MOUNT TILLEY 2640m 8,661′
Mount Tilley is three km west of Mount Begbie. It appears steep and attractive. The third and highest summit is on the west end.
Approach: The usual approach to Mount Tilley is from the Begbie Trail (see Mount Begbie) and the slopes north of Mount Begbie.
1. East Slopes. The east slopes are an easy rock and snow scramble, going over the two eastern towers. (II,3,s). FRA 1968.
2. Southwest Face, South Ridge. From a helicopter camp at Revelation Lake (local name) below the south side of Mount Tilley, go up a steep talus slope, find a break in a cliff band (easy scramble) and ascend snow (possible ice) of the southwest face. Take to the south ridge to the right near the top. (II,3,s). The rope was not used, but is advised.
FRA Amund Groner, Ann Grube and Gordon White, August 4, 1997.
Variation: Approach from the Begbie Trail, long. Go west under Mt. Begbie and then go down, but one must lose 300m. There were many steep, slimy meadow traverses (after much rainy weather), and some scrambles up wet quartzite slabs. The first ridge reached goes to one of the eastern towers, and then a gully leads up to the south ridge. The bottom of the south ridge is mostly meadows and talus slopes. The upper part is a bit more difficult (Rt. 2), and Sandra McGuinness quotes a few Class 4 moves.
Rene LeBel, Sandra McGuinness, August 30, 2008.
Climb down the upper south ridge and go west and down (Route 2). Traverse east to the bottom of the south ridge. Retracing steps to Revelation Lake, climb up 200m to Tilley Lake, and up again.