KELLY PEAK 2820m 9252′
Kelly Peak is just east of the watershed, southwest of Mt. Niflheim.
1. Northwest Ridge.
From a helicopter camp above the Odin Creek headwall at the foot of Odin Glacier, ascend to a col and go down snow slopes to the Ten Cent Lakes (173-036). From the vestigial glacier west of Kelly Peak, reach the ridge, cross a boulder field and attain the northwest ridge from the west side. The climbing is more difficult at a notch in the ridge (rappel on descent). Ten hours round trip. (III,5.2,s).
IH, HR, GS, PW, July 30, 1973.
Variation: North Glacier, Northwest Ridge. From a helicopter camp on a knoll below the north face, climb the glacier to a small rock summit with a snow patch on top. Traverse it and go up the northwest ridge. Below the summit, at the notch, the last pitch is 45 meters, which is most difficult at the top (5.2). 268 This party exited along the north side of Thor Creek, and encountered some bears as well as the usual bushwhacking (trail now) and stream crossings. Ice, Glacier (II,5.2,s). John Barton, Kay and Nicholas Dodge, James Petroske, July 30, 1973, the same day as above.
There is a campsite at the Rock Garden at the right angle bend near the headwaters of the south fork of Thor Creek. From the south side of Thor Creek, use the logging road and then trail on the north side of the south fork (see introduction, access, just below the distance tables) to approach.
Variation: NE side north glacier (the southern of the two lobes) starting from the Rock Garden, following the stream from the glacier, on the pitch at the notch below the summit may be avoided by using slabs on the south side, 5 hours from the Rock Garden. Robert Heslop and Dan Robertson, 20/8/1982.
At the KMC climbing camp of 2006, Kelly Peak was approached from a helicopter camp at the lakes south of Gates Peak by climbing the ridge northeast of Spam Peak (173-065; 2.2 km north-northwest of Kelly Peak), bypassing its summit and climbing the 150 meter step (Class 4, loose rock) on the ridge south of Spam Peak. This gains Route 1 (some climbed the glacier instead of the step.
2. South Face. Start from the Ten Cent Lakes (head of north fork of Odin Creek, from the camp above the Odin Creek headwall) and take a straight line to the summit, about 600 vertical meters. Above the talus, climb on the east side of a gully and exit right below the summit. The rock is fairly clean and broken up (slabs), Class 5.4 at the most; 3.5 hours from the lakes. (III,5.4,s).
Paul Allen, Steve Horvath, 30/7/1990.
3. East Ridge. Traverse over Un. 2670m. Climb another unnamed summit via a lovely narrow ridge of white rock, cross a gap between this and the ridge and follow the east ridge to the top. The exposure is sobering on a knife edge or a ridge up to one meter wide. (III,5.3,**).
Steve Horvath, 28/6/1994.
UNNAMED 2670m 8760′
Located on the ridge between Mt. Niflheim and Kelly Peak.
1. Northeast Glacier. From camp in the valley north of the mountain, above the Rock Garden, climb the northeast glacier, cross the bergschrund and scramble to the top. Ice, Glacier (III,4,s).
Leon Blumer, Ian and Robert Crosthwaite, Don Skuratoff, 1/7/1991.
2. East Ridge. Gain the Niflheim-Un. 2670m ridge from a helicopter camp on the south side of Brynhild Peak (only one level spot, 205045). The helicopter landing site is marginal at the base of the south ridge of Brynhild Peak, and the tent site had to be excavated from an old goat wallow. The terrain south of the west end of Stegosaurus Ridge is steep, and the existence of other sites is questionable. The east ridge is long, with several summits, and has good rock. (II,4).
Steve Horvath, Hamish Mutch, July 28, 1994.
3. West Ridge. Continue the traverse from the east ridge. Climb down the west ridge (Class 4, and up to 5.4), pass over another small summit and continue to Kelly Peak, all on excellent rock. (III,5.4,*).
Steve Horvath, July 28, 1994.