History. Recorded Tibetan history began in the 7th century AD, when Tibetan armies under King Songstsen Gampo occupied Nepal and collected tribute from parts of Yunnan. They moved north and took control of the Silk Road and the great trade center of Kashgar and sacked Xi’an. In 842, it broke into independent feuding principalities. The increasing influence of Buddhism ensured that the Tibetan armies would never again leave the high plateau.
By the 7th century, Buddhism had spread throughout Tibet in a unique form, as it adopted many of the rituals of Bon (the indigenous pre-Buddhist belief system of Tibet – prayer flags, pilgrimage circuits and sacred landscapes all have their roots in the Bon religion). Power politics entered religion in 1641 when the Gelugpa (“Yellow Hat” order) used Mongol troops to crush the Sakyapa, their rivals. The Gelugapa leader adopted the title of Dalai Lama (Ocean of Wisdom) presiding over both religion and politics.
With the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911, Tibet entered a period of de facto independence that lasted until 1950 when the resurgent communist China invaded Tibet, claiming it was ‘liberating’ the one million Tibetans from feudal serfdom and bringing it back into the fold of the motherland. Increasing popular unrest in response to Chinese land reform resulted in a full-blown revolt in 1959, which was crushed by the People’s Liberation Army. Amid popular rumours of a Chinese plot to kidnap him, the Dalai Lama fled to India and was followed by 80,000 of Tibet’s best and brightest, who now represent the Tibetan government in exile from Dharamsala.
The Dalai Lama refers to China’s politics as cultural genocide and is resigned to pushing for autonomy rather than independence, with few results. The Chinese seem to be waiting for him to die so that they can control the future politics of reincarnation. The Dalai Lama’s tireless insistence on a non-violent solution led to him winning the Nobel Peace Prize in 1989. Despite global sympathy, few nations are willing to raise the issue and place new business deals with China’s rising economic superpower at risk.
The Chinese are truly baffled by what they perceive as the continuing ingratitude of the Tibetans. They claim that pre-1959 Tibet was a place of abject poverty and feudal exploitation and they have brought roads, schools, hospitals, airports, factories and rising incomes. Many Tibetans cannot forgive the destruction of hundreds of monasteries and shrines in the 1950s and 1960s, the restriction of religious expression, the continued heavy military presence, economic exploitation and their obvious second-class status within their own land. Riots and protests in the spring of 2008 brought this simmering dissatisfaction out into the open as Lhasa erupted into full-scale riots. Protests spread to other Tibetan areas in Gansu, Sichuan and Qinghai provinces. The Chinese response was arrest, imprisonment and an increased police presence in many monasteries. The increasing desperation led to a spate of self-immolation s by Tibetans across the region. Riot police are armed with fire extinguishers in Lhasa’s old town.
As immigration and breakneck modernization continue, the government is gambling that economic advances will diffuse the Tibetan’ religious and political aspirations. Successful in the rest of China, it remains to be seen whether it will work in Tibet.
Climate. Most of Tibet is a high-altitude desert plateau at more than 4000m. Days in summer (June to September) are warm, sunny and generally dry but temperatures drop quickly after dark and often freezing at night. Thanks to the Himalayan rain shadow there is surprisingly little snow in the ‘Land of Snows’. Sunlight is very strong so use sunscreen liberally.
Language. Most urban Tibetans speak Mandarin in addition to Tibetan. Most restaurants and hotels in the countryside are run by Han or Hui Chinese. Tibetans appreciate it when foreign visitors at least greet them in Tibetan.
Travel Restrictions. Regulations here are much more restrictive than the rest of the nation. Tourists must be part of a guided tour in order to visit any place in the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR). Rather than for protection, this has more to do with foreigners tendency to sympathize with the Tibetan cause and bear witness to political tensions. To see Tibetan culture on your own, you must go to Sichuan or Yunnan.
Foreign travelers need a Tibet Tourism Bureau permit to get into Tibet and an Alien Travel Permit to travel outside of Lhasa. To get these permits, you need to book a tour for your entire stay with transport outside Lhasa before traveling to Tibet. The tour companies arrange the permits.
In the past, groups had to have a minimum number of people (six then four) all from the same nationality, but it is now possible for an individual traveler to join groups or travel alone. To get on a plane or train, it is necessary to show the TTB permit. It must be the original if flying so it must be couriered to you at an address in China. For the train, a copy is satisfactory.
It is not necessary to book transport in Lhasa but need a guide to visit monasteries. It is not possible to travel outside Lhasa independently and cannot take public transport. Agencies can only apply for permits 15 days ahead, so it always a big rush to get permits posted in time, complicating flight and train tickets.
Getting There and Away.
Nepal Route. The 865km road connecting Lhasa with Kathmandu is known as the Friendship Highway. The most common option for foreigners is a 7-day overland budget tour. Flights between the two are also common. Altitude sickness is common. It is especially not recommended to visit Everest Base Camp within a few days of arrival.
Qinghai Route. Trains have much less suffering than the long bus ride from Golmud.
Other Routes. Between Sichuan, Yunnan and Xinjiang provinces are some of the wildest, highest and most remote routes in the world. Expensive overland tours are often the only way to do these with the proper permits. Routes are variably open.
Getting Around. Almost all foreigners travel around Tibet in a rented 4WD. Public buses outside Lhasa are off-limits to foreigners. Cyclists still need a guide and transport, even if you are not traveling in it. For experienced riders, the Kathmandu-Lhasa trip is one of the world’s great rides.