Lithuania – Šiauliai, Panevėžys, Utena July 3-4, 2019
On July 2, I saw these 2 castles from Kaunas and then went north to that part of the country. It was a lovely drive along the Nemunas River that flows through Kaunas.
Raudonė Castle, Raudonė. This originated at the end of the 16th century when a Prussian nobleman built a Renaissance style residence. The present appearance dates from the 19th century when Sofia Pierch Krisanova reconstructed it as a neo-gothic manor. The last owner was the Portuguese Ferio de Castro who lived here for 38 years. The house suffered in WW II as the tower was destroyed by retreating Germans. The 7-story, 33.5m high tower was rebuilt after the war. A 1887 stone mill sits in the pond. The old park has many impressive trees including a lime tree with a metal rod between two trunks at 3m. it was used to punish guilty servants and 7 serfs were whipped to death here.
This 2-story, red brick, U-shaped manor house has nice crenelated round towers on each corner and a large round “keep” on the outside of the south side. There is nothing special inside and people come to climb the tower. €1.50
Panemunė Castle, Pilis. On the former Panemune Estate about 10kms east of Raudoné on the Nemunas River, this castle was completed in 1609-10 as a 2-story square with thick walls and high round towers on two corners surrounding a cobbled courtyard. After 1753, it was abandoned, had two more owners and was eventually refurbished in a lavish style. It was again abandoned after 1831 and had a fire and not until 1930, did it have an owner who finally restored it after WW II. It now belongs to the Vilnius Academy of Fine Arts and houses a 13-room hotel, restaurant and ballroom that can be rented for meetings or weddings.
Only half is restored. The two great corner towers have lovely cross arrow slits. Free
After Pilis, I turned north to drive through lovely rural fields littered with wonderful wood crosses, all different designs but all with a Christ on a crucifix at the top. Many are in groups of 3-5 and generally are sculpted out of a single tree trunk.
ŠIAULIAI
Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul’s Cathedral. This is Lithuania’s most representative example of renaissance-mannerist architecture. Completed in 1625, it has several elements built for defensive purposes – thick walls, a compact form, bow windows on the main façade and gate towers with firing holes. The painting of the Virgin Mary and Infant is the most celebrated painting. It is lovely inside for its austere total whiteness – even the bas-relief Ways of the Cross are white. The windows are a simple geometric plain glass with red dots. The most interesting elements for me were the scallop shell arches in the side aisles. All these RC churches appear to be on the eastern European sections of the Compostella de Santiago. A grand balcony encircles the entire nave.
Angel Museum. On the 3rd floor of a building 60m off the street, dark hallways, and the owner was 20minutes late, this small room of ceramic, clay and other angels was not very inspiring. €1.50
Hill of Crosses. In the NM “Bizzarium” series, this is a small hill with a wood stairs crossing it. The sign says there are 200,000 crosses but I think that is an understatement . There are a few large, well-carved crosses, but most are small and everywhere – stuck in the ground, lying in piles, draped along with rosary beads over everything. The sign says: By continually putting up crosses, people express their devotion to Christ, pray for his help and mercy and identify Lithuania as a Christian land.. The site is a reflection of the nation’s spontaneous religiousness and the place most often visited by pilgrims today. It gained immense significance in the lives of Lithuanian believers during the Soviet era as a sign of resistance to the totalitarian regime. Since is a symbol of the entire nation’s unshakeable faith, its past suffering and hope. Pope John Paul II visited in 1993 and celebrated Hoy Mass for 100,000 people. He gave a cross that was put up in 1994. A Franciscan monastery was built at the foot in 2000. The Feast of the Hill of Crosses draws large crowds each year on the last Sunday of July. Free
Cow’s Cave, A 25km detour, this was a grand waste of time. In Birzu Regional Park, a karst area, there are 7000 sinkholes and this cave. Metal stairs lead down the side of a small sinkhole to a very narrow entrance (?50 x 25cm) that looks like it has not been entered for some time. There was a ribbon across the top of the stairs and chain across the bottom that would not deter anybody keen on continuing. A sign only in Lithuanian has a diagram of the cave – two pools and one short passage.
On top there is a stone statue of a cow and a tree trunk with signs on it indicating the cave – Karva Ola. There are many visible sink holes all over the place. I had lunch in the lot and the only thing that gets much business are the toilets. There is nothing of interest.
Biržai Castle, Biržai. This original castle dates to 1625 built by the Radziwills and was moated with revelins (now dirt embankments). The Swedes blew it up in 1704 and this building dates from 1978-88. The Birzai Duchy (1547-1811) belonged to the Radziwill family coveting 36,000 hectares. This contains the Birzai Regional Museum: watercolours, religious art (vestments, censors, many bibles). Downstairs are stuffed critters, pots, metal, glazed tiles. Upstairs is more recent history typical of most regional museums and of little of interest (except some nice chests, curved inlay table and nice religious wood icons). The castle is already showing wear. Zero English. €3, 2 reduced
PANEVÉŽYS
Istros Aviaparkas – Airplane Museum. About 12kms north of Panevéžys, this small open-air museum had 2 helicopters and 4 jets, all Soviet from the 60s and 70s. Not of much interest. €2
Cathedral of Christ the King. This grand red brick RC church has two towers and the double carving outside dated 1006-2006. Construction was finished in 1933. The ceiling of the apse has a 22m x 14 fresco depicting St Casimir appearing before the Lithuanian soldiers during the 1518 Siege of Polotsk.
Horse museum, Anyksciai. This open-air museum has a hodge-podge of buildings. Start at the green house, a pottery studio, then a blacksmith, then an old house where you get to guess what all the household objects are. The large barn has several wagons designed for specific uses and sleighs. Across the road is a house that showcases two wood carvers. Jurgis Kazlauskas (1914-87) carved a wonderful array of figures from everyday life. The final building has more on the horse with a skeleton, harnesses and more carts. €5, 3 reduced.
Google Maps took me on a real roundabout route. First it tried to route me 10kms north along dirt roads to the back entrance. I turned around and went the normal way via Anyksciai.
Lithuanian Museum of Ethnocosmology, Kulionys. This is an amazing place out in the middle of nowhere. Unfortunately it can only be seen by reserved tour and all tours are in Lithuanian only.
It is a fantastic futuristic place: the visitors center/museum sits under an aluminum disc, an observatory with a giant geodesic glassed disc (the 80cm telescooe?) on top of two huge columns and an observatory (the 40cm telescope?) on another cylinder all in aluminum.
I explored the outside area but all signage is in Lithuanian. A circle of 12 wood carvings of people (representing the months?) surrounding a “raised metal fire pit”. A large stone circle of 18 large stones (9 with small bronze plaques and one with two petroglyphs) alternating with 18 smaller stones and 9 “rays” each with 10 stones all surrounding a large central stone. Around this are 4 planets: a mosaic Jupiter and Uranus and marble Venus and Mars. One of the “rays” has an elaborate sundial not adjusted for daylight savings time.
Tours: Museum – €4.40; Surroundings – €2.20; Outdoor exhibition tour – €2.60.
Educational Programs: Sun watching – 45 minutes €2.50; Night time programme with a 40cm mirror telescope 1-1.5’ – €7; Night time programme with an 80cm telescope 1-1.5’ €9 + various other educational programs.
Aukštaitija National Park. This is a mature mixed forest with primarily pine and a clear understory.
Lithuania Museum of Ancient Beekeeping (Senovines Bitininkysti Muzejiu), Stripeikiai. There are 3 buildings with exhibits: one with flowers commonly visited by bees, one with ancient hives (trees, log trunks (vertical and horizontal usually with roofs), woven straw, mud and wattle) plus implements used in beekeeping. One with art. On the grounds are many signs, carved totems and hives. Zero English. €2, 1 reduced
Druksiai Lake Area
I then crossed from Lithuania into Latvia just south of Daugavpils.
NOMAD MANIA Lithuania – Šiauliai, Panevėžys, Utena
World Heritage Sites: Struve Geodetic Arc
Borders:
Belarus-Lithuania
Latvia-Lithuania
XL: Druksiai Lake Area
Museums:
Kulionys: Lithuanian Museum of Ethnocosmology
Stripeikiai: Lithuania Museum of Ancient Beekeeping
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Biržai: Biržai Castle
World of Nature: Aukštaitija National Park (Sight)
Ski Resorts: Anykščiai
Festivals:
Rock Nights
Saint Jonas’ Festival
Užgavėnės
Windmills Šeduva: Devil’s Mill (Seduvos Malunas?)
Caves: Cow’s Cave
Open-Air Museums: Anyksciai: Horse museum
Bizzarium: Hill of Crosses (Sight)
European Cities
PANEVÉŽYS
Religious Temples: Cathedral of Christ the King
Aviation Museums: Panevezys: Istros Aviaparkas – Airplane Museum
ŠIAULIAI
Museums: Siauliai: Angel Museum
Religious Temples: Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul’s Cathedral