm Fort. Today, it is home to the Swedish National Museum of Coastal Defence.
This completely renovated fortress sits on its own island off the coast of Vaxholm Island. It is an imposing fortress with high walls and many cannon ports.
The museum can only be visited by groups with a reservation. It presents the history of the fortress and coastal defense since the 16th century. There is a film. Also in the fortress is the Kastellet Bed & Breakfast, an art gallery and the Pansarbatteriet Restaurant. Reach by a short ferry ride (SEK 40) from the city of Vaxholm. Museum SEK 80
Artipelag Art Gallery. Located on Värmdö, this is a unique destination with art, design, and architecture. SEK 185. Boat Tour: Adult: SEK 380 – both free with Stockholm Pass.
FERRY FROM SWEDEN to FINLAND
Departs from Kapellskär, Sweden about 80kms east of Stockholm on the east coast and arrives at Naantali, Finland, just north of Turku. I took the overnight ferry departing at 9pm and arriving at 7:15am with a stop in Lumparland in the Åland Islands. Cost a whopping €336. It is quite straightforward to book at www.finnlines.com but I had questions and phoned +46 771340900 (Sweden). One must book a cabin – it is not possible to bring a sleeping bag and sleep on the floor like every other overnight ferry I have been on. Two meals, a buffet dinner and breakfast are included. I was given a “special deal” – sleeping in a cabin where pets had been in the past and saved €100, so I paid €231. Other than the departure at 9pm Sweden time, the ship and arrival times are Finland time, one hour ahead.
Kappellskä is nothing but a ferry terminal so it is an easy place to navigate. I ended up with a 2-bed inside cabin with a complete bathroom and a TV. I was again in need of a shower, so that was very much appreciated.
The buffet dinner was very good and I ate a lot of the fall-off-the-bone pork spareribs.
NOMAD MANIA Sweden – Svealand (Stockholm, Örebro, Karlstad)
World Heritage Sites:da
Birka and Hovgården
Engelsberg Ironworks
High Coast / Kvarken Archipelago
Mining Area of the Great Copper Mountain in Falun
Royal Domain of Drottningholm
Skogskyrkogården
Tentative WHS: The Rise of Systematic Biology (02/12/2009)
Sights: Sigtuna
Islands
Ekerö
Gräsö
Selaön
Svartsjölandet
Vaddö and Björkö
Värmdö
Borders:
Norway-Sweden
Sweden (sea border/port)
XL: Märket Reef
Airports: Are Ostersund (OSD)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars
Engelsberg–Norberg Railway
Inlandsbanan
Sweden Intercity Railway Experience
Museums:
Karlstad: Värmlands Museum
Örebro: Örebro County Museum
Östersund: Jamtli
House Museums/Plantations: Borlange: The Jussi Bjorling museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts
Mariefred: Gripsholm Castle
Rosersberg: Rosersberg Palace
Skokloster: Skokloster Castle
Strömsholm: Strömsholm Palace
Ulriksdal: Ulriksdal Palace
Vagnhärad: Tullgarn Palace
Vaxholm: Vaxholm Fortress
World of Nature
Ängsö
Fulufjället
Sonfjallet
Töfsingdalen
Tyresta
Festivals:
Peace and Love Festival
Re:Orient Festival
Summerburst
Uppsala: Sweden International Improv Festival
Zoos:
Eskilstuna: Parken Zoo
Orsa Grönklitt
Solna: Butterfly House
Planetariums: Borlänge: Kosmorama Planetarium
Theme Parks
Mora: Santaworld
Gröna Lund
Waterfalls: Njupeskär
Ski Resorts:
Sälen Ski Resort
Ski Branäs Fritidscenter
Open-Air Museums: Bergslagen: Ecomuseum
Railway Museums: Grängesberg: Grängesberg Regional Railway Museum
Vehicle Museums: Södertälje: Marcus Wallenberg-hallen
Villages and Small Towns
Nora
Norrtälje
Rättvik
NYKOPING
Airports: Nyköping (NYO)
Museums: Nykoping: Sormlands Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Nyköping: Nyköping Castle
DROTTNINGHOLM
World Heritage Sites: Royal Domain of Drottningholm
Sights: Drottningholm Palace
Castles, Palaces, Forts:
Drottninghol
Drottningholm: Drottningholm Palace
FALUN
World Heritage Sites: Mining Area of the Great Copper Mountain in Falun
Museums: Falun: Dalarnas Museum
Planetariums: Falun: Stella Nova Planetarium
European Cities
STOCKHOLM World Capital, World City and Popular Town
World Heritage Sites: Skogskyrkogården
Sights:
ABBA City Walk, Stockholm
Gamla Stan (Stockholm)
Stockholm archipelago
Airports:
Arlanda (ARN)
Bromma (BMA)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars
Kungsträdgården Metro Station, Stockholm
Rådhuset station, Stockholm
Stockholm Metro
Stockholm Trams
T-Centralen Station, Stockholm
Museums:
ABBA: The Museum
Dance Museum
Hallwyl Museum
Jewish Museum of Sweden
Modern Museum
Museum of Ethnography
Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities
Museum of Medieval Stockholm
Nationalmuseum
Nobel Museum
Nordic Museum
Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde
Royal Coin Cabinet
Sven-Harry’s Art Museum
Swedish Army Museum
Swedish Centre for Architecture and Design
Swedish History Museum
Swedish National Museum of Science and Technology
Swedish Royal Museum of Natural History
Thiel Gallery
House Museums/Plantations:
Prince Eugen’s Waldemarsudde
Strindberg Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts
Bogesund Castle
Bonde Palace
Stockholm Palace (Royal Palace) (Sight)
Religious Temples:
German Church (Tyska Kyrkan)
Riddarholm Church
Storkyrkan (Church of St. Nicholas)
Modern Architecture Buildings:
Stockholm Waterfront Building
Aula Medica, Karolinska institutet
Flat Iron Building
Globen (Ericsson Globe)
Kungstornen
Victoria Tower
Entertainment/Things to do: Södra Teatern, Stockholm
Botanical Gardens: Bergianska trädgården
Aquariums: Stockholm: Skansen Aquarium
Theme Parks: Gröna Lund
Malls/Department Stores:
Stockholm: Mall of Scandinavia
Stockholm: Nordiska Kompaniet
Markets: Stockholm: Hornstulls Marknad
Monuments:
Stockholm: Branting Monument
Stockholm: Iron Boy
Stockholm: Statue of Evert Taube
Maritime/Ship Museums:
Stockholm: af Chapman
Stockholm: National Maritime Museum
Stockholm: Vasa Museum (Sight)/ Finngrundet
Open-Air Museums: Stockholm: Skansen (Sight)
Railway Museums: Stockholm: Tramway Museum
Bizzarium: Stockholm: R1 Nuclear Reactor
UPPSALA
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Uppsala-Lenna Järnväg
Museums:
Biotopia
Gustavianum
Museum of Evolution of Uppsala University
Museum of Medical History
Upplandsmuseet
Uppsala Art Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Uppsala: Uppsala Castle
Religious Temples: Uppsala Cathedral (Sight)
Botanical Gardens: Linaeus Garden
Markets: Vaksala Torg
VÄSTERÅS
Airports: Västerås Airport (VST)
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Tido Castle
Religious Temples: Vasteras Cathedral
Open-Air Museums: Vallby Open Air Museum
Aviation Museums: Västerås Flygmuseum