MOUNT DOLLY VARDEN   2610m   8665′

Just west of Marten Mountain. The altitude refers to the higher summit of the mountain. The lower western point is surveyed at 2570 meters (8430 feet) and bears the name, climbed in 1892.

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Map: 82K/3 Rosebery

1. FRA by the prospector James Cameron, July 12, 1892, who found the “Archie” mineral claim on the western summit; route unknown. The name “Dolly Varden” was given at approximately the time of the claim. The name “Alturus” was given to a neighbouring claim in 1898.
The lower western summit was climbed also by the Topographical Survey, the date and route are unknown. See Trout Mountain.

2. Northeast Ridge, Southeast Face. The approach is the same as for Marten Mt. A long snow gully leads to the northeast ridge overlooking the snow and ice field on the northwest side of Dolly Varden. Go onto the southeast face when the rock of the ridge becomes rotten and broken. Reach the ridge again on wide ledges, just below the summit.
The party descended the southwest ridge to the tree-studded south ridge and a trail (made by the miners?). (II,3,s). 24/6/1969.

3. South Ridge. See Route 2, descent.