ESMERALDA PEAK 2790m 9154′
The Keyhole (pass) is just north of Esmeralda Peak.
FFA Peggy Carter and Ada Levy (New Denver, B. C.) were the first women to climb this mountain, probably in the late 1920s.
1. FA The summit is easily reached from The Keyhole, on snow and rock by climbing up the rock above the Keyhole.
2. South Ridge. This short, easy ridge is used to traverse Esmeralda Peak to Cond Peak. It is easiest to descend the east face to the snow after using the south ridge a short walk.
3. Southwest Ridge. The pinnacled southwest ridge is a good climb with good Class 5.0 rock. Follow the trail to The Keyhole; when by the old mine workings cross across the ridge to the southeast side. Bypass difficulties on the right side. Exposed. (III,5.0).
FRA Gerry Brown, John Carter, Ian Hamilton, early 1960s.
4. South Face. Go up grassy avalanche paths east of the southwest ridge, paralleling the southwest ridge, to the foot of the south face. One easy Class 5 pitch at the bottom puts one on good granite, scrambling, to the top. (II,5.2,s).
FRA Barend Bredenkamp, Steven Horvath, 08/1988.
Direct Access to the Esmeralda-Cond Ridge
Climb the spur which is in line directly with the view from the parking lot at Gibson Lake, Class 3 (not the left skyline). It leads to the ridge between the two peaks, and the base of the spur lies above the highest mineshaft of the Molly Gibson Mine about 600 meters above the lake. Use the Kokanee Lake trail (to Slocan Chief cabin) and branch off when high on the hillside on a moraine.
FRA Rick Askew, John Steed, 1969